Holding a Speed Graphic steady

[psychoanalyst]

Hello,

I had maybe a stupid/naive question.

I got in LF 2 months back and I have been playing around with a Speed Graphic.

My question is what is your technique for loading the film holder such that the camera position does not change?

I have a Pacemaker with a spring back and I find that the process of inserting the holder into the back inevitably leads to some camera shake and I am in a situation where I am not sure if the focus has shifted or not.

As you can imagine this is a class catch 22 situation because I will be stuck in an infinite loop trying to be absolutely sure that the subject is still in sharp focus.

I have compared my pictures, and as of now it is difficult for me tell if my "not so sharp" negatives are a result of focusing issues.

I would appreciate you sharing your techniques and general advice.

Many thanks.

Avi

[Jim Jones]

I find it too easy to rotate the camera while inserting the film holder, but if you lock the focus down after focusing, at least that shouldn't move. You can use the sports finder after framing and focusing, and again after inserting the film holder to see if the camera has moved. With a spring back I usually hold the camera steady while prying out the ground glass assembly. This makes inserting the film holder easier.

A careful analysis of unsharp images should show if the problem is a focus error or camera movement. A sturdy tripod is the large format photographer's best friend. If it is a focus error and you are using a rangefinder, it could be the rangefinder not accurately tracking focus. If you are focusing with the ground glass, it might be a problem with the position of the ground glass or with focusing technique. Occasionally film will buckle or sneak out of its grooves.

[Leigh]

Camera shake and focus shift are two different things. Shake refers to the image blur associate with movement while the shutter is open.

Focus shift will occur if the camera is moved forward/backward between the time it's focused and the time the exposure is made. The same error will occur if the subject moves.

Back when these were used for press photography, shooters tried to maximize depth of field by using the smallest possible aperture (largest f-number) for a given lighting situation. This minimizes the focus error problem, but can aggravate the camera shake problem.

Are you using a tripod? That's generally considered good practice for any LF work.

Does your camera have a rangefinder (side- or top-mounted)? If so, is it adjusted correctly for the lens in use?

- Leigh

[Michael Clark]

My speed graphic came with a 127mm lens, which has a pretty good depth of flied so I could use the scale on the bed to guess-ta-mate the distance with a large fstop or use the range finder and the wire sports finder. No need to use the ground glass to focus,its kind of fun too.
Mike

[Frank Petronio]

Does the ground glass image' focus match what the rangefinder tells you is in focus? The ground glass is most likely the accurate focus, rangefinders can go out of sync.

Then I'd compare your steady tripod shots to your handheld ones of the same static subject and see if it is handheld technique that is causing blurring.

[Michael Clark]

Frank, its not exacly the same as the ground glass, but if you are going to use it hand held like a 35mm camera with the 127mm lens it will get ya in the ball park.Hell put a hat on with a press pass and a flash gun and pretend your a reporter for the Daily Planet.

[Frank Petronio]

Micheal, I was speaking to the original question, not commenting your experiences (which jive with mine).

To the original question, I am wondering if his rangefinder might be wacky? (or worse, that the ground glass is mounted in the wrong position?) before seeing if he is shaking the camera as he is firing it.

Another thing contributing to shaking might be how you release the shutter - if the mechanism on the Speed is gummy it might be stiff, perhaps try it with a light touch or a cable release?

[Michael Clark]

Ok,now I get you .

[Leigh]

It's not unusual for both the rangefinder and the focus scale on the bed to be wrong due to the camera being set up originally for a lens different than the one currently mounted.

The ground glass focus is always correct unless the camera has been damaged.

- Leigh

[psychoanalyst]

folks...thanks a lot for your response.

I think I have done a pretty bad job of explaining my problem. I use all the normal precautions of holding the camera steady....tripod, cable release etc. I also almost always shoot with my Optar at f16 or lower (smaller apertures). In addition, my rangefiner sits in a small bag in my closet since I removed it from my graphic to reduce unnecessary bulk. So, I ONLY use the GG.

