India

[mamanton]

Hello hello!

My wife and I go to India for 3 weeks in January. I am in any case take the large format with me. Linhof Kardan Master L 13x18 )) I plan to buy a hard case for flight, and there walk with a backpack.
Tell me, please, who was in India, what the local reaction to the large format, which will be tips, funny stories ... useful information...

Thanks!

[John Kasaian]

I've really only spent a little time (2 weeks) in the Khali Temple area in Calcutta and the people where so poor that I felt using them for photographic subjects would be demeaning to them.

However, that is one small neighborhood in India.

I think by and large there is great beauty there---both natural and architectural as well as the people. I would strongly suggest hiring a guide. If you wonder into an area like Khali Temple you'll be mobbed by curious onlookers and without a native guide to get you through to where you're going---well you'll waste a lot of time. I had a Sihk (sp?) driver who was incredible helpful---your hotel can arrange for a trusted guide.
Have fun & don't drink the local beer (really, don't!)

[John Kasaian]

Or the corn flakes. Don't do it!

[John Kasaian]

Oh, start taking you malaria tablets when you get to India. Buy them over there as they've got better ones that will defeat the current strains encountered in India.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Its been a very long time since I have been to India (1990 and 1999), but John's advice on hiring a local guide/driver is good one. I found the reaction to my 5x7 to be positive, but sometimes had a difficult time working since there was always someone standing in front of my camera looking in the lens.

I don't remember the beer being that bad, and Kingfisher is fine.

[John Kasaian]

Its been a very long time since I have been to India (1990 and 1999), but John's advice on hiring a local guide/driver is good one. I found the reaction to my 5x7 to be positive, but sometimes had a difficult time working since there was always someone standing in front of my camera looking in the lens.

I don't remember the beer being that bad, and Kingfisher is fine.

Jason, the beer we had has a picture of a Tom selleck looking dude dressed up like Clint Eastwood in one of those spaghetti westerns on the label. It contained formaldahyde and guaranteed a brutal hangover.
Distilled liqour is prohibitvely expensive so if you want to see some very happy faces, bring in a couple of bottles of scotch with you and gift it to your guide and concierge when checking in. You'll be treated like royalty!

[Frank Bunnik]

Where in India are you going? I have been all over the country, except for the far east and Gujerat, so I might be able to give you some tips. There are some images on my website.

Kingfisher is indeed a fine beer. Nothing wrong with it. There are some holy towns where alcohol is forbidden and they serve you "special tea" (beer in a tea pot). I remember sitting in a garden restaurant in Madurai (Tamil Nadu) a few years ago. The garden wall had a big sign (about 2 meters wide) painted on it: ALCOHOL STRICTLY FORBIDDEN! The waiter comes up to me and the first thing he asks is "you want beer?"

www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

While we are on the subject of alcohol, it is worth remembering that Muslims make up a significant part of the population, and giving a bottle of scotch in public to a Muslim may not go over as intended...

[E. von Hoegh]

While we are on the subject of alcohol, it is worth remembering that Muslims make up a significant part of the population, and giving a bottle of scotch in public to a Muslim may not go over as intended...

... no matter how much he may appreciate it in private.

Probably a good idea to be discreet no matter who the recipient may be.

[mamanton]

I've really only spent a little time (2 weeks) in the Khali Temple area in Calcutta and the people where so poor that I felt using them for photographic subjects would be demeaning to them.

However, that is one small neighborhood in India.

I think by and large there is great beauty there---both natural and architectural as well as the people. I would strongly suggest hiring a guide. If you wonder into an area like Khali Temple you'll be mobbed by curious onlookers and without a native guide to get you through to where you're going---well you'll waste a lot of time. I had a Sihk (sp?) driver who was incredible helpful---your hotel can arrange for a trusted guide.
Have fun & don't drink the local beer (really, don't!)

Thank you John and Jason! Ya, I think it's a good idea about driver (if it's not very expensive)).
I think we'll be drink some scotch or vodka before dinner for disinfection ))

[mamanton]

Where in India are you going? I have been all over the country, except for the far east and Gujerat, so I might be able to give you some tips. There are some images on my website.

www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

Frank, we're going to Tamil Nadu. We want to land in Chennai and go down the coast to the south. And we wanted the North - in the Kulu Valley- valley of gods, where lived Rerikh, but it's probably some other time - in January, there will be cold.

