Cleaning LF Lenses?

[colotonphoto]

What techniques and approaches do you all use to clean fingerprints, rain drops, and other stuff from fragile LF glass? I have been building my collection of LF glass across the past couple of years, and I want to make sure i treat them properly. Gone are the days when I could just wipe my UV Filter that rests over my Nikkor 35mm lenses with a t-shirt... Thanks in advance for your advice.

[cyrus]

This is what I tell my friends:

First, don't clean unless absolutely necessary. Far more damage is done to lenses by unecessarily and inept cleaning than by dirt on the lens. In fact there is no requirement for lenses to be perfectly clean. Certo6 used to have a picture of a photo he took with a giant dead bug between his lens elements - and the photo was fine. Also, lens glass isn't ALL THAT fragile. If you touch it, you don't destroy it.

Second, if you do clean, use the right stuff. Non-abrasive tissue with real lens cleaner fluid.

Third, use a soft brush and canned air (not blowing with your mouth) to blow off the larger chunks of dirt that can scratch the lens.

Fourth, then moisten some clean tissue with lens cleaner, and gently stroke the lens with it, dragging it over the surfac0e of the lens. Repeat a couple of times with new tissue.

Fifth, use dry tissue to dry the lens but don't vigorously rub the lens with the tissue.

Sixth, use a clear filter to protect the lens.

[BrianShaw]

I do cyrus's first through fifth, but not the sixth. For third I like a "squeezy blower" rather than canned air. I also use a clean T-shirt on occasion and have never seen a new scratch because of it. Scratching could happen, of course...

[E. von Hoegh]

It's better to keep your lens clean, than to keep cleaning your lens. I keep a cap and or a filter on if I think the lens is likely to collect dirt/debris.

I use a brush or blast of air to get anything loose off, then Kodak tissue with a bit of isopropyl to remove any greasy/sticky stuff.
Just remember, never apply pressure to the glass.

[DrTang]

whatever happened to those radioactive brushes ?


they seemed to work pretty good

[lenser]

For years, I've been very pleased with the lens pens, including the removal of a huge area (like two big postage stamps and she was ready to abandon the lens) of some kind of deposit on a friend's digital lens that would not come off with tissues and cleaners, but which disappeared immediately with the felt pad of the lens pen. I did fog that lens first by breathing on it.....something I usually avoid, but it needed a bit of moisture other than a traditional cleaner.

ALWAYS, use the brush to first remove any lint or dust. Then go on to the pad if needed.

As Cyrus says, don't do anything other than brush off the dust, unless it is absolutely needed.

[lenser]

DrTang,

Staticmasters? Those had a fairly open plutonium insert and they may well have been banned.

[Steve Hamley]

Polonium. It's not the same.

Cheers, Steve

[E. von Hoegh]

I think there was one containing americium as well.

[colotonphoto]

Thank you all. I really appreciate the guidance. I will make sure I avoid any smudges, blower first, then careful application with lens cleaning solution and a lens tissue. Much appreciated.

[Peter De Smidt]

Never use dry "lens cleaning tissue", such as Kodak Lens Tissue, on a lens. It is meant to be used wet.

[goamules]

I try not to put any finger pressure on the tissue. Just let the bead of liquid wet the tissue piece down to the glass, and rotate the lens in a circular motion on the counter, moving the bead to the outside. Then get another piece of tissue and repeat. I sometimes use 8 or 10 pieces. All it takes is one tiny grain of dirt to make a cleaning wisp, but if you carefully float them all off first, there won't be a scratch.

[John Kasaian]

I've been known to use vodka :D

[Ari]

I've been known to use vodka :D

With or without a Brillo pad? :)

[Alan Gales]

This is what I tell my friends:

First, don't clean unless absolutely necessary. Far more damage is done to lenses by unecessarily and inept cleaning than by dirt on the lens. In fact there is no requirement for lenses to be perfectly clean. Certo6 used to have a picture of a photo he took with a giant dead bug between his lens elements - and the photo was fine. Also, lens glass isn't ALL THAT fragile. If you touch it, you don't destroy it.

Second, if you do clean, use the right stuff. Non-abrasive tissue with real lens cleaner fluid.

Third, use a soft brush and canned air (not blowing with your mouth) to blow off the larger chunks of dirt that can scratch the lens.

Fourth, then moisten some clean tissue with lens cleaner, and gently stroke the lens with it, dragging it over the surfac0e of the lens. Repeat a couple of times with new tissue.

Fifth, use dry tissue to dry the lens but don't vigorously rub the lens with the tissue.

Sixth, use a clear filter to protect the lens.

This is excellent advice!!!

