Fuji Super HR-T X-Ray film (green sensitive)? [Archive]

pbryld

28-May-2012, 10:28

pbryld

28-May-2012, 14:50

By the way, I am planning to do tray processing.

Andrew O'Neill

28-May-2012, 17:34

An EI of 80 is a good place to start. What do you plan on doing with your negatives? Silver gelatin contact prints? Alternative printing? Scanning?

pbryld

29-May-2012, 04:37

Silver gelatin contact prints. Maybe enlargements in the future (on silver gelatin paper)? Would that change things?

Thanks!!

Andrew O'Neill

29-May-2012, 15:04

kissssss

14-Jan-2013, 06:13

Most x-ray films have emulsion coated on both sides. I'm not sure if yours does. If it does, I don't think it would print very sharp if you decide to enlarge it. You would have to strip the emulsion from one side (the side that was against your film holder) with ammonia. It's very easy to do. If you do strip it, you should give move development as stripping cuts the film's DR in half.

How can we strip the second emulsion by ammonia? I would like to do this.

Thanks.
Truong

rdelung

14-Jan-2013, 09:27

Most x-ray films have emulsion coated on both sides. I'm not sure if yours does. If it does, I don't think it would print very sharp if you decide to enlarge it. You would have to strip the emulsion from one side (the side that was against your film holder) with ammonia. It's very easy to do. If you do strip it, you should give move development as stripping cuts the film's DR in half.

If memory is correct, I'm a X-Ray Tech. by trade. Mammography film ( if you can get it ) was only one sided. Plus it came in about a 8x10 size.

Andrew O'Neill

14-Jan-2013, 10:18

To strip the emulsion from the side of the film that was facing "away" from the lens, just duct tape to a piece of plate glass with this side of the film facing you. Duct tape all along the clear edge of the film so that no ammonia seaps under side of the film. Brush on (or sponge on) ammonia. The emulsion comes off pretty quick. Wear gloves and work in a well ventillated area. I wear a respirator and have a duct hose which sucks the smelly air away. Wash the film. That's it.
You will notice that the negative now has much less density. Exactly half the density it previously had. To compensate for this loss of density, develop the film longer.

Ari

14-Jan-2013, 12:08

Going by what information is available on the forum's archives, you can also use a weak bleach solution to remove the emulsion.
See this (lots of reading): http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?80011-Images-shot-on-X-ray-film

Andrew O'Neill

14-Jan-2013, 14:44

Ari is correct about bleach... use bleach, not ammonia. I use ammonia in my darkroom for other applications. Sorry for the confusion. Mind you, I use it straight, not diluted.

Corran

14-Jan-2013, 15:06

I use bleach diluted 1:1. It strips a bit slower but isn't so potent as to potentially seep into the other side and start eating away that emulsion as well. I generally don't even tape my film down anymore, I just brush on the bleach and rinse it off as I go, and have no problem.

Tri Tran

14-Jan-2013, 15:36

Here's my secret for you. There is no ISO set for Green or Blue Xray film. For its exposure it's all depending on UVA and AVB index . If you wear transition glasses then you will understand what i'm talking about how your glasses change according to the UV index. Green is sensitive to the green light and Blue is to the Blue light . Google the color UV spectrum chart so you can have better idea how this film react to the light depending time of the day.
I'm using 90% of the Xray film from 8x10 to 14x17 for my workflow. The film produced amazing tone, details and plenty contrast for my Platinum and Carbon work.
So if you wear prescription glasses please don't forget to mention to your Optometrist about the transition lenses ( chose the Grey ). You can use them as a Xray exposure guide line . Good luck!
BTW , I have never metered my exposure with Xray film , the rest will take care through develop by inspection.

Andrew O'Neill

14-Jan-2013, 18:39

I think I'll stick with metering for exposure... I can't afford transition glasses ;)

Jim Fitzgerald

14-Jan-2013, 18:44

I've shot my green x-ray film at 25 and 80 and gotten great results. Generally the film is not as sharp as the traditional stuff but if you are into soft focus images you can get some extra help. Develop in the red light and develop to you final printing process. It is really easy if you take the time to learn. Spend some time with it then you will know what it does and does not do. It is cheap so experiment.

This is a portrait of my son shot on x-ray film, green, printed in carbon.

