New to LF, seeking advice on antique 8x10

[AngelinaM]

74628

Hello, crossposting here as recommended by members of another /p/hotography board. I am an absolute beginner (digital kid) but would thoroughly appreciate any advice and resources y'all could throw my way, and am dedicated to learning how to operate this now that it is within my grasp!

I work at this high-end antique/vintage store, and we recently got this 30s/40s 8x10 LF camera in. The guy we got it from (reputable dealer who we buy from frequently) said it was working as recently as last year with minimal light leaks. The owners of the store said I could have the camera free of charge provided I use it to shoot some ads for them first. whoopee.

I've googled around extensively, but there's so much historical stuff rather than any operational information. I'm not very experienced with film, but I figure this would be a great a time as any to learn.

Does anyone have advice on operating and maintaining a camera like this? Any advice on where to get film, and what kind would be best? Resources on how to shoot with antique large format cameras? Anything is appreciated.

The front element. Ilex Paragon Anastigmat, F4.5, Series S, made in Rochester

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Light meter. Others have advised I should get a new one because the selenium may have degraded.

74630

[Jay DeFehr]

Score! Others will chime in with accurate info, but it looks to me like a Burke and James monorail view camera, and that's a very nice lens, too! You need a film holder (or several), and you're in business! There are lots of detailed guides for operating a camera like this, but the broad strokes are:

load film into holder in complete darkness
open lens shutter
focus by racking the front or back forward or backwards, as necessary
close lens shutter
set aperture and shutter speed and cock shutter
insert film holder
remove film holder dark slide
release shutter
replace film holder dark slide

repeat 1,000 times

Yay! Welcome!

[AngelinaM]

Thanks much for the tips Jay! Looking forward to getting to know my 8x10/this place. Thanks for putting a name to the camera as well, it's obviously very useful in the course of googleing the basic how-tos that I now know what I'm shooting with.

Forgot to mention, I am also wondering about developing. I'm not really at a place (financially... spatially) that I can set up a darkroom right now. Are there any good developing companies that I could outsource to for the time being?

[Corran]

If you outsource 8x10 you'll be paying a ton...I wouldn't go down that route just yet. I would highly recommend first buying a BTZS 8x10-sized tube. With this you'll be able to develop your own film mostly in daylight. You could also make your own out of PVC. Anyway, it's really easy to dev 8x10 with one of these, even in a small half-bath or whatever.

If you're up for the challenge (having not developed other films) you can get a load of 8x10 x-ray film for really cheap, and experiment for months without spending boatloads of money on film. I get mine from cxsonline. $27 gets you 100 sheets of Fuji Green X-ray film. If you check out my blog in my signature you'll find lots of examples of images I've taken on this film. It scratches really easy though. But for learning it's great.

[Jay DeFehr]

Angelina,

You could be up and running for under $100, including film, if you go the X-ray route. I would recommend the slightly more expensive single sided stuff, as the two-sided stuff is too delicate for a newcomer to work with. Get yourself a film holder, film, tray, a red light, some chemicals, and go for it! We'll walk you through it when the time comes. Look in the X-ray threads for links to the single sided film.

There's a lot to learn, but you can do it as you go! Have fun!

[Frank Petronio]

Un huh don't let it get too complicated too fast... http://www.4photolab.com Edgar Praus will process your film properly and you get what you pay for.

I'd read as much of the front end of this website (not this forum but the articles - http://www.largeformatphotography.info) as possible, then maybe find a local geeky large format photographer to assist you. 8x10 is expensive, perhaps a smaller 35mm film camera would work to get you started with using film, then you could move up to the XXXL size after you get the hang of it.

What you have to appreciate here is that the geeks will have you setting up a darkroom and buying all sorts of crap before you even know what you're doing. Finding a peer will really shorten the learning curve and failure rate!

[Richard Rankin]

Minimal light leaks? That means the bellows have pinholes and the seller knew it, I'd say. Take the back off, put it in a dark room, put a flashlight inside of it and turn it on. You should see no light at all from the corners of the extended bellows.