About a year ago I sold my 35mm Zeiss lenses that I purchased back in the early 1980"s. A fellow who bought one of my most used lenses could not believe the condition it was in. The glass looked mint! He asked me how I took care of my lenses and I gave him basically the same advice that you just gave.

[John Kasaian]

With or without a Brillo pad? :)
Sometimes an olive. Sometimes an onion. Sometimes a tiny umbrella. But never a brillo pad:rolleyes:

[domaz]

ROR is my favorite lens cleaner now. Everything else leaves smudges for me. I use it with clean soft microfiber cloth.

[E. von Hoegh]

With or without a Brillo pad? :)


No no no! Sheesh. Lenses are precision instruments, needing extreme care to preserve the finely finished surfaces and coatings. Never use anything other than 0000 steel wool and Bon Ami cleanser.



:D

[Jim Noel]

I never use a liquid on my lenses on the outside chance some of the liquid wilfind its way between the elements.
I obtain activated charcoal capsules at the health food store. empty 3 or 4 capsules into a 35mm film cannister or similar. Using original Q-Tips, dip one end into the charcoal then tap it to remove al surplus. clean the lens in concentric circles.

The lenses come out sparkling clean and I have never had a scratch from the procedure.

As an aside look at lens tissue under s strong magnifying glass or microscope. You will never use them again - they are like sandpaper.

[ROL]

I've been known to use vodka :D

Indeed, I find it best to be as relaxed as possible before attacking an expensive lens.:D

[Doremus Scudder]

I agree about not cleaning lenses when not necessary. Also about using a (clean, dedicated for the purpose) soft-bristle brush to gently brush away particulates before cleaning.

After that, I depart a bit from "accepted" procedure. Years ago, when the micro-fiber cleaning cloths came out, I was working at a camera store. A sales rep came in selling the new cloths. I, being the skeptic I am, decided to give on the acid test. I grabbed a Kodak gel and gave it a vigorous cleaning with the micro-fiber cloth with no fluid. When the gel emerged unscathed, I was sold. Most of the "cleaning marks" I've seen on lenses ended up getting there with lens-cleaning tissue...

For me, a clean micro-fiber cloth and a bit of distilled water (ever-so-carefully deposited on the lens with a light exhaling of breath) is the standard. If I need more solvent action, I'll use lens cleaning fluid or an alcohol mix, but this is only rarely needed. And, before you all start scolding about the dangers of breathing on a lens, yes, I know one is not supposed to spit on a lens, but, a gentle exhale with the lens held so that the glass is perpendicular to the ground only deposits a bit of distilled water, which ends up being wiped away or drying anyway.

Best,

Doremus

[Bob Salomon]

I never use a liquid on my lenses on the outside chance some of the liquid wilfind its way between the elements.
I obtain activated charcoal capsules at the health food store. empty 3 or 4 capsules into a 35mm film cannister or similar. Using original Q-Tips, dip one end into the charcoal then tap it to remove al surplus. clean the lens in concentric circles.

The lenses come out sparkling clean and I have never had a scratch from the procedure.

As an aside look at lens tissue under s strong magnifying glass or microscope. You will never use them again - they are like sandpaper.

Then why do you think that large format lens manufacturers (German) use liquid to clean lenses in their factory?

[E. von Hoegh]

Then why do you think that large format lens manufacturers (German) use liquid to clean lenses in their factory?

+1. The thought of using carbon on my lenses makes me cringe.:eek:

I put the fluid on the tissue, anyway.

Edit: Cleaning marks come from improper cleaning, by applying pressure to abrasive particles (whether loose on the glass or carried by whatever you use to clean the lens) as you move them around the lens surface.

[cyrus]

The best cloth I have discovered for cleaning lenses is washed silk. I had an old and very beloved vintage silk Hawaiian shirt that now serves that purpose

[Steve Hamley]

I like the large Microdear which is apparently only sold state-side by Adorama, followed by the small, then large Promaster cloths.

http://www.amazon.com/Microdear-Microfiber-Deluxe-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B0002E3WGI

http://www.amazon.com/ProMaster-6121-Promaster-SoftClean-Cleaning/dp/B00092KPKE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322086066&sr=1-1-catcorr

http://www.amazon.com/MicroClean-Cleaning-Cloth-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00092GCTW/ref=pd_cp_e_3

I have learned from cleaning old lenses I've purchased, that the small Promaster is too "slick" to clean grunge, but it's my first choice for getting very light spots/fingerprints, etc off modern multicoated glass. The large Promaster has a chamois-like surface rather than slick like the small ones, and the Microdear is sort of in between. If I could only have one I believe I'd take the Microdear.

