View Full Version : So I purchased the D5 XL
Hey there.
So I drove 2 hours down to Muar, Johor, and took the plunge on the D5 XL. Paid 900USD. And it came with 5 lenses, an extra stand for parts. One of the lenses is an APO something.
Though the problem im facing is, I dont have(?) the mounting plate to mount it on the baseboard. It came with ( what I think is ) a floor stand.
Is this the mounting plate ?
68932
Also came with 2 x Chromegatrol. And one of the lenses is weird.... With a screw protruding. Not to mention it's showing 3rd stage schneideritis!
68933
After much tinkering, managed to mount (what i think is ) the baseplate, to the lower thingy. Is this the correct way of mounting it ? How do I come about mounting it to the baseboard ?
6893468935
And the light is orange ? I see others are purple..
Greg Blank
25-Feb-2012, 04:55
Yes it is
Greg Blank
25-Feb-2012, 05:04
Yes it is, you have the mounting plate upside down. The clamp rims insert into those protruding flanges. Omega probably has a diagram for installing. Call them 800-777-6634 Monday.
After much tinkering, managed to mount (what i think is ) the baseplate, to the lower thingy. Is this the correct way of mounting it ? How do I come about mounting it to the baseboard ?
6893468935
And the light is orange ? I see others are purple..
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 05:38
After much tinkering, managed to mount (what i think is ) the baseplate, to the lower thingy. Is this the correct way of mounting it ? How do I come about mounting it to the baseboard ?
6893468935
And the light is orange ? I see others are purple..
As Greg mentioned, the baseplate mount is upside down.
It will sit flat on the baseboard when it is the correct side up, but the three bolts will be inserted into three thru-drilled holes in the baseboard with a T-nut at the bottom. You could use a nut and large rigid flat washer, but a T-nut will be much easier (inserted from the bottom), especially if you are "wrangling it" by yourself.
If the baseboard is not the Omega baseboard (i.e. without the three holes or the T-nuts), then you will need to get the holes oriented correctly as those black tabs / clips will be holding the enlarger in place to prevent it falling forward from the force of its weight on the angle.
They are good enlargers and a good compromise between quality, function, and cost.
Enjoy
It's been some time since I worked in a darkroom with bench mounted Omegas but further to what Len wrote, I would orient the plate so that two of the retaining tabs are at the rear so that they will take the weight of the enlarger vs one tab. Hope that makes sense.
If u end up needing mounting parts, let me know. I have a complete d2 in the basement.
ic-racer
25-Feb-2012, 08:48
Looks like you can get a baseboard here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/404812-Omega-D5-XL-Baseboard
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 09:01
Hey there.
So I drove 2 hours down to Muar, Johor, and took the plunge on the D5 XL. Paid 900USD.
You might want to include your location in your signature, as given the responses, not everyone knows you are located in or around Malaysia...
68952
Did I mount it correctly this time ?
It's been some time since I worked in a darkroom with bench mounted Omegas but further to what Len wrote, I would orient the plate so that two of the retaining tabs are at the rear so that they will take the weight of the enlarger vs one tab. Hope that makes sense.
Makes perfect sense! Ill do it now.
Sending off 5 lenses to me technician for a thorough cleaning.
On the mounting plate in the middle, there's sorta a hole. What's the purpose of the hole ?
Bill_1856
25-Feb-2012, 09:30
I'd consider investigating the floor stand more fully.
On the mounting plate in the middle, there's sorta a hole. What's the purpose of the hole ?
The center hole is just to run a small screw into the baseboard, just to hold it in place while you're trying to mount the column to the plate.
T-nuts ? T-nuts are ones with the sharp thingy right ? So Ill have to sink it in the wood ?
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 09:48
T-nuts ? T-nuts are ones with the sharp thingy right ? So Ill have to sink it in the wood ?
Exactly. See pictures here: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/t-nuts-for-wood/nuts/fasteners/ecatalog/N-c2n
And of course you install them on the underside so they dig in more as you tighten. Sorry, if that is obvious, but better than finding out when they pull out and the enlarger and expensive head fall over...
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 09:51
I'd consider investigating the floor stand more fully.
