How many 120 rolls would you develop at once?

[sully75]

I just did a batch of TMAX 120 in XTOL that came out, as far as my negatives go, amazing. Best negatives I've ever made.

I used a metal reels in a 2 reel (120) tank.

I have a really long (4 120 reel?) tank that I've never used much. I definitely want to keep up with the perfect negative thing. But I also kind of hate film processing.

Anyway, basic question, do you think using a really long tank ends up causing problems? I'm doing normal agitation.

Thanks
Paul

[David A. Goldfarb]

I do up to 6 at a time.

[ic-racer]

I frequently do 10 rolls of 120 at a time in a rotary Jobo drum.

[koh303]

I frequently do 10 rolls of 120 at a time in a rotary Jobo drum.

Same, never an issue...

[cjbecker]

I think the tank that I use is a 4, 120 reel tank. I don’t hesitate to develop 4 at a time.

[Ken Lee]

Just be sure to bang or tap the tank regularly, to loosen any air bubbles.

[Jay DeFehr]

I develop 5 120 rolls by inversion agitation in a Paterson tank without issues.

[SpeedGraphicMan]

The problem is not the quantity of film, rather the drain times.

For example if you use a Paterson single 120 reel tank, it will empty in much less time a 4-reeler.

That is where you are going to get a variation.

However, if you use several tanks you can "dip and dunk" the reels into each chemical bath.

I have done this myself using some ABS tubes for "tanks".

I put up to 10 rolls on a homemade lift rod, dip it into the developer tube, agitate by lifting up and down.
Then when timer rings, lift out and dunk into tube full of stop bath, then fix, etc.

Works flawlessly every time, you just have to do it in total darkness. ;)

[Jay DeFehr]

The problem is not the quantity of film, rather the drain times.

For example if you use a Paterson single 120 reel tank, it will empty in much less time a 4-reeler.

That is where you are going to get a variation.

However, if you use several tanks you can "dip and dunk" the reels into each chemical bath.

I have done this myself using some ABS tubes for "tanks".

I put up to 10 rolls on a homemade lift rod, dip it into the developer tube, agitate by lifting up and down.
Then when timer rings, lift out and dunk into tube full of stop bath, then fix, etc.

Works flawlessly every time, you just have to do it in total darkness. ;)

The slower drain time doesn't matter, because it's offset by the slower fill time -- the first films in the developer are the first films out, etc.

[Vaughn]

Two double 120 SS tanks at a time...starting the second tank a minute or two after the first tank.

[bob carnie]

What I find of most importance is processing the same amount of film each time with 1 litre of chemicals.
With small tank , I learned the hard way of processing one roll as a test with half a tank of chemistry and then the next run doing 8 rolls ..

[Old-N-Feeble]

I've done up to 18 rolls of 120 B&W (3x 6 rolls back-to-back) plus 2 runs of E-6 back-to-back (16 E-6 rolls total) all at the same time. That was W-A-Y long ago... dip-n-dunk in temperature-controlled baths. I had no choice... we were that busy. These days I'd be happy to not mess up one roll... :(

[Andrew O'Neill]

5 Rolls.

[sanking]

24-32 rolls.

Sandy

[bigdog]

I used a metal reels in a 2 reel (120) tank. I have a really long (4 120 reel?) tank that I've never used much. ... Anyway, basic question, do you think using a really long tank ends up causing problems?

I used to routinely use the same size tank you reference, only with 8 35mm reels. Try it. It will likely be just fine.

[David R Munson]

I have done this myself using some ABS tubes for "tanks".


Now, just deep tank of PVC in a set...

Could either of you guys (both?) post photos of your setups? I've been thinking about doing something like what you've described when I can next set up a darkroom, but I'd really like to see what you've done so I can maybe improve my designs.

[SpeedGraphicMan]

The slower drain time doesn't matter, because it's offset by the slower fill time -- the first films in the developer are the first films out, etc.

Hmmm... Never even thought of that before... :o

Unfortunately I am away from homebase so I can't post any pics at present.

Just get yourself some ABS drain pipe (the thick black plastic stuff) from a good hardware/home improvement store.

If I recall correctly, I used a 3 1/2 inch diameter pipe. You should take a 120 reel with you and see what fits best.

I cut the pipes to the length I needed and glued a end cap on one end of each.

I then took a five gallon pail, cut 4 holes in the lid the same size as the outside diameter of the pipes.

I fill the 5 gallon pail with the correct temp water, then put the lid on, fill each tube with the correct amout of chemicals, and insert the tubes through the holes in the lid.

I turn out the lights, load all my reels (which takes a while) then I slide the reels onto a long lift rod I made by bending a long Stainless steel rod.

Then it dunk it all into the first tube (preasoak), then second, third, etc.

This method works very well, because of the large size of the water bath, it keeps higher temps very well, which is handy for c-41 or e-6.

Hope this helps. :)

By the by... I put a small roman numeral symbols with glow-in-the-dark paint on the outside of each tube, this lets me know which tube is developer, stop, etc.

I learned the importance of this after I accidentally immersed 10 rolls into the fixer first. :o

[evan clarke]

I frequently do 10 rolls of 120 at a time in a rotary Jobo drum.

Yep, me too..EC

[neil poulsen]

One. I keep the top off so that I can transfer it to the stop in a minimal amount of time. I use one of those wire things to remove the film and agitate by lifting up and down.

[Mike McMullen]

One. I keep the top off so that I can transfer it to the stop in a minimal amount of time. I use one of those wire things to remove the film and agitate by lifting up and down.

4 in a SS tank. The developer is already in the tank at the correct temp, so the reels are ready to dunk right away (no fill time issues). Dip and dunk in another tank to avoid drain time would be optimum, but the drain time can simply be taken into account for your total developing time, and is typically too short to make a significant difference at moderate temps. A consistent agitation procedure can be critical though. That Xtol is GREAT stuff - try it with zone system using the Ilford Delta films!