Going to India for 3 weeks

[t0aster]

In December I will be going to India for 3 weeks through my university. I'm working on getting an itinerary/schedule, however, I do know that we are starting in New Delhi and working our way east and south with stops for sure at the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort in Agra. I've been photographing for nigh on 6 or 7 years now, but I've never done any major traveling and have thus not traveled with any decent amount of equipment. I've wanted to travel outside the states for a long time now and I'm not going to miss this opportunity to visit a place as beautiful and interesting as India.

I've currently got a Nikon d50 (nikkor 50/1.8, tamron 28-70, tamron 70-300) and just recently I picked up a Cambo SC on ebay (180 schneider symmar-s). The d50 takes fine pictures quality-wise, especially with the 50/1.8 which is a wonderful lens. But it doesn't do well in the way of dynamic range that I want for color so I tend to turn most shot monochrome black and white. I've taken a few shots, have 4 film holders in the fridge waiting to be developed, with the SC -- which is actually quite fun to use. Using the GG to compose and focus is such a change from the tiny viewfinder on the nikon. Unfortunately, I don't think it's going to feasible to lug the SC over to India and haul it around with me, the tripod is also fairly bulky and not something I would want to haul around with me.

As a student I don't have much in the way of funds available to buy the equipment I would love to take. But I'm might use some available loan money to pick up something new to me stuff.

I've been thinking about picking up a Mamiya 7ii, though I've never used a rangefinder before, with a wider lens and one of the longer ones for general shots, would mostly probably use bw but I would also like to do some color 120 with it. I've also considered picking up a med-format slr instead, but I've never handled one before and I don't know if they're too bulky/heavy/etc to use for just walking around.

I've also thought about investing in a newer dslr, probably a d700, as I could use it for both black and white and color simultaneously. But investing in new digi stuff makes my head hurt as I'm sure next year some new camera will be out in a year or two that makes it seem like a hunk-of-junk, though I know the d700 takes wonderful pictures, especially compared to my d50. Also, aside from my 50/1.8 the glass I have is so/so and I would want to invest in some decent glass to take with me, no sense in taking a nicer camera and using junk glass.

Now, to 4x5. I know it might be a pain, but I think leaving the 4x5 behind completely would totally cause me remorse, especially as a photography student, though I don't know if they've had 4x5 tagged along on this trip before, but the woman that is heading it up said I'd have time at the larger sights to take pictures with 4x5 if I needed. I'm not too sure about what to do here. Again, getting a nice field camera would be nice, but I don't know if I could find something in my budget, though it seems it would probably be cheaper than investing in new digi equipment.

So, I would like to hear from people with experience in India or just traveling in general. Would a 120 slr be okay or should I try to find a rf like the Mamiya 7? What are your thoughts on using digi instead? Should I try to off my sc and invest in a field camera (I'd prefer one with the most movements available), or should I just trade it for a comparable speed/crown/bush graphic?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

-David

[Brian C. Miller]

Now, to 4x5. I know it might be a pain, but I think leaving the 4x5 behind completely would totally cause me remorse ...

What about the Harman Titan 4 x5 Pinhole (http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1172566-Harman-Titan-4x5-Pinhole-Camera-Kit?cat_id=2203) kit? The camera is sturdy and very light, and the pinhole image has been called "too sharp" by some. With a film holder, it weighs 15oz.

[Ari]

I'd take whichever camera I use the most and feel the most comfortable with.
The priority is making pictures, right?

[brianam]

The north where you will be is very crowded. Delhi in particular. keep that in mind.

I was in India for three weeks this February and brought a Mamiya 7II and one lens. I think it was the 80mm. Easy argument could have been made for the 65+150, but I chose to go lighter since it was not a photo trip for me.
If i were going back for a similar length of time, would bring the Mamiya again, one or two lenses, and add a good DSLR (e.g. a used D700).
If for a much longer period of time (months) would drop the MF for a lightweight 4x5 like a Nagaoka, perhaps 2 lenses, & compact carbon fiber tripod. and a trustworthy driver. :)

as always, YMMV.

