Where and when in Yosemite please?

[newmoon2night]

We are in the UK and starting planning a trip for next year hopefully.
Two of us and would like to self cater, relax, enjoy the scenery, take photographs, draw and paint, and do reasonably gentle walks (up to about 5 miles - but not major hikes). Not wanting really hot weather, infact comfortable to cool temperatures are preferable, as long as it doesn't coincide with a rainy season!
AND at all costs avoid the seasons when the mosquitoes and biting insects are about!
Cost is a consideration, so not major expensive please. Simple comfortable accommodation preferred rather than five star luxury.
Apart from the above we are flexible.
Can anyone advise please:
What part should we be looking at? What time of year? What airport should we be looking at flying to? Any recommendations for accommodation?
Best guide book or website for planning?
Thanks for all advice.

[Drew Wiley]

Yosemite Valley is nice in Spring, Fall, and Winter, depending what kind of weather and colors you are seeking. The upper parts of the park like Tuolumne Mdws are road-accessible only in Summer and early Fall (till the end of Oct). Late June thru July is the
ordinary mosquito season in the high country, though it can vary from year to year.
It's a fairly easy drive over Tioga Pass to see a bit of the adjacent eastern Sierra, including Mono Lake, and Oct can be a wonderful month for aspen and other fall color.
Temperatures vary largely with the considerable altitude changes involved. I'd avoid Yosemite Valley itself in Summer - it's crowded, hot, and smoggy.

[Drew Wiley]

(To continue)... If seeing the waterfalls full is a prority, I'd recommend March. And that is
when the lower hill country west of the Park can have incredible wildflower displays in the
canyons. But Spring is our rainy season - waterfalls and flowers both need it! I woudn't
be surprised if Yosemite Falls dried up entirely later this summer because it's a drought year. Last year was just the opposite. So it might be lovely or damp in March. October
will bring a mix of wonderful clear days and often mild snowfalls up high, putting a nice lace
on the peaks. But if you come, bring clothing suitable for a variety of weather conditions.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Weather varies from year to year so much that one June or September may have snowfall closing roads, and the next year either can have 100˚F temps and a forest fire closing the park. Heck, the altitude varies so much that I've driven in through El Portal where it was over 100˚ on the same day it was in low 50˚'s atop Tioga Pass-- an hour apart.
Should you go from October through March you may find more interesting light for photography, though you'd need to remain flexible in your plans once on the ground.
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) is approximately 4 hours drive from Yosemite Valley.

[Drew Wiley]

Ivan - there's no way anybody is going to make Yos in 4 hrs from SFO, not even close,
esp if they're not used to steep winding roads. I could probably do it late at nite from here on the East Bay if I was driving like a bat out of hell, but getting out of the Airport, renting a car, getting thru Frisco and across the bridge, are all pretty time-consuming in themselves. For all practical purposes, it's an all-day drive. Flying into Oakland Airport could save time in that respect, but traffic is still pretty bad till one exits the Bay Area.
However, there is little sense taking a second flight to any of the Valley airports. Probably
no time saved that way, unless it was to Mammoth airport on the east side, which would
probably be pricey and with limited car rental, if any.

[Vaughn]

One can have a variety of weather in mid-April, very nice. Week-days before Memorial Day (end of May) are usually not too bad people-wise, but one generally can not get over the pass yet...or drive up to Glacier Point.

[ericpmoss]

When I went, I flew Southwest Air into S.F. b/c they check two bags w/o extra fees. Then I took Amtrak from downtown SF right to Yosemite Lodge for $68 round-trip. It's 7-8 hours, but I didn't have to drive, and got to meet some nice Yosemite employees who told me about all sorts of good hikes and so on. If you go before Labor Day, the buses between Yosemite and Tuolumne are generally running, so you can see both places w/o hassle. OTOH, you don't get to stop every place you might want, and as others have said, it can be crowded in August, and the photos aren't as dramatic as when the weather gets harsher.

My next hiking trip will likely be the High Sierras camp circle, where they provide shelter and food, and I just have to hike and take photos. Barring scary critters, I think it would be AMAZING.

[John Kasaian]

I take my family to Yosemite in early October---the weather is generally great, crowds are light, mosquitos gone, wildlife is out gathering food for winter. The downside is the Merced is too low for rafting and some of the guest services start shutting down for winter.

The high sierra camps would be a great opportunity to see the back country but reservations are on a lottery---they may be closed by October anyway---the Yosemite website would have the details.

