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Mark Stahlke
14-Sep-2012, 09:02
I've been processing my own black & white film for a couple of years. I'm shooting Ilford films - mostly Delta 100 and HP5+. I develop them in Ilford DD-X. I'm very comfortable with my procedures and I get consistent and satisfactory results. Now my curiosity is getting the better of me and I'd like to explore other developers. I'd like to know what more experienced darkroom workers suggest for the next developer to try.

Please keep in mind I don't have a proper darkroom. I develop 4x5 in a Combiplan-T in the kitchen and 8x10 in trays in the bathroom. There are kids and pets in the house so toxicity, storage, and disposal of spent developer are important considerations.

In case it matters, I do scanning and digital printing.

Thanks for you input.

bob carnie
14-Sep-2012, 09:06
Rodinal would be a good choice for a different look.

I've been processing my own black & white film for a couple of years. I'm shooting Ilford films - mostly Delta 100 and HP5+. I develop them in Ilford DD-X. I'm very comfortable with my procedures and I get consistent and satisfactory results. Now my curiosity is getting the better of me and I'd like to explore other developers. I'd like to know what more experienced darkroom workers suggest for the next developer to try.

Please keep in mind I don't have a proper darkroom. I develop 4x5 in a Combiplan-T in the kitchen and 8x10 in trays in the bathroom. There are kids and pets in the house so toxicity, storage, and disposal of spent developer are important considerations.

In case it matters, I do scanning and digital printing.

Thanks for you input.

Gem Singer
14-Sep-2012, 09:38
Went through the same decision making process a few years ago.

I scan my negatives and print digitally.

HP-5+ developed in DD-X had a tendency to blow out the highlights.

Changed to Pyrocat-HD (in glycol). No more blown out highlights.

(If you are concerned about the toxicity of Pyrocat-HD, just make sure you don't drink it).

jp
14-Sep-2012, 10:37
Yes, try the Pyrocat-HD in glycol (such as what formulary makes). Concentrate can be stored a long time, up out of reach of kids. It goes down the drain before a plain water stop bath. They will look denser than a normal non-staining developer due to the image stain, but it still scans and prints well.

I use it in a combiplan for 4x5 and tray for 8x10 also.

Andrew O'Neill
14-Sep-2012, 11:13
I think it's time for you to explore pyro. Lots of formulas out there. My favourite is pyrocat-hd.

DKirk
14-Sep-2012, 13:35
Try stand process rodinal at 1:100 odd works quite nicely for me. Though I am embarking on using a pyro developer called Prescyol, and a ditto for the Combiplan.

Kirk Fry
14-Sep-2012, 16:23
How about something really boring like HC-110?

Kirk Gittings
14-Sep-2012, 17:00
Pyrocat HD presents a beautiful negative for scanning.

jnantz
14-Sep-2012, 18:42
how about caffenol and its varients ?
i'll be packaging and selling ingredients
for caffenol made with sumatran beans,
feel free to PM me if you are interested ...

Mark MacKenzie
15-Sep-2012, 06:48
I like HC-110 but like you I have been curious. Leigh has advocated Diafine and that sounds quite interesting but you will have to test for your film EI. I've never used it but it sounds so completely different. 2 parts. No precision with time or temperature and an easy compensating developer for high contrast scenes. If I only had more time...

Michael_4514
15-Sep-2012, 07:01
Rodinal and HC110. Like you, I'm curious and like to experiment. Like Mark, "if I only had more time . . ."

Mark Stahlke
16-Sep-2012, 18:06
Thanks for the suggestions.
I think I'll try Pyrocat HD, it sounds interesting. Other suggestions sound like fun too.

Like Mark and Michael said, so many choices, so little time. That's why I asked for suggestions. :)

Thanks again.

Nana Sousa Dias
22-Sep-2012, 15:04
Thanks for the suggestions.
I think I'll try Pyrocat HD, it sounds interesting. Other suggestions sound like fun too.

Like Mark and Michael said, so many choices, so little time. That's why I asked for suggestions. :)

Thanks again.

Mark...

Everyone is going to tell you to try the developer they use...

You told us at the begining of this thread that you were getting good and consistent results with the developer you've been using for a while...so, why changing?

A lot of guys will tell you to use this developer, that kind of paper, that kind of film, camera, lens, etc....

If you answer those guys and tell them to use YOUR developer, YOUR paper, YOUR film, camera, lens, etc, we will never get ANYWHERE!!!! We will spend our whole life testing...

I have seen FANTASTIC photographs made with all kind of cameras, lenses, developers, films, etc....so, it's possible to do a great photograph with almost everything...you just need a nice piece of "equipment" behind the lens... ;-)

Andrew O'Neill
22-Sep-2012, 15:11
I think I'll try Pyrocat HD, it sounds interesting. Other suggestions sound like fun too.

And it's an excellent developer for stand/semi-stand development highly diluted.

Ed Richards
22-Sep-2012, 18:35
I second not changing what works. But if you do, try something from this millenia - Xtol. Lot toxicity, good speed, excellent tonal range.

Ed Richards
23-Sep-2012, 06:44
That should read, low toxicity. :-)

tgtaylor
23-Sep-2012, 08:04
I have some WD2D+ that I'm going to try on film and tonight I plan to print warm tone Ilford, Bergger, and Oriental paper with Ilford Warm Tone developer and then Dektol to see what I like best for the set of images.

Thomas

hmf
23-Sep-2012, 09:44
I second not changing what works. But if you do, try something from this millenia - Xtol. Lot toxicity, good speed, excellent tonal range.

I, too, am a dedicated Xtol user, for the very reasons Ed stated. But I'm not sure this is the time to get started with Xtol, or HC-100 for that matter :-( With Kodak's financial woes, Xtol is not easy to procure right now, and who knows what the future will bring. The last millenium may be the future ...

Lenny Eiger
23-Sep-2012, 10:13
Mark,
If you want a more traditional developer, use Xtol. Very tight grain, wonderful for scanning. Compress your times from an e.g. 8 minute span from N-3 to N+2 to a 2 minute one - start there... And then there's Pyro. Excellent.... I want to do more with it myself.

Rodinal is ok if you want it to look grainy. I would not recommend it for scanning. HC110 is not particularly great in any category other than storage.

Regarding toxicity, Pyro has a bad rap. However, its the inhalation of pyro dust that is the problem. You can buy pre-mixed solutions from Formulary and the problem goes bye bye.

Lenny