Brush Agitation Developing 11x14

[Matthew Hoag]

I understand that brush development yields the most even development on uniform subjects (open sky).

I read an article in View Camera in August 1993 explaining 4x5 brush development which explains almost all I think I need to give it a go.

I have 2 questions: 1) What kind of bristles should the brush have or does it make a difference? 2) How wide should the brush be for 11x14 negs?

Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks & best regards,

Matthew

[Donald Miller]

I use a Hake brush. They are available at a variety of places including hobby stores. I use a brush with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch width on my negatives (8X10 and 12X20).

[Mark_3632]

Here's a dumb question.

What is brush development? Do you really brush the developer on the negative? This does not streak or scratch the emulsion? And last but not least how do you see to make sure you are brushing evenly?

If someone can point me to a source I would be happy to enlighten myself. I did not find anything on this site.

[Terry Roth]

I had very good success using a foam brush, the hake brush sheds terribly. A good quality badger shaving brush will work, as well as a flat watercolor brush of squirrel or sable. Hake sheds hair, especially the cheap ones. A synthetic watercolor flat wash brush, 2 or 3 inches wide, is ideal and not too pricey.

My results were with PMK pyro. I developed 8x10 film emulsion side up in an 8x10 tray, as agitation currents are not an issue--- the downside is that one can only do one sheet at a time. Do not rock the tray, just brush from side to side and top to bottom, alternately, and constantly. You will have to decrease your normal development time about 10-15%, as the brush development results in more efficient transfer of fresh developer to the surface. In "normal" agitation, the boundary layer of exhausted developer is not usually disturbed to much extent. Brush development 'scrapes' it away.

[David R Munson]

While I don't do brush development, I use hake brushes for a number of things. Shedding bristles should only be an issue with lower-quality brushes. Decent hake brushes like these (http://www.dickblick.com/zz054/03/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=399) should go a long time before they start dropping bristles. It seems to be worth it to invest in a decent brush for this kind of thing.

[Michael Mutmansky]

Actually, I think the best Hake brushes are sold as Windsor Newton brushes. They are cheap (very important, IMO), and they don't shed for me at all.

The trick is to get the new brush, and flick off all the hairs that it is willing to easily part with. I work the bristles with my hand a bit to knock loose the bristles as much as possible. Then, run a bead of super glue along the bristles and the wooden holder, put enough glue in there to saturate the bristles, but not too much that it starts to wick out into the unclamped bristles. I normally do this process twice. I'll also run some super glue on the threads that are used to sew the brush together. That will make them less suceptable to streching and loosening as they get wet.

Doing this makes the brushes last a lot longer, and they won't shed much.

Don't go to the store and buy those really small super glue bottles, that's a waste of money. Instead, go to a modellers store and by the real stuff; cyanoacrylate glue. It is available in larger bottles, and different grades of viscosity, as well as accelerators, etc.

Regardless of how much you spend on the brush, I think this is the best way to ensure a minimal amount of hairs, and extend the life.

---Michael

[Matthew Hoag]

Thank you all for your input.

I think it would also be prudent of me to expose a sheet of film at zone V on a uniform subject to test the brush and my technique thus ensuring that the negatives are, in fact, developed unifomly.

Regards,

Matthew

[Terry Roth]

Matthew----for 11x14, a 4 inch brush will work fine. Here's a link to a good art supply site:

http://www.cheapjoescatalog.com/catalog/index.asp

The sewn hake brush David Munson mentions is the only one worth trying, the ones with metal ferrules are not good for what you're intending to do. Eventually even the good goathair hake will shed, my 2c worth is to use a decent synthetic.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

I have been doing brush development for many years, a brush with a metal ferrule is fine, unless you are using PMK. Of course the best ones are the ones with the tied ferrules.

Agitation can be up and down the negative, side to side or a combination, it really does not matter as long as you mantain constant brushing. I preffer to brush lengthwise up and down the negative, but there is really no reason to choose one brushing pattern over another.

All hake brushes regardless of price will shed some bristles. This does not matter as the bristles will not scratch your negative. The problem to look for is the hardening of the bristles, with time, no matter how well you wash the brush they will stiffen and can scratch your negative. Be on the lookout for this.

I use a 4 inch wide brush for 12x20 and 8x10.

Certainly there are many fine brushes which would be good for brush development but you dont need them; Cheap hake brushes are the best, if they shed too much or become stiff just throw it away and get another one, do not spend much money on a brush that will no have any other use. But then, this is up to you.

Good luck hope it works for you as well as it has worked for me all these years.