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Aaron_3437
6-Oct-2003, 06:48
I've used Tri X with HC110 for some years and had been pleased with the result. As Tri X is no longer available in my area, I've had to switched to FP4+ developing with D76(1:1). I must say I'm not happy with the FP4+/D76 combination. The prints from Tri X seem to have a "presence of light" that I find lacking in FP4+. I hope people here understands what I'm talking about (I'm not technically inclined so I hope I'm not talking rubbish). So for those who are using FP4+ with great success, please tell me which developer is best for this film and why. Can I get the "light" in FP4+ as I did for Tri X? Or do I change a different film altogether. Thanks.

Carl Weese
6-Oct-2003, 06:58
First, you'll find you need to give FP4 a lot more exposure to get it to mimic the "light" you found pleasing in Tri-X. I've found that ei. 32 with reduced development is needed to open the shadows with this film in normal developers. It also has something of a hair-trigger development response, so plus and minus developments are more needed and more critical than with many other films. The best solution to all this that I've found is to use PMK pyro developer. The speed actually increases to about ei 64 and the tonal range is much smoother and more accepting of varied luminance ranges.---Carl

George Hart
6-Oct-2003, 07:05
Aaron: I suspect that you could get as many different replies as there are people using this film! FWIW I am happy with the tonality of FP4+ in 1:1 Perceptol, which I prefer over D76/ID-11. Approx 8 min at 20 degC works well in my setup.

tim atherton
6-Oct-2003, 07:09
out of interest aaron, where are you that you can't get tri-x now?

Robert Lowe
6-Oct-2003, 08:23
I've had excellent negatives from FP4+ using HC-110 dil B. Currently, I've been using ILFOLSOL S with pleasing results.

Aaron_3437
6-Oct-2003, 08:28
Carl, my current ei is 50. I suppose I could adjust to ei. 32. with a slight reduction in development. Pyro developer isn't an option for me as it's considered hazardous chemical here in Singapore. As for plus & minus development, could you kindly elaborate further (I understand the zone system). I am assuming you meant exposure/development should be ideally manipulated close to a six-zone span to get the needed contrast. Thanks.

George, In what way is perceptol ideal over D76/ID11 to you. Thanks.

Tim, Singapore. We're a small market. Can understand why Kodak refused to bring it here. Thanks.

Ralph Barker
6-Oct-2003, 09:06
FWIW, Aaron, I shoot FP4+ at ISO 100, and develop it in Ilford DD-X, mixed at the recommended 1:4 dilution. DD-X seems to provide a nice balance between fine grain and good accutance. Plus, the liquid concentrate is quite convenient for small batches. Although EI rating and corresponding development can vary widely with individual work styles, it sounds like your EI of 50 and corresponding under-development may be producing negatives that are too flat and "lifeless" for your tastes.

David Hedley
6-Oct-2003, 09:27
Aaron; I'm also in Singapore - where do you get your film? (I normally get mine on trips to Japan).

George Hart
6-Oct-2003, 10:26
Aaron: I prefer the tonality with Perceptol, in particular in the middle part of the zonal scale. I use plenty of exposure but short dev times, so avoiding too much "compensation" which you can get with this developer. The pain is that it comes as a powder. I don't like the tonality of Perceptol with T-grain films like Ilford Delta, though.

Craig Schroeder
6-Oct-2003, 12:10
Some recent testing on 6X9 FP4+ roll films found FG7 @ 100 and Exactul Lux at 80 to give that nice glow I seek and very printable negatives. This was my first experimenting with tanning developers (the ExLux) and I couldn't be more pleased with the results, especially in contrasty light. The FP4 contrast can get away from you quite easily and one needs to practice restraint in the developer! The compensating nature of the ExLux took care of that. The FG7 negatives had a better tonality on FP4 than my D76 results. I had recommendations of Diafine with FP4 but I didn't care for the look that I ended up with at all. It had its own look but a bit too "soot and chalk" for my eye.

Aaron_3437
6-Oct-2003, 12:11
Ralph, You're right! My FP4+ negs are a little flat and "lifeless." At ei50, I actually do not have trouble in the shadow area. In fact, I'm quite guilty of over-exposing it one half-stop further, at times. I've always thought that accutance might just do the trick. I think DD-X isn't available here. Wonder if anyone's tried Rodinal.

David, Ilford products are sold at Ruby Photo in Peninsula Shopping Centre. The FP4+ are on indent basis but you'll have to be willing to wait 2-3 months. I'm shooting 5x7 (probably the only one doing this format here). There's a fair chance you could get HP5+ or even TMax in 4x5's at the shop. However, several months ago, I was told by the shop that Ilford isn't making LF film anymore. I didn't think it was true (and still don't) even though they sounded quite serious.

Aaron_3437
6-Oct-2003, 12:26
Thanks George. I'll keep Perceptol in mind and might just try it if available. As you can see, lots of stuff aren't sold here.

