Chemical quantity in trays - 20x24 print

[chassis]

Hello,

This seems like a simple question, but I didn't find it here or on google.

Just checking my math - 20x24 prints with the tray filled 1 inch deep = 480 cubic inches of chemical. With 1 cu. in. = 0.016 liters, this equals about 8 liters, ignoring the fact that 20x24 trays are larger than 20x24.

I've never printed this large before, so it will be a new thing for me to use 2 gallons of solution in each tray. I think I should be able to use less than 1 inch of solution depth. Does anyone have opinions on this? For one shot print developer it is a significant consumption from my point of view. Fixer can be reused, and stop bath is cheap.

The prints are not fine art, not for exhibition, etc. The first go-round is to see how my workflow and equipment stand up to the larger size. Thanks for any input/confirmation.

[ROL]

Depends on the size of your trays. One only really needs enough to cover the prints evenly and to allow for depletion according to the number of prints to be run through. Just make sure prints are well covered and not sticking together or facedown to the tray's bottom. Agitation by sloshing will prevent localized chemical exhaustion.

I use 1 1/2 gallons in my 22"x28" Cesco trays for everything from 11X14 to 20X24. That's plenty to allow prints (sometimes 5 or more at a time) to swim freely, with frequent agitation. Occasionally, when proofing 8X10's (same trays) I'll economize with only a gallon.

I use 2 gallons in may largest trays (34X44) when doing mural sizes (up to 32X40). I process one at a time, somewhat longer than normal (2.5 m. dev, 30 sec water stop, and 1 min. TF4 fix), with constant agitation. Because my sink rakes, the prints are often not entirely covered with chemical unless sloshed frequently.

Oh, and mine are for fine art. :p

[chassis]

Thanks ROL.

[AF-ULF]

I generally use 4 liters of developer for 20x24 inch prints. It comes to about 1/2 inch depth. I hold the print face down over the print and curve the print downward. I then quickly roll the print into the developer back and froth so the entire print surface comes in contact with the developer in only a few seconds. I then place the print face down in the developer until the FB paper "relaxes" and flip it over. I then rock the tray for the remainder of the development time.

I also use Ansco 130. It has great keeping properties and can be used again, or mixed 50-50 with fresh developer.

[bob carnie]

My standard for 20 x24 trays is 8 litres of chemicals. If its going to be a big day I use more.

[boris]

once i used 6 liter per tray ...
but then i met mr. jobo and never looked back!
now i need 300ml, the developer is always fresh and i enjoy the darkroom without headeach :)
i would never, never, use trays again !!!

boris

[cyrus]

I love to see the print developing, and this is quite important in how I print too because I need to see how the shadow/highlights come through, so I can't use a jobo. I've found that 8 liters works fine and anything less than 6 liters per tray is too little to get even development and allow the prints to move around - after all I can't really rock a 24 in tray fully of liquid as well as I can an 8x10 tray so I depend on the extra depth of the chemicals to truly saturate and cover my prints. Fixer is reused, and developer is cheap so why be economical?

[bob carnie]

Be really interested in how you would make a lith print or solarization.hmmm.

once i used 6 liter per tray ...
but then i met mr. jobo and never looked back!
now i need 300ml, the developer is always fresh and i enjoy the darkroom without headeach :)
i would never, never, use trays again !!!

boris

[boris]

Be really interested in how you would make a lith print or solarization.hmmm.
well, i would ask a professional printer:p

seriously, i never done a lith print and my last solarisation is 25 years old. for me drum development works great and each time i make a big print, i remember how great live can be.
once, i developed my negatives in trays to...now i came back from a trip with 60 negativs and developed them in the afternoon. i love my jobo drums.

[bob carnie]

Jobo's are great , owned them for years, sadly I have to make a modified system to still use my reels and tanks.

If you need a solarization or lith you can come to me.



well, i would ask a professional printer:p

seriously, i never done a lith print and my last solarisation is 25 years old. for me drum development works great and each time i make a big print, i remember how great live can be.
once, i developed my negatives in trays to...now i came back from a trip with 60 negativs and developed them in the afternoon. i love my jobo drums.

[chassis]

Interesting comments. Can I make a developing tube out of an 8 inch plastic plumbing pipe, sort of how you would make a home made BTZS film processing tube?

The tube wouldn't have to be a "daylight" process, just a container to reduce the amount of chemical and create a manageable agitation device.

I do like to see the print developing in the tray, but I generally develop "to completion" which means 4 minutes in the developer for all prints. I control exposure and contrast in the enlarger (lens aperture + exposure time + VC filters). Therefore seeing the print for me is only aesthetic because my workflow at present is set up for constant development time. I use RC VC paper. Maybe FB or graded paper would cause me to use a different workflow.