Richard

[Jay DeFehr]

Un huh don't let it get too complicated too fast... What you have to appreciate here is that the geeks will have you setting up a darkroom and buying all sorts of crap before you even know what you're doing.

Like a 35mm camera, for instance.:rolleyes:

[John Kasaian]

Light leaks will be a problem. Do an inspecin in "a" dark room with a flashlight as others recommend. Leaks is trouble. If they are pinholes on the corners you can patch them with various inexpensive compounds or even gaffer's tape and be good to go.

Check the shutter at different speeds to see...uhhh....listen whats going on. if it sounds like it's firing at the same speed on widely different settings you'll likely need to ship the lens off for a "cla."

You'll need film holders---I'd recommend at least three to start with. Used wooden Kodaks and plastic Liscos are what I use. Agfas are good too. A top notch dealer like Midwest will stand behind what they sell---of course you can find bargains on eBay but its also a safe bet that you'll waste money on a lot of dogs in the process(and the frustration that goes with it!) Another option is checking the for sale forum here for some usable film holders, if you're patient.

Freestyle Arista.edu Ultra (Fomapan) is a good quality, inexpensive film to learn on.
Have fun!

[AngelinaM]

Un huh don't let it get too complicated too fast... http://www.4photolab.com Edgar Praus will process your film properly and you get what you pay for.

8x10 is expensive, perhaps a smaller 35mm film camera would work to get you started with using film, then you could move up to the XXXL size after you get the hang of it.
I actually do have experience and know the basics of using a film SLR. I've got this old Nikkormat that used to be my dad's and used it pretty frequently until I got way digital for work.

One of my ex-professors actually reccommended Edgar Praus in an email last night. In the interest of simplicity and tackling only one new thing at a time, I'm probably going to start by sending things off to him. When I get the hang of using the camera properly, I'll begin exploring options for a rudimentary darkroom setup.


Minimal light leaks? That means the bellows have pinholes and the seller knew it, I'd say. Take the back off, put it in a dark room, put a flashlight inside of it and turn it on. You should see no light at all from the corners of the extended bellows.
Richard

He actually demonstrated this for us when we bought it (like I said, good dealer.) It was 2 miniscule pinholes on the corners in the middle of the bellows. Gaffers tape for now, I think? My employers said they also would not mind a small amount of leakage for the ads, because they're an antique store and that would make the photo all the more antique-y.



You'll need film holders---I'd recommend at least three to start with. Used wooden Kodaks and plastic Liscos are what I use. Agfas are good too.

(Fomapan) is a good quality, inexpensive film to learn on.
Have fun!
Would there be any reason not to go with the BnW Ilford stuff on B&H? Looks cheap and has good reviews. Thanks much for the advice on film holders, I've begin shopping around and those look like good bets.

[Frank Petronio]

Fix the bellows from the inside, not the outside... for practical purposes you can usually just drape your darkcloth over it while you shoot.

[Jim Jones]

Learning film photography with an 8x10 is a little like learning to drive a car with a Ferrari. Unless there is a particular need for very high quality photographs, a smaller film camera like the Nikkormat would do better. Learning to make those high quality photographs takes time, effort, and money. A modest digital camera might do as well for the immediate image requirements, and be more practical. The 8x10 would better be used for creative work over a lifetime. As for the pinholes, I fix that in cameras with a fabric lining by scrubbing black liquid acrylic artists paint into the corners of the extended bellows. A soft toothbrush works well for this. Don't let any thickness build up. Let it dry well before collapsing the bellows. Images that show light leaks are not a a sign of antique photography, they just indicate inept technique. Some older lenses treasured by large format photographers do create a vintage look. This site has much information on such matters.

The Weston Master III and preceeding models are among my favorite meters. As you were advised, its selenium cell may have deteriorated. Many have. A rough test is to meter a sheet of white paper in full sunlight with the hinged grid closed over the selenium cell. The needle should read almost full scale. Another potential problem is an unbalanced armature. An electrical-mechanical instrument so sensitive that light can directly operate the needle is necessarily delicate, and unbalanced armatures are probably as common as deteriorated cells. To check this, cover the cell and hold the meter with the dial vertical. Rotate it so the needle points up, down, and to both sides. It should read the same in all positions. If so, check to see if it reads zero with the cell covered. On the back of the meter is an adjustment for minor errors in this reading. If the meter passes all these tests, you have a fine photographic tool. I still carry a slightly older Weston meter in preference to any other for most work.

