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View Full Version : Serious dust issues + watermarks and all kinds of junk



Corran
21-Oct-2011, 21:35
I'm getting very frustrated today!

I'm having serious issues with dust and waterspots on my negatives the last few days. I don't know what is going on so I thought I would ask.

Normally, I haven't had much problem with dust, save for maybe 10-12 specks that were easy to spot out. Suddenly though it's bordering on making scans completely unusable without hours in Photoshop, if ever.

I am using Ilford Rapid fixer, then washing for 20-30 minutes, and then dunking in Photoflow for about a minute. Afterwords I am hanging them up to dry and I squeegee them. They dry overnight usually.

This is happening even worse with some 35mm rolls. It's like a snowstorm.

I am using a rocket blower before scanning but that doesn't help. The dust is like adhered to the negative. Using some cotton Pec Pads the dust moves a little but again, it's like adhered in the negative and is almost immovable.

Water spots and streaks are also showing up frequently. I have never had a problem with these before! My Photoflo is diluted to about 1:1000 by the way.

I have not changed anything! The only difference I can think of is we are finally getting some cooler weather down here and it's been drastically colder and less humidity these last few days.

Any clues??? I'm at my wits end. Here is a couple examples: first is a 4x5 cropped and the second a 35mm

Mark Stahlke
21-Oct-2011, 21:41
The only difference I can think of is we are finally getting some cooler weather down here and it's been drastically colder and less humidity these last few days.Did you just turn on your furnace? If so, maybe it's time to replace the furnace filter or have the ducts vacuumed.

dsphotog
21-Oct-2011, 21:42
Look at the film when removing it from the wash, are specks visible then?
I had to install a water filter. Filtered water is also great for mixing chem.
Or...
Is dust landing on the film while drying?

Corran
21-Oct-2011, 21:52
No I haven't turned on the heat, it's not THAT cold.

I haven't check right after the wash but I know my water isn't very pure probably. But it wasn't giving me problems before.

jeroldharter
21-Oct-2011, 21:54
Lots of possibilities. Your water supply could be junky. Use inline filters for your water line. Try distiller water for mixing your chemicals, especially the photoflo.

Replace the furnace filters regularly.

Use a HEPA room air filter.

Use a film drying cabinet, no fan or heat.

Also, the problem could be with film loading. Make sure your holders are dust free. Camel's hair brush and compressed air. Store them in anti-static bags in dedicated, clean cases such as the new Photobackpacker holder carriers. Humidify the room before loading holders. If you use a changing bag, clean it.

jeroldharter
21-Oct-2011, 21:55
And don't squeegee the negatives.

Corran
21-Oct-2011, 22:01
I will try some distilled water with the Photoflo. I should note that the dust is not in the holder, only on the final negatives.

Any reason I should not use a squeegee?

dsphotog
21-Oct-2011, 22:17
I have found that running the water for a while, to flush sediment out of the lines before processing helps.

Bill Burk
21-Oct-2011, 22:29
And don't squeegee the negatives.

I was thinking this too. I hang my 4x5 negs in the garage, well you expect dust. Nope none. Makes no sense to me because the environment is dusty. Could be the ocean humidity. I dip the negs in fresh photo-flo and hang them up by a corner by clothespins. I make no effort to dry them, they just wait until next day.

jeroldharter
21-Oct-2011, 22:29
No need for a squeegee. Your film will dry on its own. Slow drying, minimal manipulation of film, dust free environment dedicated to film drying only.

If your squeegee has dust or irregularities that could scratch or mar the film, you have no way to know.

cyrus
21-Oct-2011, 22:33
White dust spots visible on a print (as opposed to dark spots on a print) means the dust is coming after exposure of the neg, so probably not from dusty film holders.

Filter your chems, and rinse negs in diistilled water before drying.