I'm with Bill on this...
My D5 is on a floor stand to allow greater magnifcation by dropping the easel stage, as was a Beseler I had last year.
My current problem is I cant lower the color head. Something's blocking it.
And I guess ill commission a local furniture shop to make a baseboard with dimensions;22" x 34" x 1.5"
( same as factory )
Oh crud. When I opened the Dichroic head to extract the medium format mixing box, found this bugger out of its place. If possible Id like to remove all of em, as they could use a cleaning. But i cant seem to figure out how to fix this bugger in place.
68957
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 10:05
My current problem is I cant lower the color head. Something's blocking it.
And I guess ill commission a local furniture shop to make a baseboard with dimensions;22" x 34" x 1.5"
( same as factory )
There is a knob on the right hand side at the bottom of the chassis that the head rides on. That is to lock the head in position. However with enough force on the crank you might be able to override it, but do not!!!
For my stand, I just have a sheet of 5/8" (15mm?) thick plywood with a plastic counter top type to finish it for the easel stage. The stand is a metal fabrication that I got from a late friend many years ago.
Dont tell me I need a new Dichroic head...
And I find it weird that ( given the range ), the 3 colours can only be adjusted from 000-170
That's a question to ask BEFORE you make the purchase. The filter that fell out isn't a good sign. Don't mess with anything else in there if you can put it back in. 000-170 is the norm for your head, you want more for some reason?
QUOTE=Dan95;852588]Dont tell me I need a new Dichroic head...
And I find it weird that ( given the range ), the 3 colours can only be adjusted from 000-170[/QUOTE]
When I checked it, nothing was out of place. Upon returning home, checked the thing, and found the filter out of place. Darn..
Len Middleton
25-Feb-2012, 10:33
When I checked it, nothing was out of place. Upon returning home, checked the thing, and found the filter out of place. Darn..
Damaged during transport?
Damaged during transport?
Could be.
Anyways found this threaed http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?76521-Ungluing-Cracked-Omega-D5XL-dichroic-filter
Found this one http://www.classic-enlargers.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1128148100
Greg Blank
25-Feb-2012, 11:39
If the arms are still in proper position you just need to glue the filter back. Plio Bond is used "typically" its a high temperature plumbing glue obtained from McMaster Carr- it does have shipping restrictions. It is also very nasty stuff as it contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone.
I managed to remove the filter plates, and was able to mount them back on!
Tomorrow gonna get meself some glue, and i'll glue back the filter in position.
Superglue wont cut it I guess. Will buy some high-melting point glue from the local hardware store.
What the hell is a D5 XL anyway? Thats what annoyed me so much with APUG. I got this xltgfu100 for like 1c, where do I get a left front wheel?
Well, this is a photography forum. I'm under the assumption many are familiar with Omega enlargers.. not Ford pickups.
Brian C. Miller
25-Feb-2012, 22:12
What the hell is a D5 XL anyway? Thats what annoyed me so much with APUG. I got this xltgfu100 for like 1c, where do I get a left front wheel?
The D5XL is an Omega 4x5 enlarger. Sitting on the floor and with the dichro head up all the way, it goes up to my nose.
Received 2 x 135 negative carriers, 1 x 2 1/4 x 2 3/4, 2 x 4x5 ones. All without glasses.
Do I need to sort of calibrate the color head ? Zero it or something?
ic-racer
26-Feb-2012, 01:11
What the hell is a D5 XL anyway? Thats what annoyed me so much with APUG. I got this xltgfu100 for like 1c, where do I get a left front wheel?
Ok, you typed "D5 XL" in google images and saw a picture of an enlarger and a bulldozer. You understand the OP is in the DARKROOM section of a PHOTOGRAPHY forum, right :)
Ok, you typed "D5 XL" in google images and saw a picture of an enlarger and a bulldozer. You understand the OP is in the DARKROOM section of a PHOTOGRAPHY forum, right :)
I just googled, the first few images actually are pictures of bulldozers ! ;)
Len Middleton
26-Feb-2012, 01:58
Ok, you typed "D5 XL" in google images and saw a picture of an enlarger and a bulldozer. You understand the OP is in the DARKROOM section of a PHOTOGRAPHY forum, right :)
I tried that too, but learned something new as I did not realize D5 was also a bulldozer, as do not usually see anything smaller than a CAT D8...