[AngelinaM]

Learning film photography with an 8x10 is a little like learning to drive a car with a Ferrari. Unless there is a particular need for very high quality photographs, a smaller film camera like the Nikkormat would do better.
Going along with your metaphor, wouldn't it be a pity to let the Ferarri sit in the driveway, paint fading and engine gummin' up, just because it take a little more effort and money to maintain?

[aluncrockford]

just get hold of some film, the Ilford stuff is as good as it gets, there is nothing worse than working hard to get the picture only to find the film is a bit dodgy, when using the camera remember if you are going close up measure the bellows there is a ap called reciprocity finder that works it out for you , you can work it out with all sorts of formula but the ap is easiest, I presume you know all about taking meter readings if not just go to the subject and point the meter at the camera using the invercone, it will give you a reading which will be near as dammit you can also get a meter ap they are pretty good but for them point the meter(phone) at the subject, they can also save the image so you can use your phone as a mini polaroid camera, the 10x 8 is really easy to use, but it is a good idea before you shoot the film to stop down to the f stop you are shooting at then look in the corners of the view finder just make sure you can see the image and not the bellows or the curve of the lens, I think shooting on 10x8 is a very good idea and you will end up with results that will be completely different to any thing else you have done before. you will need a tripod the bigger the better and a head that will hold the thing, if your tripod is a bit on the light side get a string bag with something heavy in it and hang it from centre if will help stabilise it . And last but not least when you load film the dark slide has a black and white side always load the film with the notch bottom right or top left with the white side facing out , when you expose the film turn the slide around so the black side is facing ,that way you will never double expose .

[Brian Ellis]

Your Nikkormat experience may help some when it comes to exposing film but it isn't going to help you much when it comes to learning how to use your 8x10 camera. If you're serious about getting into large format photography I'd suggest picking up Steve Simmons' book "Using The View Camera" or one of the several other books about large format photography. Read a good book and maybe some of the articles on the home page of this forum and you should be good to go.

Ilford b&w film is perfectly fine film, I used HP5+ for years. I think it's a good idea to use a lab when you first get started just to cut down on all the new things you're learning at one time. But to take full advantage of b&w sheet film you really should do your own processing eventually, IMHO. Processing film doesn't require a full-blown darkroom, almost any area that can be made totally dark is fine. I sat on the floor of a closet at night with towels under the door to load film for many years. Once the film is loaded there are several ways to do everything else in light.

Pinholes are more likely to just mess up the photograph than to provide an "antique-y" look. You can drape your dark cloth over the bellows to deal with small leaks like your bellows apparently has.

[Jay DeFehr]

Would there be any reason not to go with the BnW Ilford stuff on B&H? Looks cheap and has good reviews.

If it looks cheap to you, it is! Ilford is a top tier manufacturer, and I've never had a single problem with any of their films. And sending your film out for processing is a perfectly valid option, if you can afford it. There's a lot to learn about LF photography, but that's what makes it so much fun! Enjoy!

[John Kasaian]

Ilford is great stuff. That said there is a learning curve when it comes to loading film holders, forgetting to close a lens after focusing and then inserting a holder and pulling the dark slide----stuff like that. Fomapan is a fine film and wearing the .edu Ultra moniker, it's considerably cheaper per sheet than Ilford (nearly half the cost, so my tears are half as large when I waste a sheet on some silly mistake) but IMHO it does come with a rather bizarre reciprocity characteristics and the 100 iso version is s-l-o-w, often rated at iso 50, which is something that can be troublesome in the 8x10 world (however if you're shooting static subjects like antiques and you've got plenty of light that shouldn't be a problem.) For learning purposes, I don't think you could go wrong with either emulsion.

