Thanks Jason. I’m going to keep experimenting with Pyrocat, and different dilutions and agitation schemes, for a while, then Dektol, D-23, or Rodinal might be next.
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Thanks Jason. I’m going to keep experimenting with Pyrocat, and different dilutions and agitation schemes, for a while, then Dektol, D-23, or Rodinal might be next.
Would Fuji IX film through an FIP7000 processor be suitable for images?
If you want continuous tones, probably not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dpatt711
I rushed out today when it looked like there might be some sunshine. If I’d had a bit more time I would have tried for a better composition, and more precise focusing, but this was really just another quick test shot. This is Pyrocat HD 1:1:150 (20:20:2250) in 11x14 tray for 8 minutes @70F. I pre-soaked for 5 minutes with nearly constant agitation. I agitated constantly for the first minute in the developer, plus for 5 seconds every 30 seconds thereafter. The scan was made in a sleeve on Epson 4990. I bumped the exposure slightly in LR, but it’s basically a straight scan. Exposure was 1/10 f45, Symmar 210mm, UV filter only. I shot the second negative with a yellow filter, and will develop that tomorrow, but I think this dilution and agitation are pretty close.
https://i.imgur.com/ujfBUnF.jpg
If that sky is supposed to be very slightly cloudy, then I think it looks great David!
Yep, those are clouds. I’m going to stick to this procedure.
It looks as if you have found your exposure/development combo which works well for you.
Thanks Jim. If I recall correctly you also have been using Pyrocat with x-ray film. I would be interested in your procedures, if you don’t mind sharing them again. This thread is very hard to search.
Best,
Dave
Well done, the image looks great! This certainly seems to be working very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Schaller
Thanks Koraks. Here’s the second negative, shot with a medium yellow filter and a stop added exposure. On this one I used 1:1:200 dilution (12:12:2400), for 10 minutes, with continuous agitation for the first minute, and 5 seconds agitation every 30 seconds thereafter. There is more tone in the partly cloudy skies, so I think using a yellow filter could be useful.
https://i.imgur.com/NxHqvy9.jpg
My procedure is very similar to yours except I use 1.5+1.5+100 in trays and develop totally by inspection. My safelight is 6+feet from the tray, and is turned on after what I have estimated is 75% fo development time. My agitation technique consists of lifting 3 corners in succession each 30 seconds.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Schaller
Pyrocat-HD works nicely with Ektascan and double-sided (green latitude). Been doing it this way since about 2008. Flat bottomed tray. 5 sec gentle agitation every minute. I always expose through a yellow #8, #15, or #11 light green filters.
Thanks Jim! Is that for silver, or alt processes? I may try to get back to Pt/Pd with these negs, but for the moment I’m thinking silver contact prints.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Thanks again,
Dave
Thanks Andrew.
Was there a change in the rules? I can't see pictures. I would really like to see the images being discussed right now.
Development by inspection works for any printing process.Quote:
Originally Posted by David Schaller
Attachment 201553
Here's a shot at 1/8s and f/11 under some lamps. Carestream EB/RA developed for 7m30s in Rodinal.
Like!
Quote:
Originally Posted by senderoaburrido
Is EKTASCAN B/RA gone? Are there any other single sided x-ray emulsions?
ZZ has currently no availability but they say they're trying to source it. So far, the only option is this, but you need to have an appetite to buy 500 sheets:
https://www.cmxmedicalimaging.com/pr...aved-8-x-10cm/
This was the first time I’ve dealt with bellows extension and reciprocity adjustments. I used the 1:1:200 dilution for 8 minutes, with agitation for the first minute and for 5 seconds every 30 seconds. It was still pretty high contrast of course, which I’ve reduced in LR. I bet it would still print on a #2 filter or paper, but I am going to reduce time and agitation on the second negative. [This is cropped from the full negative because there were some personal items on the desk too.]
https://i.imgur.com/dxLd3YU.jpg
SOME Mammogram and Dental X-Ray is single sided
Industry uses SOME X-Ray custom to them
Most of that is smaller than 8X10
IF you want X-Ray, better stock up now
Any kind
Read this, even NDT is going Digi
https://www.carestream.com/en/us/med...yAAEgKYGfD_BwE
This was another experiment, in a couple of senses. It was taken about 5:30 p.m. EDT, so I rated the film at 50. I was also using a Symmar convertible 210/370 at 370 with just the rear element. Is there some focus shift? It was windy, but I didn’t check at the taking aperture of f32. I was in a tricky camera position, so I couldn’t hold a filter in front of the shutter.