So, Tamil Nadu, and then we are open-minded...

[mamanton]

While we are on the subject of alcohol, it is worth remembering that Muslims make up a significant part of the population, and giving a bottle of scotch in public to a Muslim may not go over as intended...

Ya, I know. I've already been in the Middle East )) Unfortunatle, now it's closed for turists.

[mamanton]

While we are on the subject of alcohol

May be after all alcohol I need 5x7 camera with autofocus? )))

[mamanton]

There are some images on my website.
www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

Nice fotos. In what season have you been in Ladakh and Himalays?

[John Kasaian]

FWIW the US Consul often hosts a "casino night" by invitation only. A jumbo package of toilet paper for the Marine embassy guards might land you an invite (Indian toilet paper was nothing to write home about)

[cyberjunkie]

Take it easy!
Nothing to worry. India is one of the most interesting countries, and really a photographer's dream!
It is one of the safest countries, too. Don't be fooled by the exotic and by the huge differences between India and any western country.
Maybe the country (should i say continent?) is not as safe as it used to be, but it's still way safer, mostly everywhere, than most european and USA cities.
I have spent almost 1 1/2 years in India, in total, and roughly as much in neighboring countries: i've never been subject of any act of violence, and never got robbed of anything. I must admit that i have been to a few questionable places, like illegal immigrants ghettoes, or street prostitutes and drug dealers places, in the middle of the night, and never had to fight or run away, just a few shouts, as the most aggressive measure.
The very few crimes i've read about, in recent years, were caused by the breach of the most basic safety rules: don't go on a long treck alone; if you are a young girl, don't go out at night with male indian youngsters; etc. etc.
Those mistakes can be caused by the excess of safety perception, once you get a little used to the peaceful and un-aggressive behavior of the indian people.
99.99% of them are as helpful and as friendly as a human being could ever be, but you have to understand that the very, very few bad apples congregate in the usual places: crowded tourist spots, major railway stations, outside of the airport, etc. etc.
Most of the times it would only affect your wallet, nothing more. The only way out, until you understand how it works, is to buy a Lonely Planet guide and learn beforehand how you shoudl behave. For example, if you land in a major airport, like Delhi or Mumbai, you can go to a taxi counter, where you book a taxi, and pay in advance the correct rate. If you trust any of the supplicants that will come your way, you'll end up paying double or even quadruple the current rate.
On the other hand, for each one of the cheaters that do their best to part you from a little of your money, you'll find ten or more indian citizens that would go out of their way to help you, or please you in any possible way.

I am very sorry to be of no help about Tamil Nadu. It's one of the very few (three or four at most) indian states that i didn't visit.
Just one thing, don't miss the Auroville ashram, close to the former french colony of Pondicherry, and take a trip to the mountains, if you can't stand the climate of the city, when you're just arrived.
Remember that Kerala is not that far, and that Trivandrum/Thiruvantapuram can be easily reached by bus and plane. Close by there is the old famous sea resort of Kovalam Beach. I don't know how much it has developed since i been there. At the time there was just one major hotel, the other accomodations were nice bungalows, just behind the beach, under the palms shade.

Kulu valley is a heavenly place, but you must go there at summer.
I've been told that Manali has developed in a major tourist place. There are lots of smaller places, though.

You'll find as many photographic subjects as you could dream of, maybe even more...
The main problem will be clearing the front of your lens from the curious people that will be attracted by your camera, like a magnet.
If you look elder and/or have white hairs, the curious fellows would probably stay at a respectful distance. If you are/look younger, answer a couple of questions, then make it clear that they must get out of the way. Don't be too rude, the word "privacy" has almost no meaning for the majority of them: you'lll be asked very personal question, it's up to you to answer or not. :D
What you could deem as an harassment, could be a perfectly acceptable behavior for many of them.
Of course these problems happens when you travel to smaller centers, in most big cities the people are much more... "westernized". On the other hand, the India of the villages is what mostly deserves your visit, and there you'll find countless incredible subjects for your pictures.
A small suggestion: bring a backpack for your LF camera, you could rent a bike and drive wherever you like to go. You'll find a lot of calm, wonderful places, where you don't have to spend most of the time getting people out of your picture :)
Beware of heavy vehicles. The rules is: the bigger one goes first!