I tried that too, but learned something new as I did not realize D5 was also a bulldozer, as do not usually see anything smaller than a CAT D8...
Apparently, its also a fish!
Lesson learnt, next time, Ill put more effort in entitling my photos.
Len Middleton
26-Feb-2012, 03:27
Apparently, its also a fish!
Lesson learnt, next time, Ill put more effort in entitling my photos.
David`s comment is valid in that we have a large diverse group on this forum with differing levels of knowledge, as well as the issue of an individual`s exposure to different equipment.
Greg has serviced this equipment for customers, ic has maintained his own, Fred has run a daarkroom with multiple units, and I have owned an Omega D5 XL for a number of years. Others do not share that experience.
There is also the issue that not all equipment is distributed to all countries (Omega is a USA manufacturer), nor might it be called the same in all markets for very valid reasons. There is the old story recounted in all basic international marketing courses, where General Motors tried to sell a popular car nameplate within the USA and Canada, in Spanish speaking countries with a nameplate that translated in Spanish to NO GO (NO VA)...
So yes a title of I Purchased the Omega D5 XL Enlarger would have been better.
With the purchase of the enlarger, I received 6 enlarging lenses :
Rodenstock Rodagon 50 f2.8
Rodenstock Rodagon 135 f5.6
Rodenstock Rodagon 80 f4
Schneider Kreuznach Componon-S 100 f5.6
Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon N 80 f4
Rodenstock Rogonar-S 90 f4.5
All of them NEED to be CLA-ed, as they have fungus and stuff. Was quoted around 35-40USD each for a thorough CLA.
I currently have a EXC+ condition Rodenstock Rodagon 80 f4 which Ive been using with my Meopta, and also Ive got a 50 Nikkor EL f2.8 on the way ( bought it off ebay a few days ago )
I cant afford the CLA all the lenses. Can you guys help me pick out the best of the lot to be used ? Ill let the others sit in the drybox.
Am thinking :
Nikkor EL 50 f2.8 for my 35mm negs.
Rodenstock APO Rodagon 90 for medium format negs.
Rodenstock Rodagon 135 f5.6 for 4x5s.
ic-racer
28-Feb-2012, 16:23
Those lenses listed would be 3 good choices.
In terms of fungus, everyone has their own stories. I categorize fungus into two classifications:
a) wipes off easily
b) permanent
I have not encountered anything in between. That is I have not encountered a lens that gets clearer with aggressive 'cleaning.' Another way to say that if it does not wipe off easily it is permanent.
I have quite a few threads here about success stories cleaning beater lenses or getting good results in certain conditions with beater lenses. However, in your case I might recommend selling the whole lot of lenses and getting one or two clear lenses.
I guess Ill sell off the lenses after getting them repaired. :)
Graybeard
29-Feb-2012, 08:27
Those lenses listed would be 3 good choices.
In terms of fungus, everyone has their own stories. I categorize fungus into two classifications:
a) wipes off easily
b) permanent
I have not encountered anything in between. That is I have not encountered a lens that gets clearer with aggressive 'cleaning.' Another way to say that if it does not wipe off easily it is permanent.
I have quite a few threads here about success stories cleaning beater lenses or getting good results in certain conditions with beater lenses. However, in your case I might recommend selling the whole lot of lenses and getting one or two clear lenses.
Some camera repair technicians use hydrogen peroxide when cleaning fungus from optical surfaces. This is a good idea to prevent regrowth and might help to loosen a stubbornly adhering growth.
I just googled "Omega D5 XL baseboard", and all of them have flat bottoms.
Shouldnt the baseboard be raised a little ? Since the screws protrude a little.
Am going to get one manufactured in 12 hours. Dimensions per the ones for sale on Freestlye.
*Ex of raised baseboard : http://www.adorama.com/images/product/SD4550XLV.JPG
*Ex of flat bottomed baseboards ( no raisers ) : http://www.jafaphotography.com/images/eq/OGD5XLD.jpg
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/photo7.jpg
Just realised the socket thing on the chromegatrol where you insert the plug is loose. Hmm maybe Ill open it up tomorrow..
