Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
In general yes and the new style motor can be installed into it- with the required circuitry upgrades. The CPA is actually the more difficult processor to repair for me. Although I have fixed a few. Jobo stopped production on the CPA processors four years prior to Omega Satter taking over distribution. I remember the technician from Ann Arbor that came to give some training stating that they tell people the CPA's can not be upgraded. I decided that anything was fair game when I took over technical support, but I was scared sh*tless that I wasn't going to understand the processors and would never be able to repair them well enough to keep people happy.
I have had lots of help first starting when my friend here in Baltimore agreed to train me in repairing the processors. He was my service tech for years and had lots of electronics hands on experience, though he was not an engineer. I am not an electronic engineer. Basically after my buddy John showed me some things I would call him and my friend Dave Smith in LA both guys have helped me understand the processor lots. But Dave is very knowledgable in electronics and tends to make my head swim :) Klaus in Germany has also given me lots of help and the other good people at Jobo Germany have always answered my requests. The real challenge was deciphering the service manuals. Many have german notations and the schematics are combined German and English. So I have learned by doing and somewhat osmosis. The good thing is I have
a pretty fair working knowledge how to tear apart and rebuild the bigger automatic processors mechanically which are very complex electronically, so I've learned to trouble shoot using logic versus an oscilloscope regarding circuit problems. I do wish I could get that skill, but I am doing alright so far:) I also have access to variety of knowledgable electronics folks that I bounce my theories off of, because Omega builds & sells Novatron and we have an in house engineer.
Its a lot to learn twenty years of product history in four or five, but its been fun and quite educational. I also always enjoy talking with photographers and over these several have talked with some interesting Jobo owners.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
vinny
I'm guessing it would depend on the vintage but.......Are the motors in the cpa-2 the same as the cpp-2?
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
Jobo does not recommend using bleach in the plastic tub, maybe because people don't tend mix bleach intelligently? Process clean is the preferred stuff that Omega Satter distributes for cleaning processors it designed to work overnight.
But you could use a soft scrub compound a soft sponge and enough water to lubricate, I use a small soft brush to clean everything it is a little faster. Windex will remove the caked on fixer sulfer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mandoman7
As long as we're on the subject, what method is good for controlling the algae? My water comes through old pipes and I'm forming algea fairly quickly in the tub which is annoying to have to clean very often.
Another yes vote for the video, also.
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
Regarding this post from Greg Blank:
The syringe is for packing grease inside the hole that the white transfer gears ride in on the lift arm. ATLs have two gears, CPE, CPA and CPP2 have one hole.You fill the hole with grease then insert the two part gear and snap lock it together.
Grease eliminates the squeek. You can also apply vaseline using a Q tip instead...
Can you please explain how to get the white transfer gears apart so that you can access the hole for lubricant?
Thanks...
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Photosensualis
Regarding this post from Greg Blank:
The syringe is for packing grease inside the hole that the white transfer gears ride in on the lift arm. ATLs have two gears, CPE, CPA and CPP2 have one hole.You fill the hole with grease then insert the two part gear and snap lock it together.
Grease eliminates the squeek. You can also apply vaseline using a Q tip instead...
Can you please explain how to get the white transfer gears apart so that you can access the hole for lubricant?
Thanks...
Is Explained in this technical doc Jobo supplied. However to be a bit more concise for everyone's benefit:
The transfer gears are two pieces, there is silicon covering the end that has connection parts, usually it is found on the back of the gear. That requires taking the lift off the processor. You take the lift off, by loosening the two black screws and NEVER the lower metal motor screw. A standard screw driver is gentlely inserted behond the lift to wedge the lifts flange away from the motor control housing.
Once the lift is off flip it over and inspect the transfer gear. You dig the silicon out, then use a needle nose pliers to carefully squeeze the connection together. The two half should then separate rather easily.
http://www.gbphotoworks.com/jdocs/WhiteClips.pdf
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
We have a problem with one of the JOBO's at school. A CPA has the bronze bushing that is pressed onto the motor shaft start to slip. It won't power the cog to drive the drums anymore and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it.
Any suggestions? The shaft is NOT a tapered shaft and the bronze bushing is threaded which is what keeps the cog in place.
GRRRRRRRR....
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
Quote:
Originally Posted by
michael slade
We have a problem with one of the JOBO's at school. A CPA has the bronze bushing that is pressed onto the motor shaft start to slip. It won't power the cog to drive the drums anymore and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it.
Any suggestions? The shaft is NOT a tapered shaft and the bronze bushing is threaded which is what keeps the cog in place.
GRRRRRRRR....
Is this the part held on with either the Phillips or Allen screw on the center of the shaft.
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
On the motors with the tapered shaft, the shaft is threaded and accepts the bolt to hold on the cog.
On this motor, the shaft is not tapered and there is a bronze bushing which is pressed onto the end of the square, non-tapped shaft. This bronze bushing IS tapped which is what the cog is held on to using an allen-head bolt. Ironically if the allen-head bolt is put on too tightly the screw can essentially push the bronze bushing off of the shaft when the screw is tightened.
I have a pic of it here somewhere....
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
The allen screw is incorrect for the straight shaft motors. Its too long and was designed for the new style motors. For straight shaft motors you should be using a standard screw with threads 14/64th from the screw head or 5mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
michael slade
On the motors with the tapered shaft, the shaft is threaded and accepts the bolt to hold on the cog.
On this motor, the shaft is not tapered and there is a bronze bushing which is pressed onto the end of the square, non-tapped shaft. This bronze bushing IS tapped which is what the cog is held on to using an allen-head bolt. Ironically if the allen-head bolt is put on too tightly the screw can essentially push the bronze bushing off of the shaft when the screw is tightened.
I have a pic of it here somewhere....
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
So now the problem is the bronze bushing has been spun off of the straight shaft. Do I need to get someone to braze it on? JB Weld didn't hold very long...
Re: Maintaining a Jobo CPP-2 or CPA-2
Those are not supposed to be permanently attached, its a compression bushing. As you tighten the bushing by turning the screw it is supposed to hold. If it does not a new bushing should probably be used. But the problem is if the bushings are available. I can check but it may take some time een if I can get one. I am also not sure as someone that is learning the ins and outs of welding if I could recomend brazening. There are part internal to that motor that could be damaged by heat or electricity. Did you take the shaft completely out? The gearing inside the motor is phenilic material. I am not certain if over heating is a good idea. The windings of the motor are very fine copper so they potentially could be damaged. I guess my main message is take care!
These compression bushing are also part of the reason Jobo upgraded the motors to the cone shaft, when used with Expert drums. The allen screws go inside the shaft and are a solid lock.