[B.S.Kumar]

This is going to be your first trip to India. Take in the sights and sounds, and leave the 4x5 for next time. Take the camera you have. It's a fine camera, and if you feel like spending some money, buy a lens or two.

Kumar

[Steven Tribe]

Since I was last in India, the population has grown by another 200 Million!

Townlife and bustle is unlike anywhere else I have been - there is a pressure of crowds, like it was last minute shopping for Christmas, everywhere, everyday!
All transport (road and rail) is much slower than you are used too.

This is one country I won't "do" without have colour film packed away - it is almost like the women have dressed up ready for your arrival!

I personally would use a "wedding set" medium format in town (Mamiya TLR) with WLF. Outside urban areas is a much more OK area for LF.

With LF you will be a target for boys in the nearest 200 meters who like to be entertained.

[vijaylff]

You might find this writeup about LF in India helpful. Although it was written 7 years ago:

http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/india/indiaLF.html

[t0aster]

I'd take whichever camera I use the most and feel the most comfortable with.
The priority is making pictures, right?

This is going to be your first trip to India. Take in the sights and sounds, and leave the 4x5 for next time. Take the camera you have. It's a fine camera, and if you feel like spending some money, buy a lens or two.

The priority of the trip is absolutely making photographs. The trip will ultimately provide 4cr and count as an advanced studio course. I'm very comfortable with the d50 and that does mean quite a bit on going someplace quite foreign to my native surroundings. However, I would like to have a nicer tool to capture images with. While something nicer won't mean I take better photos, obviously, but the way 120/4x5 film renders images in a so much more pleasing way than the d50. Even a newer, nicer dslr such as the d700 looks quite a bit better wrt image quality.


The north where you will be is very crowded. Delhi in particular. keep that in mind.

I was in India for three weeks this February and brought a Mamiya 7II and one lens. I think it was the 80mm. Easy argument could have been made for the 65+150, but I chose to go lighter since it was not a photo trip for me.
If i were going back for a similar length of time, would bring the Mamiya again, one or two lenses, and add a good DSLR (e.g. a used D700).
If for a much longer period of time (months) would drop the MF for a lightweight 4x5 like a Nagaoka, perhaps 2 lenses, & compact carbon fiber tripod. and a trustworthy driver. :)

as always, YMMV.

In the cities I think something like the M7ii would be perfect. At some of the larger sights and museums we, supposedly, will be allowed in either before or after hours so we'll have more space and time to observe/draw/paint/photograph, we'll also be accompanied by art history professors from local universities. So I think that 4x5 would be ideal for those times when I'd have more time and more solitude to compose and expose.



Since I was last in India, the population has grown by another 200 Million!

Townlife and bustle is unlike anywhere else I have been - there is a pressure of crowds, like it was last minute shopping for Christmas, everywhere, everyday!
All transport (road and rail) is much slower than you are used too.

This is one country I won't "do" without have colour film packed away - it is almost like the women have dressed up ready for your arrival!

I personally would use a "wedding set" medium format in town (Mamiya TLR) with WLF. Outside urban areas is a much more OK area for LF.

With LF you will be a target for boys in the nearest 200 meters who like to be entertained.

I hadn't considered a tlr, but it's a good idea. And those areas outside the urban areas are what I wanted the 4x5 for, though if I have it along I may be tempted occasionally to use it in the city. And I can't even imagine going without someway to capture in colour, especially when we visit the spice markets.


You might find this writeup about LF in India helpful. Although it was written 7 years ago:

http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/india/indiaLF.html

Thanks, that's what interesting. I really do hope I can end up with a way to take at least a small 4x5 with.

[Frank Petronio]

The simple Fuji 6x9 rangefinders are every bit as sharp as the more expensive and complicated Mamiya 7 cameras. It think they are the best quality/value/practical travel cameras.