Corran
21-Oct-2011, 22:39
Alright I will forgo the squeegee. Regarding distilled water: does tap water through a Brita filter work fine for washing? I will buy some distilled water for the Photoflo mix for sure.

I just don't understand why this has cropped up all of the sudden. I really have had no issues for the last several months.

jeroldharter
21-Oct-2011, 23:10
It is frustrating. You have to take care of envy angle.

Tap water is fine for rinsing so long as it works! If you are having problems, use distiller, at least for a final rinse. Some people forego Photoflo and instead use a spray bottle or squirt bottle of distilled water for a final rinse.

dsphotog
21-Oct-2011, 23:45
I hang/dry my film in the shower.... Airborne dust can be made to settle by running a steamy shower, or spraying a light mist from a spray bottle.
I don't use a squeegee.

jp
22-Oct-2011, 11:08
For LF, I skip the photoflo mix, and squirt some 91% rubbing alcohol on the negatives. It's a very clean product so it won't leave dust or watermarks. It dries quicker so less time for dust to settle on a wet negative. A toothpick puncture in the quality seal under the cap makes a good nozzle.

I run an air cleaner in my darkroom and that's helpful, but my scanner (epson v700) draws in dust every time I lift the lid. If you use a flatbed scanner, lift the lid real slow, and blow off the surfaces for each use.

Joseph O'Neil
22-Oct-2011, 12:36
I had a similar problem many moons ago,a nd I traced it to tiny particles in my Ilford rapid fixer. maybe too much exposure to air, who knows.

My solution was before I mix my fixer, I pour it through a plain ole paper coffee filter - new one of course.
:)

I also find a Honeywell HEPA air filter in my basement does wonders, but my "dust" problem almost disappeared after I started usin those coffee filters

good luck
joe

Corran
22-Oct-2011, 14:27
Thanks for the further suggestions. I shot a few sheets this afternoon so I'm going to try all of these out and see how it goes.

Corran
22-Oct-2011, 16:45
Good news: my 4x5 negs come back squeaky clean, even better than before. This is great!! Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.

I think the important part was I threw out my fixer and cleaned out the tray. I think I did have some gunk in there. I also used distilled water with the Photoflo and did not squeegee them. They look great!

Here's one shot:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showpost.php?p=794120&postcount=2165

jeroldharter
22-Oct-2011, 19:49
Looks good. I did not realize that you were re-using your fixer.

I re-use mine within a processing session, maybe into the next day, but never longer. Stick with one shot chemistry for film and you will reduce the possibility of problems.

I assume you are not re-using stop and PhotoFlo?

Corran
22-Oct-2011, 20:08
To be honest, I have been reusing stop/fix/photoflo for a week or two at a time, keeping the containers closed up in the mean time (I use one-shot developing though). Haven't really had an issue, but I think the fixer just got full of junk.

jeroldharter
22-Oct-2011, 20:12
To be honest, I have been reusing stop/fix/photoflo for a week or two at a time, keeping the containers closed up in the mean time (I use one-shot developing though). Haven't really had an issue, but I think the fixer just got full of junk.

That is definitely a false economy.

Corran
22-Oct-2011, 20:22
Well maybe so. I don't shoot everyday, and usually only 2-3 sheets or maybe just 1. I recently starting using some acetic acid from the store instead of Ilfostop, I might have to look at a fixer replacement as well so that I don't feel the need to extend the life of the more expensive Ilford chems.

jeroldharter
22-Oct-2011, 20:37
You could use a water stop. Use a few fill and dump cycles.

Ilford Hypam is a relatively inexpensive rapid fix.

Either way, much less expensive than film and the time involved.

patrickjames
22-Oct-2011, 23:11
I know you solved your problem, but just fyi, to clean negs I usually use a Kim Wipe with 91 percent alcohol and wipe only once in one direction. That will take care of any dust that is adhering to the neg and any water spots as well. I sometimes use a microfiber and my breath when I am in the darkroom and too lazy to go get some alcohol.

