Refurbishing a Luc ? shutter

[IanG]

I'm just finishing fixing a Luc ? shutter. Help with any information would be useful as I'm not 100% sure what make it is there's no markings at all. The seller remembered his late father using it on a plate camera back in the 1960's, it had sat in storage since he'd died in the 80's.

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The shutter itself was bought on ebay for £1.99 ($3.20) about 6 weeks ago. It's a front mounting shutter with 3 locking screws, 50mm diameter was in poor condition, rusty shutter blades and functioned on Z (T), M was the same as Z, and O which opens the lens was OK. Now with the interior cleaned and some light lubrication the shutter actually has a functioning M setting which I'd guess is about 1/50 to 1/100th (depends on how fast you release the shutter though - too slow and it's inconsistent, otherwise and it stays constant).

My dilemma now is the paint needs restoring and as mentioned in a different thread the choice is difficult. The old lead based paints were banned and are long gone. This needs a primer and then a satin black finish. I seem to have two options satin black auto paint or satin finish Japlac, anyone with experience ?

Ian

[Struan Gray]

Krylon matt-black always seems to be recommended by the careful workers. It stays liquid long enough that you can spray some into a pot and paint with a normal paintbrush.

It's always been too much of a pain to get hold of for me, so I've used Airfix modelling paint for the small jobs I've had to do in recent years.

If you value the look of your lenses, you might consider swapping the locking screws out for modern nylon-tipped versions.

[IanG]

Krylon matt-black always seems to be recommended by the careful workers. It stays liquid long enough that you can spray some into a pot and paint with a normal paintbrush.

It's always been too much of a pain to get hold of for me, so I've used Airfix modelling paint for the small jobs I've had to do in recent years.

If you value the look of your lenses, you might consider swapping the locking screws out for modern nylon-tipped versions.

I've cellulose based auto paint, which will be similar to Krylon, and by warming the shutter to about 75°C before priming I've avoided any pickling (reaction betwen the original paint and new). I didn't try to make it look new just more presentable. In the end I used gloss plack apint followed by a light coat of satin black.

"If you value the look of your lenses, you might consider swapping the locking screws out for modern nylon-tipped versions."

I'd thought about that Struan, I use a few front mounting Thornton Pickard shutters and these use a rubber spacer and a single screw to hold them in place, so I'll do the same with this shutter, a rubber spacer will also help make the shutter ligh-tight on the front of a lens.

I'm still puzzled as to the make, it's probably not a Luc shutter but the Z, M, and O would indicate it's probably German

Ian

[Pete Watkins]

Hi Ian,
I wouldn't use cellulose if I were you. If it's just to protect the metal you could try blackboard paint or Humbrol enamel paint used by modelers (if you want to pay top prices try Hobbycraft). If there is a funny little logo that looks like three spires (needs imagination) it is a real LUC shutter.
I'll be in touch soon, see you next month.
Pete

[IanG]

It's all finished Pete, too late :cool:. I've a background in using various paints commercially so I'm well aware of potential issues.

I think my preferred paint would have been Japlac, the black satin matt finish, but I've not got a workshop set up at the moment and it's slower drying particulary now it's getting colder. I actually baked the shutter casing (in the oven) as I sprayed it so it's already a very hard wearing paint job.

There were no markings at all on the shutter casing aside from a white line next to the control thumbwheel, and that line's restored as well.

Hope you have that plate thingy for me :D

Ian

[Roger Hesketh]

Hi Ian A Luc shutter looks like this.

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I have several in various sizes and they are all the same apart from the size that is. I remember reading somewhere that the DAY shutter was similar but I have never seen one. I have found that the locking screws do not tend to mark the lens barrels as they do not have to be screwed down that hard. They only need to be turned until they just touch.

Roger

[IanG]

Thanks Roger

I hadn't thought of Day shutters and I should have plenty of adverts for them, however they are British made so that doesn't explain the Z (time - T), M (instantaneous) O whatever in German :D I can translate chemical formulae but no more :D

I bought a 180mm CZJ Tessar from the US a few weeks before and the Wollensak shutter is quite similar in operation although a beast as you'd expect and a lot larger.

Ian

[Roger Hesketh]

I have found a graflex speed.i.o.scope pictured below to be very useful with some barrel lenses. Unlike the LUC they are only found in one size.The shutter is made by Ilex. It looks like an Ilex size 3 and I believe it was used to train observers in Aircraft recognition. The shutter made the image of the plane visible for varying lengths of time.

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It is shown here front mounted to a 360mm Apo Ronar in a barrel mount. They do not tend to make high prices on that auction site. What type of Wollensak shutter is it on the Tessar?

Roger

[Struan Gray]

I would guess the Luc logo was based upon the outline of the cathedral (Frauenkirche) in Munich. Back in the days when I browsed eBay.de regularly I saw lots of other makers and re-branded OEM versions go past, so I'm not sure why Luc in particular gets remembered as the type manufacturer. A bit like roller blind shutters and Thornton Pickard. Gitzo is another name that turns up reasonably regularly.

Roger, that shutter looks a lot like the ones found on oscilloscope and other recording cameras for technical use. I've used a few for front mounting. The oscilloscope versions are a tad tricky to mount on a lensboard because they often lack a rear thread for a jam nut or flange.