One caveat: India could be addictive.
I started my photographic affair with that part of the world on 1977, in Afghanistan.
Since then i visited most eastern countries, and i still feel in love with them as the first day.
Unfortunately i had to quit my traveling about 8 years ago.
I hope to go back, once and for all, when i retire.

contact me via PM if you have any question

have fun

CJ

[mamanton]

Take it easy!
Nothing to worry. India is one of the most interesting countries, and really a photographer's dream!
It is one of the safest countries, too.
Just one thing, don't miss the Auroville ashram, close to the former french colony of Pondicherry, and take a trip to the mountains, if you can't stand the climate of the city, when you're just arrived.
Remember that Kerala is not that far, and that Trivandrum/Thiruvantapuram can be easily reached by bus and plane. Close by there is the old famous sea resort of Kovalam Beach. I don't know how much it has developed since i been there. At the time there was just one major hotel, the other accomodations were nice bungalows, just behind the beach, under the palms shade.

You'll find as many photographic subjects as you could dream of, maybe even more...
The main problem will be clearing the front of your lens from the curious people that will be attracted by your camera, like a magnet.
If you look elder and/or have white hairs, the curious fellows would probably stay at a respectful distance. If you are/look younger, answer a couple of questions, then make it clear that they must get out of the way. Don't be too rude, the word "privacy" has almost no meaning for the majority of them: you'lll be asked very personal question, it's up to you to answer or not. :D
What you could deem as an harassment, could be a perfectly acceptable behavior for many of them.

A small suggestion: bring a backpack for your LF camera, you could rent a bike and drive wherever you like to go. You'll find a lot of calm, wonderful places, where you don't have to spend most of the time getting people out of your picture :)
Beware of heavy vehicles. The rules is: the bigger one goes first!

have fun

CJ

WOW, thank you CJ for many words! One of the most important thing I wanted to hear - that it's one of the safest and interesting country!

For sure, we'll go to Auroville )) And I'll read about other places that you suggested.

I look quite young, so perhaps I'll have to wind the protective filter on the lens, and stock up on wipes))

I have a question: is there some phrases in Hindi, that must be learned before the trip, and apply in the case of what?

Bike - it's a cool idea!

and where you are reloading the holders with the film? I'm going to buy a Harrison pup tent. But where better to recharge? On the street? or in a cafe? or in the hotel?

Thanks again! My best wishes!

Anton

[flycatcher]

That's nice to hear. I'm an Indian living in Bangalore. I own a modest 4*5 gig and have been shooting some black and whites for a year or so.

Give me a shout if you happen to visit Bangalore. Pm me if you wish to talk about anything ..

Arvind

[mamanton]

That's nice to hear. I'm an Indian living in Bangalore. I own a modest 4*5 gig and have been shooting some black and whites for a year or so.

Give me a shout if you happen to visit Bangalore. Pm me if you wish to talk about anything ..

Arvind

O, great! May be we'll go to Gokarna through Bangalore... And if so, we may bring a box of film for you ))

[cyberjunkie]

I have a question: is there some phrases in Hindi, that must be learned before the trip, and apply in the case of what?


In south India hindi is as useful as english, maybe less :)
Dravidic languages are a different thing, while post-sanskrit languages are quite close one to another. Just like neo-latin languages in EU. If you learned a little of french at school, then it's not too difficult to understand something, while on vacation in Italy, Spain, Portugal, Romania.



Bike - it's a cool idea!


