Ortho films - APH, APHS, etc.

[jantman]

I'm thinking about trying some ULF pinhole work. Does anyone have experience with films such as Arista APH or APHS, or another cheap Ortho film? There are two reasons why I'm thinking about this film (APHS). First, it's cheap, and I don't want to put a LOT of money into this. Second, it's Ortho, so I can cut it to whatever size I choose and load the camera under safelight.

[David F. Stein]

Lith film works fine for pinhole photography-you can develop by inspection in dilute film developer to get continuous tones, albeit not exactly the same as pan film. Although not necessarily less expensive, paper negatives also work well-I would start with non-glossy RC paper from Ilford or another manufacturer where there is no writing on the back of the paper. Once again, you are now able to develop by inspection. A paper neg might actually work better in maintaining the film plane, handling. GOOD LUCK.

[John Kasaian]

Jason,

FWIW, pinhole with APHS (ISO 3)--- you'll need lots of patience so pack a sandwich(leftover turkey?) ;-)

[jantman]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I'll have to play around with it, and think on the camera design. I was thinking of something AT LEAST 11x14, more likely built for 16x20 or even 20x24. No I haven't thought of how I would carry it in the field.

Yeah, ISO 3 is slow. I did some paper neg work on Ilford MGIV using a barrel lens (8x10). Ended up with something like 6 minutes @ f/45 @ ISO 3.

I'm patient. I'll bring a book. :)

I can't afford to put much TMX in my 8x10, let alone a 16x20.

[Michael Mutmansky]

Jason,

The APHS film is on a very thin base, and you may have trouble keeping it flat in a normal filmholder. If you want a large sheet of it to be placed vertically, you will need to effectively hang it from the top and hold it down on the edges to help keep it from slipping out of the holder.

You could also try using some of that Post-It style adhesive or easy release double-sided tape to keep it held in place.

Other than that, you can use a slow working or low contrast developer to get continuous tone images out of it. If the developer is too fast working, you can add some potassium bromide to it to slow it down, or do a few other things that will do the same thing, and make a continuous negative possible.

Then what? Contact print on silver? It would be easier if you were thinking of an alt process, because they have a higher ES that the litho films are more suited for. It is possible, however, and a great way to experiment without too much expense.

---Michael

[Nick_3536]

http://members.aol.com/fotodave/Articles/LC-1.html

[Michael Mutmansky]

Jason,

The reference that Nick provides is a good developer for this film, but you will have to make some adjustments, because the recommendations are based on alternative process enlarged negatives, which have a very different DR.

---Michael