Tri Tran

14-Jan-2013, 19:26

As Jim said develop in the red light. It's true! because the red light is at the bottom of the UV spectrum chart so the green or the blue Xray does not affected .

Tri Tran

14-Jan-2013, 19:32

I think I'll stick with metering for exposure... I can't afford transition glasses ;)

Your eye is the most important. You should protect them from UV at no cost in early age to avoid cataract surgery later. An advise from a fellow carbon printer .

ShawnHoke

15-Jan-2013, 13:58

As Jim said develop in the red light. It's true! because the red light is at the bottom of the UV spectrum chart so the green or the blue Xray does not affected .
Any red light? I picked up a low wattage red light from Target for this purpose the other day.

Andrew O'Neill

15-Jan-2013, 16:04

Your eye is the most important. You should protect them from UV at no cost in early age to avoid cataract surgery later. An advise from a fellow carbon printer .

Agreed. But I don't require spectacles yet and when the sun does shine (which it rarely does up here, especially this time of year), I wear a good pair of UV protective sun glasses.

Tri Tran

15-Jan-2013, 16:20

Any red light? I picked up a low wattage red light from Target for this purpose the other day.

You can pick up a 7 watts light bulb or night light bulb from Home Depot and spray paint it . That should work!

coisasdavida

16-Jan-2013, 15:49

If I was I, I would first develop one sheet with the lights on, just to see how your film reacts to the chemicals you are using. It is an amazing experience.

You will find lots of different stories people tell throughout the web. Lots of people say these films are soft. Lots of people say you HAVE to strip the backside emulsion.

What I found out is that some of these films are very different from what we are used to.

A few things I learned so far:

I would avoid all MQ developers.
I would avoid all developers containing Sodium Carbonate with mammo film.
I would start at ISO 400 for most T-grain double-sided X-ray films and ISO 200 for the others double-sided.
I would try Rodinal @ 1:100 or Obsidian Acqua.
I would agitate once every 2 minutes at the most.
Softness appears on some highlights due to halation.
Softness all over may be from overexposure.
Expansions are easy.
Contractions usually lead to softness.

Andrew O'Neill

16-Jan-2013, 17:58

In the end, I believe how you handle/treat the film depends on how you will print the negative (ie silver gelatin, or for alt processes... or even for enlarging). Everybody needs to follow their own path. One can only make suggestions.

rdelung

17-Jan-2013, 12:43

I am just about to put this film into use.

I have Xtol developer (also Dektol) and Ilford Rapid fixer.

Any observations regarding development times? Film sensitivity (from what I've been reading, it's around ISO 80)?

Thanks in advance!

Hi group, As an X-Ray Tech. that has moved on in other medical aspects. In reading all your replies, the question has just came up. Where, and how would I go about getting my hands on some X-Ray film. Mainly Mammo film?
Thanks from a new member, R.W.Delung

Ralph Weimer

17-Jan-2013, 17:04

http://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film.html

rdelung

19-Jan-2013, 17:52

An EI of 80 is a good place to start. What do you plan on doing with your negatives? Silver gelatin contact prints? Alternative printing? Scanning?

This brings up a point of interest to me! If I do bring out my 4x5. I was considering scanning only rather than using chem. for a print. Any thoughts out there? Thanks, R.W.Delung

rdelung

21-Jan-2013, 07:56

Most x-ray films have emulsion coated on both sides. I'm not sure if yours does. If it does, I don't think it would print very sharp if you decide to enlarge it. You would have to strip the emulsion from one side (the side that was against your film holder) with ammonia. It's very easy to do. If you do strip it, you should give move development as stripping cuts the film's DR in half.

I just found out that Mamo film hasn't been in use since 2000. I gues thats why I can't seem to find it on the net. I was wondering, If I use x-ray film. Being double coated, can I use it with my scanner? Thanks, R.W.Delung

ShawnHoke

24-Jan-2013, 07:11

I just shot my first two sheets of this film on Tuesday night. Had a bit of an adventure developing it. Here's a quick blog post (http://www.shawnhoke.com/2013/01/film-photography-8x10-fuji-hr-t-x-ray-film-test-shots/) that details my failure and success if you are interested. I made a few mistakes for sure.

