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armentor1@mac.com
6-Oct-2011, 09:14
I just purchased a 210 symmar 5.6 on ebay. The glass is very clean and the shutter fires accurately. I am currently trying to mount it on a temporary, copal 1 lens board but there is a screw that is poking out from underneath the mounting ring on the back side of the front element (see image).

This screw is not allowing me to put the lens board on flush. It is designed not go down any further. Is this supposed to be here? Should I modify the lens board to have a negative space to accommodate the strangely placed screw?


dave

mpirie
6-Oct-2011, 09:20
The screw you are describing is the "location" screw and is used to ensure that the lens is mounted in the right orientation when used with a lens board that has a small notch taken out of the mounting hole.

Most of us remove the screw so that it'll fit into a normal lensboard.

Mike

Gem Singer
6-Oct-2011, 09:27
It's an index pin, an optional part of the shutter.

Use a small jeweler's screw driver to unscrew and remove it.

Removing it will not effect the operation of the shutter.

armentor1@mac.com
6-Oct-2011, 09:28
thanks for the speedy responses guys. I'll just take it out.

E. von Hoegh
6-Oct-2011, 09:47
I just purchased a 210 symmar 5.6 on ebay. The glass is very clean and the shutter fires accurately. I am currently trying to mount it on a temporary, copal 1 lens board but there is a screw that is poking out from underneath the mounting ring on the back side of the front element (see image).

This screw is not allowing me to put the lens board on flush. It is designed not go down any further. Is this supposed to be here? Should I modify the lens board to have a negative space to accommodate the strangely placed screw?


dave

Negative space????? No, just put a notch in it.;)

Capocheny
6-Oct-2011, 10:41
I agree with E.

Once notched, ensure that the pin sits into the notch and this will prevent your lens from rotating around on the board. That's what the pin is meant for. :)

Cheers

Gem Singer
6-Oct-2011, 11:03
If the retaining ring is tightened properly, there is little, or no,danger of the shutter rotating.

What if you want to change the orientation of the shutter on the lens board in the future and the notch is not in the proper position? Cut another notch?

No need to deface a perfectly good lens board.

GPS
6-Oct-2011, 11:38
...
Should I modify the lens board to have a negative space to accommodate the strangely placed screw?

dave

If you decide to take away the screw make sure it doesn't become a negative screw - keep it. I used to attach it with an electrical tape on the lens rear element. Never lost it...:)

Dominique Cesari
6-Oct-2011, 12:46
Here is a photograph of a Nikon lensboard in the Technika-style wearing a notch to accomodate that kind of screw (red arrow). You will notice that the notch doesn't pass through the board to keep it light-tight.
It's safe to withdraw the screw as explained above.

Frank Petronio
6-Oct-2011, 18:28
It's nice to have the lens "keyed" like that if you possibly can, but it's not worth sweating over. Most of the time if you have a lens wrench, you can tighten the retaining ring firmly and the lens/shutter will not rotate in use.

Some wooden lensboards that shrink and swell may be a different story. Why people still try to make precision cameras out of wood is pretty silly....

E. von Hoegh
7-Oct-2011, 07:24
It's nice to have the lens "keyed" like that if you possibly can, but it's not worth sweating over. Most of the time if you have a lens wrench, you can tighten the retaining ring firmly and the lens/shutter will not rotate in use.

Some wooden lensboards that shrink and swell may be a different story. Why people still try to make precision cameras out of wood is pretty silly....

Beacause if you use the correct, well-seasoned wood, it doesn't shrink or swell enough to be troublesome. Say, quarter sawn pattern grade mahogany, seasoned for a couple decades, (if you can find it, it's likely all gone) as opposed to some inferior kiln-dried crap.

Darin Boville
7-Oct-2011, 07:46
Beacause if you use the correct, well-seasoned wood, it doesn't shrink or swell enough to be troublesome. Say, quarter sawn pattern grade mahogany, seasoned for a couple decades, (if you can find it, it's likely all gone) as opposed to some inferior kiln-dried crap.

What are modern wooden cameras made out of?

--Darin

E. von Hoegh
7-Oct-2011, 07:54
What are modern wooden cameras made out of?

--Darin

I've seen everything from ebony to maple to cherry. My point was that the proper wood, properly seasoned, is pretty dimensionally stable. "Kiln dried" wood, while useful as an advertising gimmick, does not always mean "properly seasoned".