thanks...
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thanks...
I would love to see some more photos, especially of your film mount system for wet mounting. I don't really get the spacer concept. On my v750 wet mount, I just squirt the glass, lay down the film, add mylar. No taping for that. I was thinking I would go with a similar setup for my own scanner, so, I'm wondering how the spacer helps, or, well, whatever!
Thanks!
Andrew
Daniel only uses the spacer to keep the negative lined-up properly. We want to avoid having to do any image rotation in post production, as that leads to a loss of quality.
Exactly. I've found that with care, it's not hard to prevent bubbles being formed. When they are you need to be extra careful to push them out keeping a couple fingers on the mylar to prevent slipping around once the spacer is removed. I'm remaking the spacers to allow for more accurate indexing along both axes, an L shaped spacer. I'll be posting more detail images soon.
Attachment 101442 Attachment 101443 Attachment 101444 Attachment 101445
A simple, inexpensive, portable, bright, uniformly lit, cold-cathode light source for countless projects. I've been using these off and on for a number of years. They work great as a small light-table for viewing negatives up to half-plate size (4.75"x6.5").
HP made a scanner that came with this ScanJet XPA Transparency Adapter. This particular XPA (pictured) was purchased off eBay several weeks ago for $5.00 minus shipping.
To adapted the XPA to work without the scanner . . . You will need a DC power source. I used a 12 volt DC, 4 amp power supply from an old Sony video camera. Cut the connector from the end of the XPA's cable. Attach the power source to the red wire = (+12 VDC) and black wire = (ground). Seal those connections with electrical tape. Twist the orange and brown wires together to make a separate connection and seal with electrical tape. Seal all your connections with electrical tape.
I've been using mine with a 12 Volt DC power source. So far, so good. But, if anyone knows a different voltage requirement for this unit, please let us know.
Measurements: XPA case is 8-3/8" L x 7" W x 1-3/4" H. The screen is approx. 5-1/2" x 6-1/2".
Enjoy!
PS: If you decide to invest in one of these, my recommendation is . . . "The Newer, the Better". The screen can get scratched up if handled roughly.
That an interesting light source. Thanks for posting!
Nice catch.
Attachment 101449 Attachment 101450
The last picture in my previous post doesn't do a good job of depicting the screen brightness. This is probably a better representation. Internally there are fluorescent type tubes around the edges. They require a minute to warm up to reach full brightness.
I'll pick up one of DannL's light sources when I get the chance.
It'll be interesting to see how it's spectrum does with colors.
I really like the ability of our current light source to adjust the RGB composition of the light. I've scanned a few bw negatives developed in a staining developer (Pyrocat). Being able to roughly equalize the capture of the three channels is useful.
Here's another example from this light source. It was shot with an Arca Swiss F Classic and Schneider 58mm lens. I dialed in a nearly neutral film base with the RGB controller and got it closer in Capture One. Besides inverting the black and white points, correcting the black point was the ONLY editing done to this image:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y5qakswy1h...patio%20sm.jpg
Here's a 100% crop from the best focus point in that image with only default sharpening:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dfvmq7tf93...%20%20crop.jpg
The result file as captured with my D800E is 80" long at 300 dpi. using almost exactly 1:1 magnification.
Color me happy.
I deleted the previous post as the images were being resized too small. I'll make a note to leave them in my dropbox.