90mm lens combination for technika v

[Mark_Se]

What combination would offer more rise on a technika V?

- Super Angulon 90mm 5.6 on a flat lens board (doesn`t fit in a recessed l.b)
- Grandagon N 90mm 6.8 on a recessed lens board

I currently own the SA 90mm but on the flat board it is so close to the camera i can bareley get 2 cm rise...
Should i get the grandagon + recessed board?

[Frank Petronio]

I'm not sure.

One option to gain a bit more rise would be to drill the lensboard mounting hole higher than normal, taking into the account the rear of the lens inside the camera. Measure and test, no promises.

Is there any chance the flat board you have is drilled too low?

[Andrew]

I have a master tek with a Nik-SW 90/f8 on a recessed board and I just measured 29mm front rise with no other movements. I don't see why the grandagon should be any different so you may get an extra 9mm?

primarily I have the 90mm on a recessed board because bringing the standard forward makes access to the standard easier [the struts for the drop bed don't get in the way as much].

but there's a swings and roundabouts issue too because it looks like the grandagon has a smaller image circle than your S.A. [221mm vs 235mm]

[Andrew]

hey, let's back up a bit...
isn't the SA 90/5.6 in a Copal #1 ?
if my lens is on a Copal #1 and it's happy in a recessed board what's stopping yours working in one?
maybe you just need a different variation on the theme of recessed board rather than a new lens...

[Mark_Se]

I have a master tek with a Nik-SW 90/f8 on a recessed board and I just measured 29mm front rise with no other movements.

29mm with the flip opened? the technika v doesn`t have that flip...

ps.
there is so much stuff around the shutter i don`t think that there is a recessed lensboard that would fit that lens....
http://up.picr.de/9078531rod.jpg

[Frank Petronio]

Probably not a Prontor, but they mounted Compur and Copal 1 shutters in shallow recessed boards that are quite nice actually. Bob S. knows exactly which board will fit for optimal positioning and maximum movements.

However, "on-the-cheap" you just put it on a flat board and hope for the best. You might cheat by drilling the mounting hole higher on the board so you have some "pre-rise" but it depends on the lens design as you wouldn't want the rear of the lens inside the bellows to be pressing the bellows against the top of the body shell.

You're probably limited to 2cm rise and maybe a bit more if you use the camera sidewise and try using shift in place of rise. The other trick is to extend the rise with the lens standard forward, then slide it back into place being careful no bellows gets pinched.

The newer versions are better in this regard but nothing beats a formerly professional and now cheap monorail with a bag bellows.

[Noah A]

If you want the answer to your question, just look up the flange distance of the Grandagon 90/6.8 (either at the Rodenstock site or use the Ebony lens tables), add the distance of the recess in the board you'd use (Not sure what the genuine Linhof boards are, but I think the chinese knockoffs come in 12mm and 19mm) and place the standard in that position. Then it's easy enough to see how much rise you can get out of the camera.

I use the 90/4.5 on a flat board but as you've pointed out, the flap on the Master (or my MT2000) does actually allow for more rise.

Other than the expensive Linhof board Bob S. is always mentioning, which looks amazing, recessed boards are a major pain in the butt. So that's also something to consider.

You may also consider a 115/6.8 Grandagon. The extra flange distance allows for more movement and it's a wonderful lens.

[Andrew]

oops 1,
I made a typo and said Copal 1 for mounting the two lenses when it should have been Copal #0 !!
my 90 is definitely in an #0 and my reference table says the SA f5.6 should be in an #0 too [though your example plainly isn't]

oops 2,
sorry, i lost track of the technika models and forgot the V doesn't have a top flap like the Master

so yes, the 29mm rise depends on the flap being opened to let the bellows come up further

I also have a Tek IV which has no top flap so it's closer to you V... with the 90mm on recessed board I only get about 20mm rise before the bellows start hitting the inside of the body and stops any further rise. And that's with focus to infinity and no other movements.
I have trouble measuring the board's recess without unmounnting the lens but it's either 12mm or 14mm

on that basis it looks like you're not going to get much more rise from either a new board or a new lens?

fwiw: I don't have a 90mm on a flat board [so not quite equivalent to what you have] but with the 90 in recessed board on the IV can squeeze a few more mm rise by pointing the Tek IV up and then tilting the standards to vertical.
It's not a very convenient series of steps... the technikas just weren't designed to be friendly with wide angle lenses!

PS
Season's Greetings to All

[Mark_Se]

thanks, i have an old "syncro compur" shutter size 0. Can i put the lens in that shutter? do all large format lenses fit every shutter?

[Andrew]

someone will correct me but I thought the *newer* compur 0 were fully interchangable with the copal 0 and it'd be a straight swap [thought I'm not sure about older shutters]
give it a try... if the cells fit it's a simple screw off and screw on. No tools needed.
if they seem to change over correctly ie without bumping the shutter or aperture blades etc, you can always find a technician to double check the fine detail

[Bob Salomon]

hey, let's back up a bit...
isn't the SA 90/5.6 in a Copal #1 ?
if my lens is on a Copal #1 and it's happy in a recessed board what's stopping yours working in one?
maybe you just need a different variation on the theme of recessed board rather than a new lens...

5.6 SA is in a O shutter as is the f8. The 90 4.5 Grandagons are in a 1 shutter.

[Bob Salomon]

someone will correct me but I thought the *newer* compur 0 were fully interchangable with the copal 0 and it'd be a straight swap [thought I'm not sure about older shutters]
give it a try... if the cells fit it's a simple screw off and screw on. No tools needed.
if they seem to change over correctly ie without bumping the shutter or aperture blades etc, you can always find a technician to double check the fine detail

The thread size is the same but the position of the cable release socket is slightly different as is the PC socket