Entry into 8x10 format

[David Aimone]

Hi,

I have a Chamonix 045n-2 and a Sinar P camera, both 4x5. What is the least expensive option to get into 8x10 film? What camera or what addition to the cameras I have?

Thanks!

David

[AnselAdamsX]

I have a Sinar P2 8x10 rear standard and normal bellows that I may part with. I have 4-5 holders and film as well. Although It will be cheaper if you look for an old wooden 8x10.

[neil poulsen]

How about a Kodak D2? These can be found for just a few hundred dollars. They're capable of reasonable (but not extravagant) amounts of all movements except shift.

[Pawlowski6132]

If u can't afford to, don't go there.

[David Aimone]

I'd be interested in hearing more about the Sinar...though that beast is heavy enough as a 4x5...

[cosmicexplosion]

Just get the 8x10 conversion for your sinar

And yes it's like cocaine.

Expensive

[Peter De Smidt]

The Sinar has a special 8x10 rear standard which has more range of movements than the standard P rear carrier when using the 8x10 conversion kit, and so you'll want to see if the movement range with the standard carrier covers your needs. The Sinar P is an outstanding studio and near-the-car camera system.

[MIke Sherck]

It has been my general experience that older 8x10 monorails sell for very little at auction; often for less than an older wooden folder. Of course, the market at any time can be unique so watch for inexpensive buys on both older wooden cameras such as the Kodak 2D or its contemporaries, or older monorail cameras such as the B&J 8x10 Grover. If you're patient you ought to be able to find something for $200-300 by spring. I agree with a previous poster's comments on wooden 8x10 film holders; in my experience (and I have about 30 of them,) they're very good buys at half the cost or less of more modern 8x10 Fidelity or Lisco plastic holders, lighter, and work just as well. The real expense with 8x10 is consumables: just remember that you'll shoot less film as a matter of course.

Mike

[Peter De Smidt]

... The real expense with 8x10 is consumables...
Mike

And that's the important question. It doesn't matter how good a camera system is in theory if you can't afford to photograph with it. Hopefully David can!

[Bernice Loui]

Sinar 8x10 conversion may make the most sense in many ways. These appear for sale used often enough. If not a conversion set, consider a Sinar 8x10 F. Staying within the Sinar system makes sense if this is already in the photo tool kit.

Beyond converting the 4x5 to 8x10, most 4x5 optics do not cover 8x10. This adds more cost beyond the camera.

Then comes 8x10 film holders, film and post process cost. Adding up all these cost grows pretty fast. Figure 8x10 cost maybe 4x more than 4x5, but the wow factor.


Bernice

[Brian C. Miller]

(skeeeyoooose me)

8x10 film may cost 4x than 4x5, but you need just one lens that covers 8x10, and that lens will also work wonders for 4x5, too. The lenses that cover 8x10 aren't much more expensive than 4x5 lenses. Take a look at what KEH and MPEX are selling. KEH has a number that are $400 to $600.

Just use one, maybe two lenses (a convertible?) and contact print. If the price of film is too high for you, remember that a number of people here are using x-ray film, and that stuff is soooooo cheap!

-- Brian "doing it on the cheap a little at a time over years" Miller

[Drew Bedo]

How about a Kodak D2? These can be found for just a few hundred dollars. They're capable of reasonable (but not extravagant) amounts of all movements except shift.

My Kodak 2-D has no movement but rise-fall on the front standard. The rear standard has swing and tilt, but not rise-fall and shift.

[Peter De Smidt]

Kodak 2-D front tilt procedure where there are vertical lines that you don't want to converge:
1) Level camera.
2) Tilt camera down to get the front standard tilt that you need.
3) Re-plumb the back.
4) Use front rise to get required composition back.

[David Aimone]

I can afford to get into 8x10 if I want to. I just want to go entry level until I see how much I would shoot 8x10 over 4x5. I have at least one lens that will cover 8x10 and pretty much everything else.

Anyone sees a conversion kit let me know.

[ShawnHoke]

Kodak 2-D front tilt procedure where there are vertical lines that you don't want to converge:
1) Level camera.
2) Tilt camera down to get the front standard tilt that you need.
3) Re-plumb the back.
4) Use front rise to get required composition back.

Brilliant! And thank you. I have an Eastman 2D and always bristled at the limited front movements.

[John Kasaian]

If you've got a 240 G Caron you already have a fine 8x10 lens. Film holder are costly though. You'll need a tripod to hold the bigger camera.

[Andrew Plume]

it has to be a 2D, a sturdy beast, not hot on the movements but it'll give you something to cut your teeth on

good luck & regards

andrew

[John Kasaian]

If you've got the $$ get a beater 'dorff V8. Really.

[Alan Gales]

There is a nice looking Burke and James on Ebay right now. They usually go cheaper than a 2D. From what I have read they are not quite as sturdy as a 2D. I have not used either camera so I have no practical experience. The Burke and James should make a nice starter 8x10.


When I bought my Wehman 8x10 I was using a Tachihara 4x5 field camera and a 4x5 Sinar P so I was kind of in the same predicament as you. None of the cheaper cameras really interested me. The Sinar kits would not work for me because they are too heavy for my bad back. I use my Sinar P for portraiture and it mostly stays in the house.

I wanted a new Wehman but I didn't want to spend $2,200. I was trying to get a deal on a Deardorff when a used Wehman with some extras came up for sale for $1,500.00. It was still more than I wanted to spend but I decided to sell some of my camera gear and step up to the plate. It turned out to be the right decision for me.

Today I could sell my Wehman easily for what I paid for it. If I had bought a used Deardorff at a fair price, I could do the same. If you are buying used then you might want to just skip a starter camera and buy what you want since you can probably get most if not all your money back if you decide to sell. Of course if you buy new and later sell you will suffer depreciation.