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Cletus
30-Sep-2012, 17:41
Okay, I know this question has come up many times (I'm sure) but searches don't seem to reveal anything too clearly that I can find here...

I'm looking at all these nice, reasonably priced Ronars and Artars and such in barrel, with no shutters. How do you normally deal with this? I've seen electric shutters on EBay and home-made guillotine jobbies, but it isn't obvious to me how these should be used / mounted? How would you get one of these thing behind your lens in a modern (or any) camera?

And what about all these beautiful antique lenses? I see photos of large cameras with big brass lenses hanging off the front, but what about the shutters? Surely everyone isn't carrying a "hat" around in their camera bags and guessing at 1/15" exposures all the time?

So what's the trick to this? I'd like to try one of these nice 24" Ronars or similar, but I'm at a loss as to how to time my exposures. Thanks for your input!

vinny
30-Sep-2012, 17:48
Lens cap, hat, or Packard. Sinar shutter if you've got the $$$.

Gem Singer
30-Sep-2012, 17:50
Graphic or Graflex camera with a focal plane shutter.

Cletus
30-Sep-2012, 18:08
Gem - what's that? I mean, I have an idea what a Graflex camera and a focal plane shutter is, but is that something the shutter of thw type that could be retrofitted (read:kludged) into another camera? Doesn't seem likely, is there something I'm missing here?

Im asking this because I'd like to be able to use lenses of this type, or any barrel lens, on my Sinar 8x10 - I guess I could start searching for a Sinar-kilobuck-shutter, but surely that's not what everyone does? I'm not even sure how those things work, exactly, but maybe looking at one would make it more clear. I know people sometimes have some sort of shutter arrangement mounted inside the camera, behind the lensboard, but I'm having trouble picturing how this would work. What, punch a hole in the bellows for a release cable???

Anyway, I guess I was just hoping to hear some consensus from the majority of those - and there seem to be plenty out there - who use barrel lenses on a regular basis. Surely it isn't common usage to throw a lenscap or hat over the lens as a means of consistent exposure? Or maybe so, it just doesn't seem too plausible to me...

C. D. Keth
30-Sep-2012, 18:20
The usual behind the lensboard arrangement that you see is called a packard shutter. They come in a bunch of sizes and have been made for a long time. They're pretty tough items. It's actuated pneumatically with an airbulb and rubber hose so you need airtube fittings either on the lensboard or on the front standard. These are usually brass and so are light tight. The trick with packards is that the shutter speed is determined by the firmness of your hand on that air bulb. It takes a little practice but you can get surprisingly precise with them. Edward Weston actually preferred the airbulb setup over mechanical shutters like his graflex had because, he wrote, he preferred to feel his exposures rather than calculate them. That's my paraphrasing.

Cletus
30-Sep-2012, 18:36
Christopher - that's more like it. I know what a Packard shutter is - or at least I know what one looks like! - and that seems to be the more likely solution for this. vinny mentioned this too. So does this shutter mount into some sort of assembly which then mounts to the back of the lensboard? Or is it like 'modern lenses and shutters', one Packard shutter for each lens? Does one just comb eBay and the classifieds looking for these shutters? Also, do they need to be specifically sized for the individual lens, the elements to be screwed into the shutter and what-not, or are they used more in a "universal" application? I'm trying to get straight on this and haven't been able to find much, like a diagram maybe, of how to use a shutter of this type.

I also have an enquiry in with SK Grimes, asking about mounting several specific Ronars, and whether they can mount directly into a Copal 3 shutter, but that's a pretty expensive option and also pretty limiting if I found another likely barrel lens - other than a Ronar- to try out.

Gem Singer
30-Sep-2012, 18:59
Phil,

In your original post, you didn't mention that you wanted to mount a barrel lens on your 8x10 Sinar camera.

You merely wanted to know how folks typically use barrel lenses on LF cameras.

I try to answer questions like I read them.

jp
30-Sep-2012, 19:02
Look for a deardorff recessed board for holding a packard shutter; it holds the lensboard in front of the shutter board; a sandwich. Such installations require the hose to come through to the front somehow. Many old lensboard have a crude hole bored through them for the airhose. It's physically separate from the lens, and a lens with a deep rear element won't work with this sort of setup.