Very cheap too.
In any major tourist center you'll find bike rentals. Better go for a two-stroke japanese bike, made under license in India. The big, heavy Enfield bikes are very pleasing, aesthetically speaking... but the brakes are a nightmare, and most 350cc Enfield Bullet offered on rental are old and in bad repairs.
If you are lucky enough to find a recent model, 350cc or 500cc, with modern brakes and suspensions, then you can go farther from your hotel. Even on a two days trip, if you like, spending the night in some accomodation along the road. Just ask before: smallest towns don't have a proper hotel. You'll find lots of truck driver's places along the main roads (sometimes called "highways" - narrow country rods by western standards): most of them have just rope beds (charpoys) under a tin roof, open air. Not very comfortable, but it comes free most of the times, if you buy some food and drinks.
No need to be so adventurous, as a first timer. Better go from major place to major place (cities or places with tourist accomodations), rent a bike there, and wander around in half-day trips. Your main problem will be refraining from exposing all your film on the first week! :D



and where you are reloading the holders with the film? I'm going to buy a Harrison pup tent. But where better to recharge? On the street? or in a cafe? or in the hotel?


A tent would be bulkier, and more expensive.
I think that a changing bag would be more than enough.
If you unload/reload your film holders at night, in an hotel's bathroom, you'll find that a couple of towels would be the only needed tools to get a perfectly darkened room. Small windows and very little light coming from the outside.

Two more things that come to my mind:
1) for film developement, give a chance to one of those very old photographic shops (some were established 100 years ago) that you find in big and medium sized indian towns. Probably they have big standing developement tanks for sheet film. I don't know about 13x18cm, which is slightly bigger, but i am sure that you could easily find somebody who would competently develop 5x7" sheets.
Of course you should try first with an unimportant picture. If you are satisfied, you could have all the exposed film developed. It would be incrdibly cheaper, and you have an insurance against old-fashioned X-ray machines, and improper handling during manual customs inspection.
2) alcohol is not a problem in India, at least for foreigners. The only prohibitionist state is Gujarat. Tamil Nadu is a traditionalist and very religious state, as a whole, so you won't find beer in strictly vegetarian restaurants, like mostly everywhere in India. In Tamil you'll find more of such restaurants, but you could easily find other restaurants, that cater to tourists, which serve beer, of more than passable quality.
If you like to have a super-alcoholic evening every now and then, go to some upper class hotel. You don't need to sleep there, just go to one of the bars or restaurants.
Many five star hotels have a buffet restaurant, with the widest choice and incredibly cheap (most are lunch only - dinner would be a-la-carte, and expensive!).
There are indian bars were liquor is served; they are sad, dimly lit places, that look as cheap strip bars from the outside. I find them depressive, at best. :(
Then there are the take away liquor shops: they are behind bars (!!), and guarded by an armed security (!!).
In some states/places you must qualify, to buy alcohol from them. As a foreigner, you're allowed everywhere. The price is high, by indian standards. Nevertheless, i was asked to buy alcohol for somebody who was not allowed to do it, because those shops are the only safe distilled liquor source, for local residents. It is plain crazy, and a big political mistake, because everybody has access to cheap, poisonous country-made spirit, sold in small plastic bags, for a very affordable price.
There is methyl alcohol, and nobody knows what else... what is widely known is that it kills! Of course the highest toll is from the lower strata of the population.
We must not forget that any strict follower of the main indian religions (Hinduism, Islam, Sikhism) should not drink alcohol!
Having said all that, a Johnny Walker Black Label is still the weapon of choice for any kind of corruption attempt :D
Most upper-class indians drink as hell, so if you bring a bottle with you...just in case, something impossible could become perfectly possible. Just ask for the big boss, don't waste time with subordinates!
Sometimes the presence of a lady could be as effective.
TWO times i had to leave in a hurry, by train. Unfortunately there were no tickets available. I asked for the chief superintendent, and brought my girlfriend with me.
He was more than happy to show his power, and the maximum of gallantry with a foreign lady: we were allotted two berths that are routinely reserved as government officers quota, and seldom used.
If you find the right man, and ask for help, you'll be surprised by the willingness to be of some help, for the simple reason that you are a foreign visitor!
In most countries being a foreigner is a liability, not an advantage.

Have a nice trip, and...if you go to Gokarna, isn't Hampi within reach?
Never been there, but i know that's one of those magic and mystic places India is so famous for.
Buy the "Travel survival kit" for South India, and do your homework before leaving.
That way you could plan your movements, realize which places must not be missed, and restrict your traveling to easily reachable places.
Three weeks are better spent visiting fewer places, but more in depth. If you want to travel to many places, far away one from the other, you could end up spending way too much time on public transports, with little time to simply rest and get acquainted with India and its climate (and people, food, way of life, etc.). Learning how to deal with India's peculiarities could be half of the fun by itself, but it takes some time, and you can't do it in a hurry.

cheers

CJ

[Frank Bunnik]

Thanks for the compliments Anton. I visited Ladakh a couple of times, always in the summer months.