I was more interested in knowing your exact technique for loading the film holder AFTER you have achieved sharp visual focus. The issue I see is any camera movement due to the act of loading the holder will go undetected until after you have developed and scanned the negative (of course large movements can be caught using the wire frame finder). See the example below. This is clearly a result of camera movement due to film loading since all other parameters were kept constant and it is the exact same scene in both shots. My question is how do you avoid this issue? Avi

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6099/6279428293_8e557da2d7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/smiling_buddha/6279428293/)

[Dan Fromm]

Avi, you're confusing camera rotation (changes the framing) with camera translation (movement fore-and-aft along the lens' optical axis, moves the plane of best focus fore-and-aft). When you shoot from tripod, translating the camera on inserting a film holder is impossible.

In your two example shots the magnifications are different. The fuzzy shot was taken at higher magnification -- shorter camera to subject distance -- or the two scans aren't equivalent.

In the fuzzy shot, the branches on the left show motion blur. This is more likely due to wind than to your having abused the camera before taking the shot. If it is due to camera movement during exposure your camera is not securely attached to the tripod head or the head is not securely attached to the tripod or you kicked the tripod as you took the exposure. None of these errors is rare, I've done all three, sometimes two together.

Try again with an immovable subject that has controllable depth. Classic examples of include a picket fence (for a not very close trial) and a newspaper taped to a wall (for fairly close). Set up to shoot both with the film plane at a 45 degree angle to the subject. Mark the vertical line of best focus on the subject. Shoot, process the film, and examine the neg or tranny at high magnification to see whether the line of best focus in it coincides with the intended one marked on the subject.

[Leigh]

One possible cause, although I've never actually seen it happen...

The camera back may not be seating properly when you remove the holder, causing a focusing error on subsequent exposures. This could occur intermittently.

I agree with Dan that there is motion apparent in the first image.

- Leigh

[Jim Jones]

Yes, the one shot is out of focus, and with no apparent camera movement during exposure. Your technique eliminates the possibilities that Liegh suggests in his last post. Do you lock the focus after focusing and before inserting the film holder? The focus lock on the Pacemaker is better than in some other cameras. Is there play in the front standard or lens board? Was the front standard locked down tightly? I've had defective polarizing filters cause a focus shift, but wouldn't expect this from most 81A filters. You could check this possibility on the ground glass with a loupe. An aside: the filter factor for an 81A is 1/3 stop. Your exposure with the filter was almost 1.5 stop greater than without it.

[Jim Jones]

Ah, you two type and think faster than me. The image size is the same in both examples, although the cropping isn't identical. The branches that appear to show movement suffer from poor bokeh, as do a few of the fainter pinpoint highlights. That certainly looks like movement in a long thin highlight, but the pinpoint highlights don't show it.

It's unlikely that the ground glass in a Pacemaker isn't securely mounted, but that is another remote possibility.

[Leigh]

Your technique eliminates the possibilities that Liegh suggests in his last pos.
No, it doesn't.

It's possible for the back to not seat properly after you remove the film holder.

When you set up for the next shot and focus on the GG, there will be a significant error in that exposure.

Admittedly this is an unlikely scenario, but I can't think of any likely scenarios that would cause the OP's problem.

- Leigh

[Bill Suderman]

It looks like the movement took place during exposure because the highlights look larger on the left image than those on the right. My personal experience has taught me to use a longer cable release than needed and be sure there is a generous loop in it so I do not unknowingly tug on it when tripping the shutter. I always tap the film holder before insertion into the camera, being careful to have the holder in the same orientation as it will be in the camera. This light tap will cause the film to slide down in the holder. Then it won't move down when the shutter relase action takes place. Another possible is film pop during exposure. This is more common in warmer weather when warmth from the sun on the camera heat everything up. Oh, I should mention that when you tap your holder as mentioned above, all dust in your holder will shift. Should I add that an occasional holder cleaning is a good idea?

