Densitometer readings on expired 8X20 film. Is it usable?

[Marco Ferrarini]

I hope that some of you experienced LF shooters can help me. I have 8x20 Tri-X, expired 03/1992, and T-Max 400, exp. 08/2008. Stored at room temp.most of its life but refrigerated/frozen the last 4 years.
Took a sample of each to a local lab for a clip test. Their standard developer is X-tol. They cut a sheet of each in half, processed it using a dip and dunk method and took a densitometer reading. Film base + fog for the Tri-X was 0.29. For the T-Max, 0.20. I don't know what these numbers mean, relative to fresh sheet film. Is this excessive? What adjustments would you recommend for exposure and development times, as a starting point? What's a good developer to use in this situation?

[ic-racer]

It is no good. You have to send it to me for further testing of all the sheets :)

Seriously, those numbers look good for film of that age. In fact, the Tri-x from 1992 seems too low to believe. Even with cold storage film like that gets fogged. I have HP5 still frozen from 1986 and it is up over to 0.6 when last checked. They may have not developed the sheets long enough; it is hard to know.

[sanking]

It is no good. You have to send it to me for further testing of all the sheets :)

Seriously, those numbers look good for film of that age. In fact, the Tri-x from 1992 seems too low to believe. Even with cold storage film like that gets fogged. I have HP5 still frozen from 1986 and it is up over to 0.6 when last checked. They may have not developed the sheets long enough; it is hard to know.

I agree. B+F of 0.29 for twenty year old film is quite extraordinary. Tri-X that I have tested from that period, always stored in a freezer, would typically have a B+F of at least log 0.45. That adds only about 1 1/2 stops to exposure so with silver printing it is no problem at all. I know a couple of photographers who are still getting beautiful prints from negatives made with Super-XX manufactured prior to 1990.

Sandy

[Nathan Potter]

Sandy, a couple of years ago I finished the last of a box of Super XX, vintage about 1978. B + F ran about 0.65 in D-76 at 1:1. Using it was fine by simply moving the toe of the sensitometry curve about 2 EV so that in effect a new B + F ran at about 0.65. This crimps the shoulder at the high density end but I don't make much use of that anyhow.

The OPs film should be fine with exposure compensation for the fog. Of course this is a bit of a generalization for all EV vs D curves and assumes a curve is pretty linear over the exposure range.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Pawlowski6132]

Just shoot some. Geesh.

[Nathan Potter]

Just shoot some. Geesh.

Also a good idea. Just make sure you have enough film in your bag. :o

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Tim Meisburger]

Dear Ic-Racer,

I tried to send you a message but your box is full. I saw several places on the web where you said that when using a spotmeter on a negative on a light table, a 1/3 stop drop equals .1d, and I wondered if the drop is measured from a blank (unexposed) negative or from the light table. For example, .1d = (film base + fog) - 1/3 stop. And Zone 8 would equal (Fb+f) - 3 stops. Is that correct?


Thanks for your help.

Best, Tim

[Tim Meisburger]

nevermind. i found it