It has been a few years since I have been to Tamil Nadu (2001 for the last time). Basically, it is temple country. The temples in Tamil Nadu are huge and build in their own typical style. I did not like Chennai very much. It is a busy, noisy city. One time I landed at Chennai airport, I took a taxi from the airport to Mahabalipuram (Mahamallapuram it's called now I think). This is a small village with a Unesco heritage site. It has a beach and is a nice place to start and maybe end your trip.

Thanjavur has a beautiful medieval temple and Thiruchirapalli also has a huge temple complex. Chidambaram is a small town like many other in Tamil Nadu. However it is interesting to visit the beautiful temple to witness the fire ceremony. Madurai is not to be missed and if you have the opportunity don't forget to visit Kanyakumari on the southern most tip of India. Nearby was a lovely little village, I am not 100% sure but it might very well be Kottaram.

From Kanyakumari you can drive up the west coast to Aleppy (Alepphuza) in Kerala where you can rent a house boat to take you through the backwater canals.

If you like steam trains you might take the toy train to Ooty. This line runs locomotives made in Switzerland at the beginning of the 20th century. The ride up to Ooty is beautiful though Ooty, lying in the mountains can get chilly or even cold. I remember that visiting the loco shed was no problem at all (at least in 1995, they might have tightened up a bit since).

My favourite place in southern India is Hampi, not far from Hospet in Karnataka. It is a magical place but if you go there, do not stay in Hospet but take a hotel in Hampi itself. It is a bit out of way from Tamil Nadu but if you have the chance, do not miss it.

Indians enjoy having their photo taken. I never give them money for a portrait (but I do often give them a polaroid). They tend to freeze up for a portrait but if you have a chat with them before you make the photo they tend to loosen up.


I hope this helps. Good luck with your preperations and if I can be of any other help, don't hesitate to ask and enjoy your trip.

Frank
www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

[Atul Mohidekar]

I work (on a daily basis) with our engineering team based in Chennai, the capital and the largest city in Tamil Nadu. I visit them few times a year. Incidentally, I will be in Chennai for the first couple of weeks of Jan. 2012. If you need any help, PM me or send an email through this site - we can then talk/communicate offline.

Here are a few practial things that came to mind:

Some people are hit hard by the jetlag – up to 4-5 days. You might want to schedule visits to important places couple of days after reaching India.
Coastal cities are very humid and hot, even in Jan. Expect the daily high temperatures in 80s F in Jan.
India uses 220-230 V, 50 Hz electricity compared to 110 V, 60 Hz used here in the USA. Also, the electric sockets are not compatible with the US. You will need to carry electric transformers/converters and electric adapters for your electric gadgets such as the phone charger. Most of the laptops work on 220 V, provided the appropriate electric adapter is used (no transformer required).
Make copies of your passport and visa and keep them in a couple of different bags. Find out and write down the US consulate phone number, just in case.
I would highly recommend you hire a driver/guide after you finalize the places you want to visit.
Always buy/carry bottled water. Also, ask for the bottled water in the restaurants.
Don't expect very clean restrooms. Don't expect to find restrooms easily during travel. Carry TP and toilet seat covers while on the road.
Dust and dirt are part of life and so is pollution in big cities.
It is not uncommon to take 30-40 minutes to drive 10 miles in big cities during peak hours.
Indian traffic is something that you have to experience firsthand to understand it. Get ready for instinct-driven, heart-stopping driving conditions rather than the boring, mostly-rules-following traffic here in the US.
Expect to attract a lot of attention while using an LF camera.
Most people are extremely helpful and will go out of their way to help a tourist.
India is a wonderful place for both people photography and nature photography.



// Atul

[mamanton]

I hope this helps. Good luck with your preperations and if I can be of any other help, don't hesitate to ask and enjoy your trip.