Wish you well in your adventure into LF, the more you get into it, the deeper the hole becomes. As long as there is film to expose, the deeper (and more fun) it is.

[Jim Jones]

No, it doesn't.

It's possible for the back to not seat properly after you remove the film holder.

When you set up for the next shot and focus on the GG, there will be a significant error in that exposure.

Admittedly this is an unlikely scenario, but I can't think of any likely scenarios that would cause the OP's problem.

- Leigh

I agree.

[psychoanalyst]

Once again my inexperience has got the better of me and I have done another bad job of explaining the pictures.

They are crops as Jim mentioned (and Jim...I type faster than I think!:), but different sized crops. The differences in exposure are because they are different. They were shot with Velvia and I overexposed one of the shots.

Bill.....I have close to 100 sheets of Fomapan for exactly that....test, learn, test, learn....go bankrupt, then test some more, learn some more!:)

[Leo Salazar]

Hello Avi, I use my SG usually on a tripod but do take the odd hand held shoot and have no focus issues. The way I do it is: compose with the front standard wire rod and the round aim circle above the ground glass.
Focus on the ground glass and lock tightly the focus rail -it will move out of focus if you don't lock it-.
ej. If it's during the day in open areas I place exposure aprox. by the f/16 guideline and as I use either Efke of Ilford FP-4 my speed will be around 1/125s.
I do keep the speed up to offset shake.
I cock the shutter and make sure I see the actuation on the groundglass then cock for the shot.
I then place the holder in position and take the darkslide out.
Check composition with the wire rod and circular aim and shoot.
It sounds like it takes longer than it really is and I have no focus problems.
I do this with a 127mm to a 150mm... nothing longer.
Unless you do have a problem camera, your image focus will be lost if you either shake or the focus rail moves.
You should not loose focus on an subject by shifting the camera placement by inches based on your f stop / depth of field / speed.
Hope this helps.
Leo

[Dan Fromm]

Avi, you haven't told us how you focus. In detail, I mean. In particular, what focusing aid do you use and how do you use it?

I've had similar problems -- inconsistent focusing -- and have always worried that the problem was due to the equipment. Every time I've tested calmly and systematically -- do what I suggested, don't dick around with unsuitable targets -- I've found that I was the source of the problem. It almost always came down to misuse of my loupe. I now use a 3.6x Toyo that works well with most of my lenses in most situations when I make sure it is planted firmly on the GG. Tilting it a little is much too easy.

When I go a-shootin' my mantra is "My camera is good, I am bad." Consider adopting it.

One other point. Scanning is evil, sorry, one more place for errors to arise. If you want to know what's in a tranny or neg, examine it directly.

[jnantz]

it might be more "inexpensive" to practice shooting with
paper negatives instead of sheets of film. paper costs pennies
instead of dimes or dollars.

you could set up a "still life" or photograph near your darkroom / home / studio
and process your paper soon after you expose it, to see what is going on ..

my uneducated guesses are --- maybe your ground glass is the wrong thickness,
or fresnel isn't positioned correctly or when you lock your focus rail,
your front standard moves a tiny bit, or there is something funny with your
lens cells not being seated in the barrel right ...

stopped down to f16 most things should be sharp

[John Koehrer]

#3 has obvious camera movement, If you look carefully at the vertical branches on the left side there are double images. From the parallel characteristic of the doubles it's horizontal movement.

[Jim Jones]

John, it indeed has the appearance of camera movement. However, if there were horizontal branches with similar illumination, they would show the same suggestion of movement. The blur from dim point sources have the donut blur of poor bokeh, but not any blur from movement. This bokeh does lead to the appearance of movement, but movement in all directions. The donut apearance isn't obvious in the blur from brighter point sources because those highlights are blocked up.