I've seen Sinar shutters used, packard shutters used, check youtube for the "galli shutter" and guillotine shutter; probably packard shutters are on there too being demonstrated. If you've got a lens that will work natively on a Copal 3, that's a good thing. The Copal3 will get you flash sync, a variety of speeds, and fit a variety of cameras. Get a used copal3 shutter if you don't want to buy new. I wouldn't pay a ton of money to hire someone to adapt a lens to it unless you are very certain you will keep that.

I mostly use barrel lenses on my 4x5 speed graphic, for it's focal plane shutter. I do other methods for 8x10.

William Whitaker
30-Sep-2012, 19:55
Im asking this because I'd like to be able to use lenses of this type, or any barrel lens, on my Sinar 8x10 - I guess I could start searching for a Sinar-kilobuck-shutter, but surely that's not what everyone does?...

If you're using a Sinar camera, get a Sinar shutter. No, they're not cheap initially. But in the long run they're economical because you can use them with almost any lens. They're designed to work with Sinar cameras without requiring any modifications.

Merg Ross
30-Sep-2012, 21:00
I have a Sinar shutter mounted to my Calumet 8x10, and a Luc on an Agfa 8x10, modified for behind the lens. I also have a Luc that I front mount on barrel lenses for the 4x5. A Packard is a good choice for barrel lenses, if critical exposure times are not paramount; for accuracy, I would recommend the Sinar shutter; very accurate and cost effective, depending on how much 8x10 film you plan to shoot.

Alan Gales
30-Sep-2012, 21:19
Like Will and Merg says, since you own a Sinar do it right and buy the Sinar Shutter. You will be happy you did. Just make sure when you buy it you get all the cables (shutter release cable, flash sync cable and the two piece cable that allows the shutter to be cocked when a film holder is inserted). They are expensive when sold separately.

C. D. Keth
30-Sep-2012, 22:13
You can use packard shutters a variety of ways. Sometimes they're permanently mounted on the inside of the front standard. Sometimes they're in an adapter lensboard type thing. SOme people also make a front mount with a packard that attaches to the barrel with thumbscrews or with filter step rings if the lens/es in question have filter threads.

As far as size, the shutter just has to be large enough not to vignette. Using too large a shutter is not a problem up until it's too large to fit inside the bellows, or causes weight issues if you're using it on the front of the lens.

jcoldslabs
1-Oct-2012, 01:38
Unless you're shooting wide open in bright sunlight, slow film and small apertures are your best friends. At least they're mine when it comes to barrel lenses. No joke. I shoot T-Max 100, for instance, but rate it at EI 50. If conditions aren't blinding I can easily stop down to f/32 or less and end up with speeds (1/4 sec. and slower) that I can reliably hit with a dark slide or lens cap as my shutter. If I'm shooting wide open in brighter light I don't use my barrel lenses. For the low price many of these shutter-less lenses can be had, I'm willing to live with the restrictions.

Jonathan

IanG
1-Oct-2012, 01:45
The British Thornton Pickard roller blind shutters are another option, speeds from 1/15th - 1/90th + T and if you have the pneumatic release and valve longer speeds are vailable as well 1/4 to 3-4 seconds. These shutters were made in a variety of sizes, I've fitted one to a large Darlot, they made two types one for front mounting the other between the lens & lensboard. They were sold by B&J in the US.

An advantage of these TP shutters is they can often accept different front panels so one shutter can work easily with a number of lenses.

http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/cameras/images/QP_shutter.jpg

http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/cameras/images/hp0024.jpg

I do have other options as I have a Speed Graphic and also a Thornton Picard Ruby Reflex. I've had a Packard shutter for some time and have just bought a Norka (barn door type) shutter from this forum last week and Luc type shutter on Friday. Enough for a short article . . . . . . . . . . .

Ian

ic-racer
1-Oct-2012, 06:02
It is a pain. If you are interested in taking pictures, spend the extra few dollars and get a lens in shutter.

jcoldslabs
1-Oct-2012, 06:06
...spend the extra few dollars and get a lens in shutter.

