ABC pyro and HP5+

[wiggywag]

Hi!

Im going to try development by inspection with trays. My combination will be ABC Pyro and HP5+. Would love to hear any experience with this combination. Preferred dilution, time and temperature, results....etc.

Thanks!

[wiggywag]

Bump :)

[marfa boomboom tx]

Bump :)

quote from the main folks doing DBI: "With negatives developed in Pyro, the tones of the light print values (the dark tones on the negative) do not need to come through as much as they do when the film is developed in other developers. This is because Pyro is a surface developer and does not develop into the depths of the emulsion as do other developers. (A major reason why negatives developed in Pyro are extremely sharp is because there is less irradiation-the spreading of light as it passes through the depths of the emulsion. Although, because films made today are all thin emulsion films, irradiation is less of a factor than it was years ago.) And remember that Pyro is also a staining developer and that contrast is achieved in part through the stain, rather than through the density of the silver."

from: http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/devinsp.html

[Michael Kadillak]

Hi!

Im going to try development by inspection with trays. My combination will be ABC Pyro and HP5+. Would love to hear any experience with this combination. Preferred dilution, time and temperature, results....etc.

Thanks!

What you did not convey to the audience is what format you are exposing how you are printing said negative? The alternatives convey a significant difference in the processes that would be recommended.

[wiggywag]

What you did not convey to the audience is what format you are exposing how you are printing said negative? The alternatives convey a significant difference in the processes that would be recommended.

Hi! Im shooting mainly 8x10 at the moment and will do 7x17 as well. I will print on Lodima paper.

[RichardSperry]

How about shoot and develop some test shots?

And post your results here.

I don't think you need to use up a whole 8x10 sheet for each one. Cut it into quads, do a 10, 12, 14, 16 minute run to each one. Whichever one looks best to you, that's your starting time. Seems easy enough.

/shrug

[Michael Kadillak]

Hi! Im shooting mainly 8x10 at the moment and will do 7x17 as well. I will print on Lodima paper.

Make it easy on yourself as you get familiar with development by inspection. My recommendation is to keep things one dimensional with your tray development and DBI. With 8x10 I would go with Rodinal 1:100 and fill your 11x14 tray to the brim with solution whatever that ratio is. Start with 2 or 3 sheets at a time. At this dilution you will have plenty of time to cycle sheets taking your time and furthermore I would recommend Efke 25 or PL100 because these respond so well to Rodinal. Don't take this the wrong way but ABC is a developer that is best used when you have tray development mastered. Rodinal keeps things simple IMHO. You can process even Efke in trays trouble free as I do six at a time regularly in 8x10, 11x14 and 8x20. Just my $0.02.