Cheers, Steve

[Bob Salomon]

I like the large Microdear which is apparently only sold state-side by Adorama, followed by the small, then large Promaster cloths.

http://www.amazon.com/Microdear-Microfiber-Deluxe-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B0002E3WGI

http://www.amazon.com/ProMaster-6121-Promaster-SoftClean-Cleaning/dp/B00092KPKE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322086066&sr=1-1-catcorr

http://www.amazon.com/MicroClean-Cleaning-Cloth-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00092GCTW/ref=pd_cp_e_3

I have learned from cleaning old lenses I've purchased, that the small Promaster is too "slick" to clean grunge, but it's my first choice for getting very light spots/fingerprints, etc off modern multicoated glass. The large Promaster has a chamois-like surface rather than slick like the small ones, and the Microdear is sort of in between. If I could only have one I believe I'd take the Microdear.

Cheers, Steve

Try the Giottos, the Tetenal or the Rodenstock.

[Steve Hamley]

I may well do that Bob, I go through the smaller ones pretty quickly sometimes. If one gets pretty soiled from old glass, I toss it. I also like to use new cloths on expensive multi-coated lenses, and Kodak lenses. A cloth isn't worth re-using on expensive glass, which really should be another lens cleaning tip.

A couple of weekends ago, I was doing a pano shot using my Fuji 600C on a new-to-me camera. Somehow, I managed to not get the board locked and the lens fell off the camera. Amazingly, I caught it, juggled four times in front of someone's face, and caught it! Equally amazing is that the lens of course had no caps on it, and I got only the slightest fingerprint on the front cell. I broke out a new cloth to clean it as I did not want to leave a fingerprint on the coating, optically negligible though it was.

Cheers, Steve

[Bob Salomon]

I may well do that Bob, I go through the smaller ones pretty quickly sometimes. If one gets pretty soiled from old glass, I toss it. I also like to use new cloths on expensive multi-coated lenses, and Kodak lenses. A cloth isn't worth re-using on expensive glass, which really should be another lens cleaning tip.

A couple of weekends ago, I was doing a pano shot using my Fuji 600C on a new-to-me camera. Somehow, I managed to not get the board locked and the lens fell off the camera. Amazingly, I caught it, juggled four times in front of someone's face, and caught it! Equally amazing is that the lens of course had no caps on it, and I got only the slightest fingerprint on the front cell. I broke out a new cloth to clean it as I did not want to leave a fingerprint on the coating, optically negligible though it was.

Cheers, Steve

Microfiber lens cloths are designed to be washable. As long as you hand wash in a mild detergent, rinse well and air dry they are reuseable many, many times. But since we sell cloths (we introduced PhotoClear in the USA way back when) we appreciate your buying more of them!

[Steve Hamley]

Bob,

I do re-wash and re-use cloths, but they usually get moved down the "heirarchy".

New - modern expensive multicoated or delicate coatings like Ektars tend to be; and
Washed and clean - uncoated glass, more durable single coated glass, common or cheaper lenses.

Anything below this cleans my cheap reading glasses until I decide to toss them.

I understand what you're saying, and you're probably right, but it seems like false economy not use a new $5 - $7 cloth if I need to wipe off a lens that would cost a couple of thousand or more to replace. Which by the way is not that often.

If you're getting lenses truly dirty on a regular basis, you're probably doing something wrong or working under fairly unique circumstances if you can't use a filter to protect the glass if needed. BTW, fog and condensation usually evaporate leaving no marks if you just leave the lens alone. Fog and condensation are basically distilled water.

Cheers, Steve

[swmcl]

I'm now a fan of kerosene throughout (shutter, barrels, glass ...) on really old lenses. Kero seems to not affect the black paint on lenses as much as an alchohol. After everything is well cleaned in kero then use the glass cleaner (Windex) then the alchohol if really necessary.

I find some old lenses with a buildup of gunk that must be a mixture of wax and oils etc and kero is quite gentle and effective in dissolving this. I reckon kero might knock fungus around a bit too.

New lenses? I don't touch them if possible. My footfall is very light around new lenses - prevention is better than cure here.

[Once]

Microfiber lens cloths are designed to be washable. As long as you hand wash in a mild detergent, rinse well and air dry they are reuseable many, many times. <snip>

All good except not mentioning that the water to rinse with should be distilled, not from a a water tap. As it dries up it leaves all the unseen secrets hidden in it.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

I'll be a prince :D

just Google ' Carrand CRD45076 MicroFUSE Towels 30 Piece Roll # 45076 '

they are full sized micro-fiber paper towels, cut to size, use once and never worry.

Absolutely perfect for cleaning optics of any sort.