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Ken Kapinski
26-Apr-2012, 13:55
Looking for thoughts on developing times for Polaroid Type 55 neg processed with HC110 in trays. I will have some HC110 Dilution H mixed up for developing some Arista EDU but of course I can mix other dilutions if necessary. I didnt have too many sheets to start with and will have 4 whole sheets for testing and to get things ironed out. Im thinking of starting with 9 minutes and adjusting from there?

Ken

Wally
26-Apr-2012, 15:50
I must admit I'm a bit confused.

Polaroid type 55 negs are already 'developed' when you open them up and separate them from the positive.

The only thing I've had to do is bathe them in sodium sulfite to get rid of the anti-halation coating on the back.

J. Fada
26-Apr-2012, 16:43
Wally if the pods are crystallized then it is better to just open them up and develop the film.

Ken- IIRC the negative was a Kodak film and it could have been something like Panatomic-X or Double-X. You may want to start with the times for those films. Good luck!

Ken Kapinski
27-Apr-2012, 07:05
That is correct, my pods seem to have dried up so using them for the neg. Looks like 8 or 9 minutes is a good starting point, if in fact it is Panatomic-X or Double-X. I should know soon enough.

Thanks
Ken

Dennis
27-Apr-2012, 07:28
I used to do just that. Process the negs in HC110. Back in the mid 1980s it was Panatomic X. But I believe when Kodak and Polaroid had their falling out, when kodak started putting out a polaroid type instant camera, I believe Polaroid changed the film. I can't verify it but I had it that it was changed to a fuji film. Not that it matters.
Dennis

Mark Sampson
27-Apr-2012, 07:49
Kodak supplied the negative film for T-55, start to finish. It was similar to, if not identical to, Panatomic-X. I don't know what developing times will work for you, but I'd guess that a using a high dilution will make finding the right time/contrast level easier.

Trius
27-Apr-2012, 16:36
Oh, this is good info. I have one unopened box of Type 55 in the film fridge. While I hope the pods are not crystallized, if they are I think I will try Rodinal 1:100 @ ~ 20 minutes.

Ken Kapinski
28-May-2012, 17:57
74346

Finally got around to processing the Type 55. I used Kodak HC-110 dilution H at 9, 10 and 12 minutes, taco method. To my eye, I saw very little difference in the negs between the 3 times. Here is one of the test shots. This one was the 10 minute time. Slight curve adjustment at the scan and then in PS. Not too bad, looks like my scanner is producing some lines towards the top of the image. FYI don't squeeze the pods to hard when removing film from envelope!

Ken

Old-N-Feeble
28-May-2012, 18:49
Darn... Why didn't I think of doing this? About three years ago I threw away several boxes of Type 55... must have been six or eight.

Ken Kapinski
28-May-2012, 21:18
must have been six or eightYikes!

BobCrowley
2-Jun-2012, 10:02
HC110 works fine. Better to use monobath R3 with HC-110 to reduce/eliminate fog and achieve more of the original intended appearance though.

Quall's formula of which R3 is one version is great for old emulsion as it greatly reduces fog and provides a superior negative too. The film in 55 is SO-139, from Kodak. Slow development in dilute developers is not so great.

http://new55project.blogspot.com

gliderbee
3-Jun-2012, 02:49
Wally if the pods are crystallized then it is better to just open them up and develop the film.

Ken- IIRC the negative was a Kodak film and it could have been something like Panatomic-X or Double-X. You may want to start with the times for those films. Good luck!

How does one know if the pods are crystallized?

Stefan.

Ken Kapinski
4-Jun-2012, 17:38
For myself, I ran some sheets through my 545 holder and got very uneven development, and only on the pod side of the negative. I think my box had expired in the late 90's.

Ken