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View Full Version : Hardware To Hold Kodak 2D 8x10 Back



neil poulsen
24-Nov-2011, 19:55
How difficult is it to find hardware that will hold a Kodak 2D back into place on the camera? On the body, there are two clips at the top that also brace the corners of the 8x10 camera, and there's a similar arrangement on the bottom.

Does anyone know a source for these?

ic-racer
25-Nov-2011, 13:26
With some close up pictures of the back, you should be able to make them (or have them made) easily. Assuming they are like the ones on the Century. My camera had all 4 of those clips in place but I needed to make the GG clips. It was pretty easy:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showpost.php?p=278463&postcount=22

Jon Shiu
25-Nov-2011, 15:39
Here are some pictures (I just sold a set). Sometimes you can find a salvaged rear part.

Jon

Chauncey Walden
26-Nov-2011, 09:16
I built an 8x10 point and shoot to use the back from my Century Universal. I made the pieces you are asking about from heavy hobby shop brass strips. They needn't be elaborate. The brass is springy and all you need to do is add the holes in the correct places.

Jon Shiu
26-Nov-2011, 12:19
If you look at the picture, the teeth for the back tilt (there's no front tilt) are also an integral part of the lower brackets. Not easy to make, unless you already have one at hand as a model.

Jon

Michael Roberts
6-Dec-2011, 06:37
Chauncey, ic-racer,
What tools do you use to cut brass--tin snips? other?

Jim Jones
6-Dec-2011, 08:40
Tin snips tend to distort flat material. If appearance isn't important, this can be corrected after cutting. Brass heavy enough for the clips might best be cut with a saw and trimmed with a file. I sometimes use a table saw with a fine-tooth blade for cutting brass. With care it does a neat job.

Dan Dozer
6-Dec-2011, 09:12
I would also recommend that you try a Dremmel tool with a metal cutting disk to cut small pieces of brass - a lot easier than using a hack saw. That's what I used for the brass pieces on my 8 x 20. Jim is right - using tin snips will probably cause you problems and the brass that you will need to use will probably be too thick to use them anyway.

BradS
6-Dec-2011, 09:42
I would also recommend that you try a Dremmel tool with a metal cutting disk to cut small pieces of brass - a lot easier than using a hack saw. That's what I used for the brass pieces on my 8 x 20. Jim is right - using tin snips will probably cause you problems and the brass that you will need to use will probably be too thick to use them anyway.

Great tip...Thanks!

Jon Shiu
6-Dec-2011, 09:50
I've used a manual miter saw with a fine tooth blade to cut brass stock. I bought it at a picture framing store.

Jon

Michael Roberts
6-Dec-2011, 16:48
I would also recommend that you try a Dremmel tool with a metal cutting disk to cut small pieces of brass - a lot easier than using a hack saw. That's what I used for the brass pieces on my 8 x 20. Jim is right - using tin snips will probably cause you problems and the brass that you will need to use will probably be too thick to use them anyway.

Hi Dan,
I will try this. How easy/hard is it to cut curves? I would like to duplicate the original springs if possible. Also, will I need to file the edges or does the disk leave a clean edge?

Thanks,
Michael

John Koehrer
6-Dec-2011, 16:54
For curves a jewelers saw would be appropriate. They look like a hack saw but the blades are about 1/16" tall and you can get several tooth counts.
Micro tools is one source.

Dan Dozer
6-Dec-2011, 19:32
Hi Dan,
I will try this. How easy/hard is it to cut curves? I would like to duplicate the original springs if possible. Also, will I need to file the edges or does the disk leave a clean edge?

Thanks,
Michael

Cutting outside curves is possible but not all that easy, but inside curves would not be possilble with the cutting wheels. The wheels I use are about 1 1/2" in diameter. You can cut the outside curves in straight segments and then nibble away at the corners that are left. You can also use the outside surface of the cutting wheels to smooth out the curves a little.

Hand holding a dremmel while cutting means that your cuts won't be perfect and you will need to clean up the edges with a file. However, brass is pretty soft and easy to file smooth. Get a small file with "small teeth" that is for metal work, not one with big teeth that is for wood work.

There are tons of different cutting bits/wheels for dremmel type of tools. Check them out and see what you think will work.