That doesn't work if the lens you want to shoot with doesn't come in--or is too big for--a shutter.

Jonathan

BrianShaw
1-Oct-2012, 06:14
Graphic or Graflex camera with a focal plane shutter.

ditto... Anniversary Graphic

rdenney
1-Oct-2012, 06:43
There are several camps of people who use lenses in barrels:

1. Those who own Sinar cameras,

2. Those willing to use press cameras with built-in film-plane shutters (ala Speed Graphic), and

3. Everyone else.

In Group 3, you have several strategies: Mount the lens in a standard shutter (if it has the right threads--some do), fabricate an adapter for a standard shutter (see S.K. Grimes), fabricate an attachment to a Packard shutter (and live with limited speeds), adapt some vintage shutter like a Thornton Pickard, or use a hat (even more limited speeds).

In Group 2, you get a shutter built into the camera that operates just in front of the film. It provides limited speeds, and it's a little finicky. The main problem is living with the limitations of a press camera.

For those in Group 1, including yourself, all those methods may end up costing as much as just doing it right. And the right way is to first acquire a Sinar Copal Auto-Aperture shutter (not a later electronic model). You won't need the Auto-Aperture part for this application. It provides a range of speeds from 1/60 to 8 seconds using a standard (though very large) leaf shutter that syncs with flash and works just like a real shutter. Make sure you get the cables. It mounts on the back side of the front standard, and the bellows mounts to it. You use the diaphragm provided in the lens barrel.

Sinar made a series of special lens mounts for their branded versions of generally available lenses, called DB mounts. The idea was to make all controls fully visible from behind the camera and provide full-aperture viewing, just like with fixed-body cameras. But that is not the application here.

For barrel lenses, the easiest way is to get a "lens mounting iris" or "iris clamp" and mount it to a Sinar lens board. Then, insert the barrel lens, clamp the iris down onto the barrel at any convenient point where it won't easily slip, and make photos. But you can also mount a flange for the barrel lens (and barrel lenses are usually designed to be screwed into a threaded flange) onto a Sinar lens board and use it that way. As long as the shutter opening isn't occluding the image, and as long as the lens mounting is light tight, it does not matter whether the lens is close up against the shutter.

The pre-Auto-Aperture Norma-era shutter will also work fine, but will not provide the automatic aperture with later DB lenses if you ever decide to go that way. I've never bought a DB lens, because they are commonly available in focal lengths I already have, but it is sometimes cheaper than getting the same lens in a shutter (sometimes).

The Sinar shutter isn't that cheap, but it's not that expensive, either. I paid between $300 and $400 for mine from KEH when they had a batch they were unloading. I spent time waiting for that price, though. Again, make sure you get the cables--they are perhaps still available from Sinar, but you'll double your cost. The iris clamp's price will be harder to comprehend than the shutter.

If you start collecting barrel lenses, you'll end up with the Sinar shutter anyway, and anything you spend trying to avoid the price of a Sinar shutter will end up being wasted. Start where you want to end up.

Of course, you don't have to use lenses in barrels. But most process lenses come that way, and many interesting ancient lenses do too, or their shutters are unrepairable.

Rick "who has been down this road" Denney

Dan Fromm
1-Oct-2012, 08:48
Rick, you're absolutely right about the economics. A Sinar or Packard shutter, if it is usable with the lenses, is probably the most economical way to use a number of barrel lenses. The Sinar-Copal shutter's big advantage over the Packard is timed speeds as fast as 1/60.

If it is usable. Two limitations. First, the lens has to be mounted on the board so that it won't protrude so far behind the board that it interferes with the shutter. Mount adapters, if needed, won't be inexpensive. My preferred machine shop, skgrimes, prices them by size; the larger, the more expensive. Second, if the lens' exit pupil with its diaphragm wide open is larger than the shutter's maximum opening, f/stops at which the exit pupil is larger than the shutter's maximum opening are unusable. I hit this problem in a big way when I tried hanging a 900/10 Apo Saphir in front of a Copal #1. Vignetting wasn't a problem in my application, but the lens' diaphragm had no effect until f/32.