Frank
www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

Thank you again! What do you think about lenses. I'm less than a year doing a large format, and yet I have only two lenses. 210 and 360mm. Do I need to buy for trip to India a wide angle lens, like 90 or 110mm?

[mamanton]

I work (on a daily basis) with our engineering team based in Chennai, the capital and the largest city in Tamil Nadu. I visit them few times a year. Incidentally, I will be in Chennai for the first couple of weeks of Jan. 2012. If you need any help, PM me or send an email through this site - we can then talk/communicate offline.

Here are a few practial things that came to mind:

Some people are hit hard by the jetlag – up to 4-5 days. You might want to schedule visits to important places couple of days after reaching India.
Coastal cities are very humid and hot, even in Jan. Expect the daily high temperatures in 80s F in Jan.
India uses 220-230 V, 50 Hz electricity compared to 110 V, 60 Hz used here in the USA. Also, the electric sockets are not compatible with the US. You will need to carry electric transformers/converters and electric adapters for your electric gadgets such as the phone charger. Most of the laptops work on 220 V, provided the appropriate electric adapter is used (no transformer required).
Make copies of your passport and visa and keep them in a couple of different bags. Find out and write down the US consulate phone number, just in case.
I would highly recommend you hire a driver/guide after you finalize the places you want to visit.
Always buy/carry bottled water. Also, ask for the bottled water in the restaurants.
Don't expect very clean restrooms. Don't expect to find restrooms easily during travel. Carry TP and toilet seat covers while on the road.
Dust and dirt are part of life and so is pollution in big cities.
It is not uncommon to take 30-40 minutes to drive 10 miles in big cities during peak hours.
Indian traffic is something that you have to experience firsthand to understand it. Get ready for instinct-driven, heart-stopping driving conditions rather than the boring, mostly-rules-following traffic here in the US.
Expect to attract a lot of attention while using an LF camera.
Most people are extremely helpful and will go out of their way to help a tourist.
India is a wonderful place for both people photography and nature photography.



// Atul

Thanks, Atul!
We had some problems with the purchase of tickets. And the date had moved slightly. So we bought tickets from February 20 to March 10. And in India we will be celebrating the birthday of my wife, our wedding anniversary and my birthday!

In Russia, we also use 220 ​​volt outlets, so no problems ))

And we already know about the friendly man with a car who lives in Auroville. I think we will turn to his services in mid-journey.

Thanks for the tips, and enjoy your flight to India too!

Anton

[mamanton]

In south India hindi is as useful as english, maybe less :)
Dravidic languages are a different thing, while post-sanskrit languages are quite close one to another.

In any major tourist center you'll find bike rentals. Better go for a two-stroke japanese bike, made under license in India. The big, heavy Enfield bikes are very pleasing, aesthetically speaking... but the brakes are a nightmare, and most 350cc Enfield Bullet offered on rental are old and in bad repairs.
If you are lucky enough to find a recent model, 350cc or 500cc, with modern brakes and suspensions, then you can go farther from your hotel. Even on a two days trip, if you like, spending the night in some accomodation along the road. Just ask before: smallest towns don't have a proper hotel. You'll find lots of truck driver's places along the main roads (sometimes called "highways" - narrow country rods by western standards): most of them have just rope beds (charpoys) under a tin roof, open air. Not very comfortable, but it comes free most of the times, if you buy some food and drinks.

A tent would be bulkier, and more expensive.
I think that a changing bag would be more than enough.
If you unload/reload your film holders at night, in an hotel's bathroom, you'll find that a couple of towels would be the only needed tools to get a perfectly darkened room. Small windows and very little light coming from the outside.

Two more things that come to my mind:
1) for film developement, give a chance to one of those very old photographic shops (some were established 100 years ago) that you find in big and medium sized indian towns. Probably they have big standing developement tanks for sheet film. I don't know about 13x18cm, which is slightly bigger, but i am sure that you could easily find somebody who would competently develop 5x7" sheets.

TWO times i had to leave in a hurry, by train. Unfortunately there were no tickets available. I asked for the chief superintendent, and brought my girlfriend with me.
He was more than happy to show his power, and the maximum of gallantry with a foreign lady: we were allotted two berths that are routinely reserved as government officers quota, and seldom used.
If you find the right man, and ask for help, you'll be surprised by the willingness to be of some help, for the simple reason that you are a foreign visitor!
In most countries being a foreigner is a liability, not an advantage.

