Is the Optar 135mm f/4.7 cut out for Velvia?

[Robert Ellis]

Hello folks,

I have a Graflex Optar 135mm f/4.7, in Graphex shutter. I've used this lens with success on B&W films, but am wondering how it will perform with Velvia 50? I've already shot a partial box of Velvia with it, but have yet to develop those shots. So my question is: am I wasting my Velvia on this lens? I'm planning on buying a more modern lens this summer, but would really like to capture some colour sunrises and such this spring while there are still proper transitions between night and day up here in Alaska.

Thanks,

Robert

[E. von Hoegh]

You might be surprised, just how well that works. Why wouldn't it? As long as the shutter is accurate, it will do fine.

[Robert Ellis]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I was figuring that a modern lens would handle colours better, or something. Thanks for the info. I shall continue shooting it, and hopefully get some developed soon!

[BrianShaw]

I understand why you were thinnking modern would be better, but I've had good experience with Optar on E-6 too. Also good experience with older uncoated Kodak Anistagmat and E-6. One more word to add to your vocabulary if it isn't there already: lenshood.

[E. von Hoegh]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I was figuring that a modern lens would handle colours better, or something. Thanks for the info. I shall continue shooting it, and hopefully get some developed soon!

Your Optar is a Tessar type. With the coating that is on it, it is to all intents and purposes a modern lens.

[BrianShaw]

Ha ha... for some of us I guess the 1960s were almost like yesterday.

[domaz]

The Optar is much unloved because it's common and just a Tessar but if it's coated there is no reason why it wouldn't work well with slide film. The shutter may not be as accurate as it sounds though. I have had shutters that "sounded right" totally botch slide film before.

[Nguss]

I suppose that if you were concerned you could always get one or two of the shots you have taken developed now if that is feasible / cost effective. I was only thinking this as you may not want to go through the entire box and then regret it. I am sure from reading the above you won't have any issue, or regret it as the people on the forum definitely know what they are talking about, but it might be worth giving it a go if you have any lingering concerns?

[E. von Hoegh]

The Optar is much unloved because it's common and just a Tessar but if it's coated there is no reason why it wouldn't work well with slide film. The shutter may not be as accurate as it sounds though. I have had shutters that "sounded right" totally botch slide film before.

Calibrating a shutter by ear is like setting valve clearances by eye. It doesn't work very well.

[E. von Hoegh]

I suppose that if you were concerned you could always get one or two of the shots you have taken developed now if that is feasible / cost effective. I was only thinking this as you may not want to go through the entire box and then regret it. I am sure from reading the above you won't have any issue, or regret it as the people on the forum definitely know what they are talking about, but it might be worth giving it a go if you have any lingering concerns?

Nguss, I used the same lens with Fuji 50, the ancestor of Velvia. As long as his shutter is accurate, he'll get lovely results.

[unixrevolution]

I have personally shot several 4x5" shots on Provia with my Graphex 135 4.7, and have been very pleased with the results. It's a much better lens than people, including me, give it credit for.

[Robert Ellis]

Thank you all for the informative replies; they're very encouraging. I shall look into fashioning a lenshood for it, as I've just been using my hand. Also, the shutter appears to be quite accurate at slower speeds and I'm loathe to spend money to get it checked out when I'm planning to upgrade in a few months.

[E. von Hoegh]

The only real issue with that lens is that it gives no room for movement on 4x5, hardly surprising for a Tessar of that focal length. It's an underrated lens, and I'm sorry I ever traded mine off.

By all means get a proper lens hood for it - but I'd be telling you that if you were using a brandy-new triple ultramegacoated Schniedenstock Whizzbangogon.

[unixrevolution]

Thank you all for the informative replies; they're very encouraging. I shall look into fashioning a lenshood for it, as I've just been using my hand. Also, the shutter appears to be quite accurate at slower speeds and I'm loathe to spend money to get it checked out when I'm planning to upgrade in a few months.

The easiest way, I'm told, to get a lens hood onto a 135/4.7 is to get a press-on Series VI accessory adapter and an adapter from that to some threads. Google it and it should become clear. I have a bunch of old filters from the Bay coming in, and if any of it fits my Graphex, I'll let you know exactly what you need to go buy.

EDIT: Here's the Photo.net article I found: http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00VEq3


The only real issue with that lens is that it gives no room for movement on 4x5, hardly surprising for a Tessar of that focal length. It's an underrated lens, and I'm sorry I ever traded mine off.

By all means get a proper lens hood for it - but I'd be telling you that if you were using a brandy-new triple ultramegacoated Schniedenstock Whizzbangogon.

Triple ultramegacoated? Guess I have to trade in my Double Ultramegacoated Fujistock-Kreuznikon Whizzbangogon-W.

[BrianShaw]

38 mm; 1-1/2 inch adapter (from memory)

[Peter York]

Yes, its 38mm. I just bought one for my Optar.

[eddy pula]

Just for me... the optar and a reasoably synced kalart rangfiner plus 500 at f8 with no fill gave me soft 8x10's. Thats why you HAVE to make prints, I shot off 200 sheets before I enlarged them and realised that I was using 4x5's to get like 645 level sharpness, and thats just dumb!
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3430/3727895821_58a3f1c70d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/raijsi/3727895821/)
Self Portrait as a black boy with body issues (http://www.flickr.com/photos/raijsi/3727895821/) by Eddy Pula (http://www.flickr.com/people/raijsi/), on Flickr
still like this picture but the print looks like sheet

[E. von Hoegh]

Just for me... the optar and a reasoably synced kalart rangfiner plus 500 at f8 with no fill gave me soft 8x10's. Thats why you HAVE to make prints, I shot off 200 sheets before I enlarged them and realised that I was using 4x5's to get like 645 level sharpness, and thats just dumb!
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3430/3727895821_58a3f1c70d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/raijsi/3727895821/)
Self Portrait as a black boy with body issues (http://www.flickr.com/photos/raijsi/3727895821/) by Eddy Pula (http://www.flickr.com/people/raijsi/), on Flickr
still like this picture but the print looks like sheet

The lenses are sharp. Is your rangefinder tracking the lens at all distances? How did you check this? Is your GG in the correct location? Filmholders? Don't condemn the lens when you have at least three other variables, and that before you get to the enlarger.

[BrianShaw]

... not to mention tripod jitter and/or heartbeats, caffeine jitter, or other types of nervous tremors (if hand-holding).

[BrianShaw]

p.s. eddie -- I like your "self-portrait" series. They make me smile. In one situation, though, (self-portrait as two ladies) there is so much attitude showing that I'm shocked that camera didn't end up halfway down your throat. :)

[E. von Hoegh]

... not to mention tripod jitter and/or heartbeats, caffeine jitter, or other types of nervous tremors (if hand-holding).

Then there's the alien fuzz-ray, and sometimes a zombie jostles me.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

The Wollensak Optars are identical to Raptars. They're single magnesium-fluoride hard- coated Tessars not particularly prone to flare. Like most Tessars they'e wicked sharp and contrasty by f/16 and equal to just about anything at f/22. Handheld at f/8 they were adequate for newsprint--millions of images in print attest to this.
That 50+ year old Wolly shutter may not be accurate to the stated speeds but if CLA'd it will likely be consistent to 1/3 stop or even better. If gunked-up you may have a box of over-exposed Velvia. You could do a test of one or several sheets and pull-process the remainder...

[Robert Ellis]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone! I look forward to shooting some more with this lens soon.

[Lynn Jones]

To the best of my recolection, the Optar was made similarly to be the equivalent of the the Ektar and the Raptar. I believe that they were made by Wollensak with the Graflex name on it.

Lynn