Everything I learned about shooting and developing it was learned here from that monster 57- page X-Ray film thread. So thank you!

Corran

24-Jan-2013, 08:13

ShawnHoke

24-Jan-2013, 09:19

Nice write-up. Honestly I like the x-ray shot a little better, I like the glow-y highlights on the ball.

RE: sharpness, I bet if you stripped one of the emulsions it would be as sharp as the Tri-X. The double emulsion hinders the sharpness. Something to try another day maybe.

Thanks, Bryan. I like the slight softness of the x-ray film as well. And am definitely going to strip off one of emulsions in a future test. I read about that here on the forum.

rdelung

25-Jan-2013, 11:39

http://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film.html

I found a single sided film. Does anyone know anything about it? http://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-kodak-ektascan-b-ra-single-emulsion-video-film.html I'm tempted to go for it, but I would like just a little more info. first. Thanks, R.W.Delung

rdelung

25-Jan-2013, 11:47

I found a single sided film. Does anyone know anything about it? http://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-kodak-ektascan-b-ra-single-emulsion-video-film.html I'm tempted to go for it, but I would like just a little more info. first. Thanks, R.W.Delung
I looked this up on Google, and found that this film just might work out OK with out removing any emultion as with regular X-Ray film. Check this
out. R.W.Delung
http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottstillman/6457093615/

rdelung

25-Jan-2013, 16:30

I found a single sided film. Does anyone know anything about it? http://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-kodak-ektascan-b-ra-single-emulsion-video-film.html I'm tempted to go for it, but I would like just a little more info. first. Thanks, R.W.Delung

Ok, as they say if its to good to be true, it usually isn't. In this case after re-checking the add, the size was to small plus when I called the site---the product was no longer available. So as for now, unless the forum comes up with something better. I'll consider getting Large format film in 8x10, and cutting it into 4ths---saving some for use in my 8x10 view. I'm open for suggestions....Also if anyone knows where I can get a replacement bellows ( I had to tape mine for leaks ) Thanks, R.W.Delung

rdelung

12-Feb-2013, 10:56

I have some questions for the groupe. I have read that Blue High Speed film is rated at 200 iso, and Ortho Green film is rated at 50 iso. Does anyone agree? or have you found through testing a differunt rating. Which will give the best contrast, and best for use on a flatbed scanner? Also what developers and times plus temp's has anyone been useing. I'm fighting off the urge to pick up a box of X-ray film from my local supplier. I would like to get 8x10 to use, and cut down to 4x5 for my other camera. Has anyone developed any tricks for doing this, or is it a no-brainer just using a paper ( photo ) cutter and some taped on stops for each measurement? My thanks for any comments. RWDelung

Ralph Weimer

12-Feb-2013, 12:43

I shoot Fuji HR-S (green latitude) @ 100 ISO, but I don't strip either side. I use a rotary paper cutter with mat board strips taped to the cutter's table for my guides to cut 8x10 down to 4x5. Haven't been bothered by scratches from cutting. I don't scan negatives, so I can't help you there. I use Rodinal 1:100 @28C for 6 min, HP Combi tank.

I have an 8x10 print of an amaryllis on the Images Shot on X-ray Film thread from such a cut-down negative. Sharp enough for me, using both sides, even enlarged.

Ralph

Andrew O'Neill

12-Feb-2013, 13:18

I shoot green and use EI 100. I use this film for alt processes such as carbon transfer and kallitype printing, so my times would be too long for you. Developed in pyrocat-hd in flat-bottomed tray. I have cut some down to 4x5 with only a pen knife and ruler. Nice that we can use this film under a safe light.
This film looks really bad scanned... if you zoom in on it a bit in PS...not sharp at all. Removing the side of the film that wasn't facing the lens during exposure with bleach, helps a lot.

Randy

12-Feb-2013, 17:01

I have shot both green and blue rating them at ISO 100, processed in HC-110 1:63, 68/f for 8 min in trays. I have not yet stripped the back side of any of my negs. I have found the slight softness in prints from scanned 8X10 negs pleasing.

I do have a question after reading about the UV sensitivity - last night I exposed two negs of the blue sensative indoors with a flash. Any thoughts on how it will react? I have no idea of the UV output of electronic flash so I am wondering if the negs will be under/over exposed and if I should attempt to compensate some in development.