Contrast for E-6 + older lenses

[Ed Eubanks]

I have a Crown Graphic with a Wollensak Optar 135; both are in great condition, and function to my complete satisfaction. While I've done pro photography for quite awhile, my LF experience has been limited and only personal, and relegated to the B&W realm... until now! I have been asked to shoot a portrait for what will be a large (roughly 3 & 1/2 feet by 4 & 1/2 feet) promotional sign. The image will be four young children of a variety of gender and race combinations. It will be in a studio setting with a gray background and a basic strobe setup. I considered using my medium-format gear (6x4.5) for this, but was concerned about the enlargement ratio, and therefore I'm considering going with the LF. Here is my question: what (E-6) film to use? I had almost settled on Kodak's E100G, and I'm not opposed to it. However, I realize that the Optar tends to be lower in contrast and "pop" than the more modern lenses, and this has caused me to reconsider film choice. Should I go with something like Velvia (which I had initially ruled out because of its vividness and contrast), stick with the E100G, or something else? Or, should I go back to the MF gear in favor of the multi-coated lenses? A bit more information: I am not very familiar with the various transparency film families, and will appreciate any guidance therein (especially recommendations on ISO ratings, etc.). Also, there is NO budget for new equipment, so what is on hand must suffice. Thanks in advance for any help.

[CP Goerz]

My two cents is to stick to the E100g, when the neg is blown up the contrast will increase not decrease, a slightly lower contrast neg/chrome will yield a more natural looking print. As for lighting to make the contrast pop a little more use a hairlight or a strip type softbox and aim at the backs of their necks with it(remember to make sure the lens doesn't 'see' this light so set up a gobo). I always had good luck with that rig!

CP Goerz.

[neil poulsen]

What will be the enlargement process?

[Frank Petronio]

Your lighting will have a much greater effect than the difference between an older lens versus a newer lens. Definitely do a test ahead of time. And why are you shooting chromes anyway? Wouldn't color neg be safer exposure-wise and easier to enlarge?

[Jim Galli]

I'm going to stick my neck out and "assume" that sooner or later a computer and photoshop will become part of the equation. It almost has to these days if pulishing is involved. That said the Kodak film and Optar should be fine. You can use the "hue-saturation" slider and contrast controls to do just about anything you want assuming you have a decent set of values to begin with.

[Ralph Barker]

I agree with Jim - it is quite likely that the posters will be produced digitally. Thus, you may want to check with the client as to the production process and whether they have a preference for transparencies or negs. The other associated issue is whether they expect you to do the scanning and provide a final digital file. And, if so, in what format and on what media. Once you know more details about their plans, you can anticipate issues like building the cost of a drum scan from an outside service into your bid.

[steve simmons]

We are doing a complete review of color transparency films in our Jan issue. You can try the Kodak film. Shoot extra sheets. Take one to the lab and have them process it normally. After looking at it try another sheet at a plus 1/2 which will add some contrast to the sheet of film. Then judge where to go from there. If the image canstand a little more contrast try a third sheet at plus 1.

steve simmons www.viewcamera.com

[Capocheny]

I also agree with Jim... however, having said that, I would also pop a couple of sheets of negative film just to be on the safe side of things.

Steve also makes a good point about shooting two (or more) sheets (especially with chromes) and processing them one at a time.

It's ALL about "getting the shot," isn't it?

As to your question about whether to shoot LF or MF... there have been lots of postings about shooting portraiture with LF on this website. Do a search and you'll end up with lots of great info on what others have done in the past.

Good luck and do let us know how the shoot went.

Cheers

[neil poulsen]

To the comment on taking two transparencies, developing one normally, and then pushing or pulling the second based on the results of the first, I would add the following. Use polaroid to get close on the first exposure. I've contrived some tables that take into account the reciprocity of both the polaroid and the film that I'm using to determine the exposure based on the polaroid. I can usually get close on the first exposure using this approach, and use the second exposure to optimize. Or, use the second exposure as a duplicate.

[Scott Walton]

The use of a shade will help and what I do usually is to push chromes 5-10% as a normal and that cleans up the colors and gives the chrome a boost that I like. A test will have to be done with a trusted lab, or if you develop yourself, you need to make sure you have your process nailed down tightly to get consistent results!