Or Ill just use some tape!
And it seems as though the numbers are a wee bit off centre..
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/photo8.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/photo9.jpg
SamReeves
29-Feb-2012, 09:30
That's okay, the numbers for the filters the same way on mine too.
Bought some glue ( high melting point ). Will get to work tonight! Some weird kinda glue, have to mix them.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/photo10.jpg
Apparently the epoxy hardens to a rigid metallic mass, similar to steel.
Hmm does it matter which side is facing the bulb? Ive them in order; cyan yellow magneta ( labelled )
Also noticed that all 3 mixing chambers are slightly yellow-ish. Doubt It'll pose a problem as I only intend on printing B&Ws. But what the heck, Im replacing the lining. They can be purchased on ebay at around 20USD+.
They are oddly familiar to those .50$ styrofoam slabs sold at fish shops..
And Im getting a baseboard built exactly like this one ! http://www.flickr.com/photos/babylinux/5148191535/
Raised a little, since the screws are protruding..
Another problem! This thing ( as pictured ) cant lock the middle column. Am thinking of returning the enlarger. Too many problems :(
This I took off the enlarger : http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/IMG_0548.jpg
The screw's too short.
Brian Ellis
1-Mar-2012, 09:58
I have to respectfully disagree. I see no reason to bring the level of communication down to the lowest common denominator. If someone doesn't understand a term they can always ask. I really don't think I should have to talk about my "4 inch x 5 inch" camera because someone might not know what a "4x5" camera is or "the zone system, which is a system used to determine the most appropriate film exposure and development times for a given subject" because someone might not understand the term "zone system."
David`s comment is valid in that we have a large diverse group on this forum with differing levels of knowledge, as well as the issue of an individual`s exposure to different equipment.
Greg has serviced this equipment for customers, ic has maintained his own, Fred has run a daarkroom with multiple units, and I have owned an Omega D5 XL for a number of years. Others do not share that experience.
There is also the issue that not all equipment is distributed to all countries (Omega is a USA manufacturer), nor might it be called the same in all markets for very valid reasons. There is the old story recounted in all basic international marketing courses, where General Motors tried to sell a popular car nameplate within the USA and Canada, in Spanish speaking countries with a nameplate that translated in Spanish to NO GO (NO VA)...
So yes a title of I Purchased the Omega D5 XL Enlarger would have been better.
ic-racer
1-Mar-2012, 10:41
Another problem! This thing ( as pictured ) cant lock the middle column. Am thinking of returning the enlarger. Too many problems :(
This I took off the enlarger : http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/IMG_0548.jpg
The screw's too short.
That is a special knob/screw with a nylon, teflon or similar bumper on the end so it does not bugger up the column. A few years ago KHB in Canada had replacements. I suspect www.omegabrandess.com would have it as the D5XL is a currently still in production as far as I know.
There is one on ebay USA now, but, like yours, it looks like the teflon end is damaged: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Super-Chromega-D-Dichroic-II-Enlarger-Column-Knob-/330555939797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf6ab5bd5#ht_640wt_1136
ic-racer
1-Mar-2012, 10:47
That is too bad about all the problems. I have repaired Omega enlargers that were worse than that (though they were free ;)) and I am sure Greg Blank has also. So far all the problems I see can be resolved with some $ or elbow-work to get the enlarger as good as new.
