Developer times for ilford FP4 4x5 film

[Nik2494]

Just wondering if anyone could give me advice on developing 4x5 film? developer stop and fix times etc..
Thanks a lot :)

[Tony Evans]

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20114271219521241.pdf

[vinny]

massive development chart

[ki6mf]

There are many theories on development. I personally believe that you should use a diluted developer- I use D76 deleted 1 part water with 2 parts water. I use HP5 at ISO 300 and normal development time is 14 minutes. With normal minus development times of 12, 10, 8 minutes for Normal - 1, Normal - 2, Normal - 3, per the zone system. What ever developer you should do film speed tests to determine ISO and not change mid way through your testing. Google for how to do he zone system to find out how to do these types of tests.

[Pawlowski6132]

What a weird question.

[adelorenzo]

I am getting good results with HC-110 following Jason Brunner's HC-110 recipe (http://www.jasonbrunner.com/hc110.html). Diluted 1:49 for 11 minutes in trays and I am doing about 9.5 minutes in my jobo tank. Stop and fix as normal.

[Nik2494]

thanks for the replies, apart from Pawlowski6132 why is it a weird question? i'm new to large format photography, (I'm sure at some point you were as well) and was simply inquiring if anyone had any tips on development times to get the best results possible. Apologies if to you that seemed a "weird" question.

[ImSoNegative]

massive dev. chart is an excellent source, www.digitaltruth.com, if you ever need to know the reciprocity characteristics of this film there is a really cool formula, not sure who came up with it i cant remember but it is dead on accurate. pm me if you want it, i would post it but my notebook is in my truck. I shoot fp4 often i develope in trays i stop for 30 sec and fix for usually around 5 min, fix is diluted 1:4 good luck

[gliderbee]

I am getting good results with HC-110 following Jason Brunner's HC-110 recipe (http://www.jasonbrunner.com/hc110.html). Diluted 1:49 for 11 minutes in trays and I am doing about 9.5 minutes in my jobo tank. Stop and fix as normal.

He has a "note to the civilized" :-) on that page. What is the difference with the european version (assuming we are the civilized, of course :-P).

Thanks,
Stefan.

[hmf]

thanks for the replies, apart from Pawlowski6132 why is it a weird question? i'm new to large format photography, (I'm sure at some point you were as well) and was simply inquiring if anyone had any tips on development times to get the best results possible. Apologies if to you that seemed a "weird" question.

I think Pawlowski6132 could have stated his objection a little more elegently and explicitly. Your question is not weird, simply complicated. Development times are dependent on the intended use of the negatives (scanned vs enlarged gelatin silver vs pt/pd vs carbon; you get the idea), method of development (dip and dunk vs tray shuffling vs rotary) and water quality, to name a few. So, ultimately, you will have to test your own methods for your own use. There are plenty of sources that will help you get started in this process.

That said, I remember being in a place where I just wanted some kind of starting place, so here is my method for normal FP4+ negatives intended for enlargement onto variable contrast gelatin silver using a diffusion head: open trays with constant shuffling (each negative lifted from the bottom of the stack and placed on top once in each 30 second interval), Xtol 1+3 @ 75 degrees, 7 1/2 minutes, diluted acid stop bath, Sprint hardening fix for 5 minutes, Permawash for 2 minutes, wash for 20 minutes.

Good luck in your journey.

[adelorenzo]

He has a "note to the civilized" :-) on that page. What is the difference with the european version (assuming we are the civilized, of course :-P).

I believe that HC-110 is sold in a more diluted form over in Europe? Over here it comes as a very thick, concentrated syrup. I keep mine in small medicine bottles and draw out 10ml at a time with a syringe.

[Pawlowski6132]

It's just such a BROAD question.

[gliderbee]

I believe that HC-110 is sold in a more diluted form over in Europe? Over here it comes as a very thick, concentrated syrup. I keep mine in small medicine bottles and draw out 10ml at a time with a syringe.

I don't know if it's more diluted or not, but here too, it's a rather thick syrup.

Stefan

[neil poulsen]

You might just as well go with the manufacturers recommended development time.

Development times are decided upon to achieve a desired sensitometric result based on the needs of the individual photographer. So, it wouldn't make sense to recommend a development time, unless you're trying to achieve the same result.

Another question you could ask is, what's a good ASA at which to shoot Plus X. I would say to shoot it at about half to two-thirds (closer to a half) of the recommended manufacturer's ASA.

[BradS]

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20114271219521241.pdf

indeed, why not at least read the manufacturer's data sheet and see where their recommendations take you? Tony already supplied the link to the PDF (in post #2 and repeated above).