photobymike
26-Dec-2012, 18:02
I have been using Pyrocat HD Glycol for over a year and here are some my observations.
1. Use pipettes to measure. This stuff is so concentrated that being off a small amount effects your out come.
2. I presoak for 5 minutes at development temperature. I change out the water 2 or 3 times for the presoak. It is needed to wash away the halation barrier. This has always been important... use distilled water... the PH is slightly acid which is ok... tap water who knows what it is.....
3. Use rubber gloves when handling this substance. If you use it a lot, it can accumulate in your system and be toxic.
4. Use distilled water for mixing. I use distilled water for all of my photo chemicals anyway.
5. The negatives scan really well with my scanner V750 epson. I seem to have a longer dynamic range by at least one stop.
6. I use a Beseler roller for development... but it seems to like stand alone tank with moderate agitation...twirl the reels in my paterson tanks.....4x5 always are rolled....
7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer.. i use alkli fixer especially for T-grain films.. for an extra 3 minutes.
8. When you get ready to mix your developer. Roll your bottles of concentrate before using... there seems to be some separation and precipitate on the cap after sitting for a couple of days. Do not shake but make sure concentrate is mixed.
9. Because of the tanning (hardening effect) of the developer it seems the emulsion needs more washing than normal film.... i use very strong hypo clear (Orbit) for 2 minutes each in 2 baths with vigorous agitation.
10. I take the film off the reels and soak for 30 secs in Photo-Flo. Most important; I use distilled water to mix Photo-Flo. If you use regular water or tap water you will see a sledge or slim on your finished negs... The i use a very clean sponge to wipe away the excess Photo-Flo.
I do all of this and what i end up with is beautiful chocolate colored negatives that scan really well.
Any thing to add to these observations, or maybe some questions.
Regards michael
1. Use pipettes to measure. This stuff is so concentrated that being off a small amount effects your out come.
2. I presoak for 5 minutes at development temperature. I change out the water 2 or 3 times for the presoak. It is needed to wash away the halation barrier. This has always been important... use distilled water... the PH is slightly acid which is ok... tap water who knows what it is.....
3. Use rubber gloves when handling this substance. If you use it a lot, it can accumulate in your system and be toxic.
4. Use distilled water for mixing. I use distilled water for all of my photo chemicals anyway.
5. The negatives scan really well with my scanner V750 epson. I seem to have a longer dynamic range by at least one stop.
6. I use a Beseler roller for development... but it seems to like stand alone tank with moderate agitation...twirl the reels in my paterson tanks.....4x5 always are rolled....
7. Dilute your Stop Bath... to strong and you get pin holes. Use a stop bath to get the film ready for the acid in your fixer.. i use alkli fixer especially for T-grain films.. for an extra 3 minutes.
8. When you get ready to mix your developer. Roll your bottles of concentrate before using... there seems to be some separation and precipitate on the cap after sitting for a couple of days. Do not shake but make sure concentrate is mixed.
9. Because of the tanning (hardening effect) of the developer it seems the emulsion needs more washing than normal film.... i use very strong hypo clear (Orbit) for 2 minutes each in 2 baths with vigorous agitation.
10. I take the film off the reels and soak for 30 secs in Photo-Flo. Most important; I use distilled water to mix Photo-Flo. If you use regular water or tap water you will see a sledge or slim on your finished negs... The i use a very clean sponge to wipe away the excess Photo-Flo.
I do all of this and what i end up with is beautiful chocolate colored negatives that scan really well.
Any thing to add to these observations, or maybe some questions.
Regards michael