The links below may provide some encouragement to continue fixing up your D5:
Durst L1840 Repair and Resotration:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?32852-Durst-L1840-Enlarger-8x10-10x10-Everything-you-wanted-to-know
Durst CLS2000 Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?55947-Fixing-a-Durst-CLS2000-Color-Head
Componon Enlarging lens Disassembly and Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?59159-Junk-Enlarging-Lenses
Repair of DESKMES Durst L1840 Remote Control:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?56808-Repair-of-Durst-8x10-DESKMES-remote-control
Omega D5500 Rubber Filter Wheel Repair
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/93267-omega-d5500-filter-wheel-rubber-repair.html
Omega D5500 Column Deteriorated Rubber Wheel Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?35033-Omega-D5500-repair-parts
Omega D5500 Keypad Upgrade:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/60922-omega-d5500-kepad-upgrade-how.html
Omega D5500 Power Supply; Complete Rebuild From Scratch:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/59904-d5500-power-supply-complete-rebuild-scratch.html
Omega D5500 How to Set Mixing Box Color Probe Offset:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/60663-omega-d5500-how-set-color-probe-offset.html
Chromega II D Head Cleaning and Repair:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/67980-converting-super-chromega-ii-120v.html
Omega D5500 Lamp Socket Replacement:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/100799-omega-d5500-lamp-socket-replacement.html
Oh the end thing that looks like silicone? Its there on my other knob. Though that one's sorta permanently stucked.
Another problem is the enlarger, when lowered, will move back upwards. Its not like this on my meopta. Sigh... I think a call to the seller is inevitable.
That is too bad about all the problems. I have repaired Omega enlargers that were worse than that (though they were free ;)) and I am sure Greg Blank has also. So far all the problems I see can be resolved with some $ or elbow-work to get the enlarger as good as new.
The links below may provide some encouragement to continue fixing up your D5:
Durst L1840 Repair and Resotration:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?32852-Durst-L1840-Enlarger-8x10-10x10-Everything-you-wanted-to-know
Durst CLS2000 Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?55947-Fixing-a-Durst-CLS2000-Color-Head
Componon Enlarging lens Disassembly and Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?59159-Junk-Enlarging-Lenses
Repair of DESKMES Durst L1840 Remote Control:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?56808-Repair-of-Durst-8x10-DESKMES-remote-control
Omega D5500 Rubber Filter Wheel Repair
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/93267-omega-d5500-filter-wheel-rubber-repair.html
Omega D5500 Column Deteriorated Rubber Wheel Repair:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?35033-Omega-D5500-repair-parts
Omega D5500 Keypad Upgrade:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/60922-omega-d5500-kepad-upgrade-how.html
Omega D5500 Power Supply; Complete Rebuild From Scratch:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/59904-d5500-power-supply-complete-rebuild-scratch.html
Omega D5500 How to Set Mixing Box Color Probe Offset:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/60663-omega-d5500-how-set-color-probe-offset.html
Chromega II D Head Cleaning and Repair:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/67980-converting-super-chromega-ii-120v.html
Omega D5500 Lamp Socket Replacement:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/100799-omega-d5500-lamp-socket-replacement.html
Any on column repairing? Mine doesnt wanna stay put!
Erik Larsen
1-Mar-2012, 16:23
Maybe this is obvious, but to make the head stay in place you need to just tighten the knob you have pictured a bit to overcome the spring pressure that is wanting to pull it up. If you do not tighten the knob it will want to rise up no matter what. Maybe I don't understand the problem you are having, but it seems you have all the parts needed to make it work correctly?
Regards
Erik
This part doesn't seem particularly challenging to replace or McGuyver. In basic terms, you just need a clamp so that shouldn't be too hard to improvise. ymmv and good luck.
btw, I'd probably keep it and work on it vs sending it back.
Told the seller to give me two weeks to locate parts, else I send it back in.
Len Middleton
2-Mar-2012, 03:21
I have to respectfully disagree. I see no reason to bring the level of communication down to the lowest common denominator. If someone doesn't understand a term they can always ask. I really don't think I should have to talk about my "4 inch x 5 inch" camera because someone might not know what a "4x5" camera is or "the zone system, which is a system used to determine the most appropriate film exposure and development times for a given subject" because someone might not understand the term "zone system."
Brian,
Sorry if I was not clear.
I agree with you that it should not be the lowest common denominator, and your examples effectively illustrate the potential extreme. However I do think we should try to communicate effectively with some understanding of the diverse make up our LF community here.
I do respect your right to respectively disagree, however I do not expect that to interfere our ability to share an adult beverage and good conversation should the opportunity arise...
Best regards,
Len
Told the seller to give me two weeks to locate parts, else I send it back in.
or better, ask for partial refund. Of course, this all depends on the terms of sale and stated condition of the enlarger at the time.