Another possibility with big lenses is hanging a Compound or Ilex #5 in front of the lens. Doing this will require an adapter for each lens, although there are ways to economize on them. It avoids the need for adapters to mount the lens on board. Re the second limitation, both shutters' maximum opening is 65 mm, both's fastest top speed is 1/50. My Compound 5, back from overhaul, won't go quite that fast. Ilex 5s are easier to find and less expensive.

I suggest putting the shutter in front of the lens instead of behind, which is conventional, because big lenses are, well, big. For example, with a Compound 5 close behind my 900, the shutter's controls are completely inaccessible.

Vignetting may be a problem with front-mounting. I haven't encountered it, but I shoot 2x3 with lenses for larger formats.

Rick, the OP abused me roundly in another thread. I wouldn't be surprised if he's marked me "ignore." I'd appreciate it if you'd quote this reply to you. Like you, I've been there and done that and he needs to learn from me.

DrTang
1-Oct-2012, 09:24
First, the lens has to be mounted on the board so that it won't protrude so far behind the board that it interferes with the shutter. Mount adapters, if needed, won't be inexpensive.


I have devised my own crude-o cave man style of mounting such lenses onto the sinar boards. OSH hardward has these 1" hard plastic spacers that I use between the flange and lens board at each mounting hole creating the offset..then I wrap it with black electrical tape to hopefully make it light tight

Oren Grad
1-Oct-2012, 09:30
If it is usable. Two limitations. First, the lens has to be mounted on the board so that it won't protrude so far behind the board that it interferes with the shutter.

This can be handled by putting the shutter in an intermediate standard. The front standard with rear-protruding barrel lens can be positioned so that the rear of the lens just clears the shutter, then all focusing and movements are done with the rear standard so as not to disturb this alignment. A bag bellows between the intermediate and front standards will allow sufficiently close positioning. A bit Rube Goldberg-ish and not appropriate for all situations, but it's an option worth keeping in mind.

Cletus
1-Oct-2012, 11:07
I've been reading through all the comments here re: the 'barrel lens solution' and I really appreciate hearing from all of you for the diverse ways you've handled this common problem. And thank you, too, Mr. Fromm, for you input. You are not on my ignore list, nor anyone. I don't know about you, but I'd always rather get my hatchets quickly into the ground, so's not to present an impediment to hearing other's views on stuff like this. Clearly you are as well rounded as anyone on this subject and between you, Rick Denny and several others, I think I can petty clearly see the way forward with this now.

It looks like for me it will mean staying out of the LF classifieds for awhile (to staunch the $$$ hemorraging) and acquiring a proper Sinar shutter. I've briefly looked at these before and I guess it hadn't occurred to me that these would be useful for anything other than those DB mounted lenses. Sounds more like the Sinar shutter is the big solution for any shutter-less lens with the proper diameter rear element (lest I accept the limit to my maximum aperture - if the lens is larger than the shutter opening?) I sent a message to SKG asking about mounting some of the longer Ronars in Copal and their answer was, you typically can't mount them in any shutter. At least not easily.

- Would anyone recommend the 480/9 (or 450/9?) Ronar, which are often already mounted in C3 shutters, as a good alternative to the 450 Fujinon C? Off topic, I know, but looks like an interesting lens that can be found already shuttered.

And so now I understand what these fairly large "iris clamps" are for as well. I admit, I thought they were some kind of outboard f-stop/aperture diaphragm device for some huge, antique lens! Sounds more like a way to have a universal lensboard of sorts, to mount all those odd sized Petzvals and other old lenses without needing an expensive, individual custom mounting job for each one.

Oh, and I also like Oren Grad's suggestion of using an intermediate standard and bag bellows to support a Packard or Luc(?) shutter assembly. Since I seem to own some of these intermediate components, could be a viable, lower cost way of doing this. Thanks Oren.