[jp]

I think most of what's been spoken is off topic, except for talk of the camera moving while the film holder is inserted. I wiggle the camera a little to make sure it's snug on the tripod as I finish composing. Sometimes just a little tighter on the tripod is all that's needed. As far as inserting the film holder, I just slowly insert the film holder after pulling back a little on the spring back. Sometimes I grip onto the top left front of the camera, since I can grab hold of the body and make sure it's not going to move, and push open the back with the film holder. After the film holder starts to go in, straighten it out and insert it straight in. Other times, I use the left hand to pull back the springback a half inch while still touching the camera body, and gently insert the film holder in. Once it's in, I gently slide it into position.

You may need to remove the spring back, clean up the surfaces and re-assemble it too if it's a camera that hasn't been used for a long time.

[Herb Cunningham]

You can shoot speed/crown graphics hand held all day long if the rf is synched properly.

I have shot weddings back in the day and never had any issues with out of focus.

The movement of the tripod mounted camera when inserting the camera is quite often a problem, but using two hands, one to hold the camera steady and pry the back open while carefully inserting the holder should take care of the.

That said, I like bails on view cameras, Zone VI has one on its 4x5's.

[psychoanalyst]

I think most of what's been spoken is off topic, except for talk of the camera moving while the film holder is inserted. I wiggle the camera a little to make sure it's snug on the tripod as I finish composing. Sometimes just a little tighter on the tripod is all that's needed. As far as inserting the film holder, I just slowly insert the film holder after pulling back a little on the spring back. Sometimes I grip onto the top left front of the camera, since I can grab hold of the body and make sure it's not going to move, and push open the back with the film holder. After the film holder starts to go in, straighten it out and insert it straight in. Other times, I use the left hand to pull back the springback a half inch while still touching the camera body, and gently insert the film holder in. Once it's in, I gently slide it into position.

You may need to remove the spring back, clean up the surfaces and re-assemble it too if it's a camera that hasn't been used for a long time.

JP....bingo....this is exactly what I was referring to. I went out and shot again today...have not developed the pictures yet, but I can still see no solution to the problem.

The spring is so tight that I find it near impossible to insert the holder in without actually shifting the camera slightly...

Avi

[Dan Fromm]

JP....bingo....this is exactly what I was referring to. I went out and shot again today...have not developed the pictures yet, but I can still see no solution to the problem.

The spring is so tight that I find it near impossible to insert the holder in without actually shifting the camera slightly...

AviInteresting. With distant subjects, small movements of the camera -- no more than several meters -- don't shift the plane of best focus noticeably. Yet here you are obsessed with the possibility that a slight shift of the camera's position on a tripod head will ruin the shot.

Your analysis of the problem you have -- the problem is real -- is wrong. Let go of it and start over from as close as you can get to first principles.

[Frank Petronio]

When I would shoot handheld I'd sometimes drop the camera down to load and rely on muscle memory and a firm, planted stance to return the camera to same position. I am sure it was "off" by an inch or two. But considering as long as I wasn't shooting something close, I never saw the point in worrying about what mathematically works out to a 0.01% error on a middle distance shot. I know the rangefinder wasn't accurate to that degree, or even the gearing of the focusing track....

[psychoanalyst]

Interesting. With distant subjects, small movements of the camera -- no more than several meters -- don't shift the plane of best focus noticeably. Yet here you are obsessed with the possibility that a slight shift of the camera's position on a tripod head will ruin the shot.

Your analysis of the problem you have -- the problem is real -- is wrong. Let go of it and start over from as close as you can get to first principles.

Dan,

I think you are right. I need to shoot some more and learn from the exposures and stop fretting about equipment as you mentioned earlier.

But the spring back is a PITA in my opinion. Do other cameras have the same kind of film loading system?

Thanks.

Avi

[Dan Fromm]

View cameras have, broadly, three kinds of backs.

Spring back, also called Graphic back, like your Speed's back. The focusing panel is held against the camera body by leaf springs, is pushed away from the body (against spring tension) to insert a film holder.

