Pyro + Tmax

[Nasser]

When I started developing with Pyro Developer like PMK, along with it I started working with HP5+ instead of TMax films.. I do not know why! I think because I read that HP5+ would work best with pyro. After 2 years I run out of HP5+ and came back to Tmax 400, and develop with pyro. I was so pleased with the results! Tmax is a magic with the pyro! I notes that all my HP5+ negatives are low in contrast, and would not come close to the wonderful look of the Pt/pd print that made with Tmax negative. Now... what should I do with my 11x14 HP5+ to increase contrast in developing with Pyro PMK or Pyro-Max or Pyro-HD? is there is any 11x14 TMax400? Or any good alternative of 11x14 HP5+?
Any comments are welcome.

Nasser

[Daniel Stone]

develop the film longer to increase contrast.

11x14 TMax films are special-order, around $15-17k IIRC for an entire run, cut to your requested size. 11x14 Ilford is a standard size, at least in FP4+ and HP5+

-Dan

[Jay DeFehr]

Hi Nasser,

Yes, that staining developers work better with K-grain films than with CCG films is one of the many pyro myths. I don't think there's ever been a better film than TMY-2, whatever developer one uses. Regarding HP5+, it is capable of very high contrast when handled appropriately. If you're developing to a very high contrast for a UV process, like platinum, you need to expose less to compensate for the extended development, or your shadows will be too dense, resulting in decreased contrast. Also, depending on the developer you use, fog/ general stain can rob you of contrast. So, expose appropriately, and use a good developer, like 510-Pyro, that won't produce a lot of fog/general stain, and your HP5+ should give you excellent negatives for platinum.

[Gary Samson]

Hello Nasser,

You should be able to successfully use Pyro PMK with HP5+ 11x14 inch film for Palladium printing. I use a 16x20 inch tray for developing. If you are processing one sheet at a time, agitate 15 to 20 seconds each minute. Hutching's Pyro book recommends 16 minutes at 70 degrees for plus 1 development of HP5+ film which is where I would start for a negative to be printed in Palladium. You can reduce development 4% for each degree of temperature increase. Another developer that I can highly recommend is Sandy King's Pyrocat M developer, a variation of Pyrocat HD.

[Professional]

WOW, nice to see someone from UAE here.

Good luck with Pyro + film!!!

[photobymike]

Well .. look out for a skin reaction to the chemical ... i use rubber gloves... and take precautions not splash on your skin..... I use Tmax films because they scan well... Ektar Kodak color uses tabular grain also......i really like my chocolat negatives .....

[Nasser]

WOW, nice to see someone from UAE here.

Good luck with Pyro + film!!!
Yes! Thank you... I guess your are 3 hours away from my home! Good luck to you too!!

[Nasser]

Hello Nasser,

You should be able to successfully use Pyro PMK with HP5+ 11x14 inch film for Palladium printing. I use a 16x20 inch tray for developing. If you are processing one sheet at a time, agitate 15 to 20 seconds each minute. Hutching's Pyro book recommends 16 minutes at 70 degrees for plus 1 development of HP5+ film which is where I would start for a negative to be printed in Palladium. You can reduce development 4% for each degree of temperature increase. Another developer that I can highly recommend is Sandy King's Pyrocat M developer, a variation of Pyrocat HD.
I always agitate PMK without stopping 70 degrees, vigorously, but without stopping.. I have never get an even sky, not ones for over 7 shots, 8x10 and 8x20. I will try your advice.. thank you!

[Gary L. Quay]

You should also try PMK and T-Max 100.

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