FP4 with what developer in Jobo 3005

[Jordan]

So I decided to try FP4 because of reading on here that it somewhat resembled TXP. I've now used up an entire box and have yet to process any of it. I'll be using a Jobo 3005 and would like to know which developer to use in regards to capacities and extended development times (9 minutes or more). I rated the film at box speed (125). Are there any of the Ilford developers that you guys think would work well? Thanks in advance.

[BradS]

For rotary processing I recommend D-76 (Ilford ID-11). May I also suggest that you download the FP4+ data sheet from the Ilford website. It has several other recommended developers along with development times and other interesting info....

[Vaughn]

I use Ilford PQ Universal Developer with that combination (FP4+ and the 3005), but I am after negatives that have a good amount of contrast for alt printing. I contact print -- Ilford's info does not recommended it for negs needing to be greatly enlarged.

It is a fairly active developer, so it might be difficult to get the development times up to 9 minutes unless you further dilute the developer (Why is that a factor for you? I get even development in the 3005 even at 4 or 5 minutes.)

Capacity at the normal 1:19 dilution for one liter (50ml of stock to 950ml of water) is 5 sheets of 8x10 film in the 3005. So that is 10ml of the PQ Universal developer per 8x10. Development times range from 4 minutes to 8 minutes. Capacities are usually a little under-stated and I have developed five sheets of 8x10 with the developer diluted down to 40ml:960ml, but when I get down to 30ml:970ml, I will often only put 4 sheets of 8x10 in the 3005.

[John Kasaian]

I use D-76. It works just fine for me.

[Liam:]

I use Xtol, lovely tones and cheap!

[edtog]

Same here, XTOL works really well, loads of shadow detail and easy negs to print.

[Jordan]

Ok so Xtol seems like the one that will give box speed with FP4. Others have mentioned D76 which is what I was going to try, but does it give the full asa 125 of FP4. I've used Xtol with Tri-X and have found it to not give the smooth tonality I seek. I stupidly used an entire box of FP4 without doing real testing. I had my tri-x and HC110 down to where I wanted it. I do genuinely appreciate all the input and I'm honestly not trying to be lazy only hindered by time constraints.

[Vaughn]

How is XTOL for expanding the contrast of a negative? I need to expand the contrast for platinum printing and carbon printing -- far beyound the needs of silver printing.

[Jay DeFehr]

Vaughn,

Having seen some of your work and your printing process, I think you would find Hypercat II very interesting, especially if you could be persuaded away from rotary processing. The sharpness is nothing short of phenomenal, and the stain allows for much higher contrast than non-staining developers can deliver. I think it's the ideal choice for high relief work.

[Vaughn]

Thanks, Jay -- I am thinking trying a pyro developer again (it has been many years). I was using Rollo Pyro, but back in the day when one was "suppose" to use a post development staining bath. All that did was up the printing times as it just increased the over-all stain,

It would be hard to give up the Jobo 3005! But I am sharing an 11x14 whose negs are tray processed. So we'll see.

Vaughn

[Allen in Montreal]

......
It would be hard to give up the Jobo 3005! But I am sharing an 11x14 whose negs are tray processed. So we'll see.

Vaughn


Vaughn,

Having seen some of your work and your printing process, I think you would find Hypercat II very interesting, especially if you could be persuaded away from rotary processing........


Vaughn,

Wasn't PyroCat-HD made for the Jobo?
Split run I think, so it uses twice the soup, but might be a good comprise for you?

I bought a handful of kits but have yet to play with as I still have PMK on the go. Once the PMK is done I will try the HD in the Jobo, like you, I really want to process in the tanks as much as possible.

[Vaughn]

Allen, I believe Sandy King does that, but from the very little I have read, it helps to control contrast (as is not letting it get too high) -- which is the opposite of what I want. He scans his negs in and makes enlarged negs on an ink jet printer. I make carbon prints with camera negs, so need to boost contrast at the neg.

Vaughn

[Andrew O'Neill]

Vaughn,

Stay away from split pyrocat-hd if your negatives are intended for carbon transfer printing. Pyrocat-hd as a single solution is excellent (depending on film...not HP5!) for carbon transfer. You can use trays or rotary.
Jordan, use Xtol at 1+1 and increase development time slightly. I've never used any film at box speed so cannot suggest a time... Your shadows will most likely be on the thin side.

[Jay DeFehr]

I think Allen is referring to a technique in which the developer is poured out halfway through development and replaced with fresh developer, and not the two-bath development technique used to tame contrast. The split development technique is used with staining developers that produce excess fog/ general stain in rotary processing, due to aerial oxidation of the developer. PMK is notoriously bad in this regard, and Pyrocat HD is much better. I never use split development with 510-Pyro. Hypercat II is best used with intermittent agitation, and produces virtually no general stain/ fog, because it contains no phenidone. Catechol is extremely clean working on its own, even at high pH, but phenidone is not, and produces chemical fog as pH increases, which is in turn stained by the catechol creating general stain. This is why Pyrocat HD uses Kbr as a restrainer, and why Hypercat II doesn't require one.