Craig, Exactul Lux is new to me. I'll look it up. Thanks for the introduction.

mark blackman
6-Oct-2003, 12:52
Aaron, I always use Ilfotec HC at a 1+31 dilution. 8 mins in a hand-tank (Doran), or 7:15 in a Jobo Expert tank, at 20 degrees centrigrade. I rate it at 100 ASA, but am not afraid to over-expose by upto 1 stop if I have a lot of shadow detail.

Hans Berkhout
6-Oct-2003, 16:01
I use Rodinal 1:84. Great tonality and edge effect. However for high contrast subjects I am favouring HP5+ in PMK because it gives me better separation at the higher end when compared to minus development in Rodinal. Of course it depends on which paper you print on; I use mainly Forte Polygrade.

tim o'brien
6-Oct-2003, 17:34
Your supplier was mistaken I believe. It's Agfa that isn't making LF film anymore. I have not heard peep one of Ilford getting out of the sheet film market.

You are in a tough position getting 5x7 film though. I suspect you always need to plan ahead, not one of my better attributes.

tim in san jose

James Phillips
6-Oct-2003, 18:12
Hans,

I am curious as to your EI and the development times that you are using. After reading your answer I am tempted to give it a try. I gave up on Rodinal with Tri-X but recently put some HP5 Plus through the 1:50 mix. Now I am re-considering my decision.

Perhaps your FP4 + Rodinal might encourage me to try Rodinal again. Also you should try to contact Eric as he is forming a LF group in the city with the first meeting this month sometime. If you need more information then please email me.

Kind Regards,

Hans Berkhout
6-Oct-2003, 19:45
Hi James,

I should have said Rodinal 1:75. With an E.I of 80, develop at 24 C, for 9.5 minutes. One tends to loose some speed with Rodinal but the results are worth it. I don't think that HP5+ in Rodinal is a good combo, remember vaguely that John Hicks explains that somewhere on the net- I have never tried it. N-1 would be 7.5 min, and N+1 13 minutes. I use destilled water.

The slightly higher 1:84 dilution works very well for me with Tmax100 or whatever it's called, in 35 mm.

Rob Barker
7-Oct-2003, 01:38
ID-11 1+1, with the film rated at ISO 100. Gives an element of grit and drama, which I like.

Rob Barker
7-Oct-2003, 01:41
On behalf of Andrew O'Neill..

Can you get Xtol? I lived in Japan for years and couldn't get it so I always had to order from Canada. I find that Xtol gives more punch to shadows than most developers. You could always mix your own vitamin C developer.

Aaron_3437
7-Oct-2003, 06:31
Thanks to all for contributing. I think I'll run a couple of test on high acutance developer. Rodinal used to be available here (hope it still is). Tetenal Neofin and Paterson Acutol may be available too. I'll head for the shop soon.

Ole Tjugen
7-Oct-2003, 11:36
Just to add to the confusion:

I use Pyrocat-HD for "normal" negatives, Divided D-23 for moderate compensation, Maxim Muir's extreme compensating Pyrocatechin for extreme contraction. For expansion I have used monobath... I used to use Ilfosol-S for 120 film, then switched to DD-X. Since then I've switched to Beutler's (which is more or less the same as Neofin Blau).

Terry Hull
24-Jun-2011, 08:14
I typically rate FP4 at 64 for normal development in Rodinal(16 minutes 1:50) but don't have current accesss to Rodinal, and exposed the film at 25 due to 6 zone spread between minimum shadow/minimum highlight zones, to be developed in Ilfosol 3. What dilution and time can you suggest? Hope I am not infringing on this thread but it seemed similar. Thanks.

Thanks

matthew klos
24-Jun-2011, 12:54
I pretty much only use FP4 in both roll film and sheet. I started out using it with HC-110 and i hated the look of that, i also thought that it increased the grain ten fold when enlarging to big prints which most of my work is at 20x24 above. I than switched to PMK, and i liked that quite a bit, but was finding problems with the extra fog on the base and streaking at times with tray development, so i than switched to Pyrocat HD and i seem to like the look of that quite a bit.

Leigh
24-Jun-2011, 13:32
I've been using Diafine for 8x10 FP4+ tray development, and have been quite pleased with the results.

I generally spot-meter the shadows @ box speed and increase exposure 1/2 to 1 stop depending on scene contrast.

- Leigh

bbuszard
24-Jun-2011, 13:42
I've been using it pretty consistently for almost 2 years, developed in Xtol 1:1, and like the results. I'm surprised that some need to drop the ISO down so far. My zone 1 speed test puts it right at ISO 125 in my particular soup.

Ken Lee
24-Jun-2011, 14:50
This thread is 8 years old.

SW Rick
24-Jun-2011, 14:53
Not any more! :)

What's old is new again.....

Leigh
24-Jun-2011, 21:05
This thread is 8 years old.
WAS eight years old, and still of contemporary interest.

A lot has changed since 2003, and not for the better. :(

- Leigh