Platinum printing (and other alternative contact printing methods)

[herbet]

to those that print using platinum and other alternative printing techniques: do you print using the negative or scan to produce a digital negative tunned for printing?

I'm having trouble getting the sweet spot for processing my film to allow for direct printing using platinum. I know that the common advice is to go for contrasty negs with 50% more development than the manufacturer's recommendation but am still not getting a good tonal range. have not trird pyro yet.

In order to try eliminate variables I have started using digitial negatives and got a lot more successes. I just wish I wouldn't have to go through the additional step even though it allows for more control. I'd appreciate some input.

[jp]

Even if you're not doing alt process, it's good to try pyro developers. They can produce beautiful results and in many cases are much more cost effective and longer lasting (in concentrate) than the usual commercial choices. Photographers formulary sells 2-part liquid concentrates for some common pyro mixes.

I use pmk and pyrocat-hd to make negatives which work for silver, cyanotype, and vandyke. Haven't tried platinum yet. Even on these simple processes there are many factors that affect tonal range more than just the negative. Paper choice, # of coatings, brush versus rod for coating, tween/photoflo use or not, etc...

[John Bowen]

I'm new to platinum printing, but my negatives that print well on Canadian Grade 2 Azo (TMY in Pyrocat HD 2:2:100) print very well on platinum/paladium. I haven't tried a digital negative yet, but believe it is in my future....
John

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I print all of my carbon work from Pyro developed negatives. From 8x10 to 14x17. My negatives can be all over the place sometimes and I know how to print them without any problem. I think one needs to learn the controls of the printing process to get the best out of your negatives.

[tgtaylor]

Try developing the negative at least twice the recommended time.

Thomas

[Jim Noel]

I print 8 or 10 of the alt processes. The most important step for each of them is to get a negative that exhibits the appropriate density range and the appropriate maximum density. NO, they are not the same thing. It is possible to get an appropriate DR by producing a D-max too high for the process. This is a common fault with beginners who overexpose and overdevelop.
Testing is necessary to begin start. It is necessary to first determine the appropriate exposure index for your equipment, developer, method of working and final printing process. Once this is done, the next step is to determine the appropriate development time for each process. For instance, a negative for salt prints requires more development than one for platinum.
My suggestion is that you have two possible routes to go. Both require that you use a film in the 100-125 ISO range, or slower. Fast films do not expand enough to produce good negatives for most alt processes.

Route 1: Use the film developer with which you are most familiar to determine your EI and development time for the film.
Route 2: Switch to one of the pyro developers. I prefer pyrocat HD for beginners because it produces a beautiful negative and the concentrate keeps for a very long time. Do your testing with this developer/film combination.

Test prints are a necessity. Even if you have access to a densitometer, you still need to see how the negatives print on the paper of your choice, with the developer of choice.

Best, and most complete source of information - "The New Platinum Print" by Sullivan and Weese. Available from Bostick & SUllivan.
Richard Arentz books also are very complete, but are not as easy to follow if one does not have a strong background in sensitometry and mathematics.

I hope this helps.

[herbet]

thanks everyone for your comments. Jim, I do have Richard Arentz's book but no access to densiometer. I am ordeing some Pyrocat HD from B&S to see how that goes. when using Pyro, should I still develop for longer than the recommended time for silver printing?

[BarryS]

Another vote for Pyrocat HD--an all-around great developer. I've found the same negatives print well on silver gelatin and Pt/Pd. The specific Pyro stain is enough to add the extra uv density (in my experience). Try with some good solid "normal" negs and see how they print. Developing too long will only increase your printing times when it may be unnecessary.