Use of Jobo Expert Drums, filling & emptying

[Ed Bray]

I received my first Jobo Expert Drum on Friday, a 3010 which can do up to 10x 4x5 sheets or (off use by some) 5x 5x7. As I am planning on using Pyrocat HD at 1.2:1:100 which states that a minimum of 75ml is needed per 4x5 sheet (or equivelent). This would give me a total of 750ml if using a full drum of 5x7 or 4x5.

Now my concern is how best do I get such a large volume into the drum to try to maintain even development? As the drum does not appear to me to be very quick filling. If I fill the drum in an upright position, surely the part of the negatives closest to the bottom of the tank will start to develop sooner than the parts nearer to the top of the tank as the developer will pool in the chambers by gravity during the filling operation.

Should I try to make some sort of tube (which I can locate one end into the filling hole) with funnel attached to the other and fitted to a stand to which I can pour the developer into whilst the drum is rotating?

Or is there another method that you use?

[TXFZ1]

Michael Gordon has an video of developing with the expert drum and one of the pyros. I just tilt my drum as this allows the fluid into the drum quicker. I have seen a J-type tube that allows feeding the fluid while the drum is rotating. The max amount from the Jobo website is 1000 ml and min is 210ml

http://michaelegordon.wordpress.com/2009/11/05/how-to-video-daylight-sheet-film-4x5-development-2/

David

[JBelthoff]

Go to you local auto parts store and buy on of these: http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/89-554-oil-funnels/transmission-funnel-612664.aspx

Then you can fill the 3010 drum while it is on the roller base in a horizontal position.

[Ed Bray]

Thanks gents, the video was good.

[Ari]

Michael Gordon has an video of developing with the expert drum and one of the pyros. I just tilt my drum as this allows the fluid into the drum quicker. I have seen a J-type tube that allows feeding the fluid while the drum is rotating. The max amount from the Jobo website is 1000 ml and min is 210ml

http://michaelegordon.wordpress.com/2009/11/05/how-to-video-daylight-sheet-film-4x5-development-2/

David

Great solution, but you can likely make your own for about $3.

[jeroldharter]

I assume you are not using a CPP/CPA processor and are using a motorized roller base. That is what I do as well. I just remove the drum from the roller, dump out the pre-wash, then add the developer with the drum tilted ~30 degrees, then put the drum back on the rollers. I have not had any issues with uneven development doing this.

[Noah B]

Tilting the drum is the quickest way to get chemistry in, I use a manual roller base and fill my chemistry like that and my negatives turn out great.

[Erik Larsen]

Hi Ed, If you are using a roller base you can make a simple frame to hold a funnel and pour the chemicals in while it is spinning. It works pretty well for my purposes. Here's a pic of what I use.
regards
erik

[Jon Shiu]

I like a funnel with a large cup with handle to hold the solution and has a long flexible hose as well as a twist valve that allows you to start filling when you want. Got at auto parts store for cheap.

Jon

[jeroldharter]

Hi Ed, If you are using a roller base you can make a simple frame to hold a funnel and pour the chemicals in while it is spinning. It works pretty well for my purposes. Here's a pic of what I use.
regards
erik

I've thought about making something like that, but doesn't the hose cause more problems than it solves? For example, you have to remove the hose after pouring in the chems. Then you have to rinse it or it is dripping chems or flushing them back in with the next pour. Not a huge deal but just one more thing.

[Erik Larsen]

I've thought about making something like that, but doesn't the hose cause more problems than it solves? For example, you have to remove the hose after pouring in the chems. Then you have to rinse it or it is dripping chems or flushing them back in with the next pour. Not a huge deal but just one more thing.

I use a water stop which rinses the hose before the fixer and the water I run through it while washing the film washes out the fixer from the hose. It's no different than using my cpe2 as far as I can tell. I haven't noticed any problems after 100's of sheets of 8x10 yet.
Regards erik

[Jim Cole]

Another vote for a funnel, flexible tube and filling while the drum is spinning. Simple and easy. I start my timer 10 seconds after I start filling (usually enough to get most of the fluid in), and start dumping 10 seconds before the timer goes off. That's how I did all my film tests, so my results are always consistent. Make sure you use a minimum of 500 ml of liquid or you will have issues. The stated minimum on the drum is too low.

[LF_rookie_to_be]

Ed, you can go mad and glue a cup on the underneath of an Expert lid. I did so and all sheets developed so far came out fine - including several runs of critical (read: someone else's) Velvia 50. A spare lid can be found for a reasonable amount (http://www.lumiere-shop.de/index.php?page=product&info=3158 or the auction site). The cup on the first, finished, lid holds 420 ml and the prepared cup for the second one, to be used on a 3004 drum, holds 750 ml. Tip: use very strong marine-grade epoxy and polyurethane. You have to tape the edges to prevent leakage, and the second one will require extending the rim with plastic rings seen in the images. This way I can simply roll the drum on a table and fill it in vertical position. Precise digital meter/timer with audible signals and titanium aquarium heaters solve time & temperature issues. For me, this was much, much cheaper than obtaining, transporting and babying a CPA or CPP. Madder, too.

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[Ari]

One other thing, if you do a pre-soak, just for one minute, then your developer will coat the film more gently and evenly.
I do two one-minute pre-soaks.

I don't use the funnel method outlined above, just pour in and pour out, and haven't had any problems.