URGENT ADVICE! Korona 8x10 vs Calumet C-1

[ThePenguin]

I'm about to purchase one of these to cameras as my first 8x10 from members of this forum (I hope no-one gets offended by this post) But I need some advice.

I will shoot mostly in my studio on longer focal lenghts, but it would be nice to take the camera out with me once in a while.

Let me break it down for you:

The two cameras offered to me are:


Calumet C-1 (the green monster)

- Very good movements overall

- Bellows extend to about 30inch

- Bellows have been repaired (seller doesn't know how the will behave if they are very extended)

- 4x5 reducing back

- Two lenses:
508mm Caltar in an Ilex shutter
12" Caltar in an Ilex shutter

4 filmholders included

The camera weighs in at about 6kg


VS.


Korona View 8x10

Seems to be in very good condition.

The bellows looks new

Good movements

4x5 reducing back (broken, missing the metal back spring)

Lens: Caltar-S multicoated 360mm in a Copal 3 shutter

4 filmholders

Some Velvia film included (outdated)

Weighs in at about 4,5kg



PLEASE HELP, I'm about to go crazy on this choice.

I need to make up my mind TONIGHT


Thank you!

[cyrus]

C-1 sounds like a much better deal but it is heavier. A metal camera, much sturdier, with a working back and lenses.

[Brian Ellis]

You say you're buying mostly for studio work. For that it seems like a no-brainer - Calumet C1. You can take it out in the field once in a while - very once in a while. : - )

[cyrus]

The only real complaint I have about C1 is the weird back rail arrangement which gets in the way.

[ThePenguin]

Hmm, leaning towards the C-1...

The C-1 seems to be a better choice,

BUT!

The Korona is a wonderful piece of work! And still very useful

[David de Gruyl]

The only real complaint I have about C1 is the weird back rail arrangement which gets in the way.

It does. So does the weight if you are carrying it. And you need a beefier tripod head.

I really enjoy using it, though.

If you do end up with the C1, make sure you put the film holders in in the correct direction. The back is NOT symmetrical even though it looks like it could be.

[Bill Kumpf]

David,

Please explain what is the correct direction. I just purchased a C1 and just starting to shoot with it.


If you do end up with the C1, make sure you put the film holders in in the correct direction. The back is NOT symmetrical even though it looks like it could be.

Thanks

[David de Gruyl]

Oh, it seats properly if you put the filmholder in one way and doesn't if you put it in the other. If you are doing it wrong, you will have light leaks.

As for which direction is which, make sure the ledge on your filmholder is firmly engaged before you pull the darkslide and you won't be doing it wrong. Because the back can be taken off and rotated, I can't tell you whether it loads from the right (or the top) or left (or bottom).

[ThePenguin]

Is there no advantage in Korona-offer except that it looks good? Better lens?

[Matt Miller]

The Korona deal has better bellows and a newer shutter. That's the way I'd go.

[Merg Ross]

[QUOTE=ThePenguin;783630]

I will shoot mostly in my studio on longer focal lenghts......

Calumet C-1

[Jim Galli]

If sometime down the winding path you decide to shoot very heavy large antique portrait lenses like big petzvals and or Heliar's etc, the C1 will handle the weight with ease and had a generous front inside standard where up to a 7" Packard can be mounted inside the camera.

[Frank Petronio]

I am not knocking anyone's Korona, but the C1 will be much more stable - rigid, all things being equal. Koronas have always been the lighter choice between the cameras of its day. Of course you will need a solid tripod for either, but an especially strong one for the C1.

The bellows might show corner leaks at full extensions. Tape them, put your dark cloth over them while making your exposures, you can usually get around them. Unless they are structurally falling apart, I bet you can make them work fine.

[ImSoNegative]

i have never used a korona but i have a c1, and like some have mentioned: a bit heavy but rock solid, very smooth focusing, some say with short lenses its a pain because of the back rail, i shoot with a 121 Sa easily i just look from the side : ), with long lenses you have bellows galore, they are great cameras. Mine is the black monster weighs in at about 18 pounds.

[ThePenguin]

Allright, the c1 seems to be popular! But if I would have said that I'm looking for a fieldcamera, would the answer be the same?

By the way, the front standard is the same 6x6" lensboards?

In my heart I really want the Korona because its a beautiful camera, but my brain tells me to get the C1 and all of you guys aswell.

[Bob McCarthy]

Are the prices comparable?

When you decide, have other owner pm me.

B

[ThePenguin]

Yes the prices are basicly the same, the Korona is 200$ more.

[Frank Petronio]

OK I think the more polite people here were reluctant to discourage someone else's sale of an unseen camera. However since you press the issue....

The Korona could be a decent camera but they will get loose and woobly if the wood dries out with age, etc. versus the metal C1, which would require very heavy wear or damage to become loose.

$5000 Ebony cameras do the same thing after 100 years....

