beseler 45M modification

I see lots of you have and use Beseler 45M enlargers. I have an old one. I was advised by Beseler that, in order to be able to align the lensboard I should purchase their conversion lower bellows. This is a large (8"X8") bellows withe focusing stuff and a lensboard holder that allows alignment. This looks exactly like the large square lower bellows on the Beseler 45V model.

My problem is this new bellows does not compress enough to allow focusing a 50mm lens without a recessed board. The newer Rodenstock and Schneider lenses are too large in diameter to fit in the Beseler recessed board.

My question is: do some of you have either the 45V model or the latest 45M model with the large bellows, and if so, how are you dealing with this problem? Or did Beseler make some with a bellows that will compress enough? I am in the process of going around and around with Beseler trying to solve this, and before I make a trip to Western Bellows to try to get a new one made I would appreciate input.

The other route would be to find some of the "double" lensboards that Zone VI made that were designed for aligning the lens. I have used those for years and they work fine. Call Calumet and see if they have some of the old stock left. They have kept tons of the old Zone VI stuff.

Put up a question on how do allign the machine.

Omegas allign by rotating the entire head forward and back and left to right to first get the lens parallel to the base. It is far from intuitive how this is done, but it is the official way. Lastly the neg stage is adjusted.

Beslars may have a similar set up.

The old dual lens boards with foam in between and three adjusting screws that zone 6 sold are a good second and you can make one yourself if you have to.

I set up enlargers with tape shims where no adjustments were possible.

Lastly make your own recessed board for the lens you have. Aircraft plywood from a hobby shop is different thickness es and 6x12 in. Buy a razor saw, files, wood glue and black paint.
I built lens cones for Omegas this way. It is nothing more than a box on a board.

" find some of the "double" lensboards that Zone VI made that were designed for aligning the lens."

The lens, negative stage and the baseboard need to be aligned to each other.

This lensboard may align the lens to the baseboard or to the negative stage but not to both. unless all three are properly aligned you have not aligned the enlarger.

I have the version of the Beseler MXT that allows alignment of the lens stage. I assume the lower bellows on it is the same bellows you'd be buying for your M (i.e. I wouldn't think Beseler is making two different lower bellows). Maybe there's something peculiar about attaching that bellows to the M but I have no problem using a 50 mm lens (Componon S) on my MXT.

Kirk mentioned finding the zone vi style aligning lensboards. if you can't find one, you can make one. it's not too hard if you can get your hands on some lensboards and some taps and dies. if you end up going this route and aren't sure what to do, email me and i'll tell you how i did it.

Delta makes an adjustable lens board for Beseler enlargers:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=15669&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

I use a Robotoolz three-axis laser torpedo level ($20 used) a pocket mirror, and a couple of mini binder clips. The alignment takes about a minute.

The alignment between the negative plane and lens plane is the most critical (unless you are reducing rather than enlarging).

Who is "Delta" and what is their web site? I can't make it out "none@none.com"

I have a 45M that I use lenses from 50mm to 210mm for 35mm to 8x10. It has an 8x10 adapter so there is even an extra stage on it. I have modified the enlarger such that the lens has both tilt and swing, as does the regular negative stage. The 8x10 stage is so close to the other neg stage that I just shim it. The baseboard I consider the reference.

The standard 45M lens stage has the ability to swing, but it is not fine tune-able. This I had to modify. A tilt can be added with relative ease, too. The whole head assembly has the ability to tilt, but not swing. I have added a swing, but this could be put in the baseboard by adding shims.

I know that photogs can be pretty weird about alignment, especially if they have the mirrors and a laser alignment tool, but I'm not sure that it has to be THAT critical to get good, sharp prints. I would do a DOF calculation or refer to a Photo Technique article of years past before I worried too much.

I think some are overly critical. I used a $3.00 level taped to a hardwood stick to line up an Omega D6. It need not be accurate, simply repeatable in measure.

Level the base, level the lens to the base using the swings provided but well hidden, then level the neg stage. Always use the level oriented the same end to the right or rear in case it is not accurate. Level to center the bubble, not just within the lines.

I checked with a Peak 10x grain magnifier in each corner and get sharp grain from 35mm at 11x14 with the lens wide open.

There is no point in being more obsesive than that.