I inadvertently placed the shadow on Zone IV, rather than III, and with the extra exposure for reciprocity correction, I was in major N- territory. So I developed in Pyrocat 12/12/2400 for 6.5 minutes, with gentle agitation the first minute, and every 30 seconds.
Quick negative scan:
https://i.imgur.com/mG9PNir.jpg
Attachment 201848
Fuji HR-U in Obsidian Aqua
Re: EB/RA, I can't find any reference to this film on the Carestream site and it is also no longer listed by two European suppliers. The only single sided film I can see by is Agfa HDR-C in 18x24 cm size. I have tried the Agfa double sided and got great results so expect the single sided to be similar. Unfortunately I sold one of my two 18x24cm holders because I was reckoning on EB/RA so would be limited using this. Might buy a pack anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by venchka
Colleagues who love photography on X-ray films.
This small German company has everything related to X-rays and black and white films. The owner of this company is a very kind and respectful man.
I hope it's useful
I have just been given a small selection of 4x5 x-ray film mostly all double sided.
Can this be developed like regular film in an SP-445 or Paterson Tank ?
I ordered 2 boxes of EB/RA yesterday. Short supply maybe, but it is available. Check with your normal supplier.
I don't have a sp-445, but from what I gather, the film touches the holder on one side, or at least comes extremely close to doing so, correct? This spells disaster. I use a jobo tank that holds 6 sheets, There is lots of space between the sheets for fluid to move freely. I think the Paterson would be the better option (mod54?)Quote:
Originally Posted by IanBarber
Thanks for the tip Jim!
ZZ was out last week with none available under backorder, I was sad
Now they have it!
Just bought a case, just in case...
EB/RA is good film, I cut it down often for tiny format
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
Thanks, I do have a MOD54 so I shall use that.Quote:
Originally Posted by blue4130
Wish I could afford a case, but my 300 sheet supply will last a while. Glad you got some.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Can
ZZ just emailed, they are shipping 2 boxes today, the last in their Iowa warehouse.
They wrote they will ship 3 more in May as they are expecting more at that time.
As I shift gears to Alt Prints, it will be very useful film.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Noel
And it’s out of stock again... ugh
Attachment 202150
Attachment 202151
Attachment 202152
Messing around with some macros and an LED flashlight. Wanted to see how the fuji green handled it before using it for portraits. Worked quite well.
Like!
Nice Ikebana-like flower portraits!
Sad Ektascan maybe is nearing the end. I had mixed success with it. I have a little left for when I restart my LF work but I’m probably going to be making my own films at that point.
Very cool my friend ,,Quote:
Originally Posted by blue4130
This is really creativity ,,
God bless you .
Can you tell me what kind of developer you used?
Thanks you, I use HC110 1:70 for 6 minutes at 20'C using constant rotation.Quote:
Originally Posted by mohmadkhatab
This developer is not available in Egypt
I do not know what to do?
I have available
FX10
AGFA neoutol .wa
Kalogen
Why don't you mix your own D-23?Quote:
Originally Posted by mohmadkhatab
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philippe Grunchec
I have a lot of formula,
There is nothing wrong, (D23) is available and very inexpensive, but I do not see it as distinct at all. It is a very basic and ordinary formula. What do you like about that poor formula?
I love the formula (AGFA14) it is very soft and very gentle, and when I flip over violently, I get good contrast with unparalleled smoothness.
- But it is okay, I will listen to your advice, I do not reject expert advice no matter how objectionable,
I will listen to you and implement what you say, there is no problem.
But in reality, I have a very important question ,,
- Has anyone experimented with reversing the negative image to obtain positive transparency from X-ray films?
I hope to get an answer to this important question.
God bless you
Another somewhat trivial question:
- My friend has a wooden (5x7) camera.
