TRI-X N-3 Contraction HC-110

[Brian Grogan]

Can anyone suggest a starting point for testing N-3 contractions for TRI-X with HC-110?
I am generally using it 1:15 from stock for other normal, plus, minus development in slosher trays.
However simply shortening development time from N-2 will be too short a development time.
Recommendations appreciated!

[Ari]

You could start with another dilution, say, dilution H (1:63 from stock) and use the same time as you use for N-2 development.

[Alan Curtis]

I have successfully used a method described by Bruce Barnbaum for N-3 development. It is a two solution process, first use HC-110 stock solution diluted 1:10 for 1.5 min with 45sec of agitation followed by 45sec unagitated. Then into the second solution which is stock solution diluted 2:90 with water. Agitate for 30sec followed by 1min unagitated, then agitate for 15sec every min until 10 total minutes have elapsed, the 1.5 min in the first solution is part of the total time. You can only do one or two sheets of film with this very diluted (he calls in compensation) developer. The idea is that the first solution develops zones 1 and 2 and the second dilution controls the highlights. Good luck.

[Chuck P.]

any way for you to post a picture you have made with Barbaum's hc-110 2-solutions process?

[Brian Grogan]

I have successfully used a method described by Bruce Barnbaum for N-3 development. It is a two solution process, first use HC-110 stock solution diluted 1:10 for 1.5 min with 45sec of agitation followed by 45sec unagitated. Then into the second solution which is stock solution diluted 2:90 with water. Agitate for 30sec followed by 1min unagitated, then agitate for 15sec every min until 10 total minutes have elapsed, the 1.5 min in the first solution is part of the total time. You can only do one or two sheets of film with this very diluted (he calls in compensation) developer. The idea is that the first solution develops zones 1 and 2 and the second dilution controls the highlights. Good luck.


Alan - thanks for this. Interesting approach. Am I correct in assuming you are using a pre-soak water bath?

[Brian Grogan]

Ari - thanks! Was looking for another dilution ratio and will do some test from this. Appreciate your help!

[David R Munson]

I'd also like to suggest dilution G, which is 1+31 from stock solution. I use it as my default with HC-110 now and it gives me the longer development times I needed, as well as some compensating effects if used semi-stand.

[Steve Sherman]

Semi-Stand or Reduced Agitation forms of development will offer much better results. FOr years I used the Barnbaum method and would always designed my negs to be even less contrasty than normal as his process produces effects in the neg which can only be overcome by using a hard contrast paper. That approach seems almost self defeating but it works.

Reduced agitation is far superior to the Branbuam method for many reasons however there seems to be a fair amount of people who discount the possibilities that I have grown weary of defending the process.

If you have interest in Reduced Agitation forms of Development send me a PM and I will enlighten you much more.

Cheers

[John Olsen]

I have successfully used a method described by Bruce Barnbaum for N-3 development. It is a two solution process, first use HC-110 stock solution diluted 1:10 for 1.5 min with 45sec of agitation followed by 45sec unagitated. Then into the second solution which is stock solution diluted 2:90 with water. Agitate for 30sec followed by 1min unagitated, then agitate for 15sec every min until 10 total minutes have elapsed, the 1.5 min in the first solution is part of the total time. You can only do one or two sheets of film with this very diluted (he calls in compensation) developer. The idea is that the first solution develops zones 1 and 2 and the second dilution controls the highlights. Good luck.
Alan, I just tried this and it looks good. I'd like some more information to fine tune my understanding. Do you increase your base exposure by a 1/2 stop or so? Do you use a prewet?

[Doremus Scudder]

It's been a while since I used HC-110 for contractions, but when I was, I successfully used water-bath development as follows:

HC-110 1+63. Presoak the film for 3 minutes minimum. 20 seconds in the developer with constant agitation (a quick 5 sec. drain included in the dev. time) then into a bath of plain water (make sure it's not too hard). immerse the film gently into the water and let it sit without agitation for a minimum of two minutes. That makes one cycle.

Four complete cycles was my N-3 for 320Tri-X. After the fourth water bath transfer the neg to the stop and continue as usual.

More info: my N-2 was similar, but with 30 seconds in the developer instead of 20; also four cycles.

Best,

Doremus

[Alan Curtis]

John
I usually don't increase the exposure. Just as Doremus does I presoak the film although I only presoak mine for about 1 minute. I'll look for a couple of examples of my results, however my scanner is only slightly better than a photo copier. So the result might not be obvious.

[Jim Noel]

HC110 - one ounce in a gallon of water, in a 16x20 tray for 25 minutes. Up to 24 sheets of 4x5 at a time.

[John Olsen]

It's been a while since I used HC-110 for contractions, but when I was, I successfully used water-bath development as follows:

HC-110 1+63. Presoak the film for 3 minutes minimum. 20 seconds in the developer with constant agitation (a quick 5 sec. drain included in the dev. time) then into a bath of plain water (make sure it's not too hard). immerse the film gently into the water and let it sit without agitation for a minimum of two minutes. That makes one cycle.

Four complete cycles was my N-3 for 320Tri-X. After the fourth water bath transfer the neg to the stop and continue as usual.

More info: my N-2 was similar, but with 30 seconds in the developer instead of 20; also four cycles.

Best,

Doremus

Was that 1:63 from the stock or the thick syrup in the Kodak bottle? Thanks

[Doremus Scudder]

Was that 1:63 from the stock or the thick syrup in the Kodak bottle? Thanks

Yes, 1+63 from the (North American) syrup. Don't forget to give extra exposure to support the shadows. I give an extra stop.

Best,

Doremus

[John Olsen]

John
I usually don't increase the exposure. Just as Doremus does I presoak the film although I only presoak mine for about 1 minute. I'll look for a couple of examples of my results, however my scanner is only slightly better than a photo copier. So the result might not be obvious.

Here's a contact comparison of my first result. Left is N development and right is Alan's description of the Barnbaum N-3 process, except no prewet. I did the prewet on a different pairing and got about the same shifts. The deepest shadows need a little more exposure, but I tend to rate TriX at higher speed than most other shooters. In other words, this is a self-inflicted problem. Blown out highlights on the boat's superstructure are recovered nicely. I hope to do some prints of this in a couple of days. John
91345

[Alan Curtis]

John here is a photo where I used the compensating development technique. I rate TriX at 160 and generally place the shadows in Zone IV. In the photo the highlights were about Zone XI. It really helped control the white door frame.
91394

[John Olsen]

John here is a photo where I used the compensating development technique. I rate TriX at 160 and generally place the shadows in Zone IV. In the photo the highlights were about Zone XI. It really helped control the white door frame.
91394
Alan, This is very helpful guidance. Thanks, I'm copying it to my field notes and hope to use it soon. John