If you don't mind taking sleeping bags, the Housekeeping Camp might be an option---plus if you rent a stove and cook set you can cook you own meals which will certainly cut down on expense. If you don't want to take sleeping bags, I think they also rent bedding as each tent has a queen--it would be woth it to inquire. Make sure you get a river view cabin if you go that route.

Another option are the tent cabins at Camp Curry---no campfires and no cooking in the cabins, but you do get a nice wooden floor, a comfortable bed and the chow at Curry is good but kind of pricey.

By all means spend some time outside the Valley at Tuolumne Meadows, Tioga, and Glacier Point. Hike the Mist trail. Enjoy it all!

[Drew Wiley]

Renting a car for a wk or two isn't all that expensive. And I personally pity those herds who pile into tour buses and truck right into El Portal. There is so much to see in route.
Some of the Valley orchard country is really beautiful (though hot midsummer), and the
gold country in the lower hills is for me a bigger draw than Yosemite itself. It's so nice to
just stop when you want, or to explore some little side road, or some little town like Knight's Ferry or Chinese Camp. There's a lot more to the area than just the stereotypical
Yosmite Valley stuff. Plus a car and some sleeping bags would potentially let you do a little
camping outside the park, or more convently get to adjacent attractions like Mono Lake or
the numerous side canyons off Hwy 395. I suppose Yosemite Valley per se needs to be on
eveyone's "checklist" to see, but it's not all that far from many other things equally enticing.

[Harley Goldman]

If you want waterfalls, then mid to late April is probably the best bet. The meadows are not looking too good that early and the trees might still be bare. My favorite time is the end of October. The oaks, maples and dogwoods are changing colors, the crowds are tame and the place has a very peaceful feel to it. The days should be mild and the evenings a little cool. There is always a chance of snow, but not very likely. It is generally far too warm. The waterfalls will likely be dry and the river low, though.

[Drew Wiley]

Indeed! Tioga Pass generally closes the first major snowfall after Oct, so if you have a car
and a couple extra days, a magical loop trip that time of year would be over Tioga, down
to Lee Vining and Brigdeport, back over Sonora Pass, where you close the loop with Hwy
120 just below the town of Sonora. Given the various changes in elevation, you're likely
to encounter wonderful aspen color somewhere along the route, as well as turning oaks
etc in Yos Valley ... and as Harley noted, no crowds! Or if you prefer to drift a little to the
south of LeeVining, you can catch the view of the Ritter Range from the Mammoth Mtn
ski area, or hike a bit up McGee Canyon or Convict Lk, to see more dramatic peaks than possible
in Yosemite Park itself.

[RichardSperry]

February is when the Horsetail Firefall occurs.

It's cool then of course. If I were coming that far, I would shoot for that.

There are modest accommodations right outside the park.

It's a great time for photographs of the area, and all the key cliche spots. Rent a 4 wheel drive, with mud and snow tires, the roads are kept passable, but still have snow and ice on the roads. Less need for chains with the right rig.

The park is very beautiful that time of year. No rain and no bugs either.

[Jim Graves]

I like October also ... great colors and reflections on the Merced River.

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

I don't recall anything being reasonably priced in California, or Yosemite for that matter!

[Jim Graves]

I don't recall anything being reasonably priced in California, or Yosemite for that matter!

Camp 4 in Yosemite ... $5/nite ... and you can stay up to 30 nights (only 7 in the summer) ... It's within walking distance of the Food Court across from the Lodge or walk the other direction to El Capitan or go South 300 yards to the Merced River ... free shuttle to the showers and chow hall at Curry village ... just bring a decent tent, a sleeping pad, and a warm bag and you get the camaraderie of the other campers to boot. It pretty much has vacancies from October thru mid-April. See LINK (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/camp4.htm)

The Lodge also runs specials in the winter ... November thru February ... get on their mailing list ... my 3 brothers and I stayed in two very comfortable ... and warm ... Lodge rooms for $89/nite per room (that's $44.50 each each per brother per nite) ... or about $150 apiece total for three nites this past February. It was a great trip. Falls were flowing like crazy wth the spray freezing to the granite walls during the night ... beautiful low winter sun angles every day and very light visitor traffic.