[John Kasaian]

I suggest getting a copy of Steve Simmons book Using The View Camera Its a great asset and will help a lot with gear and technique.
FWIW I've found a Printfile contact printer to be a stress free way of contact printing my 8x10 negatives.

[Mark Sawyer]

...And last but not least when you load film the dark slide has a black and white side always load the film with the notch bottom right or top left with the white side facing out...

Oops, other way around! The notch at top right or bottom left.

Check Freestyle Photo for their Arista 8x10 sheet film. Get a big, heavy tripod and a good lightmeter. Check around for a community darkroom in your area, maybe even take a photo class at a community college for darkroom access and advice. And as you've noticed, there's lots of good free advice here!

[AngelinaM]

Ok, just put a thin coat of artists acrylic on the inside of the pinpricks, it's open and drying right now. Also ordered online a copy of the Simmons book and a 25pk of ilford BW film. Talked to the antique dealer and he says he has several wooden film holders in storage that I'm going to go check out tomorrow. Fun!

Any thoughts on using a dslr for a light meter? Haven't had a chance to test the included meter out yet, but someone told me earlier this was their preferred method.

[Jay DeFehr]

Angelina,

The meter question comes down to style. Do you really want to haul out a DSLR to make your meter reading, then put it away and make your exposure with an old view camera?:o If your Weston doesn't work, replace it with a proper meter, or learn the Sunny 16 rule.:cool:

[Corran]

The ISO that the DSLR is telling you it is using isn't always the true value. So I wouldn't trust it. I know a number of people use that method, but when I've done it my negs always looked a little off. Plus, the digital doesn't have the latitude in the high values the negative film will, so it's hard to judge just what you're going to get or how to tune your development.

Have you done any Zone System stuff? Sheet film is really made for that. I wouldn't shoot a single 8x10 sheet without my Pentax Spotmeter.

[Zewrak]

A cheap and fun way to learn the camera, buy 100 packs of papers and use them for negatives. You'll afford to shoot alot, cheaply and also get done darkroom experience. Quality won't be top notch, but youll afford alot more mistakes and hiphots. You can also easily scan them.

Ilfords 8x10 papers are cheap.


don't listen to the doomsayers, play and have fun. It's not brainsurgery, fool around, if you are interested , it will come to you, naturally

[Frank Petronio]

DSLR works fine as a meter, probably far better than a 70 year old Weston meter. You really don't need a spot meter or the Zone System to make your first 8x10 images.

If you look at my portfolio you'll see I'm a lousy photographer compared to many of the Masters here, but most of my shots were metered with a battered old DSLR and they sorta came out OK for amateur work.

I'm glad we're all in agreement here, it's good to build consensus.

[AngelinaM]

A cheap and fun way to learn the camera, buy 100 packs of papers and use them for negatives. You'll afford to shoot alot, cheaply and also get done darkroom experience. Quality won't be top notch, but youll afford alot more mistakes and hiphots. You can also easily scan them.

Ilfords 8x10 papers are cheap.

Can you please elaborate a little on what you mean by "use them as negatives?" What kind of papers, just the normal Ilford film? Maybe that is a dumb question.... Easily scannable is definitely a plus though.

Thanks so much to everyone who has taken the time to give advice! Sorry if my questions are a bit pedestrian.

[Corran]

Personally, beyond the technical matters, I don't want to dick around with a DSLR while I'm out shooting. There's enough to carry around for an 8x10 and I am never happy with the extra 5-10 pounds constituting a DSLR and accouterments.

[Frank Petronio]

You can use a tiny $100 point and shoot digital Corran, they meter just fine too!

Heck even a Smartphone can meter with the right app and a little judgement.

[Corran]

Well I'll defer to you on that one. I don't own a p&s, unless you count my Nikon SP :)

[Zewrak]

Can you please elaborate a little on what you mean by "use them as negatives?" What kind of papers, just the normal Ilford film? Maybe that is a dumb question.... Easily scannable is definitely a plus though.

Thanks so much to everyone who has taken the time to give advice! Sorry if my questions are a bit pedestrian.

ordinary photographic paper. Such as ilfords MGIV. It will work as film, just with different sensitivity. The negative picture will be on the paper, which you can scan and invert to positive in tge computer.

