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esox
29-May-2012, 20:50
Everything is in the question...

I'm looking for a cheap but correct film to begin with my Sinar F2. I used a bit Fomapan100 in 6x6. Find it correct for portraits and nudes, but a bit soft otherwise; I thing that this film takes benefit of being pushed up to 400 iso, better contrast, deeper blacks.

But it is not fomapan 200 !!! This film is a "T" grain film. But can it be compared to Tmax 100 or acros fuji ?I've read here and there that it can ba compared to agfa apx films.

I'll be very happy to read about your experiments with that film.

polyglot
29-May-2012, 22:45
this APUG thread (http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/105927-arista-200-edu-film-comments.html) might be of value.

IanG
29-May-2012, 23:20
I've been using both Fomapan 100 and 200 for about 5 years now mainly because I could get the film easily, I was struggling to find Tmax films in South America on a visit but Ilford and Foma B&W films where easy to find, and it's the same in Turkey.

If you're using the term soft for the contrast I'd have to disagree, I found them to be very contrasty processed normall so did my own speed/development time tests, I shoot both films at half their box speeds and process them in Pyrocat HD for 11-12 mins 1+1+100 @ 20°C (inversion agitation) that's about 75% of the times I use for Ilford Delta 100/400, HP5 and Acros.

Once I tamed the films I find the quality is excellent in both 120 & 5x4 and I'll use them for 10x8 in the future.

Compared to Tmax100 or APX100 both Fomapan 100 & 200 are excellent films, for my use with 120 & 5x4 there's no perceptible differences in image sharpness, grain or tonality (once I'd found my own effective EI's and dev times).

With 120 I've used quite a few rolls (100+) of both the Foma 100 & 200 films and I'd be hard pushed to tell you which of the two films prints were made from. I've been very happy using Fomapan 200 for 5x4. It's well worth giving Fomapan 200 a try.

Ian

esox
30-May-2012, 00:32
Thanks. In fact I used Fomapan100 with regular time dev from digitl truth with Xtol. I think the pyrocat you are using tends to give more contrast to the film no ? I'll use Xtol or R09 in a first time. But that consolidates me in the choice of those films. Also the fact of developping PF one by one is a nex viexpoint I didn't experiment yet. I was only processing rolls (120 & 135).
5

Pete Watkins
30-May-2012, 00:44
I reckon that Fomapan 200 is brilliant, the only problem is getting hold of the stuff. Ian uses Pyrocat and I use D-76H 1-1 so there are two developers to try. Use a pre wash and a water stop. I also use either a neutral or alkali fixer (depending on which chemicals I have in stock). I also wear vinyl (or whatever) gloves to protect the film from my sweaty hands.
Pete.

IanG
30-May-2012, 00:53
I've also used Xtol with Fomapan 100 & 200, again the dev times are about 75% of the other films I use. The important part is to test the films yourself to get the best out of them.

Ian

peter schrager
30-May-2012, 08:10
this film is a great buy. I have so far tried it in 4x5 for regular prints develoed in Xtol 1:1 and for alt printing in pyrocat mc 2:2:100...results are superb. the tonality is superb. use at asa125 and go have fun
Best, Peter

Jay DeFehr
30-May-2012, 09:04
I've used it in 35mm, and I have a friend who swears by the stuff. Here's one of his:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6962615586_4dbbb057b1_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7529272@N06/6962615586/) Pier at Point Defiance #1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7529272@N06/6962615586/) by moving_electron (http://www.flickr.com/people/7529272@N06/), on Flickr

In my experience, this film builds contrast very quickly, and my development times were short -- around 5:30 in 510-Pyro 1:100, 70F, rotary processing, if I remember correctly. I'd rather use Acros at EI 100, or TMY-2 at EI 400, both of which give finer grain and better sharpness. That being said, grain and sharpness are probably more than adequate for LF, and this film is less expensive than either of my favorites.