[John Kasaian]

My last trip to India was in 1988 (sigh) so what I'm telling you is probably out of date:
#1 DON'T DRINK THE BEER! It contains formaldhyde as a preservative and will make you sick as a dog.
#2 DON'T EAT THE CORN FLAKES! Its gross served with warm milk.
#3 Take along a bottle of Scotch should you need to "grease the wheels"( if you know what i mean.)
#4 Take along a package of US style toilet paper and give it to the Marines at the US Consulate, they'll be your friends for life!
#5 Respect the dignity of the poor. Really.
#6 Keep away from the monkeys.
#7 Hire a guide (esecially the guys with beards and turbans)
#8 Get your malaria tablets in India. The strains you find in India laughes at USA malaria tablets.
#9 Don't expect to convert your Indian money back into dollars when leaving the country---they won't do it and they won't let you take it out of the country either.
#10 Have a great trip! its a beautiful country with beautiful people.

[B.S.Kumar]

If you're determined to take along a larger format camera, a Mamiya TLR with interchangeable lenses would be a good idea and for 4x5, a field camera like the Wista/Toyo/Horseman, and perhaps, a 120 back as well would be easier to carry. Just remember that apart from Delhi (Mahatta & Co.) and the other metros, it will be difficult/impossible to find film and professional processing.

Kumar

[Steven Tribe]

"#1 DON'T DRINK THE BEER! It contains formaldhyde as a preservative and will make you sick as a dog.

Not my experience - Kingfisher is certainly OK

#2 DON'T EAT THE CORN FLAKES! Its gross served with warm milk.

Don't know

#3 Take along a bottle of Scotch should you need to "grease the wheels"( if you know what i mean.)

This is very doubtful advice - given security systems in flights now. Remember many of the non-hindu residents take their religion seriously. It is a bit like the old system of taking stockings and jeans into the Eastern Block in the 60's!

#4 Take along a package of US style toilet paper and give it to the Marines at the US Consulate, they'll be your friends for life!

Stay well away from official US offices. Use the soft toilet paper yourself.

#5 Respect the dignity of the poor. Really.

Yes.

#6 Keep away from the monkeys.

Yes. And from the many religious festivals - observe at a safe distance.

#7 Hire a guide (esecially the guys with beards and turbans)

While Sikhs have a good reputation, there are many helpful Indians around of all religions.

#8 Get your malaria tablets in India. The strains you find in India laughes at USA malaria tablets.

Don't know about this. Copy/Counterfeit products exist and most/all malaria profylactics require dossage before travel.

#9 Don't expect to convert your Indian money back into dollars when leaving the country---they won't do it and they won't let you take it out of the country either.

Yes currency exchange was still a nightmare in the 1990's anyway."


But well worth the trouble!

[B.S.Kumar]

"#1 don't drink the beer! It contains formaldhyde as a preservative and will make you sick as a dog.

not my experience - kingfisher is certainly ok

Kingfisher is good, and Heineken and Foster's are also available. But don't fly kingfisher airlines :mad:

#2 don't eat the corn flakes! Its gross served with warm milk.

don't know

But definitely eat the parathas :)

#3 take along a bottle of scotch should you need to "grease the wheels"( if you know what i mean.)

this is very doubtful advice - given security systems in flights now. Remember many of the non-hindu residents take their religion seriously. It is a bit like the old system of taking stockings and jeans into the eastern block in the 60's!

Not necessary.

#4 take along a package of us style toilet paper and give it to the marines at the us consulate, they'll be your friends for life!

stay well away from official us offices. Use the soft toilet paper yourself.

That too is available!

#5 respect the dignity of the poor. Really.

yes.

Should be a given.

#6 keep away from the monkeys.

yes. And from the many religious festivals - observe at a safe distance.

You won't be going at the more rambunctious festival times so you should be okay.


#7 hire a guide (esecially the guys with beards and turbans)

while sikhs have a good reputation, there are many helpful indians around of all religions.

Sikhs have a deservedly good reputation, but you'll find most Indians helpful. Just be respectful, and speak slowly.In any case, since you're part of a group, I'm sure your hsts will take care of you.

#8 get your malaria tablets in india. The strains you find in india laughes at usa malaria tablets.

don't know about this. Copy/counterfeit products exist and most/all malaria profylactics require dossage before travel.

Don't know about that - I got malaria when I went to the US from Japan in 2006.

#9 don't expect to convert your indian money back into dollars when leaving the country---they won't do it and they won't let you take it out of the country either.

yes currency exchange was still a nightmare in the 1990's anyway."

