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View Full Version : Efke Print Film (not Efke 25) for Serious Work?



Fragomeni
22-Dec-2011, 15:22
Hi all,

I've been researching this film for a bit but most of the reviews and forum threads I've been able to find are incomplete or rather dead-ended. Is anyone using Efke Print film (which is orthochromatic) successfully for fine prints? I would love to hear the opinions and experiences of someone using this and examples of finished work done with the film would be hugely useful. I'm particulary interested in potentially using this film in ULF cameras but I'd like to hear some experiences and see some results before I approach learning the film as my testing and preperation procedures can get rather drawn out when I'm trying to master a new material. Any help with this would be very much appreciated. Thank you!

Jim Noel
23-Dec-2011, 08:45
I just read the info on this film from the Freestyle web site. They are very honest in indicating that each photographer needs to test to find the best working conditions for them. I suggest obtaining a box and determining your appropriate EI and development time with your preferred developer. That is the only real answer to your question. No more than 9 sheets of film should produce the required results if you use the Nine Negative Test.

J. Fada
23-Dec-2011, 16:29
I have been using Efke PL 100 in 4x5 for a while now. I originally developed it in Pyrocat and wasn't that fond of it but switched recently to Rodinal 1+50 in a Jobo and now I really like it. I generally don't keep track of what film is what when I print, but if I find something I will post it for you. From memory the 100 speed film has a more level sensitivity across the spectrum that the other slower films which seems to be an issue for you based on your comment above.

tedw6
26-Dec-2011, 11:10
I have used a Jobo 3010 and stand development (Yankee tank) with Efke 100 4x5 film and have gotten very good results, esp. from the stand development. I usually go 1.5 hr with agitation (rocking) for 5 sec per minute for the first three minutes. I do a zone system by changing developer concentration. I use Rodinal (Adonal now) at 1:100, 1:200, and 1:300.

Good luck.

Ted

Jason Greenberg Motamedi
31-Dec-2011, 09:45
I have been having a hard time with Efke PL100, most likely due to a flaw in the emulsion.

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=84865