Also you can use safelights while developing etc. so the whole process will be easier then film. Get paper, developer for paper and fix. You can use household trays etc and a blacked out bathroom.

And yes, use your Dslr until you feel yourself a need for a proper meter.

Keep it simple, use what you got and come up with solutions. Dont start buying stuff until you feel yourself that you lack something. You got the camera.

People can make lists that never ends of good to have stuff. But only what you feel that you lack after a while, is necessary.

read the book you got and play around. All cameras are the same. They just operate differently, trial and error!

[John Koehrer]

With 8X10 initially, cheaper can be better. Most find it to be a pretty steep learning curve so X-ray film or common enlarging paper is FAR more economical.
The 810 isn't the most compact and carrying a DSLR to meter just makes the kit that much heavier and bulky.

Try your meter, if it works as described above, use it. For giggles, weigh the DSLR and Weston. See what you'll have to carry with an already heavy kit.

You may also need.........shutter release, changing bag,dark cloth,focusing loupe or magnifier Case or backpack to lug it with.
Inexpensive pack frames from resale shops work, Exposure meter apps for a smart phone, and a black t-shirt for a dark cloth are all adequate and inexpensive.

There are a number of articles here on home page of the forum, the search feature is your friend.

[Alan Gales]

Go ahead and shoot the 8x10. None of us know how long sheet film will be available. Enjoy it while you can. :)

[John Kasaian]

Thanks much for the tips Jay! Looking forward to getting to know my 8x10/this place. Thanks for putting a name to the camera as well, it's obviously very useful in the course of googleing the basic how-tos that I now know what I'm shooting with.

Forgot to mention, I am also wondering about developing. I'm not really at a place (financially... spatially) that I can set up a darkroom right now. Are there any good developing companies that I could outsource to for the time being?
You don't need a dark room as much as you'll want room which you can darken. A bathroom is what I use (with a piece of cardboard fitted into the window sill) Then you can turn the lights off and see where else your darkness is leaking out from. A towel covering the door jamb may be needed---just get creative---maybe working at night if the leaks are too numerous! Unless you have a changing bag large enough for 8x10 you'll need a dark place to load your film holders anyway.
If you're using ortho/paper/ ortho x-ray film which will permit loading and developing in trays under a red light, consider looking for a Unicolor processor and a print drum---load the drum with your film in the dark and process in daylight. The details can be found linked on the LF Homepage on the blue banner up at the top of this page. If you've got counterspace available for three trays and a piece of glass you'll have enough room to make contact prints. If not look for a community dark room or perhaps a local college for your fun.

[Jim Andrada]

I vote for sending the film to a lab at first -it's not remarkably cheap but it eliminates a variable up front. And I think the fewer variables you have to deal with at first, the better

If you'd mention where you're located there might be someone from the forum around who would give you a hand with getting started. Or even develop a few sheets of film for you at low/no charge.

And label your film holders and come up with a way to tell which holders are empty and which are loaded and which are exposed

Personally I got a pack of little stick-on dots at Staples and when I load film into a holder I put the sticky dot on the holder somewhere and take it off when I unload the holder. The standard trick with the dark slides is white (or bare metal) side of the "handle" out for unexposed film and flip the dark slide around so the black side is out before putting the slide back after exposure. Write down the exposure and holder numbers for reference.

It is remarkably easy to get confused and shoot with an empty holder, or shoot more than one picture on a sheet of film etc etc etc. Having a system to manage your holders is one of the most important things you need to do.

I think it's a smart idea to just load some film (or paper - it's cheaper) in each holder and then just set the holder in the light for a few minutes and then develop the sheet - this will tell you if your holders are leaking light. Next step might be to load up the holders again and put them in the camera with the lens closed and pull out the dark slide for a couple of minutes then put it back and develop - this will tell you if you have any major light leaks particularly from the light trap where the slide comes out of the holder.

Sounds boring and it is but better than finding out that there is a leak when you shoot your first important photo. of course you need to mark the sheets of paper so you know which one was in holder 1. 2. etc. I used to punch a notch in the edge of sheet 1 and two in sheet two etc using a little hand punch.

