Bogen Quick Release Plate Problem

[poliweb]

I have a B&J Commercial 8x10 that I am using on a Bogen 3050 tripod with a 3047 head. I have a problem with the camera moving when I am inserting or removing the plate holder. I try to tighten the hexagonal QR plate as tightly as I can to the camera (fingers only) but when I insert a plate holder it causes the camera to swivel and slip on the QR plate.

I tried a fix. I noticed that the B&J has two tripod sockets. So I fashioned an aluminum plate that has a hole that lines up with each socket. Into one I inserted a 1/4" bolt and into the other the QR plate. I also drilled a hole in the aluminum plate that lines up with the set screw in the QR plate that is used (I think) with some video cameras. The idea is that the set screw engages in the hole and prevents the camera from rotating about the QR plate screw. Then I discovered that the QR plate screw is actually narrower than the hole in the plate, so that there is still room for movement. It can't move as far, but it still moves. There are other holes in the QR plate that I could utilize - by adding posts to the aluminum plate that would engage in the holes.

I feel that this is all getting a bit Rube Goldberg-esque and so I thought I'd ask and see if I'm missing something. Does anyone else have this issue? Is there an easy fix?

Thanks

Richard

[Dan Fromm]

The 3047's standard hexagonal QR plate is Manfrotto # 130-14. I've had similar problems with them.

Try a 130-14 (flat bottomed) or 130-38 (flat bottomed) QR plate; 1/4-20 and 3/8 attachment screw, respectively. B&H has both. These differ from the standard hexagonal QR plate in having a slotted attachment screw, not the knob that my fingers can't always tighten enough, and three set screws that bear against the camera base. The set screws will help you.

Alternatively, drill and tap your QR plate and put in set screws.

[Jon Shiu]

Is it possible to attach the QR plate to the base with wood screws?

Jon

[lenser]

Richard,

I've had huge issues with the engineering on the Bogen/Manfrotto plates ever since I first bought one eons ago. Their heads are terrific, but you simply can't finger tighten the plates since the "textured" grip is rounded on the grip surfaces and then painted with a slick enamel. Fortunately, someone decided to include one hole in the side that you use to insert something like an Allen wrench and use that to torque it down considerably tighter. It's a stop gap fix, but it does help.

Secondly, the grip material used on the camera mating surface is not a good grip surface for anything much bigger than a 35mm. The bigger the camera, the easier it slips, so while I have and use several Bogen heads, every one has been modified by me. The first thing I've done right after purchase is to remove the current material and use either cork, or my current preference, tanned deer hide attached with Contact Cement. The grip is way better, even with the hex plate on two different and fairly heavy 8x10 cameras.

The third thing to do is to tighten the plate down as much as you can, but in a position that is slightly less than the alignment you will want to use. Then put the camera on the tripod and use the camera itself like a big wrench to complete the tightening process. That really helps to tighten the camera to the plate and almost guarantees that it will stay where you want it.

[poliweb]

Thanks for all the responses. At least I don't feel alone now!

I'll take a look at the Manfrotto plates.

I had thought about screws - but didn't want to mess up the base of my camera (even though a battleship gray B&J isn't exactly a show piece.) I had also considered making a simple sliding block attachment for the base (my camera didn't come with one), then I could just screw the QR plate in place.

I had considered finding something to fit into the slot - I may give that a try, with a twist at the end as suggested.

Finally, I may just add more set screws.

It does seem like a design flaw.

Thanks again,

Richard

[Henry Ambrose]

They make (or made) plates with set screws distributed around the center hole to allow you to secure the plate against twisting. Look at some of these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Manfrotto&ci=4925&N=4289936034+4289361368

You want one with the countersunk flathead screw. Then tighten it with a big screwdriver (or a quarter if your hands are strong). You'll never get the knurled knob version tight enough with your fingers. When attaching the camera and QR to the tripod head you'll need to firmly push the lever closed tight to eliminate any play.