Graflok back, also called international back. The Graflok back's focusing panel is held against the body by a pair of spring-loaded arms, the springs are coils. The focusing panel can be removed completely to let a Graflok accessory -- roll holder, Grafmatic sheet film holder, binocular viewer with integral ground glass, ... -- be attached. Film holders insert between the focusing panel and body as with Graphic backs.

Proprietary slotted backs. With these the focusing panel has grooves on the edges, slides into matching "ridges" (sorry, coffee hasn't kicked in yet, can't think of the right word). To attach a film holder, slide the focusing panel out, slide the film holder in its place. The Graflex back (named after Graflex Inc. and predecessors' Graflex SLR cameras) is a variant.

Short answer, you're stuck. What kind of film holders do you have? Have you tried waxing their edges or the surfaces they slide over?

Earlier in this thread I suggested some exercises to check how well you focus your camera. I didn't make the suggestion idly. I have focusing problems from time to time, swear at my gear every time, and then start testing. Every time I go through them I've found that my gear is OK and I'm not.

So, what focusing aid are you using? Naked eye won't do.

[Jim Jones]

. . . Do other cameras have the same kind of film loading system? . . .

Some view cameras, Calumet for example, have a bail that swings out to relieve the pressure of the focusing panel against the film holder. This makes inserting the holder easier.

I agree with Dan. What appears to be sharp on the ground glass may be conspicuously unsharp in a closely examined print or monitor image.

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks for adding one to the list, Jim. Funny thing is that I have a bail back for my little Cambo, and didn't think of it. Old age is getting to me.

[psychoanalyst]

View cameras have, broadly, three kinds of backs.

Spring back, also called Graphic back, like your Speed's back. The focusing panel is held against the camera body by leaf springs, is pushed away from the body (against spring tension) to insert a film holder.

Graflok back, also called international back. The Graflok back's focusing panel is held against the body by a pair of spring-loaded arms, the springs are coils. The focusing panel can be removed completely to let a Graflok accessory -- roll holder, Grafmatic sheet film holder, binocular viewer with integral ground glass, ... -- be attached. Film holders insert between the focusing panel and body as with Graphic backs.

Proprietary slotted backs. With these the focusing panel has grooves on the edges, slides into matching "ridges" (sorry, coffee hasn't kicked in yet, can't think of the right word). To attach a film holder, slide the focusing panel out, slide the film holder in its place. The Graflex back (named after Graflex Inc. and predecessors' Graflex SLR cameras) is a variant.

Short answer, you're stuck. What kind of film holders do you have? Have you tried waxing their edges or the surfaces they slide over?

Earlier in this thread I suggested some exercises to check how well you focus your camera. I didn't make the suggestion idly. I have focusing problems from time to time, swear at my gear every time, and then start testing. Every time I go through them I've found that my gear is OK and I'm not.

So, what focusing aid are you using? Naked eye won't do.

Dan,

Thanks for all the advice. I will definitely implement it. I will work on the focusing experiment you suggested next weekend.

How I focus: there are 2 ways really.

1. I have a Polaroid MP4 reflex viewer which I attach to the back (after removing the focusing hood) using bungee cords and then compose and focus. I find this extremely handy, since I am not yet comfortable with an upside down image.

2. If I find the above too cumbersome (which I do), I simply use my Toyo 3.6X loupe to focus.

I may try waxing the film holders (I believe they are fidelity elite holders)...

Avi

[Michael Cienfuegos]

If your Speed has a spring back and the holders are tight, you can also put a small washer under the springs holding the back. This was suggested by Les at the graflex.org forum. It really works, I was able to use my grafmatic holders on my older Speed Graphic and have had no problems with light leaks.