[John Kasaian]

You don't need a dark room as much as you'll want room which you can darken. A bathroom is what I use (with a piece of cardboard fitted into the window sill) Then you can turn the lights off and see where else your darkness is leaking out from. A towel covering the door jamb may be needed---just get creative---maybe working at night if the leaks are too numerous! Unless you have a changing bag large enough for 8x10 you'll need a dark place to load your film holders anyway.
If you're NOT using ortho/paper/ ortho x-ray film which will permit loading and developing in trays under a red light, consider looking for a Unicolor processor and a print drum---load the drum with your film in the dark and process in daylight. The details can be found linked on the LF Homepage on the blue banner up at the top of this page. If you've got counterspace available for three trays and a piece of glass you'll have enough room to make contact prints. If not look for a community dark room or perhaps a local college for your fun.
Sorry 'bout that!

[premortho]

74628

I think that's a Burke & James Grover monorail....very flexible for shooting interiors, etc. Looks like a good tripod as well. If there's a box of goodies that came with it, maybe you'll find a cable release in there. I highly reccomend starting with Resin Coated variable Contrast paper as several others have. Not sure about Weston Master 111, I use Weston Master 11. Weston numbers are about 80% ASA numbers. The WM 111 may have ASA scale. I set my meter at Weston 6 for Photographic paper. Hello, crossposting here as recommended by members of another /p/hotography board. I am an absolute beginner (digital kid) but would thoroughly appreciate any advice and resources y'all could throw my way, and am dedicated to learning how to operate this now that it is within my grasp!

I work at this high-end antique/vintage store, and we recently got this 30s/40s 8x10 LF camera in. The guy we got it from (reputable dealer who we buy from frequently) said it was working as recently as last year with minimal light leaks. The owners of the store said I could have the camera free of charge provided I use it to shoot some ads for them first. whoopee.

I've googled around extensively, but there's so much historical stuff rather than any operational information. I'm not very experienced with film, but I figure this would be a great a time as any to learn.

Does anyone have advice on operating and maintaining a camera like this? Any advice on where to get film, and what kind would be best? Resources on how to shoot with antique large format cameras? Anything is appreciated.

The front element. Ilex Paragon Anastigmat, F4.5, Series S, made in Rochester

74629

Light meter. Others have advised I should get a new one because the selenium may have degraded.

74630

[John Kasaian]

Your Weston III is, IIRC marked using Weston values. Weston started being marked with the common values with the IVs or Vs. There was an article on Weston Meters in View Camera magazine several years ago that has what you'll need to convert the values over. Quality Light Meteric in Hollywood, CA can work on the old Westons should it need a new cell or calibration.

[John Kasaian]

Maintenence should be pretty straightforeward. Keep it clean. Use a good wax for protection (just like furniture) Don't crunch the bellows and depending on the bellows material (i.e. leather) it may need a dressing of some sort but in most cases gently wiping with a moist cloth is usually all thats needed. Oh, and inspect it for light leaks. Lubricate lightly once a year--wood against wood use beeswax, metal against metal, try Lubriplate. If you're caught in the rain, take special care to dry it soon afterwards. I like to gently vacume out my camera (don't crunch those bellows!) with a small handheld at least once a year, and hit my film holders with a vacume at least every other loading to keep dust at bay. resist the temptation to polish the metal fittings on wood as metal polish will migrate under the fttings and rot the wood underneath (yeah, I know some here will take objection to this:rolleyes:)

[Jim Galli]

Paper negatives (http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/Devil/Devil.html) are fun and cheap and provide near instant feedback with minimal investment. With a dark room, red light is OK, and a couple of trays you can load some 8X10 variable speed paper in your film holders, shoot, and develop in some dektol, fix, rinse, dry, and scan. Then you simply invert in photoshop. You can see what you got in minutes, and polycontrast RC paper is cheap compared to film. A lot more fun to have something on the 'puter to look at in minutes that your big 8X10 beastie made.

