I have strange line's on my photos - doing something wrong in the development B&W

[Yef]

Hello guy's

I'm having a problem lately that i never had before , i have a strange line's over my 4x5 b&w sheets after developing .

I was developing with Paterson tank and a special insert that i found over the net for 4x5 sheets. And next week i bought yankee square developing box for 12 4x5 sheet's. ( which is very nice for developing i got to admit, very easy to use)

i'm attaching 2 images with these line, so maybe you can tell me if it's the developing problem or something else.

7271872717

[rdenney]

Hello guy's

I'm having a problem lately that i never had before , i have a strange line's over my 4x5 b&w sheets after developing .

I was developing with Paterson tank and a special insert that i found over the net for 4x5 sheets. And next week i bought yankee square developing box for 12 4x5 sheet's. ( which is very nice for developing i got to admit, very easy to use)

i'm attaching 2 images with these line, so maybe you can tell me if it's the developing problem or something else.

7271872717

That sort of uneven development was what I always experienced with Yankee daylight tanks. I gave up on it. Others claim success with them, but I have no idea how they achieve it, unless they give up on the daylight part and agitate by extraction and immersion. There is no way to agitate effectively otherwise. It might work with stand development techniques that avoid much agitation, but I'm completely unfamiliar with those.

When I had the darkroom, I went to deep tanks and hangers, and never had a problem with those. Now that I'm slowly preparing a return to black and white, I needed a daylight solution in that there is no dark room in this house that has plumbing. I'm going with the Jobo 2500-series tanks and reels--the Expert tank is too expensive. BTZS tubes are another option that require semidarkness for pouring chemicals in and out (total darkness during loading, of course).

Rick "amazed that the Yankee is still in production at a good price, yet all the better options are becoming hard to find or unaffordable" Denney

[Old-N-Feeble]

I never used anything but film hangers in open dip-n-dunk tanks. I had to work in total darkness until completely fixed but I never once had a problem.

[Brian C. Miller]

Yef, those are the same marks I got with mine when agitating by pulling the handle up and down. The directions on the tank indicate to rock it back and forth, and I suspect that the tank is supposed to be used with continuous agitation. Currently I use my Jobo, so of course the tank is in the back of a cupboard.

[Yef]

I guess that i just go back to working with my Paterson tank, i thought maybe that i was doing something wrong with the yankee :confused:

[Yef]

ok, so i did develop today with the peterson and the 4x5 holder and the mark are back again - somewhere smaller somewhere longer. Can it be something from the camera although to me it looks like developing :(

[koh303]

This is a cool camel, where is this shot?

How do you develop 4X5 in a paterson tank?

[Yef]

The camel was shoot in Israel :) and the paterson works great with this insert MOD : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mt_Lzd3LUnQ
This line dosen't look like a light lick during the shoot (hole in a bellows) but a chemicals that dosen't touch in the same way the film :( can it be a light that goes in in the dark room when i put the film into the tank ?

[Andrew O'Neill]

That's a neat looking adapter, but I sure don't like how the film is loaded facing inwards. Plastic parts appear to be touching or very nearly touching the emulsion. This definately would interfere with proper circulation of developer, or create weird marks/agitation patterns. On your second image, I can clearly see marks where those plastic parts are near the film's emulsion. Not a system that I would use.

[Yef]

That's a neat looking adapter, but I sure don't like how the film is loaded facing inwards. Plastic parts appear to be touching or very nearly touching the emulsion. This definately would interfere with proper circulation of developer, or create weird marks/agitation patterns. On your second image, I can clearly see marks where those plastic parts are near the film's emulsion. Not a system that I would use.

Thank you for your replay - did you ever use the yankee box? i tried it one and it made the marks like on the picture of the camel : http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63620-REG/Yankee_YACF45_Cut_Film_Daylight_Developing.html

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've never used the yankee tank, but I suspect that it would work better. Have you ever considered using tubes, like the BTZS, or homemade?

[Brian C. Miller]

I've never used the yankee tank, but I suspect that it would work better.

The Yankee tank holds the film from the bottom and top, instead of from the sides. What happens is that when it is agitated using the little handle-stick, the holes in the bottom create a surge of developer. This forms a surge pattern on the film.

The instructions on the tank lid indicate that it should be rocked back and forth, but I've only done that intermittently. This gave uneven development. I suspect that that the user is supposed to rock the tank back and forth continuously, but I've never tried that. I suspect that the density would still be uneven, with the top of the sheet receiving more agitation than the bottom.

If Yef does have a darkroom, or at least (like me) a bathroom that can be made light-tight, then he could use a slosher in a tray (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?64766-DIY-4x5-single-sheet-holder-for-trays).

[koh303]

Why not use a Jobo tank???

[Yef]

Why not use a Jobo tank???

Well I guess that's what I'm gonna do ( buy a jobo tank ) but the thing is that my Petarson with the Mod holder was working find till now :-(
I'm developing with continues rotation ( all the time - non stop ) .

I'm happy that it's the developer and not something else :-)

Thank u all