[Lon Overacker]

Newmoon,

Along with Drew and some others, I consider myself a YOsemite "local" but still just about 3hrs away. ;-) Reading your criteria, in my opinion that leaves you with 2 seasonal options, spring and fall. Winter "can" be "incomparable" but it is also the most unpredictable time of year and if I were traveling half way around the globe I wouldn't take the risk. It could be dry, brown and ugly OR you could be locked out when they close the roads due to heavy snow, falling/failing trees, etc.. Summer is out due to the crowds, heat - not a fun time in Yosemite.

This leaves spring and fall with distinct advantages and disadvantages for both.

Spring: If you want to enjoy the waterfalls, spring is your time. As Harley mentioned March/early April may be too early for greenery in Yosemite Valley proper, although the Merced Canyon, flowers, redbud, etc are usually exceptional in March. Crowds, Beginning the end of April and certainly the 1st week of May the crowds start building. Certainly our Mother's Day weekend (May 14? strike me down for not knowing) can be a zoo. Very end of April, 1st week of May offers the best Yosemite Valley has to offer in spring. Dogwood in bloom, Black oaks beginning to leaf out, Big leaf maple, bold and beautiful. Plenty of water even in a drought year like we had this year. Upper elevations, Tioga Pass, Glacier point often, but no guarentees, open during this time. Getting access to the high country would be highly recommended, especially if your stay is more than a few days.

Fall: autumn in Yosemite valley begins around the last week of October in to early November. Aside from winter, this is Yosemite's most quite time. The waterfalls likely to be dried up is the biggest risk if that's tops on your list. Autumn color in the valley isn't big and bold, but if you hit it right can have some spectacular color - although usually isolated, black oak, dogwood and various plants in the meadows. There will certainly be water in the Merced and for me this time of the year is just a wonderful time for hiking the valley loop trail, or just getting off the main road walking the woods along the base of the granite cliffs. Tioga/Glacier "may" still be open the end of October, although that's a crapshoot as well just like the opening in spring. For a historic look at the opening and closing of these roads check here (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tiogaopen.htm).

I would rate color and photography opportunities equal for both spring and fall. In summary, spring, more crowds, big water. Fall, less crowds, more quiet time, no waterfalls. Access to high country hit and miss for both.

Airport, Oakland is the closest, but SFO may get you the best price from the UK. DEFINITELY rent a car as you will want the freedom to go where and when you want.

Lodging. Yosemite Lodge or curry Village are relatively reasonable and modest accommodations. Check planning guide here (http://www.yosemitepark.com/plan-your-visit.aspx). Access to the park via car is best through Highway 140 out of Merced then Mariposa, El Portal then the valley proper through the Arch Rock entrance. Entrance fee $20 for a week. If staying outside of the park, El Portal has the closest lodging at the Valley View Lodge (great location directly on the Merced river - get a river room and hear the roar of the river all night.) Cedar lodge just about 5mi further away from the park. But from El Portal, it's 20min to the valley floor. Check reservations here (http://www.yosemiteresorts.us/). Lastly, there are any number of motels and modest accommodation in the town of Mariposa on Highway 140. It's a great drive to the Valley, about 45min. The Merced Canyon is fantastic very early spring.

Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Please to keep the forum posted on your plans and then when it's all said and down let us know how it went.

Lon

[Preston]

Lon pretty much sums it up in terms of conditions in The Valley and high country during the spring and fall. One caution, though: If you are hiking at the base of any of the walls during spring, keep your eyes and ears open for falling rock. With the water from melting snow loosening rocks, and the nightly freeze-thaw at the valley rim, rockfall is common. Be careful.

If you do get locked into a summer trip, pay a quick visit to the valley and then head to the high country. In the summer, I camp on the East Side (Mono Basin area) and make the drive up to the park over Tioga Pass. If you reserve early, you can get a hotel/motel room in Lee Vining. You can then enjoy the Yosemite country as well as Mono Lake and the East Side canyons. Late July and through August is a good time: You'll avoid the valley heat and crowds, and the bugs will be mostly gone.

Harley Goldman and I were on the East Side and Tuolumne Meadows areas during the third week of July. It was pretty nice--not too hot and there were few bugs. We hopped up to Saddlebag Lake (off of Hwy 120 east of Tioga Pass) and took the water taxi to the end of the lake. This puts you in perfect position to hike in the Ten Lakes Basin below North Peak ((12,242 ft.) and Mt. Conness (12,590 ft.) It is very beautiful Sierra High Country with several lakes and big granite peaks. Great pie and good coffee at the Saddlebag Lake Resort, btw. The resort has a web site that you can find here. (http://saddlebaglakeresort.com/) Another page gives the particulars for the water taxi. Highly recommended.