Merg Ross
1-Oct-2012, 11:32
From an earlier thread (2008), my adaptation of the Luc Shutter is attached.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?40875-Sinar-Shutter-Alternative

Dan Fromm
1-Oct-2012, 11:45
Apo Ronars are very competitive with all other apo process lenses, including the Fuji C. If you look at the Department of asleep at the switch thread in the lounge, you'll find references to recent sales of ARs in shutter at surprisingly low prices. Finding one at a good price will take patience, looking on ebay.de as well as on ebay.com, and some losing bids. They're going for a lot less than they used to.

If you follow Oren's advice, make sure to set the camera up with the shutter as close as possible to the back of the lens. Otherwise you'll risk vignetting problems. The longest focal length that can be used on my little tandem Graphic (two Graphics on a rail, with a coupler between them) is limited by the rear camera's front standard's lens throat. This is the same problem.

Re Oren's advice, putting anything but a Sinar shutter [If I've got it right, could be the other 'way round but that changes nothing. Its made to attach to a Sinar standard, accepts a Sinar bellows behind it] will require adapters for attaching at both ends.

I wasn't clear. What's limiting isn't the lens barrel's OD, it is the diameter of the lens' exit pupil. The barrel's OD is typically much larger.

Cletus
1-Oct-2012, 18:34
Dan - I know this question is probably getting a little far into the nitty-gritty, but how does one determine the size / diameter of the exit pupil of the lens? Would that just be the same as the rearmost element diameter? Doesn't the "light rays" go through mostly the central part of the lens itself, or am I way off on this? (I'm certainly way off in my terminology!)

I'm trying to figure out, if I fianlly manage to identify my 'target lens', which is probably a ~600 APO Ronar or similar, what dimension of the lens would I need to look at to determine the minimum size of the shutter opening? Oh, and I do understand about locating the shutter ACAP to the rear of the lens to avoid vignette. Appreciate the heads-up on that.

Ken Lee
1-Oct-2012, 18:40
Sinars are cheap these days. Purchasing a Sinar Shutter (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/lenses/#SinarShutter), you'll save money that would otherwise go to (redundant) shutters and their installation.

The Sinar Shutter operates a bit like a modern SLR camera: you can squeeze the cable release to determine depth of field as you stop down the lens. You also get to operate the camera from the rear, where the film is, etc.

The Sinar Shutter has precisely timed exposures from 1/60 to 8 seconds. Whoever invented it, did a great job. I have several of my shutter-mounted lenses adapted to Sinar db boards, so I can use them that way.

Here (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/sinaron/) is a gallery of photos made with a 210mm Macro Sinaron mounted on a Sinar Shutter: some indoors, others outdoors.

William Whitaker
1-Oct-2012, 18:48
...how does one determine the size / diameter of the exit pupil of the lens? Would that just be the same as the rearmost element diameter?

Look through the lens from the rear with the aperture wide open. The diameter of the illuminated area is (or is very close to) the exit pupil diameter. It helps to point the lens toward an evenly illuminated surface.

Cletus
1-Oct-2012, 18:50
Ken - yeah, that's a pretty compelling argument for the Sinar shutter! I'm bettin' there's no shutter - or lens - out there that'd let me make pictures like that, though. Now I'm just a little jealous. :)

Cletus
1-Oct-2012, 18:52
Will, I'm looking at - through- a lens right now and I see exactly what your talking about. Thank you for clarifying that!

Armin Seeholzer
2-Oct-2012, 04:13
There is not any doubt about it for a Sinar its a Sinar shutter, and I'm living in Sinar land:cool:
The name Sinar comes from:
S: Studio
I: Industry
N: Nature
A: Architecture
R: Reproduction

The cameras was made from a professional photographer for them and the whole thing with Swiss accuracy and business cleverness!
But since the digital revolution they lost a bit the focus and did similar mistakes like Kodak!

Cheers Armin

pasiasty
2-Oct-2012, 05:34
I recently bought a Xenar 240/3.5 in a Compound 5 - it was quite affordable and the shutter works perfectly. As the shutter is really big, I'll use it also with some barrel lenses, currently I've a step-up ring lathed for Dallmeyer 1B.

jnantz
2-Oct-2012, 05:57
i just use a big lens cap i fashioned myself out of cardboard and black masking tape
( fp shutters on 4x5 graflex )
reinhold schable here on this forum sells barrel lenses with a mount collar for front mounted packard shutters
http://re-inventedphotoequip.com/Site/Shutters.html
he's also creating a front mounted guillotine shutter ...
if you don't need a full plate of shutter speeds
a simple solution that he makes might be worth it
and from all reports, the lenses &c he sells are beautiful...