[AngelinaM]

Paper negatives (http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/Devil/Devil.html) are fun and cheap and provide near instant feedback with minimal investment. With a dark room, red light is OK, and a couple of trays you can load some 8X10 variable speed paper in your film holders, shoot, and develop in some dektol, fix, rinse, dry, and scan. Then you simply invert in photoshop. You can see what you got in minutes, and polycontrast RC paper is cheap compared to film. A lot more fun to have something on the 'puter to look at in minutes that your big 8X10 beastie made.

I'm going to do this paper negative process, at least to start. Ordered a bunch of Ilford MGIV paper with a pearl finish, bueno? I've never developed film on my own before, would appreciate some advice on the setup here. It seems very basic, but I couldn't find a guide on the front end of this website about developing paper, only film. Is this (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?sugexp=chrome,mod%3D2&q=dektol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1256132887163955530&sa=X&ei=DZLTT86tA4q86QGc17mGAw&ved=0CGQQ8wIwAQ) a good developer? What kind of fix should I get? A guide on developing paper negatives would be great. I've found this (http://blog.blackandwhitefineart.net/2011/09/how-to-make-paper-negatives-using-ilford-rc-darkroom-paper/), but was wondering if y'all might have something more comprehensive.

Thanks again! Almost there.

[Jim Galli]

Dektol is great, and any ordinary "Rapid Fix" will work fine. Paper develops to completion. It's different than film where we fiddle endlessly trying to get the exact curve we want by adjusting strength and time and temperature to make the curve steeper or shallower. Paper just develops to completion in 90 seconds to 2 minutes, and that's it. Very non technical.

The one thing that will help you though, and I mention it on my page I linked, is to somehow cobble a #0 or #1/2 "Paper" printing filter. This reacts with the amount of contrast recorded when you're exposing the paper. Paper is inherently too contrasty to use as a film. But the low contrast printing filter in the light path tames much of that with the variable contrast paper.

Good luck. Just dive in, you'll get the hang of it quickly. The nice thing about paper is you can see what you got nearly instantly, and go back and try again. Less exposure. More exposure. etc.


I'm going to do this paper negative process, at least to start. Ordered a bunch of Ilford MGIV paper with a pearl finish, bueno? I've never developed film on my own before, would appreciate some advice on the setup here. It seems very basic, but I couldn't find a guide on the front end of this website about developing paper, only film. Is this (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?sugexp=chrome,mod%3D2&q=dektol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1256132887163955530&sa=X&ei=DZLTT86tA4q86QGc17mGAw&ved=0CGQQ8wIwAQ) a good developer? What kind of fix should I get? A guide on developing paper negatives would be great. I've found this (http://blog.blackandwhitefineart.net/2011/09/how-to-make-paper-negatives-using-ilford-rc-darkroom-paper/), but was wondering if y'all might have something more comprehensive.

Thanks again! Almost there.

[premortho]

I also use Kodak's Dectol developer for my paper negatives. But for developing negs, (paper or lith film) I dilute it 10 to 1 of the stock solution. Read the directions on the package (it comes in various sizees, to make a quart, gallon,etc.) A great place to get the stuff, and anything else you need is Freestyle Photographic in Los Angeles. So I develope in 1-10 Dectol, under a red darkroom light until the paper is a trifle over-developed (too contrasty), then transfer it into a water bath tray for 2 minutes. Then into Kodak fixer for ten minutes. Next wash it for at least 30 minutes. I wash mine in 1 pint of water for 1 minute, change the water, then 2 minutes change the water, 4 minutes, 8 minute 8 minutes again and 8 minutes again. Then hang it to dry. I shoot the paper in the camera at asa 6 after 10 am until 5 pm normal time (not daylite savings time). Before 10 or after 5, I expose at asa 3. It's easier to use 11X14 trays to do 8X10 negs, and I reccomend you get a pack of surgeons gloves to protect your hands from the developer.

[Rod Klukas]

Keith Canham has 8x10 Tmax coming in. http://www.canhamcameras.com/

Some black silicone in side the bellows and small amount of black masking tape is better than gaffers. Gaffers is too sticky and will skin the bellows if it ever needs removing and is not very flexible if light tight.