Have a nice trip, and...if you go to Gokarna, isn't Hampi within reach?
Never been there, but i know that's one of those magic and mystic places India is so famous for.
Buy the "Travel survival kit" for South India, and do your homework before leaving.
That way you could plan your movements, realize which places must not be missed, and restrict your traveling to easily reachable places.
Three weeks are better spent visiting fewer places, but more in depth. If you want to travel to many places, far away one from the other, you could end up spending way too much time on public transports, with little time to simply rest and get acquainted with India and its climate (and people, food, way of life, etc.). Learning how to deal with India's peculiarities could be half of the fun by itself, but it takes some time, and you can't do it in a hurry.

cheers

CJ

CJ, your message - a great tour to indian bikes country! ))

So, what the main phrases in Dravidic language??

However, I want to buy a tent, because I think that it is easier to carry a tent and 3-4 holders and a box with film, than 10 holders. So 13x18 holders are very heavy. And then I'll develope all at home by myself. But it's interesting to see Indian labs and second-hand photo shops...

Now I ponder how best to cut off a piece of rail and convert sheeps to fit my camera into the biggest Vanguard suitcase on wheels http://www.vanguardworld.com/index.php/en/pv/products/detail-1-2-33-177.html.

[David Woods]

That's nice to hear. I'm an Indian living in Bangalore. I own a modest 4*5 gig and have been shooting some black and whites for a year or so.

Give me a shout if you happen to visit Bangalore. Pm me if you wish to talk about anything ..

Arvind

Where in India can you pick up 35mm and 120 slide if I needed to?
David

[psychoanalyst]

I've really only spent a little time (2 weeks) in the Khali Temple area in Calcutta and the people where so poor that I felt using them for photographic subjects would be demeaning to them.

However, that is one small neighborhood in India.

I think by and large there is great beauty there---both natural and architectural as well as the people. I would strongly suggest hiring a guide. If you wonder into an area like Khali Temple you'll be mobbed by curious onlookers and without a native guide to get you through to where you're going---well you'll waste a lot of time. I had a Sihk (sp?) driver who was incredible helpful---your hotel can arrange for a trusted guide.
Have fun & don't drink the local beer (really, don't!)

John....its the Kali temple....not Khali....very interesting place. I am born and brought up in Calcutta, although have not lived that in 10 years...

Anton, if you need advice about Calcutta let me know.....it is an extremely interesting place. India as a whole you will find is a dream for a portrait photographer. I honestly feel that Indian faces have a lot of genuine emotion and character.

Also...I have lived in Chennai for 4 years....don't know a whole lot about that place, but I am sure I can get you info if you need it. There is also a Chennai Photography Club group on Flickr...http://www.flickr.com/groups/chennai_photography_club/

And the Photographic Society of Madras: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1262104@N20/

You may find them helpful.

Avi

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

CJ, your message - a great tour to indian bikes country! ))

So, what the main phrases in Dravidic language??

However, I want to buy a tent, because I think that it is easier to carry a tent and 3-4 holders and a box with film, than 10 holders. So 13x18 holders are very heavy. And then I'll develope all at home by myself. But it's interesting to see Indian labs and second-hand photo shops...

Now I ponder how best to cut off a piece of rail and convert sheeps to fit my camera into the biggest Vanguard suitcase on wheels http://www.vanguardworld.com/index.php/en/pv/products/detail-1-2-33-177.html.

If you want to learn phrases you will get lost. The language in India changes every few hundred miles and the dialect changes every few tens of miles!!!

But some popular ones are

Hindi:

1. Aap kaise hain? "How are you"
2. Kitne paise hue? "How much is the charge"....useful when riding taxis etc.
3. Main tumse bahut bahut pyaar kartna hoon.."I love you very very much"....may come in handy in impressing your wife!!:)

Dasvidaniya

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

Thanks for the compliments Anton. I visited Ladakh a couple of times, always in the summer months.