He described it as perfectly working. I drove 2 hours, bought.
the barn doors are almost closed but were you able to test it out before buying it ? I'd still suggest trying to get a partial refund from him as it would also save you the drive there and back.
ic-racer
2-Mar-2012, 12:53
Any on column repairing? Mine doesnt wanna stay put!
Yes I think that locking screw is very important. Please avoid the temptation to put a metal-tipped screw in there. I helped a friend set up a D3 and the previous owner used a regular bolt in there and it chewed up the column.
This is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Brake-Block-Assembly-for-Omega-Enlargers-/350353139763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5192aca833#ht_1446wt_1136
Thanks for the link! Ill purchase the latest one.
Now now, i can only lower the color head till half the column. Not till the base like on my meopta. Dont tell me i need new counter spring balances.
Anyone have extra counter balance sprungs
I have a complete D2, not sure if the springs are the same. Find out and let me know. I have the lockdown knob as well. I'm in the u.s.
I have a complete D2, not sure if the springs are the same. Find out and let me know. I have the lockdown knob as well. I'm in the u.s.
They should be compatible. Is the knob the first type or second type ? Refer here to determine the type of knob http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Brake-Block-Assembly-for-Omega-Enlargers-/350353139763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5192aca833#ht_1197wt_1029
Cant seem to find the purpose of this black plastic screw, and the metal thing. Even read the manual.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/IMG_0561.jpg
George Richards
4-Mar-2012, 12:50
The metal thing is used to hold the power cord out of the way. Just put the cord in the middle and loop a zip tie or piece of wire around the "ears".
I believe the plastic part (there should be two on each side) is used to provide side to side tension for the chassis. The part inside the frame rubs on the each of the column rails.
ic-racer
4-Mar-2012, 13:11
Oh crud. When I opened the Dichroic head to extract the medium format mixing box, found this bugger out of its place. If possible Id like to remove all of em, as they could use a cleaning. But i cant seem to figure out how to fix this bugger in place.
In the head that I refurbished I used dabs of silicone glue to hold the filters in place.
The metal thing is used to hold the power cord out of the way. Just put the cord in the middle and loop a zip tie or piece of wire around the "ears".
I believe the plastic part (there should be two on each side) is used to provide side to side tension for the chassis. The part inside the frame rubs on the each of the column rails.
Thanks sir!
In the head that I refurbished I used dabs of silicone glue to hold the filters in place.
Wont the silicone glue melt ?
I read on freestyle, the omega d5 xl has a slot to place filters. I cant seem to locate the slot!
ic-racer
5-Mar-2012, 09:20
Wont the silicone glue melt ?
Quote from the manufacturer's specs:
RTV CLEAR SILICONE SEALANT has a
good resistance to weathering, vibration,
m o i s t u r e , o z o n e a n d e x t r e m e
temperatures
ic-racer
5-Mar-2012, 09:21
I read on freestyle, the omega d5 xl has a slot to place filters. I cant seem to locate the slot!
The slots are on the under side of the mixing box. It can hold a stiff filter between the mixing box and the negative.
John Cremati
5-Mar-2012, 10:20
I have 2- D5 XL's with the dicroic heads... I am willing to sell just the head .....On each of my 2 enlargers have a micro precision focus assessory that I am willing to remove and sell seperatley.. I have just about every film carrier and numerous lens boards as well...
John Cremati johnjohnc@att.net
Bruce Osgood
5-Mar-2012, 11:15
Wont the silicone glue melt ?
I have had to rejoin the magenta filter a couple of times and found automotive muffler repair kits work well with the heat issue. The broad end of a toothpick supplies enough 'dope' to hold it for a couple of years.
I have 2- D5 XL's with the dicroic heads... I am willing to sell just the head .....On each of my 2 enlargers have a micro precision focus assessory that I am willing to remove and sell seperatley.. I have just about every film carrier and numerous lens boards as well...
John Cremati johnjohnc@att.net
Ill drop you an email soon. One of the filters for my color head has a chip on the side.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/d27667d0.jpg
Minor crack on the magneta filter.
Anyone willing to part with their unused filters ? Ill buy all 3!
