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zone
8-Aug-2012, 02:18
Hallo...
I took some pictures on an excursion using ilford HP5.
After developing, I've seen that are a little light in the shadows and highlights a little weak. So I did some testing with the same film and the shadows are weak. I think this film should be used around 250/320 iso.
What do you think?
Is there anyone who has experience with this film?

PS: the lightmeter is ok, ok the developer (id-11) fresh stock

Greetings and thanks for your time.

vinny
8-Aug-2012, 03:44
yes. depends on how you are printing, yes.

Mark Barendt
8-Aug-2012, 03:51
Are you viewing the negative, a digital file, a print from an enlarger, or a print from a scan?

Each has it's own challenges.

Also are you incident metering or spot metering?

Yes it is true that adding extra exposure will get you more shadow detail but it also makes highlights tougher to print and harder to see on the negative. Given that you have problems at both ends I'm reluctant to think simply adding exposure will help by itself, as it will make your highlights even thicker/harder to see and print.

I shoot HP5 at 400, use an incident meter, and use normal development. I normally get plenty of detail in both shadow and highlight areas when printed. But just because it suits my preferences and system, doesn't mean it will suit yours.

IMO finding the EI that works best for most of us is about calibrating "us" to "the system we use".

For example, on the rare occasions where I use a reading of reflected light there is the distinct possibility I will misjudge the shadow point and under expose which normally makes my life tougher in the darkroom. So I tend to add a little extra exposure to make sure I get a usable negative if I have to use a spot meter reading. With an incident meter reading I have no such need. This is just one of the many variables.

wombat2go
8-Aug-2012, 05:14
Hi, Zone
I am starting out with my new Graflex using 120 6 by 9 of HP5+ but so far I am stopped because I can't get the film onto the tank spiral!

I use HP5+ on 35mm and at iso 560 to 800, in Ilford Microphen for 420 to 510 seconds
Here is a raw neg projected onto M43 sensor by a Rogonar S 50 mm
https://www.box.com/s/e46d3cab8a72bd33f2e0

For digital image, I invert the image and apply a reciprocal gamma correction of 0.75 for the HP5+ to linearize it ready for the tiff.
Menlo Park
https://www.box.com/s/03b4455c492e5f2f93ca

Following is scan of a 150 by 220 wet paper print on Ilford Multigrade Pearl exposed at f/5.6 and 45 seconds with the Rogonar S 50 mm
In this one, some areas are black and some are full white - maybe partially a brightness range limitation of this paper.
https://www.box.com/s/498c8e89a503a36ff456

IanG
8-Aug-2012, 05:19
Those EI's sound about right for HP5 in ID-11/D76 if you want good shadow detail, I find I getter fuller speed with Pyrocat HD and have been very pleased with the results over ther past 4 or 5 years.

Meters, shutters and the way we work differ so it's about finding what works best for yourself as Mark says.

Ian

zone
8-Aug-2012, 06:08
@Mark Barendt
I'm seeing the negative and I did a print to be sure of what I see in the negative.
i take reflect measure, but no spot (i'm searching an spot lightmeter; now i use a minolta flash meter IV).
My experience is also an valuation with tmax 400, i've found that tmax 400 is a bit "aggressive" into shadows with exposure ie 400.
I course find the proper treatment if I want to use hp5.


@wombat2go
i'ev seen your negative and is good ngative for me, i found there are good shadows and good light for me. My negative test is much light in the shadows and highlights
But microphen allows to push the film, so I think you can push a 560/800 without problems ie.


@vinny
i printed a test for to be sure of the negative, taking as a base grade paper 2 or 3, but if negative is clear, the print will be black.

zone
8-Aug-2012, 06:27
yes.. ok ... quote IanG and Mark.

I now feel more normal. ;) :D :o
I'm recently entered the world of 4x5, it's great, but with a large negative everything is more visible. Ex: I take picture to a landscape with a tree in the foreground (sorry for my english; is foreground correct ?), if there are no shadows, the 4x5 is strongly evident, is not the same with 35mm or MF.
I do not know if I explained well what I mean
I hope that my argument is correct and not an impression !

Mark Barendt
8-Aug-2012, 06:28
Instead of using your meter to get reflected readings I'd suggest using it to get incident readings for a start.

zone
8-Aug-2012, 06:34
I have never tried or pyrocat pyrocat hd ... but soon I will.
IanG, there is a specific formula you use to prepare it?
Or buy it already prepared?
thanks

UlbabraB
8-Aug-2012, 07:42
Ciao zone,

You can buy Photographer's formulary pre-mixed Pyrocat-HD from Westernphoto in Italy, altough I prefer to mix it from scratch (I'm using the -MC variant). You can find the formulas and other references here: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com.

saluti da Ferrara :-)

Brian Ellis
8-Aug-2012, 07:48
After doing film speed tests I rated HP5+ at 200. For a while I used to make two exposures of everything, one at 200 and one at 400. Most of the time either would have been perfectly printable so I abandoned that practice and used 200, which I preferred to ensure shadow detail. You can always (or usually) control the highlights with development. That was with D76 1-1.