Bazz8
23-Oct-2011, 03:19
I got caught on the re-use of photoflow in a old tank which was black and had spots all over my negs, now I dip my finger in the photoflow and mix a batch each time with no problems.:)

Corran
23-Oct-2011, 04:37
I know you solved your problem, but just fyi, to clean negs I usually use a Kim Wipe with 91 percent alcohol and wipe only once in one direction. That will take care of any dust that is adhering to the neg and any water spots as well. I sometimes use a microfiber and my breath when I am in the darkroom and too lazy to go get some alcohol.

Good to know, I will try that out as I still have a roll of 35mm negs that still have a lot of stubborn dust.

Joseph O'Neil
23-Oct-2011, 08:14
I don't develop film sometimes for 2-3 months, but then I go like a mad man and develop film, maybe several batches in a day. With our weather here in Canada, summer is for shootin' and winter is for developing. :)

I'll re-use my fixer, but only for that day. next day - be it actually the next day or three days later, all new chemistry.

Other things I find - and your mileage may and will vary, I always use distilled or filtered water for my developer, but plain tap water for stop, fix and wash works fine. Hypam and Ilford rapid fixer is cheap, but you do not have to always make it so strong. I like all my chemistry weaker, and times a bit longer - for me, it gives better, and more consistant results. Everything however I mix fresh.

good luck

joe

dsphotog
23-Oct-2011, 19:49
I put used film fix in a jug, then use it for paper.

cyrus
23-Oct-2011, 20:18
Stop is just an acid. Good old white vinegar mixed 1 part to 4 or 5 parts water works fine. You can reuse it as long as it is still acidic but why. Anyway it could not be the source of the issues here.

Filtering fixer and developer is always a good idea. Even the "fresh" stuff can have crap in it. Crystals of something that doesn't dissolve. Especially a good idea for the folks who don't use a lot of chems and only develop / print once in a while so their chems sit around.

Anyway filtering certainly can't hurt, and it is super easy (coffee filter folded into a funnel.)

cyrus
23-Oct-2011, 20:25
I put used film fix in a jug, then use it for paper.

Argh. I was always under the impression that that's not a good ideal generally speaking, unless perhaps if you use a two-fix system where the prints get a final rinse in fresh fixer and/or if you're really careful about keeping track of the number of sheets etc used according to the manufacturer's suggestions, and also use some sort of checking system like the Tetanol strips to make sure your fixer is still good. Not worth it IMHO. (Anyway, if I really wanted to check fixer I prefer to just dip a small piece of film in the fixer and see how long it takes to clear the film. Clearing action is a good indicator - but not proof - that the fixer is working OK and is not exhausted.)

Reusing paper fixer for film would be ok because you can see if/ how long it takes for the fixer to clear the film, but not if you use film fixer on paper since you can't really see if fixer is clearing paper (since paper is opaque) so there's a risk of improper fixation. According to Kodak as a practical matter it is best not to mix up fixing baths between prints and films at all.

jp
24-Oct-2011, 08:53
I think the caveat with using paper fixer for film is that paper fibers could end up on the film. (if you're not using RC paper)... Some fixers are mixed weaker for paper as well.

I keep fixers separate, and retire the film fixer when it gets slow to clear it. I also have a fixer test kit from formulary that confirms the fixer is spent. I keep two jugs of film fixer since I'm sometimes doing two batches of film at once, and a single jug of paper fixer.

Kevin Crisp
24-Oct-2011, 09:20
As a chronic re-user of rapid fix, sometimes for many months, I always pour it into the tray with a filter funnel. If you have a problem (too old, tiny white/yellow precipitate) you'll see it at once in the filter. If you reuse the same jug when you mix it (I've been using the same jug for 25 years - after all I did go to all the trouble to write "rapid fix" on it with a marker) check the bottom and make sure you don't have any precipitate down there. If so, you need to really clean it out well.