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Tim Povlick
11-Aug-2012, 12:33
Greetings,

A couple of questions concerning the new Impossible 8x10 instant film...

How are folks dealing with the residual development gel? I squeegee it off the end and let the remaining portion to dry. Is there a better method?

The film seems to be between ISO 640 to 800. Is that what others are seeing.
Results look good to my eyes.

I tried a Polaroid Polaprinter 8x10. Results look good (print 35mm slide to 8x10). One question is the instruction manual says check focus with a 10x loupe. I do not see how to do this unless one checks the actual print, correct? Seems like an expensive way to find proper focus.

_ .. --
TiM

Ben Syverson
11-Aug-2012, 13:26
I'm seeing an ISO between 800-1000. It's a little tough to judge exactly, because I haven't been measuring the bellows with a ruler.

The biggest problem with 8x10 integral is that it simply doesn't dry for weeks, and in the meantime, it can go bad. My images have gone orange and in some cases crystalized.

I'm experimenting now with peeling it apart. I baked a shot at 150°F for an hour and then peeled it, and it has aged much better than the others.

Ben Syverson
11-Aug-2012, 21:55
If that's spam, it's a spam FAIL

Tim Povlick
12-Aug-2012, 07:50
Hi Ben,

Thanks for your insight. I'll work at asa800 and higher from now on.

It's difficult to determine exactly how the prints are aging. One that is two weeks old seems alright but a newer print looks to be more pure B&W and not "toned". Will try baking these at 150F under a vacuum and see what happens. Of course that's not much of a long term solution. Impossible recommends storing in a bag with descant, which does seem to work.

Best Regards,

Tim

Ben Syverson
12-Aug-2012, 09:36
Yeah, I need to find some larger desiccant packs so I can do the dry aging method. If you do it, let us know if it works for 8x10.

PS —*sorry about the "spam" post. I was responding to someone who posted a broken link, and their message must have been deleted.

Frank Petronio
12-Aug-2012, 09:38
So aptly named....

Tim Povlick
12-Aug-2012, 19:33
So aptly named....

Hi Frank,

With all due respect, some thoughts and notes.

Anyone that is working on bringing film / product to the LF community I applaud them and the Impossible Pioneers are helping them along.

Current image quality looks good to me, sure it can be improved but it's very much acceptable. One big hurdle they leaped over is protecting the film from light while it's developing. When testing their film I tried taking images in a dark room with flash. From the results one could see it performed better than when trying to shield film from light as it ejected from the camera. Sure enough now sample images with the new light protective coating show much improvement. Since 8x10 is protected from light in the Polaroid processor results are also good.

Once the longevity of the film is dialed in, the film will rock.

Trying to Remain Positive as Film Stocks Quickly Shrink,

Tim

PS: I enjoy most of your images, very creative.

Frank Petronio
12-Aug-2012, 19:55
Thanks for figuring it out for the rest of us!

welly
13-Aug-2012, 04:42
So aptly named....

You do make me laugh, Frank.

Got the quick release plate and postcard (now on the wall), thanks very much!

welly
13-Aug-2012, 04:45
Greetings,

A couple of questions concerning the new Impossible 8x10 instant film...

How are folks dealing with the residual development gel? I squeegee it off the end and let the remaining portion to dry. Is there a better method?

The film seems to be between ISO 640 to 800. Is that what others are seeing.
Results look good to my eyes.

I tried a Polaroid Polaprinter 8x10. Results look good (print 35mm slide to 8x10). One question is the instruction manual says check focus with a 10x loupe. I do not see how to do this unless one checks the actual print, correct? Seems like an expensive way to find proper focus.

_ .. --
TiM

What is required/involved in shooting the Impossible 8x10 film? I assume it's not as straightforward as an 8x10 polaroid film holder, taking your shot and waving the sheet in the air to dry, as you do with smaller Polaroid film and Fujiroid?

Ben Syverson
13-Aug-2012, 09:01
The biggest difference from the old process is that the image is integral (like 600 film), so you don't peel the sheets, and the image is flipped horizontally. And of course waving an integral shot won't do anything to help it dry.

Frank is probably wise to wait a few months... I'm testing Impossible's new color film, and it's vastly improved from their old generation. The final image seems to be far smoother and more stable. During development, you don't need to protect it from light unless you're outside. I can't wait for them to put that goop in the 8x10 pod machine.

broaddaylight
13-May-2014, 19:24
Greetings,

A couple of questions concerning the new Impossible 8x10 instant film...

How are folks dealing with the residual development gel? I squeegee it off the end and let the remaining portion to dry. Is there a better method?

The film seems to be between ISO 640 to 800. Is that what others are seeing.
Results look good to my eyes.

I tried a Polaroid Polaprinter 8x10. Results look good (print 35mm slide to 8x10). One question is the instruction manual says check focus with a 10x loupe. I do not see how to do this unless one checks the actual print, correct? Seems like an expensive way to find proper focus.

_ .. --
TiM

hi Tim,
do you remember what darkness settings you used on the polaprinter? im hopefully acquiring a polaprinter soon and would love any advise, i have shot impossible 8x10 in my sinar quite a bit but have never used a poalprinter, thanks in advance, any advice woudl be appreciated