[E. von Hoegh]

I'm going on the assumption that you are using the camera on a tripod.
First, be certain that your loupe is properly focussed on the GG. Remove the lens, or point it at something without texture and focus the loupe so you can see the texture of the glass sharply. Lock or tape the focus adjustment in this position.
After focussing the image on the GG, lock the focus knob or rail. Be certain that all locking devices on the tripod are tight. I open the spring loaded part of the back, then gently slide the filmholder in while bracing the camera with my other hand. That is, the force required to insert the filmholder is taken by my supporting hand, rather than transmitted to the tripod.

I don't have a Speed, sorry to say, but the 4x5 I have has the same type back. I use regular holders and occasionally a Graphmatic.

[Bill Suderman]

Avi,

Any new test shots? You have been given many points to consider; keep notes, my friend, I warned that the "hole" will only get deeper...but what fun falling in! You will begin to recognize specific parts of an image coming from very specfic conditions at the moment of exposure. And on it goes.

Bill

[psychoanalyst]

Bill,

I did take some shots over the weekend...developed a couple, but have not got the time to scan and process yet....will do that within the next few days.

It is great fun, but now I have another hole to fill...my shutter speeds may be off!!:((

Avi

[awldune]

This might be a dumb question, but are you shoving in the film holder in one-handed? It helps a little to pull the GG frame up with your left thumb as you insert the holder.

Otherwise, if you lock down the tripod head firmly and have the camera screwed on tight, it should not be easy at all to rotate the camera while loading.

[psychoanalyst]

Avi,

Any new test shots? You have been given many points to consider; keep notes, my friend, I warned that the "hole" will only get deeper...but what fun falling in! You will begin to recognize specific parts of an image coming from very specfic conditions at the moment of exposure. And on it goes.

Bill

here is a sample shot from my last weekend outing. Is this really as sharp as it gets? The pictures I have seen from you guys blow mine away in terms of image clarity and sharpness....this is so depressing!:(

Conditions: Fomapan 100 shot at 200 (I am still working on exposures, so I want to focus on image sharpness for now);

f16 for 1/2 sec using front shutter; developed in D76 1:1 @ 20C rotary processing for 8 mins. Fixed for 10 mins. Washed in photoflo and scanned in Epson 2450.

Thanks a lot to all of you for working so patiently with me.

Avi

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6215/6334593420_77a12af63b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/smiling_buddha/6334593420/)
[/url]

Crop

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6053/6333838629_889bf9fe69.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/smiling_buddha/6334593420/)
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/smiling_buddha/6333838629/]

[psychoanalyst]

This might be a dumb question, but are you shoving in the film holder in one-handed? It helps a little to pull the GG frame up with your left thumb as you insert the holder.

Otherwise, if you lock down the tripod head firmly and have the camera screwed on tight, it should not be easy at all to rotate the camera while loading.

I have never really paid attention. I will work on it this weekend and update you.

Thank you.

Avi

[Dan Fromm]

Avi, the problem with trial shots like the one you just posted is that they make it hard to see where the plane of best focus actually is. That's why I suggested shots taken at 45 degrees to a picket fence or brick wall. Also, underexposure and overdevelopment both reduce sharpness.

Focus on one problem at a time. Thinking of focus, which of your focusing aids did you use?

[jp]

It's pretty clear your focus is off quite a bit there. The bricks in the background appear sharp, but not the steps. For further testing of focus, shoot some wide open images rather than f16. What are you using for film holders? Are you focusing with the groundglass rather than a rangefinder? Fomapan 100 is often derated to 50 or 64 depending on the developer chosen. Yours look really well exposed for 200; perhaps the shutter was a little slow to even things out?

[psychoanalyst]

Avi, the problem with trial shots like the one you just posted is that they make it hard to see where the plane of best focus actually is. That's why I suggested shots taken at 45 degrees to a picket fence or brick wall. Also, underexposure and overdevelopment both reduce sharpness.

Focus on one problem at a time. Thinking of focus, which of your focusing aids did you use?

Dan,

I will shoot some more this weekend with your suggested setup.

I use my Toyo loupe to focus.

Thanks.