As you can see, there are quite a few Sierra Bums here who have the 'inside skinny' and are quite willing to help out. Let us know how your plans are shaping up.

--P

[Light Guru]

http://www.michaelfrye.com/yosemiteapp.html

Great app that gives you all the info you need I believe that it is also available in print form.

[John Kasaian]

The weather in the Sierras is as unpredictable as a baby's bottom, lol! I've been snowed on in July and August and I've driven over Tioga Pass on New Years Day.

[Preston]

The weather in the Sierras is as unpredictable as a baby's bottom, lol!

I thought that was Texas weather, but this works just as well.

I certainly agree with your statement, John. I got snowed on at Mount Whitney in July and I have driven over Sonora and Tioga passes in January. The best course is to keep an eye on forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes.

--P

[Drew Wiley]

Any day outing at the higher altitudes should be accompanied by a sweater, raincoat, and
water bottle. But extreme weather can be reasonably forecast in this day and age. The worst I remember was one August when my toothpaste literally froze in the middle of my
pack midday. Hwy 395 closed at the grade just above Biship due to snow. Four Japanese
climbers froze to death on El Cap. I was at 1200 ft myself, but when I got finally down into Bishop, I then headed for Death Valley, where I actually wore a jacket in summer! But
I don't expect to experience anything like that again! I'm a lot more worried about too much heat next week, and will probably have to do some of the hiking at night.

[John Kasaian]

I thought that was Texas weather, but this works just as well.

I certainly agree with your statement, John. I got snowed on at Mount Whitney in July and I have driven over Sonora and Tioga passes in January. The best course is to keep an eye on forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes.

--P

Fortuunately there is plenty to see and do no matter what the weather. Always have a flexible back up plan, especially when coming from as far away as the OP. If the crowds are heavy, make for Saddlebag Lake, Sonora Pass, Kings Canyon/Seqouia, Mono Lake, 395 or the June Lake Loop (even if the crowds aren't heavy these are great locations!) The Gold Country & foothills are usually glorious when the passes are snowed under. Tahoe will give you classic Sierra Granite within walking distance of your car if you know where to park and those passes are almost always open 'cause the casinos need $$$ and I-80 is mainstreet USA for truckers. Probably the worse case scenario for the YNP bound is flooding in the valley.
Not to scare anyone away, but theres just no reason for unexpected weather to spoil your vacation just stay flexible!

[Preston]

John's admonition to have a backup plan is right on, and the list of places he cited will provide lots of wonderful options. Being flexible is the rule du jour for the Sierra.

--P

[Leszek Vogt]

Yosemite is a wonderful place, but way popular and overrun with people. The upper areas (on Rte 120) and Tuolumne Meadows are not too bad yet. I presume you'll fly into SFO, though you could also fly (extra leg) into Fresno on a smaller commuter plane. If you don't wish to do tent camping, you could easily rent a van, make it cozy, and spend the nights in that. However, there is only one shower spot...and that's in the Valley at Curry Village. Personally I avoid the Valley (as stated above)...and if I was going to be there, it would be between 6-9AM when hardly anyone is out and about. Incidentally, that's good time for photos too (in the Summer). I've enjoyed all 4 seasons in the park over the last 40 yrs, even though I've experienced snow in July once. My fav time would probably be appx one to two weeks after schools start - I did something similar with Jasper/Banff and it worked wonderfully. There are several campgrounds in the upper region like Taramac Flats, White Wolf, etc, most however require reservations way ahead of time. Oh, you could stay at White Wolf's tent-like cabins and I believe you'll have access to the showers. No doubt you'll need reservations for that too. White Wolf also has a small restaurant if you don't wish to cook. Little warning about gasoline and its availability. When you reach the upper region, the nearest gas station also has a market, but check the hours of operation...I've seen them close rather early and forcing folks to drive additional 20 odd miles to fill up. Also, and keep this in mind, the gas will likely costs you less outside the park....I was there last July and paid 3.75/gallon in Fresno, while the station in the upper region was charging 4.60/gal.

That said, you can enjoy the upper region and if you still wish to veer into the Valley for hikes, photo opportunities, etc. you can still do so at will. If you have few extra days, you may want to drop into Sequoia/Kings Canyon...it's another wonderful park and thankfully not as popular as good ol Yos. Let us know how you make out.

Les