The better-built wooden Centurys, Folmers, Deardorffs do better because of their joinery and build quality but anything that old is going to change tolerances and probably require some regluing, shimming, and adjustments. It also depends how you use it... if you tilt it down, the stresses are greater, etc.

Most people worry about weight when the truth is that whether the camera weighs 50% more doesn't matter, it is still a bulky pain in the ass to move around no matter what! Add the lens, holders, etc and it weighs even more. So saving some weight may be worth it but 8x10 is not for the light of heart or ambition. Or wallet.

[ImSoNegative]

i would still go for the c1 because of it being so solid, wind will have a hard time blowing that beast over, chris burkett uses his out in the field all the time.

[ImSoNegative]

OK I think the more polite people here were reluctant to discourage someone else's sale of an unseen camera. However since you press the issue....

The Korona could be a decent camera but they will get loose and woobly if the wood dries out with age, etc. versus the metal C1, which would require very heavy wear or damage to become loose.

$5000 Ebony cameras do the same thing after 100 years....

The better-built wooden Centurys, Folmers, Deardorffs do better because of their joinery and build quality but anything that old is going to change tolerances and probably require some regluing, shimming, and adjustments. It also depends how you use it... if you tilt it down, the stresses are greater, etc.

Most people worry about weight when the truth is that whether the camera weighs 50% more doesn't matter, it is still a bulky pain in the ass to move around no matter what! Add the lens, holders, etc and it weighs even more. So saving some weight may be worth it but 8x10 is not for the light of heart or ambition. Or wallet.

well said frank

[Scott Davis]

Between the two, if your primary use is in the studio, don't even hesitate on pulling the trigger on the C1. I had one, it was genius in the studio. Pain in the ass to take in the field. It really enforced the Weston rule of no photo worth taking more than 50 yards from the car. Double-ditto on the tripod head comments - get the biggest, beefiest head you can get, something like a Majestic with the 6x7 inch platform. The Korona is pretty, and fun, and light-weight for carrying around in the field, but they're also wobbly, with very limited movements, and imprecise when you don't want them to be.

[cyrus]

I would say C-1 but don't buy a camera if your heart is not with it. If you LIKE the Korona, go with it. After all if you don't like what you're working with, what's the point?

[Peter Gomena]

Koronas are beautiful to look at but not as solid and practical as the C-1. Korona hardware is lightweight and a bit flimsy. The old focusing mechanism is an expanded brass rod that eventually wears out from rolling on the metal track. Movements are hard to lock down solidly and are wobbly even when locked down. For studio use, I'd take the C-1.

Peter Gomena

[ashlee52]

Simple decision... go for the Deardorff

[WayneStevenson]

The calumet C1 folds up nicely and will fit in a backback should you want. Little sheets of foam padding will make you more comfortable about the rail hitting your ground glass.

[WayneStevenson]

Don't forget you're going to need a solid tripod for the beast though. ;)

[Curt]

C1=stroller

[Thebes]

I've carried around my C-1 in an old Lowe Pro photo pack. Mine is magnesium and rather beaten up. I also have a 7x11 Eastman. The C-1 is so much more stable that there is no sane comparison. It weighs about the same and requires much less case to haul about. Even though an 8x10 would be a bit smaller and lighter I think that a C-1 is better in both the studio and in the field (if, big if, you get a magnesium one. Not all green ones are magnesium).

Pay attention to your tripod head with a C-1, the mounting block offers very little support unless you have a platform head or modify it. Also consider using wooden boards for any lens that will leave the studio, the stock metal ones are heavier than many lenses.

[Ken Lee]

"...if I would have said that I'm looking for a fieldcamera, would the answer be the same?"

http://www.kenleegallery.com/images/forum/StrandShooting.jpg

Paul Strand survived with a Korona 8x10 for many decades. Above you see him in the Outer Hebrides Islands, off the coast of Scotland. Below is one of the photos he made there.

http://www.kenleegallery.com/images/forum/StrandHorses.jpg

[Lynn Jones]

I was the co-creator of the C-1, it is a far better camera. Replace the bellows, the camera is a 35" camera and bellows, you might try "Western Bellows".

The 508 (20") Caltar is a 3 element lens which covers 35 degrees with excellent sharpness, especially a studio distances, however it actually illuminates 45 degrees but the edges are less sharp. The 12" (305) f6.3 Caltar is a tessar type (56 degrees) and as good as it gets.

The Caltar S, f5.6 is a Rodenstock Sironar of known very high quality wide field design.

Lynn

[Pawlowski6132]

So, what'd you get?

[Michael Roberts]

Allright, the c1 seems to be popular! But if I would have said that I'm looking for a fieldcamera, would the answer be the same?

By the way, the front standard is the same 6x6" lensboards?

In my heart I really want the Korona because its a beautiful camera, but my brain tells me to get the C1 and all of you guys aswell.

Obviously, you need both--the C1 for the studio and the Korona for the field.

Seriously, why not? If it's a matter of $$, try both and then resell the one you like the least.