one shot was with xray film the other shot with delta 100

[ImSoNegative]

i did two shots today one with green senstive xray film, the other with ilford delta 100, both were exposed at 1/15 sec 14in. brass petzval, both at iso 100, the reason i was doing this was because is there really that much of a difference to justify me paying 90 dollars for 25 sheets compared to 35.00 for 100 sheets, tell me which was done with xray and which was done with regular film and why you think so. excuse all the damn dust. :rolleyes:

[jon.oman]

I'm thinking that the second one is the x-ray film. Slightly less contrast...

[Andrew O'Neill]

I'll say the first one is xray... is there a prize for guessing? Very difficult to see, but there are some subtle differences. In a case like this it seems like it doesn't matter which film. It would though, if you wanted a dark sky. It's nice having xray, conventional, and IR film with me when I'm shooting.

[MMELVIS]

First picture is xray

[C. D. Keth]

First picture is xray

I think so too.

[Ari]

First!
As for difference between X-ray and regular film, it might be more pronounced with other subject matter, like portraits.
Still, an example like this does give one pause.

[ImSoNegative]

And the answer is......................................the first one is xray film : ) for what im going to be using my 8x10 for i think xray film will be fine for it, of course i wouldnt want to use xray for everything, tried that one already didnt work out to well, i know regular film would have been better, but for the next few projects i will be working on, the xray film will be fine. thanks for everyone's input

[Roboflick]

How did you process the x ray film? Thanks!
Nik

[ShawnHoke]

Yeah, first is x-ray film. Interesting that both are acceptable to my eyes. I think if I can control the scratches I'm going to use x-ray for portraits, still life, and such. Then use normal film when I need maximimum sharpness.

How are you developing your x-ray film to avoid scratches?

I did the same thing over the weekend. Same shot with Tri-X 320 and green sensitive x-ray film. I thought that there would be a big difference in a high contrast scene.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8195/8416422807_8b740be8b5_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8416422807/)
Shake Shack, NYC, 8x10 Kodak Tri-X 320 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8416422807/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Both tray developed, but the Tri-X was developed inHC110 and x-ray in Rodinal 1:100. Not that big of a inference really.

[ImSoNegative]

both of mine were souped in d76. i process mine in trays as well, I wear gloves when loading the film in the holders to avoid fingerprints and scratches, before i process the film in the trays, i put 8x10 sheets of glass in the bottoms of each tray, after processing just wash and hang to dry, dont squeegie. since i have been doing these things my negs have been virtually scratch free. btw very nice shots shawn

[ImSoNegative]

How did you process the x ray film? Thanks!
Nik

i do it exactly they way i do conventional sheet film. the cool thing about xray film is that you can develope by inspection using a safelight, if i do d76 1:1 i find that my neg is ready in about 7 or 8 minutes, stop bath for about 30 sec then fixer for about 3 minutes, it really helps if you have glass in the bottom of your trays unless you have smooth bottom trays which i dont. i agitate for the first 30 sec, then agitate for 10 sec every half minute after that. after about 5 minutes i will pull the neg out and check it to see whats going on (make sure i have something) usually after about 7 or 8 min like i said its usually ready. so far this process has worked well for me.

[ImSoNegative]

Yeah, first is x-ray film. Interesting that both are acceptable to my eyes. I think if I can control the scratches I'm going to use x-ray for portraits, still life, and such. Then use normal film when I need maximimum sharpness.

How are you developing your x-ray film to avoid scratches?

I did the same thing over the weekend. Same shot with Tri-X 320 and green sensitive x-ray film. I thought that there would be a big difference in a high contrast scene.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8195/8416422807_8b740be8b5_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8416422807/)
Shake Shack, NYC, 8x10 Kodak Tri-X 320 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8416422807/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8427295176_421a428075_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/)
Shake Shack at Night, 8x10 Fuji HR-T X-Ray Film (http://www.flickr.com/photos/shawnhoke/8427295176/) by Shawn Hoke (http://www.flickr.com/people/shawnhoke/), on Flickr

Both tray developed, but the Tri-X was developed inHC110 and x-ray in Rodinal 1:100. Not that big of a inference really.

I keep going back to those, very nice images, what do you expose your xray film at?

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Nice to see the comparison. I agree that x-ray film is not for everything. I think it is great for soft focus work and portraits as well. I'll try to find some examples and post them.

[ShawnHoke]

I keep going back to those, very nice images, what do you expose your xray film at?

I metered this shot at 200 ISO (because I forgot to change the ISO from the Tri-X, doh!), but had exposed some earlier shots at 80 per advice found on these forums. The meter called for 30 seconds, but I exposed for 1 minute.

I'm halfway there with your excellent glass in tray bottom advice. I use a glass insert in my Dev tray, but didn't have one for my ridged fix tray. I think that's where my scratches one from. I've also been flipping my negative over every thirty seconds as agitation, which I think increases the scratch potential. Do you flip the negative or just rock the tray every 30 secs?

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Searching the hard drive I came up with these of my son's. Shot on x-ray film and printed in carbon transfer. Also an interior shot of a staircase shot on x-ray film.

[ImSoNegative]

just rock back and forth, i pick them up like i said to inspect against the safelight, i might do that 2 times before they are finished, but i do wear gloves the whole time i handle the film that seems to help too, my first xray film i processed looked like a cat had gotten hold of it lol, but thanks to several people that told me different things to try, i just put all there advice together and now no scratches. last bit of advice i had gotten was dont squeegie the neg. just let it drip dry. so far so good.

[ImSoNegative]

Jim those carbon transfers you have are awsome, ive still yet to try it, i do have all the things i need though, you will be hearing from me when i start this process trust me lol

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim those carbon transfers you have are awsome, ive still yet to try it, i do have all the things i need though, you will be hearing from me when i start this process trust me lol

no problem

[ShawnHoke]

just rock back and forth, i pick them up like i said to inspect against the safelight, i might do that 2 times before they are finished, but i do wear gloves the whole time i handle the film that seems to help too, my first xray film i processed looked like a cat had gotten hold of it lol...

Good to know, that should cut down on my scratches big time. Thanks for the tip!

And Jim, your portraits are fantastic, just how I hoped the x-ray film would behave for that subject matter.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Good to know, that should cut down on my scratches big time. Thanks for the tip!

And Jim, your portraits are fantastic, just how I hoped the x-ray film would behave for that subject matter.

Thanks. They are all shot on 8x10 green and I have always developed in tanks. No scratches ever!. For my 11x14 and 14x17 I use a flat bottom tray for the developer only. The other trays are regular ones. The great thing is you watch it happen! Once you mess up a few by over development you will know what to look for in the dark.

Here is a high contrast portrait of my youngest son shot on blue sensitive. Again this is the carbon print. Shot with my 14" Darlot stopped down a bit from F-4.

[Andrew O'Neill]

How are you developing your x-ray film to avoid scratches?

Flat-bottomed trays. Pyrocat-hd. Gentle agitation.