Hmm though I doubt the minor crack will affect the final print. Since I was previously behind the welded piece of metal..
The seller gave me a 70usd refund. I promptly bought the locking knob on ebay. Hope it'll arrive in 2 weeks.
No i only need to mount the filters on the colour head, and i also need a baseboard.
*Also just realised the Omega 4x5 negative carrier crops the sides a little. Ill use the supplied DIY negative carriers made out of glass.
*And my 5" filters dont fit under the mixing chamber. Need at least a 6" filter! The description at Adorama lied (?)
Its not a crack!
Just realised its from the welding done. So I doubt itll have any effects. No amount of cleaning can remove the 'crack' though
ic-racer
7-Mar-2012, 18:57
Just mount that side of the filter so it is toward the lever arm and it won't ever be in the light path.
In the picture mount filter so the bad part is toward the indicated red line or the sides.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v670/ic-racer/DSCF4734-1.jpg
I have just received the knob that locks the column, bought it off ebay.
Now I only need to have a baseboard made..
Chipped the sides of the cyan filter. Damn!
ic-racer
5-Apr-2012, 16:14
Chipped the sides of the cyan filter. Damn!
At least that one does not do anything (in B&W printing).
At least that one does not do anything (in B&W printing).
Cant seem to find the purpose of this black plastic screw, and the metal thing. Even read the manual.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/IMG_0561.jpg
The problem now is the plastic tips are not in contact with the column. I havent the slightest clue how to do so.
I have another column where both plastic tipa are in contact with the column. Is it worth the effort transferring the counter balance springs, and other parts to the other one?
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk37/Danish95/63b16bce.jpg
The other one went in.
Will use only one till I find a replacement.
ic-racer
3-Jun-2012, 09:46
Since the enlarger is still in production you can probably get the springs from omega: http://www.omegabrandess.com
If that does not work, someone on APUG posted that they got springs (not quite the same) from this place: http://www.pullmanbalances.com/
Also check KHB and Harry's ("I have all the Omega Counter Balance Springs in stock. This includes springs for B-22, B-66, D-II, D-2, D-3, D-4, D-5, D-6". -- Harry Taylor (http://www.classic-enlargers.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1141187631/1))
Emailed each and every one of them :)
Just set up EVERYTHING.
I should've set it up in the darkroom. Now I have to push the thing 10 metres to my darkroom.
Curse you 2.25mm allen keys! Need one to level the colour head.
My local hardware store only stocks them in 2mm and 2.5mm :( Need to shave the 2.5mm down I guess
Seems like you're taking the hard way. Even McMaster–Carr doesn't sell between 2 & 2.5. If metric doesn't fit, and it is indeed an Allen type, try English (inch) sizes.
ic-racer
5-Jul-2012, 06:55
Omega = made in USA! You need SAE wrenches! I have a special box of tools just for the Omega as it is one of the few things I own that uses SAE wrenches and hardware.
Guess ill need to make a trip to ACE hardware.
Purchased around 20 allen keys at a local DIY shop. They rust easily.. Around 2USD for 10 pieces.
Just purchased 2 Omega counter balance springs at 25USD each!
Here's an update :
The counter balance springs arrived, and have been mounted on the Omega D5 XL.
Bought some allen keys, aligned the baseboard, negative tray. The color head is about 70% aligned, though it sits flush on the negative tray. Can't align it 100% as the grooves are worn out. Wouldn't cause much of a problem I guess, since the head does not leak light.
Just double checked, the seal on the color head has deteriorated, since the grooves are worn out too, some light leaks can be seen. Ill seal it off with some cardboard everytime I print.. No biggie
You should consider picking up a good color head and use the current one for parts, if you ever need it again. Save the time for photo shooting and real darkroom work.
Reading this thread has reinforced my belief that I did the right thing when I bought my D-6 with condensor head instead of the dichroic head. I had my choice for the same price at the time. Never had any problems with it since initial set-up in my DR three years ago.
One of my chromegatrols just gave in. It powers on, but it doesnt light up the light source. Luckily I was given 2 upon purchase, and recently bought another one off ebay for 100USD.
http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/chromegatrol_repair.html
Exact problem Im facing
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.