R Mann
29-Sep-2011, 16:00
This is a short description of how I converted an Omega 5x7 E3 Head to an LED head -
The enlarger I have is an Automega 5x7 E3 - it originally had a 4 tube cold light head when I got it. The metal housing is rather compact and has a filter drawer. I removed the old cold light head, but kept all of the original housing. All of the new parts fit into the housing and above the filter drawer.
The LEDs are mounted on an aluminum 3/8 inch plate. The plate was cut to fit into the housing, holes were drilled to use the original mounting hardware from the cold light head.
I made two wood filler blocks that clamp a plastic diffusion sheet just above the filter drawer - I kept the original glass diffusion plate that is below the drawer. I put some metal tape over the wood to reflect light. Yes, There are two diffusion plates - I did this because I wanted to eliminate any hot spots from the LEDs. This has worked out well - light fall off into the corners is about 2/3 of a stop from the center using a R H Designs meter.
I used 12 - LEDs. They are 3 watt units and are wired in series, powered by a Meanwell Power supply. The power supply is mounted above the aluminum plate.
I used plastic LED mounting connectors which allow you to mount LEDs without soldering. You do need to drill holes for screws into the aluminum plate and mount then with heat transfer paste.
Total time to do the conversion was about two days - Cost was approximately $100
12 - 3 watt Cree XP-G cool white LEDs @ $5 Each
12 - Solderless BJB LED Connectors @ $.85 Each
1 - Meanwell LPC 60-1050 Power Supply
Aluminum Plate - I had this in my scrap pile - Maybe $15 if I had to buy it.
Heat Transfer Paste - this I also had, you really need very little to mount 12 LEDs
Wire - this I also had
I sourced the LEDs from: reefledlights.com
They can supply just about all the parts you would need to make a head.
The enlarger I have is an Automega 5x7 E3 - it originally had a 4 tube cold light head when I got it. The metal housing is rather compact and has a filter drawer. I removed the old cold light head, but kept all of the original housing. All of the new parts fit into the housing and above the filter drawer.
The LEDs are mounted on an aluminum 3/8 inch plate. The plate was cut to fit into the housing, holes were drilled to use the original mounting hardware from the cold light head.
I made two wood filler blocks that clamp a plastic diffusion sheet just above the filter drawer - I kept the original glass diffusion plate that is below the drawer. I put some metal tape over the wood to reflect light. Yes, There are two diffusion plates - I did this because I wanted to eliminate any hot spots from the LEDs. This has worked out well - light fall off into the corners is about 2/3 of a stop from the center using a R H Designs meter.
I used 12 - LEDs. They are 3 watt units and are wired in series, powered by a Meanwell Power supply. The power supply is mounted above the aluminum plate.
I used plastic LED mounting connectors which allow you to mount LEDs without soldering. You do need to drill holes for screws into the aluminum plate and mount then with heat transfer paste.
Total time to do the conversion was about two days - Cost was approximately $100
12 - 3 watt Cree XP-G cool white LEDs @ $5 Each
12 - Solderless BJB LED Connectors @ $.85 Each
1 - Meanwell LPC 60-1050 Power Supply
Aluminum Plate - I had this in my scrap pile - Maybe $15 if I had to buy it.
Heat Transfer Paste - this I also had, you really need very little to mount 12 LEDs
Wire - this I also had
I sourced the LEDs from: reefledlights.com
They can supply just about all the parts you would need to make a head.