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I can't find development times for Arista EDU Ultra 100 (shot at 100!) and HC-110 (dilution B). The Digital Truth website lists this combination with the exception that the film is shot at ASA 50. The Arista documentation doesn't even list times for this combination. Can you guys please help? Thanks so much in advance.
Try looking at foma 100 which is the real origin of the film.
Ha! I just did and there's no info for dilution B or sheet film. Seems like the powers-that-be don't like my combo film/developer!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicolasllasera
By the way HC110 "B" is a terrible developer dilution for Foma or Arista. Rodinal (non solvent developer) or XTOL at 1:3 would be the better choice, even though XTOL is a solvent developer, the 1:3 dilution would give outstanding results. If you only have HC110, use a higher dilution than "B" like dilution "F" or "H"....Fomapan 100 HC-110 "H" 9 minutes at 20C for sheet film Notice i used Fomapan which is what Arista film is.... Call Freestyle if in doubt and ask....they have a great technical staff just for questions like yours. Also consider another developer like diluted D76 or diluted XTOL or think about Rodinal.
I emailed them about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by photobymike
Why is dulition B so terrible for Arista?
Well the higher dilution produces more perceived sharpness... It is the way the developer works on the silver .... higher concentrations like "B" make less grain but effect the sharpness. If you are using sheet film you dont care much about the grain as you would the sharpness of your image. I use sheet foma 100 all the time with Pryo HD The developing times are not listed ...but who cares... i get shadow detail like you would believe ...... 2+2+100 dilution for 10 minutes at 20c
one stop difference on Foma (Arista) is nothing.. this film is so forgiving that you might like the results
Then again 4.5 minutes developing time is to fast for developer time.... with such a short time there is a large "fudge factor" and thats at 68F if you have to go with warmer developer it be as little as 3 minutes and thats just to short.
Couple of tips 1- use distilled water to mix all of your chemicals 2- pre rinse your film for 5 minutes before the developer. 3 - use very diluted stop bath. some photographers use only water. 4- use an acid fixer with a hardener Kodak Rapid Fixer is my favorite. Fomapan film is "old school" silver film and has a soft emulsion after processing. I found this picture that will give you strong points as well as weak properties of Kodak developers
Attachment 97343
I got an answer from Freestyle:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freestyle Photo