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View Full Version : New to Film -- Need Help Processing a 4x5 B&W



jakezori
23-Sep-2011, 21:40
Though I have used some film in the past, I have never developed it myself. Just recently I got my hands on a 4x5 Sinar F with a Rodenstock Sironar-N5.6 210mm lens. After taking the two most enjoyable pictures I have every taken, I found out that there are no labs near me (within 50 miles +) that will process 4x5 film. So, I could either send away all my film, or I could develop it myself. Developing it seems to be the better choice, though I will only be shooting about 5 shots a month with the 4x5 (after i learn the basics). Let me know what you think. Either way, I am confused about the overall cost, the process, and the space required.

If someone could break it down for me in terms of steps and cost that would be fantastic. I have searched forums, youtube, random sites, and all I seem to find is confusion and debates on tray vs drum and developers etc. What is the cheapest/easiest set up I can get and should I just send my film in?

I hope that made sense. I am about to fall asleep.

Thanks!

P.S. How does roll film 4x5 work? Is it like a shake and bake process? You shoot and your good to go? *confused*

RawheaD
23-Sep-2011, 21:51
You can go really ghetto by using the "taco method" (searchable phrase) using a regular Patterson tank, and make it really cheap by using Rodinal for developer. You could do stand develop, which allows you to dilute Rodinal by factors of 100-200. If it's just 5 shots a month, something like that might be the way to go. You could step it up a notch and buy a 4x5 Jobo tank for less than $100 (last I checked), which will let you develop 6 sheets at a time.

Light Guru
23-Sep-2011, 22:06
I use the mod photographic film holder.
http://www.mod54.com/

Works great.

Louie Powell
24-Sep-2011, 05:17
Jake -

Most LF photographers today do their own processing. Film processing must be done in total darkness, so you are facing the need to either find/build a darkroom, or else use a changing bag and daylight processing equipment. Once you get past that major choice, you face an array of decisions about how to process the film, what kind of chemistry to use, how to dry the film, and how to make prints. And everyone has their favorite method, so you will get all kinds of seemingly-conflicting opinions.

I have a darkroom, and process my film in total darkness in a slosher in open trays. That works for me.

Greg Lockrey
24-Sep-2011, 06:42
Get the book "The Negative" by Ansel Adams and everything you will need to know about B&W film and film processing is there. I too use 5x7" trays for my 4x5 film and I am able to process 6 sheets at a time by constantly pulling the bottom sheet to the top till the development time is finished. Two sheets would be a breeze. :)

jakezori
24-Sep-2011, 08:15
Awesome. I appreciate the quick replies. Can anyone give me a list of chemicals and where to get them and how to use them, or a link explaining the chemicals and steps (video or writing)?

Greg Lockrey
24-Sep-2011, 08:31
It will depend on the film you are shooting. The labels on the chemistry packages will give you dilutions, temperature and time. Black and white film is typically developed at 68F (average room temperature). Most films can be developed with Kodak Hc110 or D-76 but there are other brands just as good, you will also have to have fixer and using a stop bath would help too. To save water a hypo (fixer) clearing agent helps clean off the fixer. Get the book "The Negative"it's all in there. If you don't have a photoshop in your area then on-line stores like B&H or Adorama and others can sell them to you.

jakezori
24-Sep-2011, 08:41
hmmm... well im shooting with Ilford HP5 Plus 400.

Could i just get:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/26996-REG/Kodak_1464817_D_76_Developer.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/169348-REG/Ilford_1893870_Ilfostop_Stop_Bath_500ml.html

and

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/253199-REG/Ilford_1984262_Rapid_Fixer_Liquid_1_Liter.html

?

Also,I don't plan on dropping $600 on a scanner and the only local scanner is an Epson 3200. Would that scanner be good enough to give me good scans?

Greg Lockrey
24-Sep-2011, 08:54
Your film is Ilford for now I'd stay with Ilford developers. The stop and fix are essentially the same with different brands. Check out the spec sheet for Ilfotec, Microphen, Ilfosol, ID-11 for the results you think you want. The Epson 3200 will get you started. I'm strictly a Kodak guy and never had any experience with Ilford. Maybe an Ilford user can chime in for the best developer for you.

Jim Jones
24-Sep-2011, 13:30
My Epson 2450 scanned 4x5 negatives for up to 16x20 prints for many years, and probably could do as well today. Satisfaction depends on expectations.

Small tray development is economical and efficient for only a few negatives a month.

The choice of film and chemistry brands is less important than getting to know whatever you use.

jakezori
24-Sep-2011, 18:11
So the scanner is a go unless I really want a nice file made.