[MIke Sherck]

I had an old bicycle tire inner tube that I cut a piece out of. I put it between the hex plate and the camera, tightened the screw up as much as I could and then gave it another 1/4 turn with pliers. It hasn't moved on me since. :)

Mike

[Bob Salomon]

I had an old bicycle tire inner tube that I cut a piece out of. I put it between the hex plate and the camera, tightened the screw up as much as I could and then gave it another 1/4 turn with pliers. It hasn't moved on me since. :)

Mike

This is OK for a view camera with a deep enough hole. But there is an industry standard for the depth of the tripod hole and the length of the tripod screw (not all manufacturers follow it though).
If you are using that plate on a camera with electronics or mechanical connections directly beneath the tripod socket your advice could break the camera.

So use this technique carefully and judicially.

[Peter Gomena]

I bought a piece of stick-on no-slip stair tread "sandpaper" in the paint department at Home Depot and attached it the bottom of my old Korona 8x10 when I had this sort of problem. It helped. The Bogen plate with the countersunk screw and three set screws is a much better permanent solution. I use my twist-tight Bogen plate for smaller formats and the set screw model for my 4x5.

Peter Gomena

[Dennis]

Are you guys talking about this one, the 4 inch? I have this on the bottoms of my 8x10 and 4x5 cameras. I screwed in all the set screws and tightened the large knob a bit with pliers and left them on permanently. They don't budge. It would take pliers to get them back off again.

[Dan Fromm]

Dennis, your plate is square. We're talking about a hexagonal plate. I gave the Manfrotto numbers in post #2 in this thread.

[Dennis]

The plate I showed is a hex plate with a 4 inch base. It works in the standard hex plate tripod head.
Dennis

[BrianShaw]

I've put a piece of soft leather (buckskin is what I used) or closed-cell foam between my camera mount and the Bogan/Manfrotto hex plate to minimize twisting. Both products helped in my situation.

[Frank_E]

The plate I showed is a hex plate with a 4 inch base. It works in the standard hex plate tripod head.
Dennis

Dennis,
do you know the part number of that particular plate
looks like a good solution
thanks

[Dennis]

I pulled that picture off an old Sandy King ad here in the forum. Unfortunately I think the plate has been discontinued and you have to find them on ebay. I have bought two from ebay so now I have 3. The plate works well with a Rolleiflex too because all the bottom feet on the Rollei sit on the plate. I will take a look in ebay and see if there is one now.
Dennis

[Dennis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manfrotto-030L-100X100-LARGE-BED-PLATE-/170808592282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c4fc479a

Here is one I think with the part number.

Actually now I look at that ebay ad it might be different. A bit smaller.

[poliweb]

Even more great advice. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now I definitely don't feel alone!

I think my first solution will be to add some material between the plate and camera (latex perhaps?) and the crank it down hard with some kind of lever device in the slot.

The longer term solution may be to add a few more pegs to my aluminum plate to engage with the holes in the existing QR plate. That won't be much extra work at this point.

Richard

[Dave Hally]

You might try some High friction material, available from Lee Valley tools, and I got something similar from Home Depot, but haven't tried it with a large camera. I use a 410 head with my Chamonix 4x5 (light weight) and use two screws through the plate into the base of the camera. I would look at doing something like that if you can, probably only need to drill one hole the camera base.
Dave Hally

[Dan Fromm]

Even more great advice. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now I definitely don't feel alone!I think my first solution will be to add some material between the plate and camera (latex perhaps?) and the crank it down hard with some kind of lever device in the slot.
Richard

Somewhere, sometime, I saw some Manfrotto documentation that recommended using a long stout screwdriver as a lever. Didn't work well for me, but you may have better luck.

[poliweb]

I used a screwdriver in the slot and got an extra quarter turn of tightening. That made a big difference - no movement so far. Thanks for the suggestion.

Richard