Old Film - Color Correction - RDP-I

[jantman]

Hello,

I have two corrections.

First, I just bought a box of RDP (the original RDP - RDP-I). I was wondering if anyone has a data sheet on it that they could send me a copy of?

Also, it's quite old, I assume that it will have shifted color a bit. I've never had to do it before (I don't shoot much color and usually only new stuff) and am wondering how to go about testing for and correcting a shift in the color balance.

Is it only trial-and-error, can I try using viewing filters over the chrome? As for on-camera correction, what type of filters are used?

[Bill Jefferson]

Jason, Whats the expiration date ?

Bill

[Ted Harris]

Jason, waiting to hear the expiration date on the film but if it is the original RDP my guess is that you are looking at something like 8-10 year old film. Depending on how it has been stored you are likely looking at way more than a bit of a color shift. Couple tht with the fact that the stuff had less than pleasing colors to begin with; one of the reasons that Fuji kept changing it till they got it right.

[jantman]

The film is dated 11/95.

I'm a total beginner at SERIOUS color work, I've never even worried about color correction before. I need HELP. How do I got about this? I'll shoot a few test sheets, one of them with a gray card and color chart. I have two main questions.

1) How do I find out the data on this film? Fuji hasn't responded to my request for a datasheet. Can I just use standard tables for filtration for long exposures? They'll be over 1 second.

2) Once I have test sheets done, how do I compensate? Must it be done in printing, or can I filter in camera? How do I decide how much filtration to use and what type?

Thanks.

[David A. Goldfarb]

1) Not sure, but pursuing it with Fuji seems like the right approach. Also, open the box in the dark to be sure there isn't a data sheet in there, like there used to be! If not, you might also ask Freestyle if they have one on file that they could photocopy and send you.

2) Shoot a few test shots, bracketing exposures to determine speed, and then look at the results on a daylight balanced light table with color viewing filters, as you mentioned above, to determine correction needed, if any. You can filter at the taking stage (usually better) or at the printing stage.

Normally I would do my test shots with strobes, since they have consistent output and remove the issue of shutter consistency, and then confirm the results by shooting some daylight scenes.

Since you're using a barrel lens, this makes things more complicated. Long exposures could result in reciprocity issues (RDP III has very good reciprocity characteristics, but I don't know about RDP I--I remember it produced nice greens) and color shifts, setting aside the question of the age of the film.

On the other hand, you might just calibrate around your actual shooting conditions--say a daylight exposure of at least two seconds (use a metronome set at 120 and subdivide in your head to four beats per second, and it is possible to be very accurate) with whatever ND filtration you would normally use, and then you will determine film speed and color correction for the kinds of exposures you actually make.

Run the tests in clear daylight, not shade, overcast, or the "golden hour" so that you'll have real photographic "daylight" without any color shifts of its own. If you're photographing a scene with a color chart and grey card, don't forget to calculate the bellows factor (which there will be if the color chart is close enough to read).

[Sal Santamaura]

Jason, from the 1995 Fujifilm Data Guide I just came upon:

"Reciprocity Characteristics for Fujichrome and Fujicolor Films

Fujichrome 100 Professional D [RDP]

1/4000 to 1 second: None

4 seconds: 5M, +1/3 stop

16 seconds: 10M, +2/3 stop

64 seconds: Not recommended"

Bear in mind that original RDP had a yellow bias even when fresh. Also, typical RDP aging means it's probably gone magenta by now. If you're really lucky, your shooting conditions will call for exposures times that need just that degree of magenta correction and everything will turn out reasonably neutral. Good luck!