Dan Fromm
2-Oct-2012, 06:08
Dan - I know this question is probably getting a little far into the nitty-gritty, but how does one determine the size / diameter of the exit pupil of the lens? Would that just be the same as the rearmost element diameter? Doesn't the "light rays" go through mostly the central part of the lens itself, or am I way off on this? (I'm certainly way off in my terminology!)

I'm trying to figure out, if I fianlly manage to identify my 'target lens', which is probably a ~600 APO Ronar or similar, what dimension of the lens would I need to look at to determine the minimum size of the shutter opening? Oh, and I do understand about locating the shutter ACAP to the rear of the lens to avoid vignette. Appreciate the heads-up on that.

600/9? Tiny little lens of nothing at all. Get a Sinar shutter and don't look back.

ImSoNegative
2-Oct-2012, 06:29
both the barrel lenses i have for my 8x10 i use with packard shutters, normally the fastest speed i use with my barrel lenses is 1/15 to 1/8 sec which isnt too hard with a packard. brand new they are a bit on the expensive side, but you can find a used one pretty cheap. mine i paid 50 and 30.

Frank Petronio
2-Oct-2012, 06:36
If I were doing it, I'd put the older Sinar shutter on an intermediate standard and use a second bellows to get to the front standard. On the front standard I'd have an iris clamp and attach any old lens I felt like.

BUT I bet you could get pretty good at doing 1/15th, 1/4, 1/2 and 1 second shutter impersonations with a lens cap and a little practice... blowing a few sheets of film to know whether or not you like the lens is cheaper than buying a shutter.

I once had Lens2Shutter mount an old lens to a shutter - they were less expensive than SK Grimes too - but it still cost more than the entire Sinar outfit.

Amedeus
2-Oct-2012, 08:06
Sinar Copal shutter for most of my lenses, I own 3 in total ... elegant solution and as Frank and others pointed out, with an intermediate standard and second bellows you can get to the front standard and accommodate for that part of the lens that sticks out beyond the flange or universal iris if you have one.

For lenses with rear elements that are much larger than the opening of the Sinar, I use an electrically activated Packard Shutter with a 4" opening but that's not a flexible as the fastest time I'm getting is about 1/15th second. I'm also sacrificing a Speed Graphic to become a focal plane shutter I can use on the front standard of a Kodak 2D. That has become a project on its own though ... lol ...

Ken Lee
2-Oct-2012, 09:10
Ken - yeah, that's a pretty compelling argument for the Sinar shutter! I'm bettin' there's no shutter - or lens - out there that'd let me make pictures like that, though. Now I'm just a little jealous. :)

You can mount a Sinar Shutter on other cameras too. People have done that, and you can find them with a bit of searching. Shen Hao even made/makes a model which allows that - and as I recall, there were some 3rd party adapters for sale on eBay.

rdenney
2-Oct-2012, 09:26
You can mount a Sinar Shutter on other cameras too. People have done that, and you can find them with a bit of searching. Shen Hao even made/makes a model which allows that - and as I recall, there were some 3rd party adapters for sale on eBay.

Ken, you're thinking of the Shen-Hao XPO.

But Phil already owns a Sinar, so he's already in the sweet spot for making use of the Sinar shutter.

I think he was complimenting the photos you used as an example. It wasn't the shutter or even the lens choice that made those photos what they are.

Rick "the Sinar shutter increases the size of the toolbox only" Denney

Amedeus
2-Oct-2012, 11:57
You can mount a Sinar Shutter on other cameras too. People have done that, and you can find them with a bit of searching. Shen Hao even made/makes a model which allows that - and as I recall, there were some 3rd party adapters for sale on eBay.