It has been a few years since I have been to Tamil Nadu (2001 for the last time). Basically, it is temple country. The temples in Tamil Nadu are huge and build in their own typical style. I did not like Chennai very much. It is a busy, noisy city. One time I landed at Chennai airport, I took a taxi from the airport to Mahabalipuram (Mahamallapuram it's called now I think). This is a small village with a Unesco heritage site. It has a beach and is a nice place to start and maybe end your trip.

Thanjavur has a beautiful medieval temple and Thiruchirapalli also has a huge temple complex. Chidambaram is a small town like many other in Tamil Nadu. However it is interesting to visit the beautiful temple to witness the fire ceremony. Madurai is not to be missed and if you have the opportunity don't forget to visit Kanyakumari on the southern most tip of India. Nearby was a lovely little village, I am not 100% sure but it might very well be Kottaram.

From Kanyakumari you can drive up the west coast to Aleppy (Alepphuza) in Kerala where you can rent a house boat to take you through the backwater canals.

If you like steam trains you might take the toy train to Ooty. This line runs locomotives made in Switzerland at the beginning of the 20th century. The ride up to Ooty is beautiful though Ooty, lying in the mountains can get chilly or even cold. I remember that visiting the loco shed was no problem at all (at least in 1995, they might have tightened up a bit since).

My favourite place in southern India is Hampi, not far from Hospet in Karnataka. It is a magical place but if you go there, do not stay in Hospet but take a hotel in Hampi itself. It is a bit out of way from Tamil Nadu but if you have the chance, do not miss it.

Indians enjoy having their photo taken. I never give them money for a portrait (but I do often give them a polaroid). They tend to freeze up for a portrait but if you have a chat with them before you make the photo they tend to loosen up.


I hope this helps. Good luck with your preperations and if I can be of any other help, don't hesitate to ask and enjoy your trip.

Frank
www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com

I have been dying to visit Ladakh....heard its an enchanted place.

The temples are beautiful.

Avi

[mamanton]

John....its the Kali temple....not Khali....very interesting place. I am born and brought up in Calcutta, although have not lived that in 10 years...

Anton, if you need advice about Calcutta let me know.....it is an extremely interesting place. India as a whole you will find is a dream for a portrait photographer. I honestly feel that Indian faces have a lot of genuine emotion and character.

Also...I have lived in Chennai for 4 years....don't know a whole lot about that place, but I am sure I can get you info if you need it. There is also a Chennai Photography Club group on Flickr...http://www.flickr.com/groups/chennai_photography_club/

And the Photographic Society of Madras: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1262104@N20/

You may find them helpful.

Avi

Avi

Thank you, Avi!
I will ask you some questions a little bit later...

Kind regards!

Anton

[mamanton]

So, tomorrow we'll be in Chennai, next Mahabalipuram, Aurovile, Pondicherry, Chidambaram...
Yo-ho-ho!!! )))

[debanjan]

Welcome !!

Wish you a nice time here..

In case you visit the Hampi sector, try including Belur & Halebidu as well (intricate stone architecture at its best)..

[debanjan]

Welcome !!

Wish you a nice time here..

In case you visit the Hampi sector, try including Belur & Halebidu as well (intricate stone architecture at its best)..

[brianam]

just returned from 3 weeks in India myself. Didn't attempt to take an LF, but did bring a Mamiya 7II and the 80mm. (it was not a photography trip, so, kept film cameras to a minimum.)
My observation: Some people are fine walking around with their $x,xxx Canon Digi-thing swung around their neck in crowded places (Chandni Chowk, Delhi anyone?!) Me, not so much. So I found most times i brought out the Mamiya was when there's more space and time to work out photos. For me that was sunrise on the ghats in Varanasi, backwaters cruising in Kerala, a few temples, and from rooftops of hotels I stayed in. A little point'n'shoot handled street photos for me.

one other observation: India's a big, colorful crazy country. and I'll be back. :-)

[Noah A]

I spent a few weeks in Mumbai not long ago. I had no problems working with the Technika. Often when I took my head out from under the dark cloth a small crowd had gathered to see what I was doing. But it was really a very easy place to work.

http://noahaddis.com/mumbai/mumbai.html

[pho]

Rent House in Chennai] (http://www.houseforrentinchennai.in)