Thoughts on http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1065-REG/Acufine_DFD32_Diafine_Developer.html

I've heard different things but..

Also, thinking about buying this stuff for $100 off craiglist:

"Ilford developer, stop bath, about a quart of concentrate each. Some fixer and some photo flo. 8x10 and 11x17 trays. Omega B8 enlarger timer"

thoughts?

lastly:

whats wrong with using instant film? is it less detailed? less "enlargable"? And where can I find polaroid 4x5 instant?

Greg Lockrey
24-Sep-2011, 18:35
[QUOTE=jakezori;781547]So the scanner is a go unless I really want a nice file made.

Thoughts on http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1065-REG/Acufine_DFD32_Diafine_Developer.html

I've heard different things but..

Never used it...looks expensive. You just need to try different developers until you find one that you like.

Also, thinking about buying this stuff for $100 off craiglist:

"Ilford developer, stop bath, about a quart of concentrate each. Some fixer and some photo flo. 8x10 and 11x17 trays. Omega B8 enlarger timer"

thoughts?

I'd get 5x7 ribbed trays for film and a metronome for a timer.... it's easier to count beats in total darkness rather than look at a dim timer.

lastly:

whats wrong with using instant film? is it less detailed? less "enlargable"? And where can I find polaroid 4x5 instant?
Wish it was still made... but even so it cost about $3.00 each when it still was available

Jim Jones
25-Sep-2011, 06:05
. . . I'd get 5x7 ribbed trays for film and a metronome for a timer.... it's easier to count beats in total darkness rather than look at a dim timer. . . .

A quartz clock ticks once per second, and can be inexpensive. Long ago I also used wind-up mechanical clocks, but they sometimes tick at something other than an even fraction of a second.

ki6mf
25-Sep-2011, 06:53
Step by Step instructions on how to develop, determine a film speed test development time can be found at Jerry Orabona's site. Look for film speed test.

Most important thing you can do is select one film and developer and complete your testing completely. Do not change anything mid stream or the tests will return garbage. After you figure things out if you change film/developers repeat the tests and do not change anything midstream or the tests will return garbage again.

http://www.jerryo.com/teaching.htm

Mike Anderson
25-Sep-2011, 07:33
...What is the cheapest/easiest set up I can get and should I just send my film in?...

For B&W film, all you need is an HP Combi-plan tank (will hold 6 sheets of 4x5), a large changing bag, 3 chemicals (developer, stop bath and fixer) and a sink. And some measuring cups and a thermometer.

...Mike

ki6mf
25-Sep-2011, 07:40
Agree with Mike Anderson I have 4 HP Combi and the work fine. Your alternatives are and development in the dark or use a Patterson and do a few sheets at a time with the film bent into a taco shape and held in place with clips. i prefer the combi system as film stays straight in the internal film holder. There has been much discussion on the Combi and I have found the few errors that occurred were entirely my fault.

Steve M Hostetter
25-Sep-2011, 12:41
Get a Jobo expert drum (load in dark see Youtube)holds 10 sht max REPLACE lid (snug) then turn on lights
Get 2- one gal. chemical jugs & 2-stir sticks, buy a bag of D76 that mixes 1:1 with a gal. of water.
Get a bag of fixer enough to mix one gallon of water to one bag of fixer just like you did w/ the D-76 (make sure you label them on jugs!)
Get a roller base,
Get 3-500 ml bottles
Get a timer from the grocery store
Get 3- 8x10" trays you'll need one for final rinse and the others you'll need when you print.
place to hang negatives to dry get roach clips(10) and roll of wire and 2 screws run wire from wall to wall
Fill a 250ml bottle with 71 degree water then pour into loaded expert drum. Let it roll for 5-min. NOTE: all chemicals need to be 71 degrees (room temp)
Pour out water in a 5 gal bucket or sink and then pour in 300 ml of D-76 developer and let roll for 7- min.
Pour out developer and pour in 250ml water let roll for 1-min. then pour out and fill again with 250ml water and let roll for 1-min.
Pour out water then pour in 300ml of fixer let roll for 5-min. then pour out and use 250ml of water for 1-min.x4 2-min.x1 3-min.x1 4-min.x1 and 5-min.x2 to wash. Then let tap water run into the loaded film drum for 1/2 hour to complete wash.
get a roll of paper towels
for final rinse get that photoflo and put a few drips in a 8x10" processing tray of water remove film from drum 1 sheet at a time and soak for 20 sec. then run your finger down the surface (emulsion side gently to remove gunk)while still in the water. then hang to dry

this is for black and white film processing... For chromes you'll just be using more chemicals = 7 and you'll also need a way to heat water to the right temp I use a skillet filled with water

this is how i do it
regards
steve