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

It's pretty clear your focus is off quite a bit there. The bricks in the background appear sharp, but not the steps. For further testing of focus, shoot some wide open images rather than f16. What are you using for film holders? Are you focusing with the groundglass rather than a rangefinder? Fomapan 100 is often derated to 50 or 64 depending on the developer chosen. Yours look really well exposed for 200; perhaps the shutter was a little slow to even things out?

JP..I have removed the rangefinder from my camera...so GG focusing only.

I will shoot wide open too..

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

Try again with an immovable subject that has controllable depth. Classic examples of include a picket fence (for a not very close trial) and a newspaper taped to a wall (for fairly close). Set up to shoot both with the film plane at a 45 degree angle to the subject. Mark the vertical line of best focus on the subject. Shoot, process the film, and examine the neg or tranny at high magnification to see whether the line of best focus in it coincides with the intended one marked on the subject.

Dan,

Would a test subject like the one shown here work:

http://photo.net/learn/focustest/

Avi

[Dan Fromm]

Dan,

Would a test subject like the one shown here work:

http://photo.net/learn/focustest/

AviYou've sort of got the idea, but the target Bob shows is intended for use closeup. Since you're working at normal distances, a picket fence or brick wall will do. Don't forget to mark the point of focus so that you can tell where you focused when you examine the negative. And don't examine <expletives deleted> scans, examine the <expletives deleted> negatives.

How much extension do you typically use and how tight is your Speed's focusing tension adjustment? I ask because with a lot of extension the bellows may pull the front standard back a little after focus has been achieved if the tension adjustment is loose.

[Bill Suderman]

How frustrating for you, but, although probably not relevant to this, I'd like to suggest checking the tightness (or loosness) of the lens elements. I have had the front element on my lenses unscrew when removing a filter or lens shade. A few years ago, I got a nice deal on a LF lens bought online. The previous owner had managed to reverse the front and back elements and thought the lens was defective. With the help of several polaroids, I figured out what was wrong. Now I no longer remember which lens it was, it went into my bag and I use it right along with all the others. What ever is the problem, it seems to be at/in the camera.
Scratching my head, best to you in solving this.
Bill

[john biskupski]

As said above, you need to inspect the negative for sharpness, with say a 6x loupe. That will lay to rest whether your negs are sharp or not. Softness in the scan can arise in many ways - but that's a whole different thread. But from your last examples, I can't see how camera position shift on loading the film holder could be the source of any sharpness loss. In such a composition, and providing everything else is locked down, that could cause minor misframing (as the camera swings on the tripod). If the negs are indeed unsharp, then it's probably a camera/lens issue. If as you say the GG image is sharp before you insert the holder, that excludes a number of causes, but then there may be problem between the position of the film plane vs the GG plane. You may want to have the back (which you say is extra-stiff) looked over by an experienced LF user. And I would check that the GG with it's fresnel panel are seated in place in the correct order.

[IanG]

John's just identified one possible issue. However first I'd check how well the front standard is locking to the rails, I have a Graphic were there was a problem (which is easily tightened) and I've also had focus creep with the same camera, fitting a DDS (Film holder) is nough to cause creep of the focus track if it's not locking tightly. So check that as well.

Some Speed & Crown Graphics came with a factory fitted fresnel, this sits under the ground glass screen (lens side). It the fresnel's been removed the glass then sits too deeply in the focus frame (closer to the lens) and would need shimming.

The focus frame for camera's with no fresnel from new is slightly different, and if you then add a fresnel it needs to be on the outside in this case.

Checking this, which is called the T distance, requires some measurements and tools.

Ian

[psychoanalyst]

Thanks guys..I am going to do the test Dan suggested and check the negs instead of the scans. You are right...the scans can be misleading.

About to place an order for a cheap loupe and a lightbox on Amazon. Any recommendations on a cheap lightbox? Can't afford fancy ones.

Appreciate all your help.

Avi