18x24 basket/developing frames - help needed

[cyberjunkie]

I am posting a picture of a set of developing frames, plus basket, i have just purchased.
The basket was sold as Kodak-type, but i have seen pictures of Kodak frames, and basket, which are different.
My frames have no "hooks" at the extremity, the top is of round shape, and it can't slid laterally because there is a plastic ring that stops them from moving.
The sheets are held by "crocodile jaws", the format is 18x24cm. I still have to try if the holders can be coaxed to work with 8x10" sheets, without damaging the image area.
The difference is not small, i think it will take much more than a slight bending.

I have a couple questions:
1) any clue about the maker? Do you know the internal size of Kodak hard rubber tanks?
2) is the cover of Kodak (or Kodak-like) tanks light tight?
3) i have a metal Dallon tank for 4x5" sheets which has both an intake and a drain, which should operate in full light, if the tank main cover is closed. Are there 8x10" tanks which offer the same feature?

I know very little about tanks for sheet films.
The Dallon tank was a recent purchase, but i didn't use it because i am shooting a small number of sheets lately, and the old Jobo daylight tank works a treat, if you don't need to develop many films (the Dallon holds 12).
Then i have three TALL standing development tanks, with MANY 9x12cm frames, a floating lid to avoid oxygenation of developer, a main cap (which should be light-tight), and a bottom tap that can be connected to the drainage.
There is a strange rubber band system which holds the frames, with an handle to transfer the frames from one tank to the others.
Never used them, not a single time! Not good for home use, too big!
Probably the floating lid prevented the oxygenation of my own brain cells, when i decided to purchase the whole lot :)
Kept in storage since then (> 15 years ago).
Fortunately it came quite cheap.

Now i have a Paterson orbital processor, without the "motor base". It means just one 8x10" sheet at a time.
A tank compatible with my basket, and which allows daylight operation, would be the perfect choice.
Other way, i would be fine with a tank that allows to turn on the lights in-between the operation (that is, filling and emptying developer and stop bath, and filling fixer).
I work with a makeshift darkroom, in a small bathroom. Doing all the process in the dark would be a nightmare.

Any advice is welcome.
I would happily buy a compatible tank, but i guess that it would make sense only if shipped from within EU (the basket/frames come from Germany, not over-expensive shipping).
80429

[joselsgil]

I have a couple questions:
1) any clue about the maker? Do you know the internal size of Kodak hard rubber tanks? Kodak hard rubber inside measurements. 8" wide x 11" long x 11" deep.

2) is the cover of Kodak (or Kodak-like) tanks light tight? NO

3) i have a metal Dallon tank for 4x5" sheets which has both an intake and a drain, which should operate in full light, if the tank main cover is closed. Are there 8x10" tanks which offer the same feature?
All of the 8X10 tanks that I have seen where either made for dip and dunk style developing. Or for nitrogen burst developing. They were designed so that you carried the film from developer to stop bath to fixer in total darkness, (except for the glow of the clock or timer).
If you want a system to develop 8X10 film in daylight. The options are Jobo tanks or BTZS tubes. Jobo tanks are $$$. I use BTZS tubes to develop from 4X5 film to 8X10 film in daylight. Look up Fred Newman's video on YouTube to see if this is something that might work for you.

Good luck,

Jose

[cyberjunkie]

Thanks Jose.
The information about the Kodak tank measures is much needed.
I will measure my basket, and see if it fits inside the Kodak tank.
I found that i can use some half plate and 5x7" frames with my basket, fitted across the short side, so i guess i have to find a compatible tank now.

It is a true pity that there are no daylight 8x10" tanks.
Having to do the whole processing in full darkness means that you have to juggle a lot, with a makeshift darkroom and a very, very small bathroom.
Unfortunately my stand development vertical tanks are a little too small to house the basket.
Other way i could fill them at 1/5 of their capacity, and fit some kind of handle to the basket, to move it from one tank to the others.
I could even do stand development, with a small initial agitation, and using a replenishable developer like Agfa Studional, which i could buy in some quantity on the cheap.
The floating lid and the main cover should allow to turn on the lights when the basket in inside one of the tanks.

If i can manage to have enough room do the whole process in the dark, with a Kodak (or Kodak-like) tank, which is the standard agitation method for dip and dunk processing?
I guess that it would make sense to use a one shot developer, like the new Rodinal at 1+50, throwing away the depleted developer after one round of processing.
That would allow to avoid pouring the used developer through a funnel, in the dark, to reuse it in the next round.

[joselsgil]

CJ,

It has been many many years since I developed using the dip and dunk method. As best that I recall, I would lift all of the hangers and tilt them to the left. After 30 seconds, lift them again and tilt them to the right, until you finished developing. The clock would be a Gralab with the glowing timer face. You do need ample room to set up the developing tanks.

The Kodak hard rubber tanks are not designed to be used with the basket setup. The tanks that used those baskets are made of stainless steel. Here in the USA, the most common brands were Arkay, and Emkay? Now and then, the tanks appear for sale, but it is best to find them locally as shipping can be expensive due to their size and weight.

For developer, I used to use Kodak HC110 dilution B and would add replenisher after developing rolls or sheets of film. Kodak does not make the HC110 replenisher, and I have been told to add straight HC110 to replenish the working developing solution. Using a one shot developer with the tanks would use a lot of developer. The 8X10 tank holds a lot of developing chemistry, which is why they were used with replenishing developers.

Currently, I am using PMK Pyro in BTZS 8X10 tubes. You can also make your own developing tubes as per this link.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?94237-A-Better-Mousetrap-DIY-Developing-Tubes-(Part-1)

If you don't have a lot of room in your darkroom. Why not try the tray developing method? It is a very old method of developing film, used by many old classic photographers.

Good luck,

Jose