There is a radiographer who wants to sell him (63) Sheet (10x12) cm. The question is ,, Can this measurement succeed in working on that camera?
http://www.astrum-ltd.com/ru/rentgenovskie-plenki.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by dpaqu
Haven't tried it I think, but it should work just like with any other film.Quote:
Originally Posted by mohmadkhatab
He'll need a reducing back for his camera and appropriate film holders. With a bit of luck, the film will fit in 4x5" holders and a 4x5" reducing back can be used, but it depends on the exact dimensions of the film. Also, getting hold of a reducing back for the camera may be challenging. It's probably easier to get some larger format film and cut it down to 5x7". But of course that depends on the availability of film where your friend lives.Quote:
- My friend has a wooden (5x7) camera.
There is a radiographer who wants to sell him (63) Sheet (10x12) cm. The question is ,, Can this measurement succeed in working on that camera?
A long time ago I played around with enlarging 35mm negatives onto x-ray film, to make an internegative (positive). Then I would contact print that onto another sheet to make the negative. Intention was larger negatives for contact printing (alt processes).
I was using double-sided film which hopelessly blurred the image after the two intermediaries. I didn't have enough success to bother fine-tuning exposure/development/density tests. And, as a positive medium, the x-ray film's blue base was unappealing.
Perhaps better results would be obtainable with single-sided, but either way I didn't try anything more. But it's cheap, so try it out if you want.
[QUOTE=koraks;1545866]Haven't tried it I think, but it should work just like with any other film.
God bless you, my friend ,,
Thank you very much ,,
But in your opinion, what is the available x-ray film size that fits the (5x7) camera? From your point of view?
And will this camera accept that this 4x5 film stand be installed assuming that we will find it individually one way or another depending on luck or the like?
- Regarding my question about converting the X-ray film to positive transparency, I mean that is done directly.
I do not mean to reprint an image from (35mm) film to an x-ray film in order to have positive transparency.
No, that's not what I meant.
I have been using AGFAscala since the beginning of the X-ray film development.
The file is well known and known to everyone and I think that most professors and experts in this forum know it and they have inevitably gone through that experience before (35mm) or (120mm) films, but I wanted to think about the idea that this process be applied to X-ray films, , why not ?
- The file with attachments, and of course the photographic researcher designed this process on the basis of identification with the original process (AGFAscala)Attachment 202365, but with great regret, he erred in that he designed everything on the basis that it is intended to work on a machine (JOBO) only, and with a capacity (260 ml) Only ml.
Therefore, if you want to prepare one liter, you will fall into the trap of complicated calculations that I failed to calculate, because if you prepare 4 packages, each one is a capacity of (260 ml), and you add them in one container, then the result will become an increase in the concentrations of chemical elements by 300% of the original process design, so I am very confused in this regard.
The problem I see with doing reversal is that the film base is not clear, its blue. So if the goal is to show the positive as the final image, it's not a B&W picture, but a mostly blue picture.
What is the end goal of the positive?
I'm just putting this here for reference purposes...
B/W reversal process for many film sizes, including 5x7.
dr5.us
What is the problem in blue?Quote:
Originally Posted by blue4130
The blue color is a very beautiful color - I don't see any objection to the blue color dominating the scene - why not?
It is basically a mono image - whatever color it dominates.
Of course, the black color with its grayscale is really comfortable for the eye and very logical, but I do not mind if the image is covered in blue and its gradations or sepia - I have no problem.
What is the purpose of obtaining a positive image?
I will answer the question with a question.
- What is the goal of obtaining a negative image?
- I can encapsulate the positive big size film (8x10), put it in a frame and hang it on the wall directly, without the need to print the picture .....................
- Perhaps we can manufacture a camera that can film a huge x-ray film measuring (30x40) cm. We will put it inside a frame and hang it on the wall directly or sell the frame and the film inside - without going into another war with the magnifier and printing.
These are just crazy ideas that complement the main crazy idea, which is the idea of photographing on x-ray films.
My last question: Have you ever tried and tested this strange idea?
See my previous posts regarding positive internegative.
Blue is fine, but I don't think it looks good as a positive "finished" medium for a grey scale image. Highlights are blue, shadows are blackish-blue. You can do what you want, of course.
This isn't a new idea. Search in the thread and you'll find it comes up occasionally, because of course it sounds fun and easy...
By all means, enlarge whatever negative size you want on to as large a sheet of x-ray film as you can. No harm in trying, keep the film manufacturers in business. I may be buying some 14x17 x-ray soon...