You can make your adaptor from just the Sinar front frame and mount on a (larger) lensboard with a large hole for the target camera. I picked one up on the cheap and that is going on the front of my Speed Graphic focal plane shutter contraption.

E. von Hoegh
3-Oct-2012, 07:25
Lenses "in barrel" - how do you typically use these?

I have one that's a nice paperweight.

Dan Fromm
3-Oct-2012, 08:57
Lenses "in barrel" - how do you typically use these?

I have one that's a nice paperweight.

So do I, but its more of a desk weight than a paper weight. Keeps the desk and the papers from blowing away in a high wind.

200/2 S.F.O.M. that weighs around 14 pounds. Some lenses in barrel aren't easily used.

Cletus
3-Oct-2012, 10:00
Yeah, I don't think there's anything at all new about the concept of "who's got the biggest, fastest and most expensive lenses". Funny how some of these huge, brass 14"/f4 lenses reminds me of a recent little league game I attended in University Park in Dallas. I got a big kick out of watching several of the "Rich Dads" with their latest, giant DSLRs and 300/2.8s (and one even donning a photogs vest). All of them trying their best to look like pro sports shooters with their Gitzo monopods and surreptitiously measuring d*cks with each other in the bleachers.

I wouldn't be caught dead...

Dan Fromm
3-Oct-2012, 10:59
Phil, you don't want that 200/2. It is just too hard to use.

I bought it as a speculation, hoping to sell it to the sort of person who buys these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taylor-Hobson-Cooke-Anastigmat-2-100-580620-FREE-SHIPMENT-/160855781658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2573c0711a Unfortunately it isn't in particularly good condition, so I doubt I can sell it. Not a big loss and now I know what it is. Braggin' rights aren't worth the proverbial pitcher of warm spit.

That 4"/2 TTH, on the other hand, is very useful. Mine is nicer than the one in that eBay listing, cost $30 delivered from the UK. I sometimes shoot it on a 2x3 Graphic. Not a lens for competing with others, just a good tool when what it does well is needed.

Phil, I tried to send you a PM on braggin'. Your mailbox is full, please delete some messages.

Cletus
3-Oct-2012, 13:07
Dan -

I cleared my Inbox, so PM should go through now...

Also, FWIW, the comments above were just an observation about something rather typical I noticed about (some) photographer's and their gear. And when cameras and lenses tend to become more status symbol than straight-up tools. I do enjoy my camera gear and I am certainly guilty of lens envy from time to time. I'd like to think, however, not to the point where lenses, cameras and general GAS (of which I do have my occasional bouts) preempt the reasons I enjoy photography in the first place. The whole barrel lens discussion was borne of the possibility of acquiring longer, larger coverage lenses for 8x10 for somewhat less than 2nd mortgage dollars!

With that said, I really am mostly interested in having the appropriate gear for my style of photography and I try - with varying degrees of success - to keep it about the pictures. ...not to say I wouldn't be in hog heaven if I were able to pick and choose any lens I took a liken' to, but than who wouldn't? :)

Hermes07
3-Oct-2012, 16:32
How do I use them?

Sinar P 8x10 front standard (with second standard bearer as front support)
10"x10" Solid Aluminium Lensboards
7" Opening behind the lens Packard Synchro Shutter

My bigger, cruder version of the Sinar shutter setup :)

Cletus
3-Oct-2012, 16:56
Hermes -

Nothing wrong with that. After reading through all these posts and different ways people do this, it seems to me like all you really need to use lenses like this is ANY way to hold up the lens. And whatever you can find to support the shutter either behind, or out front - if you don't want to use your hat or a lenscap. Pretty simple after all and some of these ideas look to be fairly elegant solutions.

I guess it's like anything, where there is no common standard - old barrel lens threads or lack thereof, mounting schemes, dimensions - where a dose of creativity and ingenuity is all that's called for and you just make it work!

rdenney
3-Oct-2012, 19:17
I guess it's like anything, where there is no common standard - old barrel lens threads or lack thereof, mounting schemes, dimensions - where a dose of creativity and ingenuity is all that's called for and you just make it work!

Phil, you're getting it.

Rick "who received a lovely little iris clamp in the mail today" Denney