That's no longer the case. You can just walk into a bank/Thomas Cook/American Express/Western Union/licensed money exchanger with your passport and be done in five minutes.

but well worth the trouble!

Most certainly!



Kumar

[joelio]

Hello all -

Be prepared to have your film scanned through the x-ray terminal at every security checkpoint - I am talking about every museum, temple, mall, large store, fort, hotel, etc. Hand checks are sometimes available, more often when you're offering a "tribute".

Don't be surprised if being part of a school trip doesn't spare you from the constant security checks.

When I was in India last I resorted to packing all of my film in a transparent zip-lock bag and simply walking through security with it in my hand or pants pockets. You're exposed to way less radiation than your scanned items. Only carry film for the day to avoid repetitive scanning of your film. Always look like you know exactly what you're doing.

I don't want to hijack this thread and turn it into a "film scanning / fogging" exercise, though don't be surprised that things are very, very different over there. If you are shooting black and white, it is probably less of an issue than color.

Have fun! You're going to love it. I am planning a return trip myself - "wedding season" for my in-laws is rapidly approaching. I swore off photographing weddings, but one in India? Maybe!

[DennisD]

India is a fabulous place to visit and photograph. I've been there many times on business.

Take a good quality camera and lenses you're comfortable with. DSLR and medium formats are ideal. The urban areas are crowded and fast moving so a view camera is not ideal, especially on a first trip. While there may be moments when you wish you had 4x5, you will get what you want especially with medium format unless you always need movements.

Not yet mentioned, be cautious of the food you eat and water (only bottled). Better restaurants and hotels are fine -but NEVER take food from the street vendors or any non- standard source - despite how tempting it might be. Your stomach will not be conditioned and you will easily get bacterial digestive upsets. Believe me, it's no fun and can ruin a wonderful trip.

As someone mentioned before, even if you're mostly a b&w photographer, be sure to take color film - you will not regret it.

You will have a great time and return with remarkable photos.

[joelio]

And one more thing (there is always one more thing, right?) - don't be surprised if you attract large crowds whenever you take your camera out. Being a westerner will garner lots of attention as is, but being a westerner with a big camera will make a lot of curious friends very quickly. Don't be surprised if people try to look through your prism when setting up a camera or even stick their heads under the dark cloth.

[mortensen]

I travelled nine weeks in India alone in the fall of 2010 shooting 4x5 exclusively, and in the broad perspective I experienced very few problems. Carrying the gear in the hot and humid climate will probably present you with bigger troubles than the crowds. As it has already been remarked by several, the cities are packed, transport even more so, food - and especially water - can bring you down, but the thing to really mark is that you and your belongings are going to be quite safe considering the extreme differences between rich and poor. Few other places on earth will let you walk around carrying what could represent years of earnings for the majority of people you cross in the streets - without having to fear for your own safety.

preaching aside, ahem, my 4x5 did get stolen - but at least it was in an old fashioned train scam by a well dressed crook, haha :D. After a couple of pretty stressful days, Kumar hooked me up with a friend of his in Mumbai who sold me his old, but well kept, Linhof Color (thanks again, Kumar). All in all I lost only four days before I was back shooting. Although people will be curious, gather around you and peep under the dark cloth, I really wouldn't worry about bringing your 4x5. I worked in Mumbai's airport slums, Delhi's railway slums, on building sites and in outskirt areas in both Chandigarh, Ahmedabad, Jodhpur, Delhi and Mumbai. The smell of garbage will harm you more than the locals, really. The worst I encountered was a bunch of kids throwing onions and pebbles at me and an old - probably disturbed - lady hitting me with a stick. Within the margins of acceptable, I'd say. Traffic will be your biggest hazard, though, no matter what camera you bring.

Treat people with dignity rather than suspicion, avoid anything containing unboiled water (salads, ice cubes etc), have a close eye on your belongings on train rides... (!) and remember, that train journeys means x-ray scanners. I survived with no x-ray damage even though my film got scanned a least eight times. I might have been lucky?

Enjoy it - it will be great and intense!

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